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FAMILT  HTCHEN  GAKDENER; 


CONTAINING 

PLAIN  AND  ACCURATE  DESCRIPTIONS 

OF    ALL     THE 

DIFFERENT    SPECIES    AND    VARIETIES 

OF 

WITH 

THEIB  BOTANICAL,  ENGLISH,  FllENUH,  AND  GEHMAN  NAMES,  ALPHABETICALLY 

ARRANGED,  AND  THE  BEST  JMODE  OF  CULTIVATING  THEM,  IN  THE  GARDEN 

OR  UNDER  GLASS  ;     WITH    A    DESCRIPTION  OF  IMPLEMENTS  AND 

MEDICINAL    HERBS     IN     GENERAL     USE. 

ALSO, 

DESCRIPTIONS     AND    CHARACTERS    OF    THE  MOSl*  SELECT 
FRUITS,  THEIR  MANAGEMENT,  PROPAGATION,  ETC. 

ILLUSTRATED    WITH    TWENTY-FIVE    ENGRAVINGS. 

BY     ROBERT     BUIST, 

AUTHOR  OF  THE  AMERICAN  FLOWKR-GARDEN  DIRECTORY,  ROSE  MANUAL,  ETC. 


NEW- YORK: 
PUBLISHED    BY    C.    M.    SAXTON 

J  .       C  .       R  I  K  E  R  , 

18.^0. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1847, 
BY    R.  BUIST, 
In  the  office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Eastern  District  of 
Pennsylvania. 


STEREOTYPKD   BY   C.  DAVISON  ft  CO. 
No.  33  Gold  street,  New-York. 


CONTENTS. 


Almond 

Angelica 
Anise-seed 
Apple 
Apricot 


Page. 
156 
136 
137 
157 
165 


Application  of  remarks    • 

to  various  parts  of 

the  United  States  147 

Artichoke     -  -  19, 63 

Asparagus    -  -  20 

Ealm  -  -  137 

Basil  -  -  24 

Beans  -  -  25 

Beet  -  28,  124 

Blessed  Thistle  -  138 

Borage          -  -  138 

Borecole       -  -  30 

Broccoli       -  -  31 

Brussels  Sprouts  -  32 

Budding       -  -  152 

Burnet  -  -  33 

Cabbage       -  -  34 

Caraway       -  -  139 

Cardoon       -  -  40 

Carrot  -  -  41 

Cauliflower  -  43 

Celeriac        -  -  48 

Celery  -  -  45 

Chamomile  -  -  139 

Cherry  -  -  168 

Chervil         -  -  48 

Chive  -  -  48 

Clary  -  -  140 

Coriander    -  -  140 

Corn  Salad  -  -  49 
Cow  Cabbage  —  Preface 

Cress  -  -  50 

Cucumber    -  -  50 

Currant        -  -  171 

Dill  -  -  140 

Egg  Plant    -  -  55 

Elecampane  -  141 

Endive  -  -  h% 


Fennel 
Fetticus 
Pig       . 
Filbert 

Foreign  Grape, 
Fruits 


Page. 

58 

49 

173 

175 

184 
148 


Garden         -  -  7,  17 
Garden  Seeds,  list  of    18 

Garlic           -  -  59 

Gooseberry  -  -  176 

Grafting        -  150,  151 

Grape           -  -  178 

Grapery        -  -  186 

Grape  Vine  -  -  178 

Horehound  -  -  141 

Horseradish  -  59 

Hyssop         -  -  142 

Implements-  -  10 

Indian  Com  -  61 

Indian  Cress  -  62 

Jerusalem  Artichoke  63 

Lambs'  Lettuce   -  49 

Lavender      -  -  142 

Leek             -  -  64 

Lettuce        -  -  65 

Manures       -  -  9 

Marjoram     -  -  69 

Melon  -  -  70, 73 

Mint             -  -  74 

Morel            -  -  75 

Mushroom  -  -  76 

Mustard       -  -  81 

Nasturtium  -  -  62 

Nectarine     -  -  193 
New  Zealand  Spinach  82 

Nuts             -  -  175 

Ochro            -  -  88 

Okra  .            -  -  88 

Onion            -  -  83 

Oyster  Plant  -  114 

Parsley         -  -  89 

Parsnep        -  -  90 

Pea               -  -  92 


Pepper 

Peach 

Pear 

Pennyroyal  - 

Peppermmt 

Plum 


97 
195 
197 
143 
143 
205 


Portugal   Cabbage — 

Prefaca 

Potato           -         -  '    98 

Pumpkin      -        -  105 

Quince         -        -  209 

Radish         -        -  105 

Raspberry    -        -  210 

Rosemary    -        -  144 

Rotation  of  Crops  9 

Rhubarb       -        -  109 

Rue               -        -  144 

Rutabaga     -        -  130 

Sage             -        -  145 

Salsafy         -        -  114 

Scorzonera  -        -  115 

Scur^'y  Grass       -  145 

Sea-Kale      -        -  116 

Shallot          -        -  119 

Skirret         -        -  120 

Sorrel           -        -  146 

Spinach       -        -  121 

Squash         -         -  123 

Silver  Beet  -        -  124 

Strawberry           -  212 

Swede  Turnip      -  130 

Swiss  Chard        -  124 

Tansy           -        -  146 

Tarragon      -        -  124 

Thyme         -        -  12S 

Tomato        -        -  125 

Truffle          -        -  128 

Turnip          -        -  129 
Turnip-rooted  Celery  48 

Vegetable  Garden,  7,  17 

Vegetable  Marrow  133 

Water  Cress         -  134 

WinterX^ress        -  135 

Wormv/ood  -        -  147 


TABIiE  DES  MATIERES. 


Abricotier 

Absinthe 

Ail 

Amandier 

Angelique 

Artichaut 

Asperge 

Basalic 

Beterave 


165 
147 

59 
156 
136 
19 
20 
24 
28 


Boucage 

Bourrache 

Broccoli 

Brugnon 

Camomille 

Capucine 

Cardon 

Garotte 

Oarvi 


137 

138 

31 

193 

139 

62 

40 

41 

139 


Celeri 

Centauree    - 

Cerfeuil 

Cerisier 

Chicorie 

Champignon 

Chou  de  Bruxells 

Chouvert 

Choufleur 


45 

138 

48 

168 

56 

-  75,  76 

32 

30 

43 


4 

CONTENTS. 

Psge. 

Page. 

^1 

Chou  Marin 

116 

Groseille  a  maque- 

Patiron 

Chou  Pomme 

34 

reau           -        - 

176 

Pecher 

195 

Chervis 

120 

Haricot 

56 

Petite  Pemprenelle 

33 

Civette 

48 

Hysope 

142 

Persil 

69 

Coignassier 

209 

Inule 

141 

Poire  de  Terre 

63 

Concombre  - 

50 

L'Anith 

140 

Pois 

92 

Coriandre     - 

140 

L'Astragon 

124 

Poirier 

197 

Courge 

105 

Laitue 

65 

Pomme 

157 

Courge  ou  Potiron 

123 

Lavauder     - 

142 

Pomrne  de  Terre  - 

98 

Couve  Tronchuda  Prcf. 

Mais 

61 

Porreau 

64 

Cranson       -         59 

,145 

Mache 

49 

Pouliot 

143 

Cresson 

50 

Marjolaine   - 

69 

Prune 

205 

Cresson  de  Amerique  135 

Mellise 

137 

Rave 

105 

"      "  Fontaine 

135 

Melon 

70 

Romarin 

144 

"      "  Terre 

135 

Melon  d'Eau 

73 

Rubarbe 

109 

Epenard 

121 

Melongene   - 

55 

Rue 

144 

Epinard  d'ete 

82 

Mentha         -         74 

,  143 

Salsifis 

114 

Eschalote    - 

119 

Moutarde     - 

81 

Sauge 

145 

Figuier 

173 

Navet 

129 

Scorzonere  - 

115 

FramboisieT 

210 

Noisette 

175 

Tanaise 

146 

Fraisier 

212 

Oignon 

83 

rhym 

125 

Gombo 

88 

Orvale 

140 

Tomate 

125 

Groseille  a  grappes 

Oseille 

146 

TrufFe 

128 

d'ourtre     - 

171 

Panais 

90 

Vigne 

•178 

INHALTo 

Ackersalat    - 

49 

Italianische  Kohl 

31 

Q,uittenbaum 

209 

Amerikanisher  Kresse 

Johannisbure 

171 

Rante 

144 

U                 U                 (( 

135 

Kamille 

139 

Rettig 

105 

Anis             -        - 

137 

Kapuzinerblume  - 

62 

Rheinfarn     - 

146 

Aprikosenbaum    - 

165 

Kardonen     - 

40 

Rosmarin 

144 

Apfel 

157 

Kartoffel 

98 

Rothe  Riibe 

38 

Artischoke   - 

19 

Kirschenbaum      - 

168 

Rubarber      - 

109 

Basilikum    - 

24 

Knoblauch   - 

59 

Salbey 

145 

Bensenlauch 

48 

Koriander     - 

140 

Sauerampfer 

148 

Birnbaum     - 

197 

Kresse 

50 

Scharlachkraut     - 

140 

Blumenkohl 

43 

Kummel 

139 

Schminkbohne     - 

25 

Borragen 

138 

Kiirbis 

105 

Schullote 

119 

Brlinnenkresse     - 

134 

Lauch 

64 

Sellerie 

45 

Cardo  benedicten 

138 

Liebes  Apfel 

125 

Serf 

81 

Dill 

140 

LofFelkraut  - 

145 

Stachelbeerstrauch 

176 

Dill  kraut    - 

58 

Mandelbaum 

156 

Spargel 

20 

Dragun 

124 

Marjoran 

69 

Spina  t 

121 

Endivie 

56 

Meerkohl      -        - 

116 

Spiklavandel 

142 

Engelwiirtz  - 

136 

Mellise          -        - 

137 

Sprossen  Kohl     - 

32 

Erdbeerpflanze     - 

212 

Melone 

70 

Steckriibe    - 

129 

Erde  Apfel   - 

63 

Merrettig      - 

59 

Swiss  Chard 

124 

Erbse 

92 

Mohre 

41 

Thimian 

125 

Essbare 

75 

Munze          -         74 

,  143 

Tollapfel       - 

55 

Feigenbaum 

173 

Nectarpfirsche      - 

193 

Trliffel          -        - 

128 

Gartenkerbel 

48 

Nussbaum 

175 

Wasser  Melon 

73 

Gartensalat  - 

65 

Pastinake     - 

90 

Weiss  Kopfkohl  - 

34 

Griine  Kohl 

30 

Pempemelle 

33 

Weintrauben 

178 

Gurke 

50 

Petersilie 

89 

Wermuth      - 

147 

Himbeerestrauch 

210 

Pfirschbaum 

195 

Winter  Kresse 

135 

Inule 

141 

Pflaumenbaum     - 

205 

Zuckerwurzel 

120 

Isop 

142 

Poley 

143 

Zwiebel 

83 

PREFACE. 


Gardening  is  one  of  those  occupations  that  combines  pleasure  with 
healtliful  employment.  Reason  and  history  unite  in  regarding  it  as  the 
first  pursuit  that  engaged  the  attention  of  man. 

The  fruits  of  the  Garden  are  appreciated  by  all,  and  contribute  much 
to  the  pleasures  and  comforts  of  life.  But  many  possess  gardens  un- 
worthy of  the  name :  for  want  of  a  knowledge  of  their  management  they 
are  unable,  in  season,  to  supply  the  wants  of  their  own  table.  To  re- 
medy this  deficiency  is  the  object  of  this  compendium.  Into  it  nothing 
has  been  admitted  that  is  not  of  the  most  practical  character.  It  may 
be  received  as  the  result  of  thirty  years'  experience  and  observa- 
tion ON    THE    cultivation  OF    VEGETABLES  AND  FRUITS.      To    haVC    giveil 

the  reason  for  many  of  the  operations  recommended,  or  the  process  by 
which  certain  conclusions  have  been  arrived  at,  would  have  enlarged 
the  volume  without  adding  to  the  value  of  the  advice.  It  has  been  the 
object  of  the  author  to  describe  the  preparation  of  the  soil,  the  mode  of 
culture,  and  the  best  varieties  of  every  fruit  or  vegetable  for  market  or 
family  supply,  in  the  plainest  language,  and  most  concise  terms.  The 
subjects  are  arranged  in  alphabetical  order,  so  that  any  one,  in  an  in- 
stant, for  any  part  of  the  United  States,  may  see  how  to  cultivate,  when 
and  what  to  soio,  and  when  to  reap.  Hitherto  the  works  on  this  subject 
bave  been  merely  repetitions  of  European  writers,  not  at  all  adapt- 
ed to  our  climate ;  or  when  compiled  with  some  degree  of  considera- 
tion as  to  that,  yet  simply  the  names  of  vegetables  have  been  given, 
allowing  the  gardener  or  amateur,  unguided,  to  select  whatever  might 
,^trike  his  fancy,  without  enabling  him  to  supply  his  wants.  In  this 
Manual  will  be  found  a  short  but  faithful  description  of  the  best  vegeta- 
bles and  fruits ;  their  period  of  maturity  or  their  relative  earliness  or 
lateness,  with  their  Botanical,  English,  French,  and  German  names — a 
facility  not  met  with  in  any  similar  work  we  have  ever  seen. 

We  have  omitted  a  few  vegetables  of  a  coarse  description,  principally 
raised  for  cattle,  by  field  culture.  Among  which  are  the  Portugal,  and 
Cow  Cabbage.  The  former  appeared  lately  as  a  new  vegetable,  under 
the  name  of  Couve  Tronchuda,  though  cultivated  twenty  years  ago  under 


VI  PREFACE. 

the  former  name.  The  latter,  also  an  old  vegetable,  created  some  ex- 
citement a  few  years  ago  ;  but  the  mania  having  died  away,  it  finds  its 
merited  place. 

The  Fruits  have  been  arranged  in  the  order  cf  their  attaining  matu- 
rity, and  only  the  best  in  their  season  have  been  selected.  It  is  pre- 
smned  that  the  list  will  be  found  a  certain  guide  to  those  who  wish  to 
grow  only  the  best  and  most  prolific  sorts.  Some  selection  of  this  kind 
has  for  some  time  been  imperatively  called  for,  by  the  wants  of  the 
gardener,  farmer,  and  amateur,  the  multiplicity  of  sorts  in  the  larger 
works  and  catalogues  rendering  them  nearly  useless  to  those  who  merely 
wish  to  know  those  kinds  adapted  for  family  or  market  supply.  In  il- 
lustrating our  subject  we  have  endeavored  to  avoid  the  use  of  all  tech- 
nical words,  and  to  make  every  thing  so  plain  that  it  can  be  compre- 
hended by  the  most  illiterate. 

In  conclusion,  if  this  little  manual  be  the  means  of  difiusing  a  know- 
ledge of  vegetable  culture  more  generally, — of  adding  to  the  pleasures  of 
rural  life, — of  increasing  the  interest  taken  in  horticultural  pursuits  • 
or  guiding  the  gentleman,  farmer,  or  student,  in  the  occupation  of  his 
leisure  hours,  it  will  have  attained  the  objec  of 

The  Author. 

Philadelphia,  Feb.,  1847. 


BUIST'S 
FAMILY   KITCHEN   GARDENER 


THE  FORMATION  OF  A  VEGETABLE  OR  KITCHEN 
GARDEN,  &c. 

Before  proceeding  witli  the  subject  of  vegetable  culture, 
the  attention  of  the  reader  is  requested  to  some  remarks  on 
the  formation  of  a  Kitchen  G-arden.  This  subject  is  forced 
upon  us  by  a  knowledge  of  how  much  labor  and  money  are 
expended  in  producing  one  misplaced,  badly  designed,  and 
unproductive — a  most  unpleasant  attendant  upon  a  country 
life ;  when,  by  the  same  labor  and  expense,  one  could  have 
been  obtained  that  would  have  yielded  liberally  every  pleasure, 
every  comfort,  and  even  every  luxury  for  a  bountiful  table. 

The  situation  most  suitable  is  a  very  gentle  inclination  to- 
ward the  east  or  south-east,  that  it  may  have  all  the  advan- 
tages of  the  morning  sun.  The  next  preferable,  exposure  is 
south  or  south-west ;  if  sheltered  from  the  north  or  north-west, 
60  much  the  better.  However,  avoid  the  neighborhood  of 
large  and  spreading  trees,  as  their  roots  will  exhaust  the  soil, 
and  their  shade  injure  the  crops. 

In  selecting  the  ground^  it  is  of  vast  importance  to  have  the 
soil  of  a  healthy  quality,  being  mellow,  dry,  and  capable  of 
being  worked  with  the  spade.  The  best  soils  are  of  a  friable 
and  loamy  texture ;  the  worst,  those  of  a  very  light  sandy  or 
of  a  stiff  clayey  description. 

If  the  bottom  or  subsoil  be  retentive,  trench  the  ground  at 


8  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

least  eigliteen  inches  deep  :  good  vegetables  can  never  be  pro- 
duced on  sour  soil,  nor  on  thin  soil  of  only  a  few  inches  depth. 
Care  and  attention  are  necessary  in  trenching^  as  on  the  pro- 
per disposition  at  first  the  after  good  will  follow.  I  most  de- 
cidedly condemn  the  mode  of  trenching  ground  generally 
recommended  ;  that  is,  to  bury  the  top  spit,  and  turn  up  the 
cold,  sour  subsoil.  Experience  has  taught  me  another  lesson : 
Open  the  first  trench  two  feet  wide,  by  putting  aside  the  top 
spit  spade  deep ;  then  turn  up  the  bottom,  where  it  lies,  at 
least  the  full  depth  of  the  spade,  in  the  same  manner  as  in 
digging ;  throw  the  top  of  the  next  trench  on  the  top  of  the 
first  subsoil,  and  so  on,  till  the  whole  is  finished.  The  gene- 
ral method  of  trenching  is  to  turn  the  top  soil  down  and  the 
subsoil  up.  This  is  attended  with  evil  consequences,  as  many 
years  will  elapse  before  the  bad  soil,  which  has  been  turned 
up,  can  be  made  equal  to  the  good  soil,  which  has  been  turned 
down. 

Another  point  we  call  attention  to — the  inclination  of  the 
soil.  Some  authors  in  this  country  merely  publish  the  ideas 
of  those  of  Europe,  without  regard  to  their  applicability  to 
this  climate,  and  have  recommended  an  inclination  of  one  foot 
in  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet.  Such  a  declivity  would,  during 
our  heavy  rains,  sweep  soil,  manure,  seeds,  &c.,  to  the  lowest 
ground.  An  inclination  of  one  foot  in  forty,  or  merely  sufii- 
cient  to  carry  off  the  water,  is  all  that  is  requisite.  However, 
the  means  have  frequently  to  be  adapted  to  the  ends.  If  the 
situation  be  necessarily  on  the  side  of  a  rising  ground,  throw 
it  at  once  into  terraces  of  any  required  breadth.  Let  the 
steeps  be  covered  with  turf,  to  prevent  the  washing  away  of  the 
soil,  and  arrange  the  planes  into  sub-divisions  for  culture. 

The  shape  or  figure  of  a  Garden  is  a  point  of  little  conse- 
quence, though  the  square,  or  any  form  approaching  it,  is  the 
best  and  most  convenient.  The  boundary  lines  may  be  of  any 
form,  but  the  interior  sub-divisions  work  to  the  bes.t  advantage 
in  even  lines.     AVitli  regard  to  size,  that,  of  course,  must  de- 


FORMATION    OF    A    VEGETABLE    OR    KITCHEN    GARDEN.  9 

pend  upon  the  number  of  the  family,  and  may  vary  from  a 
quarter  to  a  whole  acre.  The  walks  may  be  from  three  to  six 
feet  wide,  straight  or  serpentine — the  former  preferred,  how- 
ever. "Where  fancy  may  dictate,  the  latter  can  be  adopted, 
cropping  the  curves  of  the  ground  with  flowers,  fancy  plants, 
or  choice  fruits. 

Rotation  of  Crops. — I  admit  that  the  same  vegetable  can 
be  grown  upon  the  same  spot  with  success,  year  after  year,  but 
I  also  assert  that  a  rotation  of  crops  will  be  more  produc- 
tive, which  is  of  great  importance  in  culinary  gardening ;  there- 
fore never  grow  exhausting  crops  in  succession.  Substitute 
those  alternately  of  as  different  roots  and  constitution  as  pos- 
sible. Keep  these  objects  in  view,  and  even  with  ordinary 
management  we  vouch  for  a  crop.  Assiduity  in  the  destruc- 
tion of  weeds,  neatness  and  cleanliness,  a  constant  stirring  of 
the  soil,  digging  deep  and  manuring  freely,  must  be  the  con- 
stant companions  of  the  gardener ;  making  the  business  a 
source  of  pleasure,  profit  and  advantage  to  himself,  and  an  ob- 
ject of  admiration  to  others. 

Of  Manures. — We  may  here  premise  that  no  garden  will 
be  worth  its  culture,  unless  well  supplied  with  manure  every 
year.  The  present  day  is  a  period  of  considerable  agitation  on 
this  all-important  subject.  We  have  tried  several  of  the  new 
manures,  some  of  them  to  our  loss  and  (when  we  have  departed 
from  the  stable  yard)  few  to  our  advantage.  In  Europe  great 
attention  has  been  given  to  this  subject,  and  many  specifics 
recommended,  which,  when  tried,  have  had  frequently  uncer- 
tain results,  though  in  particular  cases  they  have  been  crowned 
with  success.  In  this  country,  however,  our  resources  of  do- 
mestic materials  are  abundant,  and  on  every  farm  and  garden 
much  goes  to  waste.  All  weeds  and  useless  vegetables,  sweep- 
ings of  walks,  &c.,  should  be  dug  into  the  ground  at  once. 
The  dung  of  domestic  birds,  compounded  with  fresh  soil,  is  a 
great  renovator  ;  but,  if  applied  by  itself,  use  it  sparingly. 
Guano  can  only  be  safely  applied  in  solution,  one  pound  to  five 
1* 


10  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

gallons  of  water — the  liquid  to  be  used  when  the  vegetables 
are  in  a  growing  state.  Gypsvm  is  beneficial,  but  not  of  any 
duration.  Poudrette  is  a  very  active  manure,  highly  exciting 
to  early  crops.  The  safest  and  best  of  all  manures  are  the 
combined  deposits  of  the  horse,  the  cow,  and  the  pig  ;  these, 
thrown  into  a  heap  to  ferment,  saturating  it  with  all  the  soap- 
suds and  urine  that  can  be  collected,  will  form  the  best,  the 
safest,  and  most  permanent  manure,  not  equalled  by  any  or  all 
of  the  nostrums  of  the  age.  It  may  be  applied  at  the  rate  of 
from  twenty  to  thirty  tons  per  acre.  This  quantity  is  not  too 
much,  when  a  garden  is  regularly  cultivated.  It  requires  no 
adept  in  vegetable  culture  to  take  at  least  two  crops  a  year 
from  the  ground.  Lime  is  not  genial  to  the  growth  of  vegeta- 
bles ;  its  principal  function  as  a  manure  appears  to  be,  to  dis- 
solve the  organic  matter  in  the  soil  and  facilitate  its  decay. 
Soils  of  a  sour,  heavy  nature,  full  of  thready,  undecomposed 
vegetable  fibre,  are  greatly  benefited  by  a  dressing  of  air-slacked 
lime ;  but  on  rich  soils,  well  cultivated,  its  effects  are  unfavor- 
able to  the  growth  of  culinary  vegetables. 


ON  IMPLEMENTS. 

It  is  not  our  intention  to  go  into  a  detail  of  all  the  useful 
articles  connected  with  the  culture  of  the  garden,  which  would 
take  us  beyond  our  limits.  Our  object  will  be  only  to  point 
out  those  most  useful  and  essential  to  carry  on  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  soil.  The  materials  of  which  they  are  composed  are 
chiefly  of  iron  and  wood ;  the  best  quality  of  both  should  be 
used,  nothing  purchased  merely  for  its  being  cheap.  The 
cheapest  is  the  best  and  most  durable  to  accomplish  the  end. 

The  spade  is  a  very  common  tool,  and  should  be  of  steel, 
with  a  hickory  or  ash  handle,  having  two  rivets  through  its 
head.  No.  2,  of  the  manufactory,  is  the  most  convenient  size. 
Some  American  spades  are  equal  to  any  of  British  manufacture. 


ON    IMPLEMEiNTS. 


11 


Fig.  1. 


Fig.  2. 


The  Rake  (Fig.  1)  siiould  be  of 
tlie  best  wrought  ii-on,  with  teeth 
about  2-^  inches  long  and  l-^-  apart. 
The  head  is  of  any  size,  from  six  to 
twenty  inches.  There  are  also  rakes 
of  malleable  iron,  and  wooden  rakes 
with  steel  teeth  :  the  latter  sort  are 
very  convenient  for  rough  ground. 
The  handle  should  be  round,  made 
of  pine,  or  any  other  light  wood,  and 
from  six  to  eight  feet  long. 

Beet  Rake  (Fig.  2). — This  very  use- 
ful implement  is  composed  of  hard 
wood,  with  steel  teeth,  obtusely  pointed, 
about  two  inches  wide,  five  inches  long, 
and  from  nine  to  twelve  inches  apart. 
It  is  exceedingly  useful  for  drawing  drills  in  which  to  sow 
Beets,  Carrots,  Onions,  and  all  small  seeds  or  roots.  In  using 
it,  strain  the  line,  and  draw  with  some  strength ;  when  three 
drills  will  be  made  at  once,  saving  the  labor  of  moving  the 
line  so  frequently  as  when  the  work  is  accomplished  by  the  hoe. 

Hoes  are  of  many  and  varied  de- 
scriptions, sizes  and  shapes.  Fig.  3 
gives  an  idea  of  the  most  useful. 
They  should  be  of  the  very  best 
of  steel,  with  rather  strong,  round 
handles,  five  feet  long.    They  are  in  pig,  3. 

sizes  from  three  to  ten  inches.    Those  of  three,  five,  seven  and 
nine  inches  are  generally  used. 

Pronged  Hoes,  Fig.  4,  are  very  kji 

useful,    indeed    indispensable,   for     ^  o 

stirring   the    soil    and    destroying  <J 

weeds.     They  are  of  steel  or  malic-  Fig.  4. 

able  iron  :  the  latter  generally  used,  though  the  former  is  pre 


ferable  ;  handles  four  and  a  half  feet  long 


J 


12 


BCIST'S    FAJIILY    KITCHEN    GARDENEK. 


Fig.  6. 


The  Dutch^  or  Scvffle  Hoe,  Fig. 
5,  is  -very  useful  for  cleaning 
walks  and  cutting  weeds  where 
the  ground  is  of  a  light  nature. 
It  is  also  called  a  Thrust  Hoe 
(being  used  by  pushing  from  you) 
in  contradistinction  to  the  Draw  ^^'    ' 

Hoe,  Fig.  3.,  which  is  best  adapted 
for  all  heavy  work. 

The  Reel  and  Line,  Fig  6.  The  reel  is  of 
wood  or  iron  ;  the  latter  is  preferable.  It  con- 
sists of  two  parts,  the  shank  and  the  head. 
The  head  turns  round  on  the  shank  and 
winds  up  ti  e  line  or  cord,  which  can  be  of 
any  length. 

The  Trowel,  Fig.  7,  is  very 
useful  for  removing  plants 
and  lifting  them  with  balls 
of  earth  for  transplanting. 
It  should  b»  -  of  the  best  iron  Fig.  7. 

or  steel,  with  a  square  socket  into  the  handle,  and  from  five  to 
nine  inches  h  ng,  exclusive  of  the  handle. 

The  Dibber  is  a  short  piece  of  round  wood,  generally  made 
from  an  old  spade  or  shovel  handle^  about  one  and  a  half  feet 
long,  obtusely  pointed,  frequently  shod  with  iron  on  the  one 
end,  and  conveniently  formed  for  the  hand  on  the  other.  It 
should  be  well  made,  as  it  is  of  very  general  use,  and  if  iron- 
shod,  will  last  half  a  century. 

Garden  Watering-pot. — Of  this  utensil  there  are  several 
sizes  ;  those  that  hold  from  three  to  four  gallons  are  of  the 
proper  dimensions ;  they  should  be  made  of  the  best  double 
tin,  having  two  roses — the  one  pierced  with  holes  the  twen- 
tieth, the  other  the  fortieth  part  of  an  inch.  Keep  them  well 
painted,  and  when  not  in  use,  the  mouth  downwards. 


ON    IMPLi!:MENTS. 


13 


Itl 


The  Grass-edging  Iron  or  Knife, 
Fig.  8,  is  for  cutting  the  turf 
of  grass  borders  or  walks 
should  be  of  the  very  best  steel,  p|||iii|v 
with  a   round,  strong    handle,  ||l!!ii;!!if|ii|pi]i|j|^! 
about    three   and   a   half  feet   f'         ' 
long. 


Garden  Hook.  Fig.  9,  for 
dressing  hedges,  made  of  the  jflf 
very    best    steel,    having   a  ^ 
handle  of  an   oval  form,  of 
strong  wood,  3^   feet   long, 


Fig.  a 


Fig  9. 


avjd  of  a  small  size,  that  the  hand  may  conveniently  grasp  it. 


Fig.  10. 
Garden  Shears,  Fig.  10,  are  of  various  sizes,  from  six  to 
twelve  inch  blades,  and  used  for  cutting  edgings  of  Box,  clip- 
ping hedges,  and  many  other  purposes.  They  are  of  great 
variety  and  quality.  The  seven  and  nine-inch  sizes  are  most 
convenient. 


14 


buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


Ladies'  Shears,  Fig.  1 1 . 
These  are  of  the  very  best 
material,  neatly  madej  for 
the  use  of  ladies  who  take 
a  delight  in  gardening 
operations. 


Fig.  11, 


Fig.  12. 

Grass-edging  Shears,  Fig.  12.  These  are  made  cxpresbly 
for  cutting  grass-edgings,  and  have  a  wheel  that  rests  on  the 
walk  while  the  shears  trim  off  the  grass.  It  is  a  very  con- 
venient and  expeditious  implement. 

Hand-  Glass,  Fig.  1 3.  These  are  made 
of  red  cedar,  or  cast  iron.  The  latter  is 
most  neat  and  durable.  It  consists  of 
two  parts,  the  bottom  and  top.  A  use- 
ful utensil  for  growing  seeds  of  early  Cel- 
ery, Tomato,  Egg-plant,  or  any  other  ar- 
ticle of  early  culture  :  also  well  adapted  Fig.  13. 
for  covering  Cauliflower  plants  where  the  winters  are  not  very 
severe.  When  air  is  to  be  given  to  the  plants  enclosed,  it  is 
done  by  lifting  up  the  top  and  replacing  it  diagonally  ;  by  this 
means  air  is  freely  admitted.  A  glass  case  may  be  made  of 
any  height  with  these  hand-glasses,  by  merely  placing  the 
bottom  frames  one  upon  the  other.  Those  we  use  are  of  cast 
iron,  and  cost  $3.50  each. 


ON    IMPLEMENTS. 


15 


A  Sunk  Pit,  Fig.  14,  is  in 
part  in  the  earth  and  partly 
above  it,  by  forming  sides  of 
brick,  stone,  locust,  chestnut, 
or  cedar  boards.  On  these, 
glass   frames   are   sometimes 


Fig.  14. 


Pig.  15. 


placed,  and  at  other  times  only  mats  or  shutters.  Such  pits 
answer  for  the  preservation  of  vegetables,  such  as  Endive,  Cel- 
ery, Lettuce,  Cauliflower,  Broccoli,  &c.  Air  is  given  on  all  oc- 
casions when  it  can  be  done  with  safety,  by  propping  up  the 
sash  or  shutters. 

The  Walled Fit,¥ig. 
15,  is  also  partly  sunk 
in  the  ground  and  part- 
ly out.  The  walls  are 
formed  of  brick  or 
stone,  finished  with  a 
wooden  or  stone  cop- 
ing, the  width  of  the 
wall,  into  which  cross  rafters  are  mortised  (but  moveable)  to 
support  the  sashes.  Our  object  in  having  them  moveable  is 
to  admit  of  their  being  raised  as  the  growth  of  Cauliflowers 
or  any  other  plants  require.  This  is  readily  done  by  having 
a  strong  two-inch  plank  made  to  fit  the  back  and  front  of  the 
pit,  and  to  rest  on  the  coping  ;  the  rafters  to  rest  on  these 
planks  either  by  mortising  holes  for  their  reception,  or  to  have 
them  to  rest  on  clets.  This  is  a  great  convenience,  and 
overcomes  the  difficulty  every  grower  feels  when  his  Cauli- 
flowers touch  the  glass. 

There  is  no  appendage  to  the  garden  of  greater  utility  than 
this  pit.  It  is  two  feet  under  ground,  one  foot  above  it  in  front, 
and  two  feet  above  it  at  the  back,  and  six  or  seven  feet  wide  in 
the  clear.  It  is  an  excellent  winter  apartment  for  plants  when 
covered  with  sash  and  mats.  When  filled  with  very  rich  earth 
it  grows  fine  Cauliflowers,  that  will  be  in  use  from  March  to 


16  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

May.  If  filled  with  warm  manure  early  in  February,  it  will 
grow  Cucumbers  that  will  be  in  use  from  April  to  July,  or 
grow  Radishes  and  small  sallading  in  quantity.  In  summer 
the  sashes  can  be  used  for  growing  fine  varieties  of  Grapes. 
See  our  article  on  Fruits. 

Sash  Light,  Fig.  16.     Made  of  yellow  or  the 
best  seasoned  white  pine,  1-^  to  2  inches  thick 


The  sash  should  be  3  feet  8  inches  wide,  and  i'~"""i~~.^"_ZZ'' 
6  or  more  feet  long ;  the  glass  we  prefer  is  6  ' "-      ....^ssz^ 
by  6,  or  6  by  8,  and  of  the  best  quality.     The        Fig.  16. 
wood  must  have  two  coats  of  oil  paint  before  glazing,  and  at 
least  one  coat  afterwards.     All  the  glass  must  be  bedded  in 
soft  putty  ;  the  laps  of  the  glass  should  not  exceed  half  an  inch  : 
one-fourth  of  an  inch,  if  well  done,  is  quite  sufficient.     A  sash 
well  painted  and  protected  when  not  in  use,  will  last  from 
thirty  to  forty  years.     The  smaller  the  panes  of  glass  the  le^s 
will  be  the  damage  from  breakage. 

The  Common  Hot-Bed  Frame  is  a  box  of  wood,  bottomless, 
of  any  length  or  breadth  to  suit  the  object  in  view,  but  generally 
six  feet  wide  and  from  six  to  sixteen  feet  long,  highest  at  the 
side  to  be  placed  to  the  north,  and  subdivided  by  cross-bars,  and 
each  division  covered  by  a  glazed  sash.  The  component  parts 
of  the  above  frame,  instead  of  being  mortised  into  one  another, 
should  be  fastened  with  hooks  and  staples,  or  keyed  iron  bolts, 
which  easily  admit  of  their  being  taken  asunder  and  put  under 
cover  when  they  are  not  wanted  for  use.  I  have  about  a  hun- 
dred sashes  that  can  be  taken  apart  and  stowed  away,  or  erected 
in  one  day. 

Vegetable  or  Kitchen  Garden,  with  a  select  assortment  of  Fruit 
combined,  Fig.  17.  This  arrangement  afi'ords  great  facilities 
for  croping  the  ground  and  a  rotation  of  crops.  It  also  con- 
fines the  trees  to  one  place,  for  the  purpose  of  giving  a  partial 
shade  to  the  main  walk  in  summer,  without  injuring  any  of  the 
vegetables.  This  plan  is  decidedly  preferable  to  the  mode  of 
distributing  the  trees  over  the  garden. 


ON    IMPLEMENTS. 


1/ 


1     I    1^1     ' 

i       ^        ; 

-1^      -t?       -r<  t^-^     -^       ^ 

^        -«        -le  -V  O)  -« jS 


-^       vfe  •%? 


^ 


5 

"^      •■%      'J$         =^  CD-f^         -^      -^ 

-&     -^      '^     -^ 
-4;      *      >*r.         -^     fe 

1            1          1^1           1 

i        ^         : 

o 

Fig.  17. 

a  a — Main  entrance. 

b  b — Grape-vine  arbor. 

c  c — A  border  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide  all  round  the  garden,  for  tnu 
smaller  and  finer  sorts  of  vegetables. 

d  d — Compartments  for  vegetables  in  quantity,  divided  by  alleys. 

e  e — Row  of  choice  Pear  trees  on  each  side  of  the  walk,  affording  shade. 

//—Rows  of  dwarf  trees,  either  Plum,  Gluince,  Peach  on  the  Plum 
stock.  Apricots,  or  dwarf  Pears, 

g  ^— Large  compartments,  surrounded  by  Currant  and  Raspoerry 
bushes,  for  early  Corn,  early  Potatoes,  or  any  vegetable  of  which  a  large 
quantity  is  grown.  If  situation  will  admit  of  it,  the  pits  or  frames  can 
be  in  these  quarters,  portioned  off  by  a  low  hedge. 


18 


buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


GARDEN  SEEDS   FOR  HALF  AN  ACRE. 

The  following  seeds,  with  judicious  management,  will  fully 
crop  a  garden  of  half  an  acre,  which  will  supply  a  moderate 
sized  family  with  vegetables  throughout  the  year.  Vegetable 
seeds,  where  carefully  grown  in  this  country,  are  (with  a  few 
exceptions)  preferable  to  those  imported  ;  but  the  utter  care- 
lessness manifested  by  many  in  keeping  them  apart  when 
growing,  is  not  to  be  recommended. 


1  oz.  Asparagus. 

4  oz.  Mustard. 

3  qts.  Beans,  of  sorts. 

i  oz.  Melons. 

4  oz.  Beet,  of  sorts. 

^  oz.   Okra. 

I  oz.  Broccoli. 

2  oz.  Onions,  sorts. 

i  oz.  Cauliflower. 

1  pap.  Parsley. 

4  oz.  Cabbage,  of  sorts. 

1   oz.  Parsneps. 

•^  oz.  Celery. 

1  pap.  Peppers. 

8  oz.  Cress. 

i  oz.  Pumpkin. 

i  oz.  Cucumber. 

8  qts.  Peas. 

1   oz.  Carrot. 

8  oz.  Radish. 

1  qt.  Early  Corn. 

i  oz.  Salsafy. 

i  pkt.  Egg  Plant. 

i  oz.  Squash. 

■^  oz.  Endive. 

8  oz.  Spinage. 

i  oz.  Leek. 

I  pap.  Tomatoes. 

1  qt.  Lima  Beans. 

2  oz.  Turnip. 

1  oz.  Lettuce,  of  sorts. 

6  pap.  Pot  and  Sweet  Herbs. 

Cost  about  $10. 

Seeds  should  always  be  kept  in  bags,  in  a  dry,  airy  situa- 
tion. Wall  closets  and  cellars  are  objectionable,  from  their 
dampness.  All  seeds  will  keep  two,  and  many  from  three  to 
six  years. 


ARHCHOKE.  19 


ARTICHOKE. 

Cy'nara  Scolymus — Artichaut,  Fr. — Artischoke,  Ger. 

The  Artichoke  is  principally  cultivated  in  the  gardens  of 
the  French,  by  whom  it  is  considered  more  as  a  luxury  than  a 
profitable  esculent.  There  are  two  varieties,  the  Globe  and 
the  Green ;  the  former  is  so  called  from  its  globular  head,  of 
a  dull,  purplish  tint.  The  scales  are  turned  in  at  the  top 
more  than  the  other  variety,  and  it  is  preferred,  as  the  scales, 
or  edibl^^arts,  are  thicker  and  possess  most  flavor.  The 
^^^Srt^P^mm-e  hardy  and  prolific,  the  scales  are  more  open, 
an^  the  'pBint  better  adapted  for  culture  in  cold  climates 
than  the  former. 

The  heads  in  their  immature  state,  and  before  their  blue, 
thistle-like  flowers  open,  are  cut  and  boiled  in  salt  and  water ; 
the  edible  part  is  .merjly  the  fleshy  substance  on  the  bottom 
of  the  scales,  which,,  to  Jaake  palatable,  has  to  be  dipped  in  a 
nicely  prepared  saijce  ijpf  butter  and  spices.  They  are  fre- 
quently, however,  eaten  as  a  salad  in  a  raw  state. 

Culture. — It  is  propagated  from  seeds,  or  by  division  of 
th^oung  suckers  that  arise  from  the  roots  of  the  old  plants 
in  Spring.  They  are  fit  to  slip  or  cut  off  after  they  have  made 
a  few  roots  and  leaves.  Plant  them  three  feet  apart  each 
way,  in  soil  well-prepared  by  digging  and  manuring ;  water 
each  plant  freely,  and  occasionally  if  the  weather  continues  dry, 
till  they  have  taken  root ;  keep  constantly  stirring  the  soil, 
and  destroying  the  weeds.  On  the  approach  of  winter  remove 
all  decayed  leaves — although  it  appears  a  very  strong  plant,  yet 
north  of  Virginia  it  requires  more  or  less  protection,  and  may 
be  covered  with  the  earth  taken  from  between  the  rows,  and 
drawn  well  up  round  the  roots.  In  very  severe  seasons,  an 
additional  covering  of  dry  litter  or  branches  is  advisable.  In 
Spring  remove  all  the  litter,  level  down  the  soil,  and  examine 


20  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

the  stools.  Let  those  of  the  strongest  grow  to  produce  heads, 
the  rest  are  removed  by  a  pressure  of  the  thumb  or  a  cut  with 
the  kuife.  Dig  the  whole  ground  level,  using  yearly  plenty 
of  good  rotten  manure.  A  bed  will  continue  productive  for 
seven  or  more  years.  If  the  heads  are  not  wanted  for  use  or 
seed,  they  should  be  destroyed  from  the  stem,  which  promotes 
the  strength  and  vitality  of  the  plant.  Seed  sown  early  in  Spring, 
in  drills,  eighteen  inches  apart  and  two  inches  deep,  will  produce 
good  plants  the  first  season,  and  even  be  more  permanent  than 
those  procured  from  offsets.  Protect  them  carefully  the  first 
winter ;  transplant  early  in  Spring,  as  above  directed,  for  offsets. 
They  will  produce  a  few  heads  the  following  year.  and.  tl^ere- 
after  a  regular  crop.  If  quality  is  preferred  to  qi||^tity,  the" 
head  that  surmounts  the  stem  only  should  be  allowed  to  grow  ; 
all  the  lateral  ones  growing  on  the  same  stalk  should  be.  re- 
moved in  their  young  state. 


ASPARAGUS. 

Asparagus  qffldndlis — Aspergc,  Fr. — Spargel,  Ger. 

This  universal  vegetable  is  supposed  to  be  a  native  of  Great 
Britain,  where  it  is  found  on  banks  of  sandy  soil  contiguous 
to  the  sea,  growing  luxuriantly  under  the  salt  breezes.  Culti- 
vators have  found  that  salt  brine,  or  a  thin  covering  of  salt 
thrown  over  the  beds  in  the  Fall,  before  they  have  their  final 
dressing,  proves  very  beneficial  to  its  growth.  Although  it  is  not 
considered  a  very  nutricious  vegetable,  yet  it  occupies  a  con- 
siderable proportion  of  every  garden,  and  is  extensively  culti- 
vated for  our  markets — some  growers  having  eight  or  ten  acres 
under  culture,  and  I  have  no  doubt  that  in  a  very  few  years  it 
will  be  increased  ten-fold. 

Propagation. — This  is  accomplished  only  by  seeds.  When  a 
new  bed  is  formed,  in  order  to  save  time,  two  or  three-year  old 
plants  may  be  procured  from  Nurserymen  or  Gardeners,  at  a 
very  low  rate.     There  are  several  varieties  of  Asparagus  n9,med 


ASPARAGUS.  -     21 


in  catalogues,  but  there  is  a  great  similarity  among  them,  and 
we  will  class  them  into  two  only,  the  Green-top  and  the  Purple- 
top.  The  former  is  round  in  the  top  and  of  a  bright  green  co- 
lor. The  latter  of  a  purple  reddish-green  color,  very  close 
headed,  and  is  the  sort  generally  cultivated.  There  is  another 
supposed  variety  called  the  Giant^  which  is  greatly  extolled  by 
Seedsmen  on  account  of  its  size,  but  I  believe  the  principal  se- 
cret lies  in  the  quality  of  the  soil  and  the  superiority  of  cul- 
ture. Sow  the  seed  early  in  Spring,  (about  a  pound  will  be  suffi- 
cient for  a  family),  thinly,  in  drills,  one  and  a-half  to  two  inches 
deep,  and  eighteen  inches  from  row  to  row — in  good,  rich,  sandy, 
loamy  soil,  well  manured  and  prepared.  Strong  one-year  old 
plants  are  much  better  for  transplanting  than  those  of  even  three 
years'  old,  when  the  growth  has  been  indifferent.  Rake  the 
ground  even,  and  keep  it  free  from  weeds  by  frequent  hoeing. 
About  the  first  of  the  following  November,  some  stable  litter 
should  be  spread  over  the  ground,  to  keep  the  young  roots 
from  frost. 

Culture. — The  best  ground  for  Asparagus  is  a  light,  sandy 
loam,  at  least  two  feet  deep.  Before  planting  it  should  be  dug 
very  deep  or  trenched  in  the  way  we  have  recommended,  burying 
in  plenty  of  manure,  as  no  more  can  be  supplied  after  the  beds 
are  planted  (unless  by  surface  dressings).  The  ground  can 
scarcely  be  too  rich,  for  the  sweetness  and  tenderness  of  the 
shoots  depend  on  the  rapidity  of  the  growth,  which  is  greatly 
promoted  by  the  richness  of  the  soil.  A  plot  of  ground  twenty 
feet  wide  and  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  long  will  be  suitable  for  a 
moderate-sized  family.  Over  it  sow  from  fifty  to  one  hundred 
pounds  of  salt,  incorporating  it  with  the  soil  to  the  depth  of  four 
or  five  inches.  The  ground  having  been  well  prepared  and  pro- 
perly leveled,  divide  it  off  into  beds  four  feet  wide,  with  alleys  of 
two  feet  between  them.  The  work  should  all  be  done  in  fine  wea- 
ther, about  the  end  of  March.  Drive  in  a  strong  stake  ax  each 
corner,  take  up  the  plants  carefully  from  the  seed-rows  with  a 
fork,  and  expose  them  to  the  air  as  little  as  possible,  keeping 


22  biiist's  family  kitchExN  gardener. 

them  covered  during  tlie  time  of  planting,  and  not  allowing  the 
roots  to  get  dry.  Stretch  a  line  lengthwise  along  the  bed,  nine 
inches  from  the  edge,  and  with  a  spade  cut  a  small  furrow,  six 
inches  deep.  Having  the  plants  ready,  set  a  row  along  the  trench, 
nine  inches  apart,  with  the  crown  of  the  roots  two  inches  below 
the  surface,  drawing  a  little  earth  upon  them  to  fix  them  as 
placed.  Having  finished  a  row,  cover  them  directly  with  the 
earth  that  has  been  thrown  out  of  the  furrow,  raking  it  regularly 
and  to  an  equal  depth  over  the  crown  of  the  plants.  Proceed 
to  open  another  furrow  a  foot  from  the  first ;  plant  and  finish  it 
as  above,  when  you  will  have  four  rows  to  each  bed.  After  all  is 
planted,  rake  the  beds  lengthwise,  drawing  off  all  stones  and  rub- 
bish :  dress  the  surface  neatly  and  evenly.  Let  the  edges  be 
lined  out  in  exact  order,  allowing  two  feet  to  each  alley.  As 
these  alleys  will  be  of  little  service  the  first  season,  and  no  waste 
ground  should  ever  be  seen  in  a  garden,  dig  them  up  and  plant 
a  row  of  cabbage  in  each.  Nothing  further  will  be  required 
during  the  Summer  than  to  destroy  all  weeds.  The  following 
Winter  cover  them  to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  inches  with  rotten 
manure,  to  keep  the  crowns  from  sun  and  frost ;  if,  in  the  Spring, 
the  earth  is  found  to  have  settled  in  any  part,  the  deficiency 
must  be  made  up  with  more  mould.  It  is  a  common  practice 
to  sow  Radishes  upon  the  beds,  but  it  is  an  injurious  one,  as  it 
robs  the  ground  of  a  great  portion  of  its  nutriment,  so  essen- 
tial to  their  luxuriant  growth.  The  plants  are  permitted  the 
two  first  years  to  run  up  to  stalks,  that  strong  crowns  may  be 
formed  at  their  base  for  the  future  crop. 

After  the  third  year,  the  beds  will  require  the  following 
mode  of  treatment.  From  the  middle  of  October  to  the  end 
of  November  give  them  their  winter  dressing,  which  consists 
in  cutting  down  the  stalks  close  to  the  ground  and  clearing  the 
beds  from  weeds ;  drawing  them  off  at  the  same  time  with  a 
rake  into  the  alleys,  to  be  buried  or  taken  to  the  compost 
heap  to  be  mixed  up  with  other  litter  and  again  returned  to  the 
soil.    Cover  the  whole  of  the  bed  with  two  or  three  inches  of  ma- 


ASI'APwAGUS.  23 


nure ;  the  alleys  must  be  dug  spade  deep,  at  the  same  time  spread- 
ing some  soil  over  the  manure  on  the  beds,  and  leveling  the  whole 
evenly.  It  may  be  supposed  that  the  annual  dressing  in  this 
way  will  in  a  few  years  considerably  raise  the  beds ;  but  by  the 
Spring  forking  and  raking,  together  with  the  hoeing  and  dress- 
ing during  Summer,  a  considerable  portion  of  the  earth  is  being 
continually  drawn  again  into  the  alleys. 

As  soon  as  the  frost  is  fairly  out  of  the  ground  in  the  Spring, 
loosen  the  surface  of  the  beds  with  a  fork,  introducing  it  three 
or  four  inches  into  the  soil,  turning  up  the  earth  with  care  not 
to  wound  the  crown  of  the  roots.  Then  make  the  surface  of 
the  beds  even  and  equal,  drawing  off  the  rough  earth,  stones, 
&c.,  into  the  alleys  ;  finish  by  stretching  a  line  along  the  edge 
of  the  beds,  and  trim  them  neatly  off  with  the  spade.  Stirring 
the  bed  in  this  manner  enables  the  shoots  to  rise  in  free 
growth  ;  admits  the  air,  rain,  and  sunshine  into  the  ground, 
and  encourages  the  roots  to  produce  buds  of  a  strong  size.  A 
full  crop  may  be  expected  the  fourth  season  after  planting. 
The  proper  method  of  cutting  them  is  to  scrape  a  little  of  the 
earth  away  from  each  shoot ;  then,  with  a  sharp-pointed,  long- 
bladed  knife,  cut  off  the  shoot  slantingly,  about  three  inches 
under  the  surface,  taking  care  not  to  wound  the  younger  buds 
that  are  advancing  below  in  different  stages  of  growth.  It  is 
in  the  best  state  for  cutting  when  it  is  four  inches  above  ground, 
and  while  the  top  remains  close  and  round.  The  cutting 
should  never  extend  beyond  the  middle  of  June.  • 

Asparagus  beds,  with  good  culture,  will  continue  to  give 
bountiful  crops  for  twelve  or  fifteen  years.  It  is  frequently 
forced  on  dung  hot-beds,  and  in  the  hands  of  the  initiated,  with 
great  success  ;  but  to  go  into  the  general  minutiae  of  forcing- 
vegetables,  would  take  us  entirely  beyond  our  limits ;  a  few 
hints  however,  will  give  an  idea  of  the  operation.  Prepare  a 
hot-bed  of  two  lights,  in  the  way  we  have  directed  for  cucum- 
bers, about  two  feet  high  at  back  and  twenty  inches  in  front. 
Cover  it  with  four  inches  of  soil ;  lay  thereon  roots  that  are  at 


24  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

least  four  years  old ;  cover  them  three  inches  with  the  same 
soil,  and  give  the  whole  a  copious  watering.  Admit  air  at  the 
back  by  tilting  the  sash  daily,  in  sunshine.  In  two  weeks,  or 
three  at  most,  you  may  expect  to  be  able  to  cut  for  the  table. 
A  bed  of  this  sort  will  produce  daily,  or  at  least  every  two 
days,  a  dish  for  the  table,  and  continue  in  bearing  three  or  four 
weeks.  The  process  may  be  carried  to  the  extent  of  the  de- 
mand. Where  properly  managed,  it  will  fully  compensate 
either  as  a  luxury  or  a  marketable  article. 


BASIL. 

O'cymum  Basilicum. — Basilic^  Fr. — Basilikum,  Ger. 

There  are  two  sorts  of  Basil,  the  sweet  or  large  leaved, 
Ocymuni  Basilicum ;  and  the  small  leaved  or  bush  Basil,  Ocy- 
mum  minimum.  The  qualities  of  both  are  the  same,  but  the 
former  is  principally  used  for  culinary  purposes.  They  are 
both  annuals  ;  the  leaves  or  tops  are  the  parts  gathered  for 
use.  The  French  are  very  partial  to  the  flavor  of  this  plant ; 
its  leaves  enter  into  the  composition  of  many  of  their  soups 
and  sauces  ;  and,  on  account  of  their  strong  flavor  of  cloves, 
are  used  in  all  highly-seasoned  dishes,  and  even  introduced 
into  salads. 

Culture. — The  seeds  should  be  sown  on  rich,  light  ground, 
about  the  middle  of  April,  or  it  may  be  grown  in  a  gentle  hot- 
bed with  early  salad,  and  transplanted  to  the  open  ground 
about  the  end  of  the  month,  in  rows  one  foot  apart  and  six 
inches  from  plant  to  plant.  It  makes  a  very  good  edging  for 
some  of  the  vegetable  quarters.  It  is  a  tender  plant  and  very 
easily  injured  by  the  early  frosts  of  autumn,  previous  to  which 
they  should  be  pulled  up  by  the  roots,  tied  in  small  bunches, 
and  hung  up  in  an  airy  room  or  loft  to  dry.  They  will  retain 
a  great  portion  of  their  aromatic  qualities  for  Winter  use. 


BEANS.  25 

BEANS. 

Phaseolus  vulgaris, — Haricot^  Fr. — SchminkbohTie,  Ger. 

This  vegetable  is  one  of  the  standards  of  the  garden  for 
summer  culture.  It  is  an  every-day  dish  for  the  table.  The 
numerous  forms  in  which  it  can  be  served  up  ;  the  rich,  buttery 
flavor  of  some  of  the  varieties ;  the  crisp,  juicy  character  of 
others,  renders  at  least  some  of  the  family  palatable  to  the 
m'ost  fastidious. 

The  following  are  Bush-Beans^  or  Snap- Shorts^  and  their 
characteristic  of  excellence  is  their  breaking  crisply.  If  tough, 
they  are  unfit  for  cooking.  They  are  arranged  in  the  rotation 
of  their  coming  to  maturity.  Some  growers  prefer  one  va- 
riety only,  while  others  prefer  several  sorts.  Our  remarks 
a.re  all  made  with  the  articles  under  our  culture,  and  notes 
taken  on  the  spot.  We  pay  no  regard  to  the  hacknied  quota- 
tions handed  down  from  one  writer  to  another. 

Early  Mohawk. — A  variety  that  resists  more  frost,  as  an 
early  crop,  than  any  other.  It  is  an  excellent  bearer,  pods 
long  ;  beans,  when  ripe,  large,  oval,  dark  speckled.  Sown  13th 
May,  fit  for  the  table  June   16th. 

Early  Six-  Weeks. — Not  so  hardy  as  the  former,  but  equally 
early.     It  is  a  light-colored  Bean. 

Early  Valentine.  —  The  Valentine  Beans  are  extensively 
cultivated  in  this  vicinity  for  the  market.  They  are  the  sorts 
that  have  round  pods,  and  continue  on  the  plant  a  long  period 
for  culinary  purposes.  A  great  bearer,  of  a  salmon  color, 
with  pink  spots.     Sown  13th  May,  fit  for  the  table  June  20th. 

Yellow  Six- Weeks. — In  growth  and  maturity  very  similar 
to  the  former,  though  three  days  later. 

Late  Valentme.  or  Refugee. — A  very  excellent  variety,  very 
similar  in  appearance  to  the  Early  Valentine  when  green. 
2 


26  BUIST-S    FAMILY    KITCHEN    GARDENER. 

though  a  stronger  grower.  Color  dark-brown,  speckled.  Sown 
13th  May,  fit  for  use  June  25th. 

Black  Valentine  is  a  most  excellent  yariety,  a  great  bearer, 
and  of  delicate  flavor.  Ripens  a  few  days  later  than  the  for- 
mer. 

Royal  White-Kidney. — The  best  late  variety  ;  has  long  pods, 
richly  flavored,  and  for  family  use  is  indispensable,  not  only  in 
its  green  state,  but  for  Winter  use.  As  a  vegetable  it  is  prefer- 
able to  any  other.     Sown  13th  May,  fit  for  the  table  July  1st. 

The  above  sorts  may  be  sown  at  any  time  from  the  1 0th  of 
April  to  the  25th  of  August.  The  first  sowing  in  Spring  is 
frequently  cut  ofl"  with  frost,  though  we  have  seen  the  Valentine 
sorts  all  killed,  while  the  Mohawk  stood  uninjured.  It  should 
therefore  always  be  adopted  for  the  earliest  sowing.  A  few 
rows  of  each  sort  sown  every  two  weeks  will  keep  a  succession 
for  the  table  from  the  first  of  June  till  the  middle  of  October. 
As  this  crop  does  not  long  occupy  the  ground,  it  can  frequently 
be  sown  between  rows  of  Corn,  ridges  of  Celery,  or  Drumhead 
Cabbage  when  they  are  first  planted. 

CuLTUE-E. — Any  good,  light,  rich  soil  will  grow  this  Bean  in 
perfection.  Draw  drills  with  the  hoe  two  and  a  half  inches 
deep,  and  from  one  foot  to  eighteen  inches  from  row  to  row ;  drop 
the  beans  regularly  therein,  about  two  inches  apart ;  cover  up 
carefully  and  expeditiously ;  give  frequent  and  deep  hoeings  to 
keep  open  the  soil.  As  soon  as  the  crop  is  three  inches  high, 
draw  the  earth  to  their  stems.  When  they  begin  to  show 
their  flower  bud,  draw  a  few  inches  more,  which  is  termed  by 
gardeners,  earthing  up. 

Seed. — Where  seed  is  wished  to  be  saved,  the  sorts  must 
be  grown  apart,  as  far  as  practicable,  for  they  are  very  suscep- 
tible of  mixture,  if  even  within  fifty  yards  of  each  other. 


BEANS.  27 

Running  or  Pole  Beans  {Haricot  a  rames^  Fr. ;  Stangen 
bohue,  Ger.)  are  sorts  in  great  esteem ;  especially  the  Lima, 
of  which  there  are  two  varieties,,  the  White  and  Green. 
Both  are  excellent  in  flavor.  The  latter  has  the  advantage  of 
size,  and  the  former  of  producing  a  more  certain  and  uniform 
crop.  It  is  the  variety  most  extensively  cultivated  for  the 
Philadelphia  market,  covering  an  extent  of  over  two  hundred 
acres  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city. 

Culture. — They  are  planted  in  the  last  week  of  April,  or 
first  week  of  May,  in  hills  very  similar  to  Indian  Corn,  and 
about  the  same  distance  apart.  In  fact,  those  who  can  plant 
Corn,  can  plant  Lima  Beans  ;  though  strangers  to  this  luscious 
vegetable  often  make  very  curious  mistakes  in  its  culture,  some 
drawing  drills  and  sowing  them  therein,  others  digging  pits 
and  burying  the  delicate  seed  (which  is  impatient  of  cold  or 
moisture)  six  or  eight  inches  deep ;  the  results  from  both  of 
which  operations  must  be  nearly  a  total  failure.  Some  sprout 
these  beans  in  a  hot-bed,  and  transplant  them  into  the  hills 
in  which  they  are  to  grow ;  but  very  little,  if  any  time,  is 
gained  by  the  trouble.  A  hill  of  good,  rich  earth,  raised  a  few 
inches  above  the  level,  and  five  or  six  beans  put  two  inches 
deep  therein,  will  be  found  the  safest  and  surest.  If  three 
grow,  it  is  enough  ;  if  not,  plant  over  again.  They  will  grow 
twenty  feet ;  but  rods  of  twelve  feet,  placed  two  feet  in  the 
ground  at  the  time  the  hill  is  made,  will  support  them.  Cold 
damp  weather  frequently  destroys  the  first  and  even  the  sec- 
ond planting. 

Carolina  or  Seicee  Bea?i,  has  all  the  habits  of  the  Lima, 
though  not  so  large.  It  is  more  hardy,  and  produces  as  pro- 
fusely, but  has  not  so  much  of  the  rich,  buttery  flavor. 

Dutch-  Case  Knife  is  an  excellent  pole  Bean,  producing  a 
good  crop,  of  tine  flavor,  and  much  earlier  for  the  table  than 
either  the  Lima  or  Carolina.  It  can  be  used  either  in  or  with- 
out the  pod  ;  it  is  also  well  adapted  for  Winter  use. 


28  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

Cranberry.^  both  the  Red  and  White  are  much  cultivated, 
though  we  decidedly  prefer  the  latter.  They  are  of  the  easi- 
est culture ;  the  corn-field  can  be  used,  if  the  garden  does  not 
suffice.  In  fact,  we  see  no  reason  why  every  farmer  should 
not  have  a  few  Beans,  even  of  the  Lima,  on  every  corn-hill. 
The  stalks  would  support  the  vines  ;  the  produce  would  bring 
four  dollars  per  bushel ;  or  even  for  family  use,  they  would  be 
profitable  for  an  everj^-day  vegetable  the  whole  Winter ;  they 
are  a  certain  crop,  even  'preferable  to  the  Potato,  more  nutri- 
tive, while  the  latter  is  becoming  a  precarious  crop,  and  of  an 
indifferent  quality. 

Scarlet  Runners  require  to  be  earlier  planted  than  the  Lima 
Bean,  that  they  may  be  well  advanced  in  growth  before  the  hot 
weather  begins,  which  stunts  their  growth  and  prevents  their 
blooming.  They  must  be  poled  in  the  same  way.  The.  blos- 
soms are  red,  hence  their  name. 

Vicia  Faha — Feve  de  Marais  of  the  French,  or  Windsor 
Bean  of  the  English — are  of  trifiing  value  for  this  climate,  com- 
pared with  the  sorts  previously  described.  However,  in  cool 
climates,  on  rich  loamy  soil,  they  will,  if  planted  early,  make 
a  return  for  the  use  of  the  ground,  and  prove  a  variety  for  the 
table.  The  Windsor  and  early  Long  Pod  are  the  best  vari- 
eties. Plant  them  in  drills  eighteen  inches  asunder,  and  two 
inches  apart  in  the  row. 


BEET. 

Beta  vulgaris. — Beterave,  Fr. — Rothe  Riibe,  Ger. 

The  Beet  is  a  native  of  the  sea-coast  of  the  south  of  Europe. 
It  takes  its  name  from  the  shape  of  its  seed-vessel,  which,  when 
it  swells  with  the  seed,  has  the  form  of  the  letter  beta  (/?)  of  the 
Greek  alphabet. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  the  Beet  in  cultivation  for  cul- 
inary purposes,  but  the  most  essential  sorts  are  confined  to 
the  Long  Blood  and  Turnip  Rooted. 


BEET.  29 


The  Turnip  Rooted  is  the  earliest  variety,  and  takes  its  name 
from  the  form  of  the  root.  Its  quality  is  decided  by  the  rich- 
ness of  color  and  closeness  of  the  grain. 

Long  Blood  is  the  sort  run  upon  for  a  general  crop,  to  use  dur- 
ing Winter  and  Spring.  It  often  grows  twelve  or  fourteen  inches 
long  and  four  or  five  inches  thick.  Beet  is  used  and  prepared 
for  the  table  in  a  great  variety  of  ways.  It  is  boiled  and  sliced, 
and  eaten  cold  with  vinegar ;  it  is  sliced  in  salads,  both  as  an 
eatable  and  a  garnish  ;  it  also  makes  a  beautiful  and  agreeable 
pickle.  The  root  itself,  if  eaten  alone,  affords  but  little  nourish- 
ment, though  quite  indispensable  on  a  table  of  jjny  pretensions. 

White  Beet  is  esteemed  only  for  its  stalks,  or  the  mid-rib  of 
the  leaves,  which,  being  divested  of  the  leafy  part,  iniproves 
the  flavor  of  soups  ;  or  if  peeled  and  stewed,  it  can  be  eaten 
like  Asparagus. 

Radish-rooted  Beet  is  a  new  variety,  of  a  very  dark  blood-red 
color  ;  in  shape  very  similar  to  the  long  scarlet  Kadish,  though 
much  larger. 

Whytc^s  New  Blood- Beet  is  an  improvement  in  richness  of 
color  on  the  old  Long  Beet. 

London  Blood-Beet  is  a  new  variety,  with  something  more 
than  a  name.  We  are  as  particular  at  our  table  in  discuss- 
ing the  qualities  of  vegetables  as  others  are  in  the  cut  or  the 
joint,  or  .the  peculiar  flavors  of  Port  or  Madeira,  and  we  feel 
assured  that  this  variety  of  the  Beet  is  more  delicate  in  flavor, 
more  brilliant  in  color,  and  of  as  good  a  form  as  any  other  sort. 

Silver  or  Sea- Kale  Beet  very  much  resembles  the  White  Beet, 
though  the  ribs'of  the  leaves  are  larger,  and,  when  cooked,  has 
much  of  the  flavor  of  sea-kale.  There  are  several  other  sorts 
which  come  more  under  the  notice  of  the  agriculturist,  such 
as  Sugar  Beet,  M angel- Wurtzel,  &c. 

Culture. — Little  art  is  requisite  for  the  culture  of  this  vege- 
table. One  grand  essential  for  an  early  crop  is  to  dig  deep 
and  manure  well.     Sow  as  soon  as  the  soil  will  admit  of  work- 


buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


ing,  after  tlie  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  ;  draw  drills  half  an 
inch  deep  and  eighteen  inches  apart ;  drop  the  seeds  therein 
about  three  inches  apart,  cover  them  lightly  and  rake  finely  ; 
if  the  ground  be  dry,  tread  or  roll  them  firmly.  Sow  a  light 
sprinkling  of  early  Radish  seed  before  raking.  They  will  be 
fit  for  pulling  before  the  Beets  are  ready  for  thinning,  which 
will  be  in  four  or  five  weeks.  As  soon  as  the  Beets  have  made 
a  few  leaves,  thin  them  out  to  six  inches  apart,  allowing  the 
strongest  plants  to  remain.  For  a  full  Winter  crop,  sow  the  Long 
Blood  or  London  Beet  at  any  time  from  the  20th  of  May 
till  the  20th  of  June.  These  will  keep  better  and  be  more 
tender  for  Winter  use  than  those  sown  earlier.  On  the  ap- 
proach of  frost,  about  the  end  of  October,  take  up  the  roots ; 
cut  the  leaves  off  within  two  inches  of  the  crown,  and  put  the 
roots  away  in  a  dry  cellar,  or  pack  them  in  barrels  with  dry 
sand,  and  keep  from  severe  frost.  Plant  out  early  in  Spring 
a  few  of  the  best  roots  for  seed ;  avoid  those  of  a  rough  or 
fibrous  nature. 


BORECOLE. 

Brdssica  olerdcea^  var. —  Chou  vert^  Fr. —  Grune  Kohl,  Ger. 

Borecole,  German  Greens,  or  Scotch  Kale,  is  a  very  delicate 
vegetable.  It  is  essential  to  its  perfection  that  it  be  fully 
acted  upon  by  frost  before  it  is  cut  for  the  kitchen.  There 
are  several  varieties  of  it.  The  parts  used  are  the  top  or  crown 
of  the  plant,  with  any  of  the  side  sprouts.  It  boils  well,  and  is 
tender  and  sweet.  The  tall  and  dwarf  curly  sorts  are  best 
adapted  for  garden  culture.  Sow  the  seed  in  April,  along  with 
other  Cabbage,  which  transplant  and  treat  in  the  same  manner 


BROCCOLI.  31 


,  BROCCOLI. 

Brdssica  olerd^ea,  var. — Broccoli,  Fr. — Italianische  Kohl,  Ger, 

Broccoli  is  a  variety  of  the  Cabbage  closely  related  to  the 
Cauliflower,  though  not  so  delicate  iu  flavor  as  that  vegetable. 
It  is  supposed  to  have  come  originally  from  the  island  of  Cy- 
press, and  was  cultivated  nearly  two  hundred  years  ago.  In  mild 
climates  it  is  extensively  used  from  JN'ovember  to  March,  the 
various  early  and  late  sorts  coming  to  maturity  in  the  very 
middle  of  Winter.  In  this  latitude  the  culture  is  confined  to 
Grange's  Early  White  and  the  Early  Purple  Cape.  In  their 
growth,  habit,  and  eatable  parts,  they  resemble  Cauliflower,  all  of 
them  forming  roundish  heads  in  tlie  centre  of  their  leaves, 
composed  entirely  of  a  compact  collection  of  numerous  buds 
or  tender  advancing  shoots. 

Grangers  Early  produces  large,  fine,  white,  compact  heads, 
of  a  conical  shape.  The  leaves  cover  the  heads  and  afibrd  pro- 
tection in  frosty  weather.  This  sort  is  so  much  like  Cauli- 
flower that  those  who  ought  to  be  judges  have  pronounced  it 
such,  though  the  leaves  and  flavor  are  entirely  different.  For  a 
good  crop,  sow  the  seed  early  in  April, 

Early  Purple  Cape  also  produces  large  sized  heads,  of  a 
reddish  brown  color  ;  when  genuine,  very  close  and  compact. 
It  is  rather  earlier  than  the  former,  and  more  hardy. 

The  Dwarf  Tartarian,  White  Malta,  and  Late  White  are 
fine  sorts  for  a  mild  climate.  They  will  be  in  use  the  whole  Win- 
ter. Sow  the  seeds  in  June,  and  transplant  in  July,  in  very 
rich  sandy  loam. 

Culture. — The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  April  and  May,  in 
rich  soil,  on  an  open  exposure,  where  the  plants  grow  much 
stronger  than  near  trees  or  fences.  Sow  the  seeds  tolerably 
thick  on  the  surface  ;  if  dry,  tramp  them  down  and  rake  in 
lightly ;  if  drought  continues,  give  the  beds  a  few  waterings 


32  buist's  fajmily  kitchen  gardener. 

till  the  plants  appear,  which  will  be  in  two  weeks.  Transplant 
in  June  or  July,  when  the  weather  is  moist,  in  rows  two  feet 
apart  and  twenty  inches  in  the  row.  If  the  weather  is  dry  when 
planted,  give  them  water  every  other  day  till  they  begin  to 
grow.  Their  further  culture  is  to  keep  them  clear  of  weeds  by 
hoeing  and  stiring  the  ground  ;  when  they  have  advanced  iu 
growth,  draw  some  earth  to  their  stems,  which  greatly  promotes 
their  luxuriance. 

They  commence  heading  in  October  and  continue  till  de- 
stroyed by  severe  frost.  The  heads  should  be  cut  while  they 
remain  close,  and  before  they  assume  a  seedy-like  appearance. 

I^^  this,  and  more  northern  latitudes,  it  is  necessary  to  put 
these  plants  into  a  shed  or  cellar,  to  have  them  during  Winter. 
Lift  them  carefully  before  severe  frost,  and  plant  them  in  earth. 
They  will  head  well  when  thus  treated,  but  south  of  Virginia 
this  vegetable  may  be  had  in  perfection  without  the  least  trou- 
ble, excepting  the  cultm*e.  The  seed  is  all  imported  from 
Europe. 


BRUSSELS    SPROUTS. 

Brdssica  olerdcea,  var. —  Chou  de  Bruzelles,  Fr. — Sprossen. 
Kohl,  Grer. 

This  variety  of  the  Cabbage  is  supposed  to  have  originated 
from  the  Savoy.  It  is  a  celebrated  vegetable  in  Europe,  espe- 
cially near  Bruxelles  and  other  large  towns  in  Flanders,  where, 
from  October  to  April,  it  is  an  every-day  dish  on  the  table  of 
both  the  rich  and  the  poor.  Till  recently  very  little  attention 
has  been  given  to  it  in  this  country. 

Culture. — Sow  the  seed  in  April,  and  transplant  in  June, 
or  July,  in  the  same  manner  as  Broccoli.  The  leaves  of  the 
plant  are  similar  to  the  Savoy,  crowning  a  stem  about  two  feet 
high,  from  which  grow  out  numerous  little  cabbages  of  from 


BURNET.  33 


one  to  two  inches  in  diameter.  After  the  sprouts  have  been 
frosted  (which  is  necessary  to  their  perfection)  they  may  be 
gathered.  Immerse  them  in  clear  water  for  an  hour,  and  cleanse 
them  from  dust  and  insects  ;  then  boil  them  quickly  for  about 
twenty  minutes,  using  plenty  of  water.  When  soft,  take  them 
up  and  drain  them  well.  They  are  then  to  be  put  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  cream,  or  with  a  little  butter  thickened  with  flour, 
and  seasoned  to  taste,  stirring  them  thoroughly.  They  may 
be  served  up  to  table  with  tomato  sauce,  which  greatly  height- 
ens their  flavor  :  or  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  eaten 
with  any  sort  of  meat.  As  this  vegetable  is  comparatively 
little  known,  I  have  made  these  observations  with  a  view  of 
encouraging  its  culture.  Plants  for  seed  should  have  their 
tops  cut  ofi",  and  the  little  cabbages  allowed  to  shoot,  from  which 
the  seed  is  more  perfect.  It  will  keep  fresh  and  sound  in  a 
dry  place  three  years,  but  when  grown  for  that  object  should 
not  be  near  any  other  sort  of  Cabbage. 


BURNET. 

Poterium  Sanguisorba — Petite  Pimprenelle,  Fr. — Pimper- 
nelle^  Grer. 

BuKNET  is  a  hardy  perennial  plant.  The  parts  made  use  of 
are  the  young  leaves,  which  are  put  into  salads,  and  by  the 
French  very  frequently  into  soups,  to  which  it  gives  a  pleasant 
and  warm  taste. 

Culture. — Seed  may  be  sown  early  in  Spring,  in  a  row, 
where  they  are  to  remain.  Twenty  plants  will  be  sufficient 
for  any  family.  They  are  also  propagated  by  dividing  the 
roots,  and  as  the  young  luxuriant  leaves  are  preferable,  the 
plants  should  be  manured  every  year,  and  renewed  every  three 
or  four  years. 


34  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


CABBAGE. 

JBrdssica  olerdcea,  var. —  Chou  pomme,  Fr. —  Weiss  KopJ- 
kohL  Ger, 

The  Cabbage  is  one  of  tbe  most  ancient  and  esteemed  vege- 
tables, and  as  an  esculent  it  stands  in  the  highest  estimation. 
The  name  is  applied  to  the  firm  head  or  ball  that  is  formed  by 
the  leaves  folding  close  over  each  other.  Like  all  other  culti- 
vated plants,  the  Cabbage  has  undergone  so  many  changes  and 
assumed  so  many  varieties  that  it  is  not  easy  to  give  a  descrip- 
tion that  will  apply  to  the  whole.  Without  exaggeration, 
many  of  the  sorts  are  as  far  superior  to  others  in  flavor  as 
cream  is  to  sour  milk,  yet  we  continue  to  grow,  year  after  year, 
the  same  varieties  ;  some  of  which  are  so  rank  and  strong  that 
they  are  only  fit  for  the  cattle-yard  or  cow-shed,  to  the  neglect 
of  others  which  are  not  only  tender  and  delicious  to  the  taste, 
but  are  truly  agreeable  to  the  olfactory  organs.  "The  principal 
varieties  in  cultivation  are  the  following. 

Early  York. — This  is  a  valuable  early  variety,  which  has  been 
cultivated  upwards  of  one  hundred  years.  Its  earliness,  and 
delicate  taste  and  flavor,  keeps  it  in  estimation.  The  heads  are 
small,  round,  slightly  heart-shaped,  and  very  firm.  From  its  very 
dwarf  growth,  a  great  many  can  be  planted  in  a  small  space. 
Kows  one  foot  apart,  and  eight  inches  from  plant  to  plant. 

Large  York.  A  variety  of  the  former,  of  larger  growth,  and 
fully  two  weeks  later.  It  is  the  variety  cultivated  extensively 
for  the  markets  about  Philadelphia. 

Late  York  is  another  variety,  improved  in  size,  but  infe- 
rior in  flavor,  and  is,  under  the  same  culture,  three  weeks  later 
than  the  Early  York. 

Early  Nonpareil  is  one  of  the  best  sorts  in  cultivation. 
It  heads  freely,  and  is  of  a  good  size,  and  very  delicate  flavor. 

Early  Vanack  is  another  sweet  and  delicately  flavored  vari- 


CABBAGE.  35 


ety ;  in  shape  very  similar  to  the  Early  York,  though  larger,  and 
a  little  later.  The  flavor  is  equal,  if  not  superior  to  that  uni- 
versally esteemed  sort. 

Early  Batter  sea  is  a  roundish,  oval-headed  variety.  It 
is  most  excellent  while  young,  before  it  becomes  hard,  and 
continues  a  considerable  time  in  use.  It  is  well  adapted  for 
cottage  culture. 

Early  Sugar-Loaf  is  a  very  distinct  sort.  The  heads  are 
perfectly  conical,  the  leaves  erect  and  spoon-shaped.  The  heads 
are  not  so  firm  as  those  already  noticed,  but,  unless  for  variety, 
it  is  not  desirable,  as  the  hot  weather  destroys  its  quality. 

Early  Dutch  is  a  variety  that  connects  the  more  early  sorts 
with  the  Drumhead.  Spring-sown  seed  will  be  fit  to  cut  in 
August  and  September,  and  for  the  table  is  the  only  desirable 
variety  of  the  late  sorts. 

Flat  Butcli^  or  Drumhead. — Hundreds  of  acres  of  this  Cab- 
bage are  cultivated  in  this  vicinity  for  city  use  and  shipping 
to  southern  ports.  They  are  sold  at  about  $2,50  per  100.  It 
is  a  large  spreading  Cabbage,  generally  very  broad  and  flat  at 
the  top ;  of  a  close  and  firm  nature.  It  comes  to  perfection 
about  the  middle  of  September,  and  will  continue  till  January. 
Seed  sown  in  May  will  come  into  use  in  October  and  continue 
till  FebruaFy. 

Bergen  is  also  a  Drumhead  variety,  larger  and  coarser  than 
the  former.  It  is  most  eligible  for  feeding  cattle  or  making 
sauer  kraut. 

Savoy  Cabbage. — There  are  four  varieties  of  this  Cabbage, 
but  the  Curled  and  Drumhead  will  sufiice  for  our  purpose.  The 
Curled  Savoy  is  a  delightful  Winter  vegetable,  improved  in 
flavor  by  a  considerable  frost.  It  does  not  head  firm,  but  the 
whole  of  the  head  is  fit  for  the  kitchen.  Drumhead  Savoy 
grows  to  a  large  size,  nearly  round,  and  a  little  flattened  at 
the  top.  It  is  the  principal  sort  for  the  market ;  like  large 
cabbages  it  fills  the  eye,  but  the  Curled  is  the  best  for  family 
use  :  it  pleases  the  taste. 


36  BUI&'T'S    FAMILY    KITCHEN    GARFEPfER. 

Red  Dutch. — This  sort  is  esteemed  principally  as  a  choice 
pickle,  and  is  sometimes  sliced  in  salad.  In  its  raw  state  it 
is  of  middle  size,  heart-shaped,  heading  very  hard,  and  the 
whole  of  a  red,  purplish  color.  The  darker  the  color,  and  the 
more  thick  and  fleshy  the  leaves,  without  any  white  in  the 
ribs  and  veins,  the  more  valuable.  It  is  in  perfection  from 
October  till  Christmas. 

All  these  sorts  of  Cabbage  are  biennial,  being  raised  from 
seed  and  attaining  perfection  the  first  year  ;  and  in  the  second 
&hooting  up  the  stalk,  to  flower  and  seed,  after  which  they 
wholly  perish. 

To  SAVE  FOR  Seed. — Onthe  approach  of  Winter  bury  the 
roots  and  stems  with  a  part  of  the  Cabbage,  slantingly,  in  the 
ground,  and  in  severe  weather  cover  the  heads  lightly  with 
straw.  Y/hen  Spring  comes  uncover  them,  and,  as  the  stems 
grow,  tie  them  up  to  prevent  their  being  destroyed  by  the 
wind.  The  seed  will  ripen  in  June  or  July.  Clean  it,  and 
put  away  in  a  dry  place  for  use.  If  two  varieties  of  the  Bras- 
sica  tribe  are  saved  for  seed  in  the  same  year,  they  should  be 
in  the  extreme  parts  of  the  garden,  or  they  will  undoubtedly 
mix  and  degenerate. 

Culture. — Fortunately  the  Cabbage  can  be  cultivated  by 
the  most  simple  and  easy  means.  It  grows  in  most  soils  and 
produces  its  beneficial  heads  nine  months  in  the  year.  The 
ground  must  be  rich,  or  made  so  by  a  good  coat  of  manure,  as 
they  have  strong  tapering  roots.  Digging  or  plowing  deep  is 
very  essential.  Indeed,  this  is  too  much  neglected  in  the  cul- 
ture of  all  culinary  crops. 

To  produce  a  constant  succession  of  Cabbages,  three  princi- 
pal sowings  are  necessary.  For  the  early  Spring  and  Summer 
crops,  sow  the  seeds  of  the  York,  Nonpareil,  Battersea  and 
Vanack  from  the  12th  to  the  25th  of  September  ;  each  sort 
separately,  on  a  bed  of  light,  rich  earth.     Sow  moderately 


CABBAGE.  37 


thick,  broad-cast,  or  over  the  ground,  if  the  weather  be  dry. 
Tramp  in  the  seed  with  the  feet ;  rake  evenly  and  smoothly, 
and  finish  by  giving  the  beds  a  gentle  beat  with  the  back  of 
the  spade.  If  drought  continues,  water  them  a  few  times,  and 
they  will  be  up  in  eight  or  ten  days.  Towards  the  end  of 
October,  the  strongest  plants  of  this  sowing  will  be  fit  to  plant 
out.  Prepare  some  rich,  well-dug  ground  ;  draw  deep  drills,, 
eighteen  inches  apart,  and  dibble  the  plants  one  foot  apart  in 
the  row,  on  the  south  or  east  side  of  the  drills,  so  as  the  plants 
may  have  all  the  benefit  of  the  Winter  suns,  and  be  sheltered 
by  the  tops  of  the  drills  from  the  north  and  north-west  winds. 
After  the  frost  sets  in  severely,  lay  straw  thinly  across  the 
drills,  which  will  fully  protect  the  plants.  On  the  approach 
of  Spring,  remove  it ;  these  plants  will  be  ready  for  cutting 
eight  or  ten  days  earlier  than  those  that  have  been  kept  in 
frames  all  Winter.  The  balance  of  the  plants  for  the  main 
crop  must  be  protected  in  a  cold  frame,  covered  with  boards 
or  shutters,  removable  at  pleasure.  It  may  be  made  by  any 
person,  merely  taking  a  few  boards  about  one  foot  wide  ;  stretch 
them  along  in  any  sheltered  situation,  to  the  extent  that  will 
hold  the  required  plants  of  Cabbages  and  Lettuces  (say  twenty 
feet  long  and  six  feet  wide,  which  will  hold  four  thousand 
plants,  which,  after  allowing  a  considerable  portion  for  failing, 
will  be  enough  for  a  large  family).  Sink  in  the  ground  short 
posts  of  cedar  or  locust  at  back  and  front,  and  nail  firmly  there- 
to sound  boards  of  oak  or  pine,  the  board  at  the  back  one  foot 
high,  the  one  on  the  front  six  inches  ;  this,  when  covered, 
will  allow  the  rain  to  run  off.  Throw  up  the  earth  close  round 
the  outside  of  the  frame,  to  keep  the  water  from  entering  under 
the  boards  or  among  the  plants.  If  they  are  kept  wet  during 
Winter  they  will  die  off,  or  what  gardeners  call  "damp  off." 
In  fact,  the  dryer  they  are  kept  the  more  safe  they  will  be. 
Give  air  in  all  clear  weather  during  Winter.  In  severe  frost 
they  should  remain  covered  all  day,  but  expose  them  fully  in 
mild  weather.     Take  care  that  mice  do  not  prey  upon  them. 


38  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

If  they  do,  take  as  much  arsenic  as  will  lie  on  a  ten  cent  piece, 
mix  it  with  a  table-spoonful  of  Indian  meal,  and  lay  it  on  a 
piece  of  tile  or  board  in  the  frame,  where  it  will  be  dry,  which 
will  soon  destroy  them.  Early  in  Spring,  transplant  to  the  com- 
partments of  the  garden  designed  for  them.  Lift  the  plants 
carefully  with  a  trowel,  retaining  as  many  fibres  and  soil  as 
possible.  The  plants  should  all  be  assorted,  planting  the 
strongest  where  the  crop  is  expected  to  be  earliest,  so  that 
all  may  come  to  maturity  regularly.  In  their  subsequent 
growth,  if  any  fail  or  run  to  seed,  supply  the  deficiencies  with 
fresh  plants.  As  the  crop  progresses,  hoe  frequently  and  deep ; 
destroy  every  weed,  and  as  the  plants  grow,  draw  earth  round 
the  stems,  which  will  strengthen  and  forward  them.  The 
large  Late  Yorks  require  the  same  care  and  treatment.  They 
will  mature  in  succession,  according  to  the  lateness  of  the  sort. 
Where  a  supply  of  plants  has  not  been  obtained  in  the  Fall, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  sow  seed  on  a  hot-bed  about  the  middle 
of  February — for  Jhe  management  of  which  see  the  article 
Cucumber — only  the  hot-bed  will  not  require  to  be  so  strong, 
and  a  greater  portion  of  air  admitted  to  the  frame  in  sunshine, 
and  even  a  small  portion  at  night  when  there  is  no  frost,  grad- 
ually hardening  them  as  they  grow,  till  they  become  fit  for 
planting  out,  which  will  be  about  the  end  of  March  or  first  of 
April.  I  have  seen,  however,  where  the  garden  depended  up- 
on the  exertions  of  the  cook,  or  the  dexterous  management  of  the 
housewife,  a  good  crop  of  early  Cabbage  plants  grown  in  the 
kitchen  window.  It  is  a  lamentable  fact  that  many  of  our 
otherwise  industrious  farmers  would  have  no  vegetables  were 
it  not  for  the  exertions  of  the  female  portion  of  the  family. 
The  health  and  comfort  of  a  family  would  be  greatly  enhanced 
by  giving  a  full  portion  of  attention  to  the  manuring  and  crop- 
ing  of  a  vegetable  garden.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  in  this 
country,  that  every  farmer  should  be  a  gardener,  and  every 
gardener  a  farmer. 

For  the  late  Summer,  FaJ,  and  Winter  supply,  sow  the  seed 


CABBAGE.  o9 


from  the  first  of  April  to  the  first  of  May,  as  directed  for  the 
September  sowing.  The  sorts  are  Early  Dutch,  Drumhead, 
Bergen,  Savoys,  and  Red  Dutch ;  sow  also  a  few  large  York. 
They  will  come  in  July  or  August,  and  be  found  useful  for 
filling  up  vacant  ground  or  patching.  Transplanting  may  be 
in  May,  June,  and  July,  as  circumstances  will  admit.  When 
planting  out  in  Summer,  as  the  weather  is  frequently  very 
dry  and  hot,  the  ground  should  be  fresh  dug,  the  plants  care- 
fully lifted  (having  given  them  a  copious  watering  the  evening 
previous),  and  their  roots  dipped  into  a  puddle  or  mush  of 
cow  dung,  soot,  or  earth,  before  planting  ;  then  dibble  them  in 
firmly,  give  a  good  watering,  and  a  certain  growth  will  follow. 
The  rows  may  be  two  feet  apart,  and  eighteen  inches  from 
plant  to  plant.  The  after  culture  the  same  as  directed  for 
early  Cabbage.  When  Cabbage  heads  have  been  cut,  the 
stumps  should  be  dug  up  every  week  and  deposited  in  the 
rubbish  heap.  It  is  waste  to  allow  them  to  sprout  and  grow, 
or  decay  and  evaporate  in  the  air.  Some  seasons,  the  fly  (a 
small  black  beetle)  destroys  the  plants  as  soon  as  they  appear 
above  the  ground.  Soot,  air-slacked  lime,  and  wood  ashes 
sprinkled  over  them,  is  in  part  a  preventive.  Others  destroy 
them  by  having  a  hen  cooped,  allowing  the  young  chickens  to 
have  free  access  to  the  plants,  from  which  they  exterminate 
the  flies.  I  invariably  grow  my  scarce  seed  in  boxes  elevated 
eighteen  inches  above  the  ground,  entirely  out  of  the  Teach  of 
this  insect,  which  does  not  appear  on  elevated  objects.  This 
operation  requires  more  attention  in  watering,  but  a  certainty 
is  always  gained  by  it. 

Wintering  Cabbage. — If  you  have  not  a  dry,  airy,  vegeta- 
ble cellar,  nor  an  open  shed  to  spare  for  burying  them,  take  a 
sheltered  part  of  the  garden  and  bury  the  roots,  stalk,  and 
part  of  the  head  in  the  earth,  over  which,  in  severe  weather, 
place  a  few  boards,  or  a  light  sprinkling  of  straw.  In  Southern 
latitudes  this  is  unnecessary ;  there  they  can  withstand  the 


40  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

climate.  Coleworts,  a  small  kind  of  Cabbage,  of  a  very  tender 
nature  and  delicate  flavor,  can  be  successfully  cultivated  as 
directed  for  early  Cabbage.  Where  the  Winters  are  not  se- 
vere, they,  with  Broccoli  and  Brussels  sprouts,  can  be  had  for 
use  the  whole  season. 


CARDOON. 

Cy'nara  Cardunculus. —  Cardon^  Fr. — Kardonen^  Ger. 
The  Cardoon  is  somewhat  like  the  Artichoke,  but  rises  to  a 
greater  height,  and,  with  it,  may  be  classed  as  one  of  the  fan- 
ciful vegetables,  grown  exclusively  for  the  name,  or  to  please 
the  fancy  of  some  professed  epicure.  At  least  it  has  but  little 
nutriment ;  the  tender  stalks,  after  being  blanched,  are  either 
stewed  or  put  in  soups  or  salads  during  Autumn  and  Win4;er. 

Culture. — This  is  easily  accomplished,  by  sowing  the  seeds 
about  the  middle  of  Spring,  where  they  are  to  remain.  They 
succeed  in  soils  of  a  sandy  loam,  inclining  to  moisture,  well 
enriched  by  manure.  Plant  the  seeds  in  a  row  six  inches 
apart  and  one  inch  deep.  When  they  come  up,  thin  them  out 
to  one  foot  apart,  as  they  require  room  to  grow  four  feet  wide 
and  five  feet  high.  Keep  clean  from  weeds,  hoe  deep  and  fre- 
quently. About  the  beginning  of  October,  when  the  plants 
have  attained  their  full  size,  they  should  be  prepared  for 
blanching ;  choose  a  dry  day,  and  tie  the  leaves  of  the  plant 
carefully  and  lightly  together  with  matting  or  small  hay-bands, 
previously  removing  all  the  damaged  or  decayed  ones ;  keep- 
ing the  whole  upright,  binding  the  plant  closely  round  with 
twisted  straw  or  hay-bands,  from  the  root  to  about  two-thirds  of 
its  height,  covering  it  so  as  to  prevent  the  earth  from  coming 
in  contact  with  the  ribs  of  the  leaves ;  then  earth  them  up  the 
height  of  the  bands,  as  directed  for  Celery.  In  three  weeks 
they  will  be  sufiiciently  blanched  for  use,  when  they  may  be 
taken  up  as  wanted.  In  severe  weather  protect  them  as  di- 
rected for  Celery. 


CARROT.  41 


^  CARROT. 

Daucus  Carota. —  Caroite,  Fr. — Mohre,  Ger. 

"  The  Carrot,"  says  an  eminent  physician,  "  is  a  most  whole- 
some culinary  root;  it  strengthens  and  nourishes  the  body, 
and  is  very  beneficial  for  consumptive  persons."  Carrots  are 
generally  served  to  table  boiled,  with  meats ;  they  make  an 
excellent  ingredient  in  soup,  and  form  an  agreeable  pudding. 
As  an  agricultural  root,  they  are  not  surpassed  for  feeding 
cattle.  Horses  will  do  more  work  and  look  better  on  them 
than  on  any  other  feed.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  intro- 
duced into  Europe  from  the  island  of  Crete,  since  which  they 
have  been  greatly  improved.  The  following  are  the  leading 
varieties  cultivated  for  supplying  the  kitchen  regularly  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year. 

Early  Horn  is  the  most  forward  in  ripening,  and  the  best 
adapted  for  early  crops,  and  in  my  opinion  the  best  adapted 
for  any  crop.  Although  they  are  shorter  than  the  other  sorts, 
they  require  a  less  depth  of  soil,  and  can  be  grown  much  closer 
together.  Its  peculiar  character  is,  the  tap-root  drawing  ab- 
ruptly off  to  a  point.  It  is  higher  colored  when  pure,  and 
sweeter  in  taste  than  the  other  varieties,  and  can  be  sown  as 
late  as  the  20th  of  July.  I  have  this  year  a  very  excellent 
crop  sown  on  the  28th  of  July,  after  the  Onion  crop  was  taken 
from  the  ground. 

Long  Orange  is  the  sort  generally  grown  for  a  Winter  crop. 
It  is  paler  in  color  than  the  former,  and  grows  to  a  great 
length,  frequently  two  feet  long. 

Altringham  is  a  bright  red  variety,  peculiar  in  having  from 
one  to  two  inches  of  the  top  above  ground.  I  consider  this  in 
flavor  next  to  the  Early  Horn.  It  is  excellent  for  a  general 
«rop,  being  a  fine  keeper  for  Winter  use. 

Long  Surrey. — This  variety  is  but  imperfectly  known  here 


.   42  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


It  is  like  tbe  Long  Orange,  but  of  a  brighter  color.  In  soil 
of  a  deep  sandy  loam,  it  produces  a  heavy  crop,  and  is  very 
suitable  for  the  Farm. 

Long  White  is  much  cultivated  by  the  French  for  season- 
ing and  for  soups.   On  light,  deep  soils,  it  produces  a  heavy  crop. 

Culture. — In  the  culture  of  this  excellent  vegetable,  a  deep, 
light,  rich,  sandy  soil,  well  manured,  should  if  possible  be  em- 
ployed. If  the  ground  is  not  of  this  quality  in  the  preceding 
year,  it  should  be  dug  deep,  and  well  broken.  If  this  is  not 
done,  the  roots  fork  or  spread  in  a  lateral  direction,  injuring 
both  their  size  and  quality.  It  is  very  important  to  -  have  an 
early  crop,  for  such  the  Horn  sort  only  should  be  used.  Sow 
on  a  warm  border,  as  early  as  the  season  will  admit.  In  sow- 
ing, a  calm  day  should  be  preferred,  as  the  seeds  are  very  light  , 
they  also  bundle  together,  and  should  be  rubbed  between  the 
hands  in  dry  sand  or  earth,  to  separate  them.  The  preferable 
way  of  sowing,  is  in  shallow  di'ills,  half  an  inch  deep,  and  nine 
to  twelve  inches  apart,  which  admits  of  the  hoe  being  made 
use  of  in  thinning  out  the  crop,  and  clearing  off  the  weeds. 
As  soon  as  the  plants  are  up,  and  can  be  easily  observed, 
take  a  hoe  of  three  or  four  inches  broad,  and  thin  out  the  crop 
to  three  or  four  inches  apart.  The  main  crop  intended  for 
large  roots,  should  be  thinned  to  six  inches  apart.  Frequent 
hoeing  and  stirring  the  soil,  whether  there  are  weeds  to  destroy 
or  not,  is  very  essential  to  the  growth  of  the  roots.  From  the 
first  of  May  to  the  first  of  June,  is  the  period  to  sow  for  a 
general  crop,  which  will  be  ready  to  house  about  the  first  of 
November.  As  soon  as  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow,  the 
roots  can  be  taken  up  in  a  dry  day.  Cut  the  tops  off  about  an 
inch  from  the  crown,  and  pack  the  roots  in  dry  earth  or  sand^ 
in  the  cellar,  for  Winter  use ;  or  they  may  be  pitted  out  of  doors, 
covered  with  two  inches  of  straw  and  a  foot  of  earth,  to  keep 
them  from  frost,  when  they  can  be  in  use  till  the  following 
April. — Beets  may  be  kept  in  the  same  manner. 


CAULIFLOWER.  43 


CAULIFLOWER. 

Brdssica  olerdcca^  var. —  Chou-fleur^  Fr. — Blumejikohl,  Ger. 

This  very  delicate  vegetable  was  first  introduced  into  England 
from  tlie  island  of  Cypress,  about  a  century  and  a  half  ago. 
Since  tlieu  it  has  been  greatly  improved  by  the  skill  of  the 
gardener.  We  are  inclined  to  believe  that  there  are  only  two 
varieties  of  the  Cauliflower,  though  there  are  several  sorts  sold 
iu  the  seed-shops.  The  early  and  the  late  are  the  two,  and 
even  these  have  frequently  very  little  distinctive  character,  where 
they  are  under  the  same  culture ;  and  it  is  somewhat  curious  that 
the  Dutch  prefer  the  English  seed,  and  the  English  prefer  the 
Dutch,  ^ye  have  therefore  to  import  the  seeds  from  both 
countries  every  year,  to  meet  the  ideas  of  the  purchasers. 

Culture. — The  proper  seasons  for  sowing  the  seeds  are,  for 
the  early  Spring  or  Summer  crop,  between  the  eighth  and 
twentieth  of  September ;  and  for  the  late  Autumn  crop,  about 
the  first  of  April.  The  plants,  as  soon  as  they  are  two  inches 
high,  should  be  planted  out  in  a  bed  of  rich,  light  earth,  three 
inches  apart  each  way,  so  as  to  grow  firm  and  stocky  to  remove 
to  their  final  place  of  growth. 

For  the  purpose  of  growing  them  in  perfection,  a  bed  of  the 
richest  light  earth,  two  feet  deep,  and  one-third  of  it  well  de- 
composed manure,  ip  an  open  exposure,  sheltered  from  the 
north-west,  is  requisite — the  whole  to  be  surrounded  with  a 
close  frame,  and  covered  with  glass  or  shutters.  It  may  be 
prepared  about  the  first  of  October,  to  receive  the  plants  after 
the  ground  has  fully  settled,  which  will  take  two  weeks.  Lift 
the  plants  carefully  with  a  trowel  from  where  they  were  trans- 
planted, and  plant  them  eighteen  inches  apart  each  way,  into 
the  pit  or  frame  prepared  for  them.  Give  a  gentle  watering 
to  the  soil  round  the  plant ;  press  it  down  firmly,  and  little  or 


44'  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

no  more  water  will  be  required  till  the  Spring.  Between  each 
of  these,  plant  a  Lettuce  of  the  early  Butter  or  Royal  Cabbage 
sorts,  that  will  head  in  February  and  March,  and  be  used  before 
the  Cauliflower  makes  much  leaf  to  cover  the  ground.  It  will 
be  necessary  to  surround  the  frame  with  dry  litter  to  keep  out 
the  frost,  and  to  cover  the  glass  or  shutters  with  dry  straw  or 
mats  in  time  of  severe  weather,  observing  to  give  plenty  of 
air,  in  clear,  mild  days,  to  prevent  the  plants  from  drawing  or 
damping  off  at  the  neck.  With  such  treatment  we  have  seen 
Cauliflowers  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  and  nearly  as  white  as 
snow.  When  they  are  in  a  growing  state,  they  should  never 
suffer  with  drought.  Allow  a  copious  supply  of  water — if  en- 
riched, so  much  the  better.  Soap-suds  is  an  excellent  nutri- 
tive for  the  growth  of  vegetables.  In  the  Southern  States  very 
little  protection  is  required.  Surround  the  roots  with  dry  litter, 
and  cover  the  plants  in  severe  nights  with  mats  or  branches 
of  evergreens.  Be  careful  to  supply  moisture  whenever  the 
plants  demand  it,  which  is  readily  observed  by  the  drooping,  of 
the  leaves. 

As  many  of  my  readers  may  not  have  seen  a  Cauliflower,  nor 
know  from  the  above  what  it  looks  like,  to  such  we  say,  it  is  a 
kind  of  Cabbage  that  produces  within  its  long,  pale-green  leaves, 
a  white  head,  very  similar  to  a  basin  rounded  full  of  the  curd 
which  is  commonly  called  Cottage  Cheese.  This  is  about  as 
plain  a  description  of  the  appearance  of  this  vegetable  as  we 
can  give.  In  cutting  Cauliflowers,  the  head  should  be  cut  off 
with  some  inches  of  the  stalk,  together  with  most  of  the  sur- 
rounding leaves,  which  should  be  trimmed  down  nearly  to  the 
circumference  of  the  head,  when  for  present  use  ;  but  the 
leaves  of  those  required  to  be  kept  a  few  days,  or  intended  for 
market,  should  be  retained  in  their  full  length.  If  the  flowers 
are  opening  more  rapidly  than  demand  requires,  they  can  be, 
retarded  a  few  days,  by  folding  the  leaves  over  the  heads.  By 
this  process,  the  flower  is  kept  of  a  purer  white,  being  defended 
^rom  the  sun. 


CELEP^Y.  45 


CELERY. 

A'pium  graveolens. —  Celeri,  Fr. — Selkrie,  Ger. 

The  Celery  is  a  native  of  Britain,  and  is  found  in  marshy 
ground,  ditches,  and  such  situations.  In  its  wild  state,  it  has 
a  rank,  coarse  taste.  The  effect  of  cultivation  is  remarkably 
displayed  in  producing  the  sweet,  crisp,  mild,  stalk  of  Celery, 
generally  very  palatable  to  all,  from  a  wild,  detestable,  and  ap- 
parently worthless  weed. 

This  vegetable  is  yearly  gaining  repute,  and  is  cultivated  to 
a  great  extent,  though  in  our  market  far  from  being  in  perfec- 
tion. 

Use. — The  leaf-stalks,  when  blanched,  are  used  raw  as  a 
salad  ;  they  are  also  stewed,  and  used  for  seasoning  soups  ;  an 
agreeable  conserve  can  also  be  made  from  the  stalks  when  per- 
fectly blanched. 

There  are  several  sorts  in  cultivation,  but  they  may  be  set 
aside  to  give  place  to  the  two  following  : — 

White  iSo/i(i,  which  is  most  generally  prefered,  on  account  of 
the  color,  and  is  considered  by  some  as  the  most  crisp  ;  and 

Red  Solid,  which  differs  from  the  former  only  in  color,  though 
it  withstands  the  frost  better  than  the  White,  showing,  at  least, 
that  there  is  a  constitutional  difference.  Manchester  Red  is 
another  name  for  this  variety.  There  are  also  sorts  sold  as 
Giant  Red  and  Griant  White,  Seymour's  Red  and  Seymour's 
White,  all  corresponding  with  the  varieties  known  as  the  Red 
and  White  Solid  Celery.  There  is  another  variety  known  as 
the  Lion's-Paw  Celery,  pure  white,  but  in  our  opinion  inferior 
to  the  White  Solid.  As  for  giant  sorts,  they  are  attained 
purely  by  culture,  and  astonishingly  so  too.  Seed  from  the 
same  plant,  in  the  hands  of  some  growers,  will  produce  stalks 
four  feet  long,  blanched  to  a  silvery  whiteness  ;  with  others,  a 
meagre  stalk  of  a  few  inches  high,  with  its  base  of  a  dirty 


46  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

rusty,  greenisli-wliite — which,  of  course,  will  be  pronounced  an 
inferior  sort,  and  the  blame  attached  to  the  seed. 

Culture. — To  procure  early  Celery,  the  seed  should  be  sown 
on  a  gentle  hot-bed,  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  March. 
Collect  a  load  or  two  of  warm  horse-manure.  Put  it  in  a 
form  eighteen  inches  thick,  to  be  covered  with  a  frame  and  glass 
sash.  When  the  violent  heat  has  subsided,  cover  it  with  six 
inches  of  light  soil,  whereon  sow  your  seed.  Press  it  down, 
and  rake  it  lightly,  giving  a  gentle  watering.  Put  on  the  glasses  ; 
shade  from  severe  sun  ;  give  a  little  air  from  11  to  2  o'clock  ; 
and  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  up,  air  freely.  Thin  them  out  to 
half  an  inch  apart.  When  they  are  three  inches  high,  plant 
them  out  into  a  well-prepared  bed  of  rich,  light  soil,  which 
will  be  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  April — cover  at 
night  with  mats  or  boards,  to  protect  from  cold  or  frost.  By 
the  first  of  June,  they  will  be  sufficiently  strong  to  plant  out 
in  trenches  for  blanching.  However,  where  extreme  earliness 
is  not  an  object,  sow  the  seed  about  the  first  of  April,  on  a  rich, 
dry,  warm  border  ;  when  up,  thin  them  out.  About  the  mid- 
dle of  May,  transplant  them,  three  or  four  inches  apart,  into 
another  piece  of  ground,  to  stock  and  harden,  till  they  are 
finally  planted  into  the  rows  for  permanent  culture. 

The  regular  way  is  to  select  a  level  and  rich  piece  of  ground  ; 
dig  the  trenches  a  foot  wide,  ten  inches  deep,  and  three  feet 
from  each  other ;  if  convenient,  from  north  to  south,  though 
any  other  aspect  will  do.  Let  the  earth  be  regularly  thrown 
out  on  each  side  of  the  trench,  and  sloped  off.  Five  or  six 
inches  of  well  decomposed  manure  should  then  be  worked  full 
half-spade  deep  into  the  bottom  of  each  trench.  The  plants 
which  were  transplanted  into  the  beds  or  frame  should  be 
carefully  lifted,  and  prepared  for  planting,  which  is  done  by 
cutting  off  the  extremity  of  the  roots ;  shortening  their  tops 
or  leaves,  but  not  so  low  as  to  injure  the  young  centre  leaves  ; 
and  divesting  the  neck  of  the  plant  from  suckers.     This  done. 


CELERY.  47 

they  may  be  planted  into  the  trenches,  at  the  distance  of  four 
or  five  inches  apart ;  after  which,  give  the  whole  a  good  soak- 
ing of  water,  and  shade  from  the  sun  for  a  few  days.  Their 
after-culture,  is  to  stir  the  soil  frequently,  with  a  small  hoe, 
and  giving  a  copious  supi3ly  of  water  in  continued  dry  weather. 
About  the  middle  of  August,  or  first  of  September,  tie  the 
leaves  together,  or  hold  them  tight  with  one  hand,  while  with 
the  other  the  earth  is  carefully  drawn  up  round  the  stems,  but 
not  so  high  as  to  allow  the  earth  to  get  into  the  centre  ,of  the 
plant,  which  causes  it  to  rot  or  rust.  The  soil  for  this  purpose 
has  to  be  broken,  and  well  pulverized  with  the  spade.  If  the 
weather  be  dry  and  hot,  Celery  should  not  be  earthed  up  so 
early :  in  such  case,  a  row  for  early  use  may  be  blanched,  by 
placing  a  board  on  each  side,  and  throwing  the  earth  along  the 
bottom  edge  of  the  board,  to  prevent  the  air  from  getting  under. 
By  this  means  it  can  be  very  well  blanched,  and  ready  for  the 
table  by  the  middle  of  September.  I  am  aware  that  writers 
on  the  subject  say,  "earth  it  up  every  few  days  as  it  continues 
to  grow;"  but  with  such  a  practice  in  warm  weather,  it  will  not 
grow  long,  but  rot  off  and  decay.  About  the  first  of  October, 
earthing  up  may  proceed  without  injury ;  but  let  it  be  done 
firmly  and  evenly,  and  in  a  sloping  direction,  from  the  base  to 
nearly  the  top  of  the  leaves.  In  that  state,  it  will  remain  sound 
for  a  long  time.  If  continued  frost  be  apprehended,  dry  litter 
should  be  spread  over  the  plants,  and  a  quantity  lifted  and  laid 
in  a  bed  of  sand  or  earth  in  the  vegetable  cellar,  in  which  it 
will  keep  fresh  for  several  weeks. 

When  planting,  it  is  a  very  convenient  method  to  mix  both 
Red  and  White  together :  you  will  thus  obtain  both  sorts  in  use, 
from  the  opening  of  one  trench.  Large  fields  of  Celery  can  be 
pretty  successfully  cultivated  with  the  plough,  for  supplying 
the  market.  It  is  a  crop  that  generally  makes  a  good  return 
to  the  grower. 


43  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

Celeriac.  or  Turnip-Rooted  Celery^  is  occasionally  cultivated 
for  its  seasoning  qualities,  and  when  well  boiled  is  used  at  the 
table.  Culture,  same  as  Cabbage.  When  the  roots  have  ac- 
quired a  tolerable  size,  draw  the  earth  to  each  side  of  the  row, 
three  or  four  inches  high,  which  will  render  them  white  and 
tender,  particularly  so  in  moist  weather  (the  whole  of  this 
family  being  partial  to  moisture).  In  from  four  to  six  weeks 
after  being  earthed  up,  they  will  be  in  good  order  for  use. 


CHERVIL. 

Scdndix  Cerefolium. —  Cerfeuil,  Fr. —  Garte?ikerbel,  Grer. 
Is  a  warm,  mild,  and  aromatic  plant,  a  native  of  Europe, 
and  in  olden  times  of  great  repute.  After  being  boiled,  it  was 
eaten  with  oil  and  vinegar,  and  considered  a  panacea  for  cour- 
age, comfort  to  the  heart,  and  strength  to  the  body.  It  is  much 
cultivated  by  the  French  and  Dutch,  who  use  the  tender  leaves 
in  soups  and  salads  as  frequently  as  we  use  Parsley,  and  is 
considered  by  many  to  be  a  milder  and  more  agreeable  ingre- 
dient. 

Culture. — Chervil  is  an  annual  plant,  and  should  be  sown 
in  March,  April,  and  May,  in  drills,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
deep,  and  nine  inches  apart.  Cover  lightly,  and  press  the  soil 
firm  with  the  foot,  rake  evenly,  and  give  a  gentle  watering  in 
dry  weather.  The  leaves  are  fit  for  use,  when  two  to  four 
inches  high.  Cut  them  off  close  ;  they  will  come  up  again,  and 
may  be  gathered  in  succession  throughout  the  season. 


CHIVE. 

Allium  SchcB7i6prassum. —  Civette,  Fr. — Binsenlauch,  Ger. 
Allium  is  the  botanical  generic  name  for  all  roots  of  the 
Onion  family,  to  which  this  belongs.     It  is  a  British  plant 


CORN    SALAD.  49 


and  is  supposed  to  partake  of  the  flavor  of  both  the  Onion 
and  the  Leek.  Its  principal  use  is  for  soups  and  salads.  The 
fine  rush-like  leaves,  when  about  three,  or  four  inches  high,  are 
fit  for  use.  They  grow  again  with  surprising  rapidity,  and  are 
the  earliest  Spring  salad,  or  seasoning. 

Culture. — It  is  a  hardy  perennial  bulb,  and,  when  once 
planted,  will  continue  to  grow  for  many  years  in  any  soil. 
They  make  very  good  edgings  for  any  compartment  of  the 
kitchen  garden.  Plant  them  in  March  or  October,  a  few 
inches  apart,  and  two  inches  deep  :  they  will  soon  spread  into  a 
large  bush,  and  not  suffer  in  the  extremest  cold. 


CORN   SALAD. 

Fedia  olitoria. — Mache,  Fr. — Ackersalat^  Ger. 
Fetticus  or  Lambs'  Lettuce  is  a  native  of  Europe,  and  cultiva- 
ted extensively  as  a  Spring  salad,  but  in  France  they  frequent- 
ly dress  it  like  Spinach.  It  is  called  Lambs'  Lettuce,  from  its 
having  been  in  repute  as  an  early  feed  for  lambs.  Every  gar- 
den should  have  a  patch  of  this  very  palatable  vegetable,  as  it 
comes  early  in  Spring,  when  even  the  sight  of  green  is  refresh- 
ing. 

Culture. — Sow  the  seed  from  the  8th  to  the  20th  of  Sep- 
tember, in  shallow  drills,  one-fourth  inch  deep  and  six  inches 
apart:  cover  lightly,  and  if  dry  weather,  tread  or  roll  the 
ground  to  press  the  seed  and  soil  together.  It  is  an  annual, 
and  requires  to  be  sown  every  year.  Hoe  and  keep  clear  of 
weeds  ;  in  November  cover  slightly  with  straw  ;  when  want- 
edj  the  leaves  should  be  picked  and  not  cut.  If  the  Winter 
proves  mild,  it  will  be  in  use  the  whole  season.  If  the  seed  is 
not  fresh  every  year,  it  will  frequently  lie  six  months  in  the 
ground  before  it  vegetates.  It  requires  good  rich  soil ;  on 
such  the  flavor  is  greatly  improved. 
3 


50  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


CRESS. 

Lcpidium  Saiivuvi — Cresson,  Er. — Kresse,  Ger. 

Curled  or  Pepper  Cress  takes  its  name  from  its  warm,  spicy, 
pnngent  flavor.  It  is  very  generally  cultivated  as  an  early 
salad.  In  Europe  it  is  daily  on  the  tables  of  the  wealthy,  and 
can  be  grown  fit  for  use  on  a  warm  hot-bed  in  forty-eight  hours. 

Culture. — The  seed  should  always  be  sown  on  very  rich, 
light  ground,  that  it  may  grow  as  rapidly  as  possible,  being 
cut  while  perfectly  young  and  in  a  crisp  state.  It  is  fully 
ready  when  one  inch  high,  and  is  best  when  only  once  cut, 
though  many  allow  it  to  get  two  er  three  inches  high,  cutting 
off  only  the  tops  and  allowing  it  to  grow  for  repeated  croping. 
To  have  it  very  early,  sow  in  February  on  a  gentle  hot-bed, 
where  the  glass  can  be  placed  within  a  few  inches  of  the  soil. 
The  sowings  in  the  open  ground  begin  about  the  end  of  March, 
and  should  be  continued  every  week  for  two  months.  Sow  the 
seed  very  thick,  either  in  drills  or  broad  cast  ;  earth  over 
very  lightly,  just  enough  to  cover  the  seed  ;  and  press  it 
even  with  the  back  of  the  spade.  In  dry  weather  give  oc- 
casional waterings.  In  cold  nights  cover  the  ground  with 
mats,  or  straw,  to  ward  off  any  frost.  When  grown  in  hot-beds, 
give  plenty  of  air  during  the  day.  A  family  can  use  from 
four  ounces  to  a  pound  of  seed. 


CUCUMBER. 

Cucumis  Satzvus. —  Concomhre^  Fr. —  Gurke^  Ger. 

The  Cucumber  is  a  fruit  of  great  antiquity,  found  wild  in 
all  warm  countries,  and  is  cultivated  to  an  amazing  extent  all 
over  the  world — a  surprising  fact,  when  contrasted  with  its 


CUCUMBER.  51 


nourishing  qualities,  few  or  none  of  our  culinary  vegetables 
having  less  nutriment,  it  being  of  a  cold  and  watery  nature, 
and  to  persons  of  a  weak  and  delicate  constitution  very  indi- 
gestive. When  dressed  with  oil,  vinegar,  and  pepper,  it  is 
freely  used  to  cool  the  feelings  and  sharpen  the  appetite  :  hence 
the  common  saying,  ■''  as  cool  as  a  cucumber."  Of  the  many 
sorts  in  cultivation,  we-select  the  following,  as  being  dissimilar, 
and  worthy  of  culture,  either  for  the  frame  or  open  air. 

Early  Short  White  Prickly. — Fruit  from  four  to  six  inches 
long,  of  a  sea-green  color,  with  white  spines  ;  forces  very  well, 
and  is  grown  extensively  for  market.  It  does  not  get  yellow 
so  soon  as  the  Early  Short  Prickly^  which  is  of  the  same  size, 
of  a  dark  green  color,  with  black  spines. 

Long  Early  Frame. — This  is  used  both  for  forcing  and  open 
air  culture.  It  grows  from  six  to  ten  inches  long,  a  good 
bearer  and  a  very  excellent  variety. 

Manchester  Prize. — Dark  green,  with  black  spines.  An 
English  variety ;  of  great  excellence  either  as  a  fruit  or  abun- 
dant bearer ;  generally  grown  in  the  gardens  of  the  wealthy 
about  Philadelphia,  and  is  often  seen  at  our  Exhibitions  twenty 
inches  to  two  feet  long. 

Kerrisoii's  Long  White  Spiiie,  in  size  and  form  similar  to  the 
former.      The  spines  or  prickles  are  white :  a  good  bearer. 

Lo7ig  Prickly  grows  about  ten  inches  long ;  dark-green 
color,  black  prickles  ;  a  great  bearer.  This  variety,  with  the 
two  first  named,  are  the  most  certain  for  general  crops ;  the 
other  long  sorts  are  equally  as  crisp,  if  not  more  so,  but  they 
are  not  so  plentiful  bearers,  neither  do  they  produce  seed  in 
any  quantity.  If  different  sorts  of  Cucumbers  are  grown  con- 
tiguous to  each  other,  they  are  certain  to  mix,  and  the  seed 
from  them  will  not  produce  the  genuine  variety.  There  are 
also  white  Cucumbers,  and  white  with  black  spines,  but  their 
taste  is  flatter  and  more  insipid. 

Culture  in    the    open   air   is  of  the   simplest   character. 


52  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

Merely  dig  out  a  hole,  about  a  foot  wide  and  deep  ;  fill  it  with 
rich,  sandy  soil ;  raise  it  above  the  surface  about  six  inches : 
the  hills  should  be  six  feet  apart  each  way.  Any  time  in  May, 
sow  a  few  seeds  therein,  and  the  result  is  certain.  If  the 
weather  be  warm,  they  will  grow  in  a  few  days  ;  if  the  nights 
are  cold,  protect  them.  There  is  frequently  a  little  bug,  which 
preys  upon  the  tender  leaves  ;  if  sOj  soot  and  wood  ashes 
sprinkled  over  them,  while  wet  with  the  dew,  will  retard  the 
progress  of  the  depredator.  As  soon  as  the  vines  have  made 
three  rough  leaves,  nip  the  points  off  to  make  them  branch 
out.  They  will  fruit  sooner  by  it.  Three  vines  to  one  hill  is 
quite  enough.  To  have  young  fruit  in  February  and  March 
is  rather  a  nice  operation,  but  any  one  who  can  command  a 
few  loads  of  warm  horse-manure,  can  have  them  from  April  to 
October.  That  farmers  in  the  country  may  have  the  article 
either  for  family  use  or  for  sale,  a  few  hints  may  be  in  place  on 

Forcing  Cucumbers. — The  first  requisite  is  to  obtain  four 
feet  square  of  warm  stable-manure  ;  turn  it  up  into  a  heap  for 
-eight  or  ten  days,  to  allow  the  rank  vapor  to  pass  off,  when  it 
may  be  placed  into  any  form  to  suit  a  sash.  The  general  size 
is  four  by  six  feet,  and  three  or  four  feet  high  at  the  back, 
sloping  to  two  and  a  half  or  three  feet  at  front.  Either  make 
or  have  made  a  frame  of  boards,  at  least  fifteen  inches  deep, 
three  feet  wide,  and  five  feet  long,  or  the  fall  size  of  the  sash. 
Let  the  dung-bed  be  a  foot  all  round  larger  than  the  frame. 
Should  heavy  rain  or  snow  fall,  or  it  be  a  severe  frost,  the 
manure  should  be  protected  with  a  covering  of  straw.  Care, 
however,  should  always  be  taken  that  the  reduction  of  the 
heat  in  the  dung  is  not  carried  too  far,  before  making  up  the 
bed,  as,  when  that  is  the  case,  too  little  heat  will  afterwards  be 
produced,  and  the  young  plants  will  be  of  a  yellow  color  in- 
stead of  a  rich  green.  The  bed  should  be  built  square  up,  and 
regularly  beaten  down  with  the  fork.  When  finished,  put  on 
the  frame  and  sash  ;  keep  it  close  for  a  day  or  two,  to  draw 


CUCUMBER.  53 


up  the  lieat ;  air  should  then  be  admitted  for  a  few  days,  dur- 
ing the  day,  by  tilting  up  the  sash  at  the  back  a  few  inches, 
to  allow  the  steam  to  pass  off,  which  it  generally  does  in  four 
or  five  days  or  less.  Supposing  the  bed  now  in  order,  put  in 
a  quantity  (three  barrow-loads)  of  light,  rich  loam :  none  bet- 
ter than  that  from  the  surface  of  the  woods.  In  two  or  three 
days  the  earth  will  be  sufficiently  warm  for  sowing  the  seeds. 
If  the  i^lants  are  to  be  removed  into  other  frames,  sow  them 
in  pots  ;  if  not  to  be  removed,  sow  them  in  a  hill  made  in  the 
centre  of  the  bed,  by  placing  one  barrow-full  more  of  earth  in 
it.  Sow  a  few  dozen  seeds  to  meet  contingencies,  or  any  extra 
supply,  in  pots,  in  case  of  damping  off — which  frequently  hap- 
pens in  cloudy  Winter  weather.  Cover  the  sash  at  night  with 
straw  mats,  or  any  similar  protection,  and  surround  the  bed 
with  litter  or  boards,  to  keep  the  piercing  winds  from  carrying 
off  the  heat.  The  seed  should  be  two  or  three  years  old  ;  (it  is 
better  than  new  seed,  which  goes  more  to  vine  than  fruit. ) 
It  will  be  up  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  in  two  or  three  days 
will  grow  into  strong  plants.  During  their  growth,  admit 
fresh  air  every  day  at  the  back;  give  the  young  plants 
as  much  light  as  ^possible  ;  when  they  have  attained  their 
third  rough  leaf,  nip  the  point  off  the  vine,  to  cause  it  to 
branch.  If  the  soil  or  the  plants  appear  to  be  dry,  give  them 
water  in  the  forenoon,  which  has  been  kept  in  the  bed  during 
the  previous  night,  that  it  may  be  in  a  warm  state.  The 
plants  succeed  best  when  they  are  transplanted,  and  plant  them 
deep  enough  for  the  earth  to  reach  to  their  seed-leaves.  As  the 
plants  grow,  roots  will  protrude  from  their  stems,  to  which  earth 
may  be  drawn.  The  roots  will  also  appear  through  the  hill, 
to  which  a  farther  supply  of  fresh  soil  may  be  added.  When 
the  plants  have  grown  and  the  san  is  very  warm,  they  may  flag 
or  droop  :  if  so,  sprinkle  a  few  straws  or  a  very  thin  mat  on 
the  glass,  right  over  them,  about  mid-day ;  but  it  is  best  to 
grow  them  without  this  precaution  ;  and  it  is  unnecessary,  when 
they  have  sufficient  moisture,  heat,  and  depth  of  soil.     The 


54  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

requisite  temperature  is  from  65°  to  75°,  and  from  75°  to  100° 
by  day.  Experience  can  manage  these  affairs  with  sight  and 
feeling,  but  the  untutored  require  the  aid  of  a  thermometer 
and  a  stick  to  poke  into  the  dung-bed,  to  ascertain  the  inter- 
nal heat  of  the  material.  When  it  begins  to  decline,  give  it  a 
fresh  lining  of  manure  all  around,  of  eighteen  inches  in  thick- 
ness, and  as  high  as  to  cover  half  of  the  frame.  The  vines,  if 
well  managed,  will  bloom  within  a  month  from  the  day  of  sow- 
ing. The  male  and  female  flowers  are  on  the  same  plant,  and 
art  may  render  assistance,  by  taking  the  male  blossom  and  put- 
ting its  centre  within  the  female,  which  is  easily  distinguished 
by  having  at  its  base  a  form  of  a  cucumber,  half  an  inch  long. 
After  being  impregnated,  it  will  be  fit  to  cut  in  two  weeks. 
These  operations  may  be  begun  and  gone  through  any  time 
from  Christmas  to  March.  To  cultivate  cucumbers  extensive- 
ly, all  that  is  requisite  is  a  preparation  of  manure,  frames, 
and  sash.  Use  the  above  described  bed  for  growing  the  seed- 
ling plants,  transplanting  them  into  larger  frames  or  pits,  (see 
fig.  15,)  three  plants  being  sufficient  for  each  sash,  and  fifty  to 
seventy  fruit  may  be  cut  from  each  light.  When  the  author  was 
gardener  to  the  late  Henry  Pratt,  Esq., of  Lemon  Hill, near  this 
city,  he  cut  Cucumbers  in  February,  and  had  them  for  the  table 
regularly  till  they  could  be  obtained  from  the  open  ground. 

Cucumbers  can  also  be  cultivated  under  hand-glasses  ;  (see 
Fig.  13.)  Dig  out  a  pit  early  in  April,  eighteen  inches  deep 
and  wide,  fill  it  with  warm  manure,  and  cover  with  six  or 
eight  inches  of  rich  light  soil,  in  which  sow  the  seed.  Hand- 
glasses are  made  of  various  sizes,  but  such  as  are  eighteen 
inches  square  will  be  found  the  most  useful.  Admit  air  dur- 
ing sunshine,  as  directed  for  frames,  and  if  cold  nights  prevail, 
cover  them  with  mats  or  litter  of  any  kind.  Cucumbers  for 
pickling  should  be  sown  from  the  end  of  June  to  the  15th  of 
July.  Either  the  Short  Prickly  or  Long  Green  is  suitable 
for  the  purpose.  There  is  also  a  small  Cluster  Cucumber  used 
by  some  for  bottling  or  mixing  with  a  finer  sort  of  pickles. 


EGG-PLANT.  55 


Where  Cucumbers  are  grown  for  family  use,  it  is  of  great  ad- 
vantage to  cover  the  ground  with  straw,  which  will  keep  the 
sun  from  parching  the  soil  in  hot,  dry  weather,  and  prevent 
the  blossoms  and  young  fruit  from  being  covered  with  soil 
during  heavy  rains. 


EGG-PLANT, 

Soldnum  Melongena. — Melongene,  Fr. — Tollapfel,  Grer. 

The  Egg-Plant  was  introduced  from  Africa,  and  is  called 
by  some  the  Gruinea  Squash.  It  is  generally  cultivated,  and  be- 
coming more  so  every  year.  They  are  cut  into  thin  slices 
and  fried,  and  have  a  taste  very  similar  to  oysters.  Others 
use  them  in  stews  and  soups.  They  are  fit  for  the  kitchen 
when  they  attain  the  size  of  a  goose  egg,  and  are  in  use  till  they 
become  nearly  ripe,  which  is  easily  known  by  the  seeds  chang- 
ing to  a  brown  color.  Many  individuals  are  exceedingly  fond 
of  them,  while  others  will  not  taste  them  in  any  form.  The 
following  varieties  are  cultivated : 

Large  Prickly -Stemmed  Furple  grows  larger  than  any  of  the 
varieties,  and  is  frequently  seen  two  feet  in  circumference ; 
shape,  oval ;  color,  dark  purple. 

Smooth- Stemmed^  so  called  because  it  has  no  prickles  on  the 
stem,  does  not  grow  so  large  as  the  former.  Shape,  long  oval ; 
color,  dark  shining  purple ;  a  few  days  earlier  than  the  Prickly. 

Long  Purple  is  considered  by  some  superior  in  flavor  to 
either  of  the  former ;  it  is  eight  to  ten  days  earlier,  a  very 
prolific  variety,  and  the  best  for  family  use. 

White  Egg-Plant. — The  name  Egg  Plant  is  taken  from 
this  variety,  which  is,  when  in  a  half-grown  state,  very  like  a 
hen's  egg  in  shape,  color,  and  size. 

Culture. — There  is  a  great  ambition  among  growers  to  have 
tkis  vegetable  in  early  use.     I  delight  to  encourage  this  emu- 


56  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

lation  whenever  it  is  manifested.  Competition  promotes  in- 
dnstry,  and  industry  promotes  healtli.  Man  possessing  these 
ingredients  is  very  rarely  unhappy.  Sow  the  seeds  on  a  gentle 
hot-hed  about  the  first  of  March,  on  a  rich,  light  soil ;  give  a 
good  watering,  and  keep  the  frame  close  for  a  few  days  till  the 
seed  comes  up.  Be  careful  to  give  the  soil  a  sprinkling  of 
water  whenever  it  appears  to  be  dry.  As  soon  as  the  plants 
grow,  give  air  freely,  covering  the  glass  in  cold  nights.  When 
they  attain  the  height  of  two  inches,  thin  them  out  to  thret* 
inches  apart,  or  transplant  them  into  another  bed.  Where 
there  is  plenty  of  room,  the  latter  is  the  best  method.  They 
can  be  transplanted  out  from  the  1st  to  the  15th  of  May,  into 
a  warm  border  of  rich  ground,  from  whence  the  early  Lettuce  or 
^Radishes  have  been  taken.  Give  a  good  watering  after  being 
removed  ;  hoe  well ;  keep  clean ;  as  they  grow  draw  earth  to 
their  stems.  They  will  cut  about  the  end  of  June  or  1st  of 
July.  For  a  late  crop,  sow  in  April,  on  a  warm  border  where 
they  are  to  remain,  or  transplant  in  June  during  moist  weath- 
er. Plant  in  rows  two  feet  apart,  and  two  feet  from  plant  to 
plant.  The  seed  will  keep  three  or  four  years.  Sow  Valen- 
tine Beans  between  the  rows. 


ENDIVE. 

Chicdrium  Endivia. —  Chicoree^  Fr. — Endivie,  Ger. 

The  Garden  Endive  is  a  native  of  northern  China,  and  has 
been  cultivated  in  Europe  the  past  three  centuries  for  a 
Winter  salad.  The  French  are  particularly  fond  of  it,  using 
it  raw,  pickled,  fried  and  boiled,  esteeming  it  exceedingly 
wholesome  in  every  form,  and  agreeing  with  every  constitu- 
tion. There  are  four  varieties,  which  we  will  name  in  the  or- 
der we  esteem  them. 

Green  Curled  has  beautiful  curled  or  lancinated  leaves.     li 


ENDIVE.  57 


is  a  fine  stocky  and  hardy  variety,  is  the  principal  sort  for 
salads,  and  when  well  cultivated,  is  very  beautiful. 

Broad-Leaved  has  a  plain,  thick  leaf,  slightly  wrinkled,  and 
turning  inwards ;   it  is  preferred  for  stews  and  soups. 

IVhite  Curled  is  rather  a  delicate  variety,  and  cannot  well 
be  carried  through  the  Winter ;  its  principal  use  is  therefore 
for  the  early  Autumli  crop.     It  will  blanch  in  a  few  days. 

Balaviati  is  a  broad,  plain-leaved  sort,  principally  cultivated 
for  cooking,  and  makes  a  fine  head. 

Culture.— For  the  early  crop,  sow  about  the  first  of  July, 
It  will  do  on  the  ground  where  early  Cabbage  or  Peas  have 
come  off,  by  giving  it  a  coat  of  manure.  Draw  drills  the  depth 
of  the  hoe,  one  foot  apart,  and  sow  therein ;  sprinkle  a  little 
earth  in  the  bottom  of  the  drill  sufficient  to  cover  the  seed, 
which  will  be  up  in  a  few  days.  If  dry  weather  ensue,  water 
once  or  twice  till  the  plants  get  hold.  Thin  them  out  when 
about  two  inches  high  to  ten  inches  apart ;  hoe  freely,  and 
keep  clear  of  weeds.  Being  grown  in  these  shallow  drills,  they 
are  more  easily  earthed  up  and  grow  better  in  warm,  dry 
weather.  When  the  leaves  have  attained  about  eight  inches 
long  they  are  fit  for  blanching  ;  for  this  purpose  a  dry  day  must 
be  chosen.  Gather  up  the  leaves  in  your  hand,  in  a  close  and 
rounded  form ;  see  that  there  is  no  earth  or  litter  in  their  cen- 
tre ;  tie  them  up  with  a  piece  of  cotton-twist  or  mating,  which 
is  to  go  several  times  round  the  plant,  causing  it  to  close  at  the 
top  to  prevent  the  rain  from  penetrating  to  and  injuring  its  cen- 
tre ;  then  draw  a  little  earth  round  its  base  for  support.  If 
the  leaves  are  not  perfectly  dry  when  tied  up,  they  will  rot,  or 
become  so  stained  as  to  be  unfit  for  the  table.  They  will  take 
about  ten  days  in  warm  and  twenty  days  in  cool  weather  to 
blanch  for  use  ;  a  judgment  may  thus  be  formed  of  the  quan- 
tity to  be  tied  up  at  a  time.  For  late  crops,  sow  about  the 
end  of  July.  If  the  ground  is  not  ready,  they  may  be  sown 
in  a  bed  and  transplanted  during  moist  weather,  giving  a  few 
3* 


58  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

waterings  if  the  season  be  dry.  To  have  it  in  perfection 
through  Winter,  it  should  be  planted  in  frames  in  August, 
and  allowed  to  grow  there ;  or  removed  from  the  ground  into 
the  frames  about  the  first  of  November,  lifting  a  portion  of  soil 
with  their  roots.  Keep  them  rather  dry  during  Winter,  as 
they  are  liable  to  damp  off ;  cover  with  shutters  or  sash ; 
sprinkle  a  few  dry  leaves  among  the  plants  and  tie  them  up  as 
demand  requires.  Give  plenty  of  air  in  sunshine  or  mild 
fs^eather  ;  they  require  protection  only  from  heavy  rains  and 
severe  frosts.  Observe^  the  leaves  must  not  be  tied  up  when 
^hey  are  in  a  frozen  state.  They  may  also  be  blanched  by 
covering  them  with  a  pot  of  any  description,  which  is  often 
used  as  a  precautionary  method  in  Winter. 


FENNEL. 

Anethum  Faniculum. — UAneih^  Fr. — Dillkraut^  G-er. 

Is  a  native  of  Europe,  and  may  be  seen  growing  wild 
on  the  banks  of  rivers  and  near  the  sea  coasts.  It  is  an  in- 
dispensable ingredient  in  French  cookery,  and  extensively  used 
by  the  English,  but  comparatively  in  little  demand  with  us. 
Its  tender  stalks  are  used  in  soups  and  fish  sauces,  also  as 
garnishes  for  dishes.  It  is  conspicuous  as  a  medicinal  plant, 
and  admitted  into  the  Materia  Medica ;  its  virtues  are  stom- 
achic and  carminative. 

Culture. — Fennel  is  cultivated  by  sowing  the  seeds  early 
in  Spring,  in  shallow  drills  half  an  inch  deep  and  ten  inches 
wide,  covering  with  fine  earth.  They  should  be  sown  where 
they  are  intended  to  grow.  Thin  out  the  plants  to  four 
inches  apart ;  a  dozen  of  good  roots  will  supply  any  family,  and 
when  once  established,  there  is  little  fear  of  losing  it,  being  a 
perennial  and  will  last  many  years.  Seedlings  will  also  come 
up  plentifully  around  the  old  plants,  though  it  is  not  advisable 


GARLIC HORSE-RADISH.  59 

to  allow  the  plants  to  go  to  seed  unless  it  is  wanted  for  use. 
If  the  flower  stems  are  cut  off  as  soon  as  they  appear,  it  will 
encourage  a  production  of  young  leaves  below. 


GARLIC. 

Al'lium  Sativum. — JLi/,  Fr. — Knoblauch^  Ger. 

The  term  Garlic  is  given  to  this  vegetable  on  account  of  its 
powerful  and  penetrating  scent.  It  is  a  native  of  many  parts 
of  the  world,  and  has  been  in  general  use  for  two  centuries. 
Many  very  excellent  and  medicinal  qualities  are  attributed  to 
its  root,  and  it  would  no  doubt  be  more  generally  used  if  it  were 
not  for  its  unpleasant  odor.  The  French  use  it  in  sauces  and 
salads. 

Culture. — There  are  two  varieties  cultivated,  under  the 
name  of  Large  and  Small.  As  either  of  them  is  large  enough 
for  any  purpose,  one  variety  only  is  necessary.  The  root  is  a 
bulb,  divided  into  parts  called  psuedo-bulbs  or  cloves.  It  is 
propagated  by  planting  these  cloves  in  drills  two  inches  deep, 
six  inches  apart,  and  four  inches  from  plant  to  plant,  early  in 
Spring,  on  light,  rich  ground.  It  requires  to  be  frequently 
hoed  and  kept  free  from  weeds.  About  the  end  of  July  the 
bulbs  are  generally  full  grown,  which  will  be  evident  from  the 
yellow  appearance  and  withering  of  the  leaves.  They  must 
then  be  taken  up,  cleaned  and  dried,  and  afterwards  tied  in 
bundles,  to  be  hung  up  in  a  shed  or  room  and  preserved  for  use. 


HORSE-RADISH. 

Cochledria  armoracia. —  Cranson^  Fr. — Merrettig,  Ger. 

Horse-radish  is  a  native  of  Europe,  growing  in  deep  soil  and 
marshy  places.     Tt  has  been  long  cultivated  in  our  gardens 


60  LTIST'S    FAIUILY    KITCHEN    GARDENER. 

either  for  medicine,  salads,  or  sauces.  The  root,  scraped  into 
shreds,  or  grated  fine  and  soaked  in  vinegar,  is  a  well-known 
accompaniment  to  roast  beef.  Its  medicinal  effects  are  t"o 
stimulate  the  glands  to  activity  ;  and  on  account  of  its  warm 
nature  it  is  good  in  numerous  cases  arising  from  cold  and 
viscid  juices.  The  root,  when  fresh  grated,  assists  digestion  ; 
it  may  therefore  be  properly  employed  as  a  condiment  at  the 
table.  It  is  also  considered  of  great  service  in  rheumatic 
cases,  and  on  the  first  appearance  of  scurvy. 

Culture. — In  a  commercial  point  of  view  it  has  become  of 
late  extensively  cultivated ;  acres  are  yearly  planted  and  al- 
lowed to  grow  two  or  three  years,  when  it  is  lifted  and  sold  by 
weight  to  pickle  manufacturers,  who  grind  it  up,  and  pack  it  in 
jars  with  vinegar  for  home  use  and  exportation.  It  grows  best 
in  a  deep,  rich  soil,  inclining  to  moisture  ;  on  low  ground,'  or 
contiguous  to  water.  It  is  propagated  by  the  tops  or  crowns, 
or  any  part  of  the  root  cut  into  pieces  two  inches  long  will 
grow. 

When  a  convenient  spot  of  ground  is  chosen,  take  out  ao 
opening  at  one  end  fifteen  inches  deep,  in  the  common  way  of 
trenching,  and  two  feet  wide.  Plant  therein  two  rows,  one  foot 
apart  and  nine  inches  from  plant  to  plant.  Put  over  them 
from  the  next  trench  fifteen  inches  of  soil,  and  so  continuing 
till  the  whole  is  finished. 

Another  method  of  planting  is  readily  done  by  trenching 
the  ground  as  above,  and  leveling  and  raking  it  properly. 
Then  take  a  dibber  fifteen  inches  long,  and  of  sufficient  thick- 
ness to  allow  the  sets  to  drop  into  the  bottom  of  the  holes  so 
made,  and  fill  up  the  holes  with  fine  earth.  This  method 
makes  a  very  clean  and  handsome  root.  To  make  the  most  of 
every  part  of  the  Garden,  some  light  and  quick  crop  may  be 
sown  on  the  ground  early  in  Spring  after  being  planted,  such 
as  Spinach,  Radish,  Lettuce,  &c.,  which  will  be  off  in  time  not 
to  injure  the  roots.     As  Spring  has  its  multitude  of  operation*; 


INDIAN    CORN.    '  61 


we  recommend  the  Horse-radisli  to  be  planted  in  November. 
When  the  roots  are  required  for  use,  open  a  trench  on  one 
side  of  the  row,  then  clear  the  plants  down  to  the  roots  from 
whence  they  spring,  and  cut  them  off,  leaving  a  small  portion 
to  form  another  plant  the  following  season,  though  it  is  deci- 
dedly preferable  to  make  a  new  plantation  every  two  years,  as 
when  the  roots  beco"me  old  they  have  a  hard,  bitter  taste. 
Before  the  Winter  sets  in,  there  should  be  a  sufficient  supply 
lifted  for  use,  and  stored  in  the  root-cellar,  in  moist  earth.  If 
they  are  allowed  to  become  dry,  they  lose  their  sprightly  flavor. 


INDIAN    CORN. 

Zea  Mays.— Mais,  Fr. 

This  vegetable  is  universally  cultivated  for  the  table  through- 
out the  United  States.  Its  varieties  are  numerous,  and 
yearly  increasing.  Those  particularly  adapted  for  the  table 
have  been  greatly  improved  the  past  few  years.  It  is  an  in- 
dispensable dish  for  both  the  rich  and  the  poor,  in  its  season. 
By  a  knowledge  of  its  culUire,  and  attention  to  repeated  sow- 
ings, it  may  be  had  from  June  to  November.  The  following 
three  varieties  are  the  best  for  the  purpose : 

Extra  Early. — This  is  the  earliest  variety  ;  grains  large  and 
pure  white,  cob  small,  ears  short;  if  planted  from  the  15th  to 
25th  of  April,  it  will  be  ready  about  the  same  days  in  June ; 
but  when  planted  about  the  15th  of  May,  it  will  be  ready  about 
the  1st  of  July,  if  the  weather  is  favorable. — Fine  flavored. 

Adams'  Early — very  similar  to  the  above,  but  a  few  days 
later.     Grains  not  so  full  though  equally  as  fine  flavored. 

Sweet,  or  Sugar. — There  are  two  varieties  of  this  ;  the  one 
that  has  eight  rows  of  grains  on  the  cob  is  the  best.  It  re- 
mains some  time  in  a  milky  state,  and  therefore  the  same  sow- 
ing is  fit  for  the  table  a  longer  period.     The  grains  of  the 


62  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

Sugar  Corn,  when  in  a  dry  state,  are  small  and  shriveled,  and 
are  consequently  easily  distinguished. 

Culture. — The  ground  must  be  in  good  condition ;  if  not 
make  it  so,  or  put  a  shovelful  of  decayed  manure  or  rich 
compost  into  each  hill.  Plant  in  hills,  three  feet  apart,  five 
6t  six  grains  in  each  ;  when  up,  allow  three  only  to  stand  for 
a  crop ;  hoe  deep  and  frequently,  drawing  some  earth  to  the 
stalks  when  about  a  foot  high.  If  they  incline  to  sucker,  or 
make  side  shoots,  break  them  off.  Plant  every  two  weeks  till 
August.  This  crop  can  be  used  to  fill  up  all  vacancies  in  the 
ground,  and  to  follow  other  crops  as  they  come  off  in  June 
and  July. 


INDIAN    CRESS,  OR   NASTURTIUM. 

Trojpmlum  mdjus. —  Capucine^  Fr. — Kapuzinerblume^  Grer. 

The  botanic  name  is  derived  from  a  Latin  word  signifying 
a  warlike  trophy.  This  idea  might  have  originated  with  bot- 
anists from  its  shield-like  leaves  and  its  brilliant,  golden,  hel- 
met-shaped flower*,  pierced  and  stained  with  blood.  It  is  a 
native  of  Peru  and  Chili,  where  there  are  many  curious  and 
fanciful  varieties,  though  none  so  beautiful  as  the  Common 
Nasturtium  that  has  been  cultivated  for  nearly  three  hundred 
years.  Its  gay  colors  enliven  the  gardens  of  the  rich  and  the 
poor.  The  flowers  and  leaves  have  a  sharp  and  warm  taste,  like 
Garden  or  Curled  Cress ;  and  are  frequently  used  in  salads. 
The  seeds,  when  gathered  young  and  green,  on  a  dry  day,  and 
pickled  in  vinegar,  form  an  excellent  substitute  for  Capers, 
and  indeed  are  preferable. 

Culture. — It  is  properly  treated  as  an  annual  plant,  and 
sown  for  the  benefit  of  its  seed,  fiowers  and  foliage,  as  well 
as  for  ornament.  Sow  the  seed  thinly,  in  rows  or  patches,  an 
inch  deep,  about  the  end  of  March  or  first  of  April      It  is  not 


JERUSALEM    ARTICHOKE.  63 

particular  in  regard  to  either  soil  or  situation  ;  they  will  thrive 
almost  any  where,  if  the  ground  is  rich.  The  plants  will  run 
from  five  to  fifteen  feet,  and  require  stakes  or  trellis-work  to 
climb  upon.  They  are  excellent  for  a  blind,  to  cover  any  dis- 
agreeable object.  There  are  several  varieties  of  yellow,  gol- 
den, or  crimson  color.  The  yellow  stands  the  severity  of  the 
sun  better  than  the  crimson. 


JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE. 

Helidnthus  Tuberbsus. — Poire  de  Terre,  Fr. — Erde  Apfel,  Ger. 

The  tuberous-rooted  Sunflower,  as  the  name  implies,  is  a 
native  of  South  America,  and  has  been  cultivated  for  two  cen- 
turies. Like  many  other  new  vegetables,  when  first  intro- 
duced, it  was  extolled  extravagantly.  It  was  baked  in  pies, 
with  dates,  ginger,  raisins,  &c. ;  and  of  course  amalgamated  with 
such  good  things  that  it  could  not  taste  indifferently.  When 
boiled  in  the  simple  way  of  Potatoes,  however,  they  will  not 
form  a  very  palatable  dish.  The  modern  way  of  serving  them 
up,  is  to  boil  them  till  they  become  tender,  when,  after  being 
peeled  and  stewed  with  butter  and  wine,  they  are  considered 
pleasant,  and  taste  similar  to  the  true  Artichoke.  They  are 
not  so  good  as  Potatoes,  but,  as  a  crop  for  feeding  hogs  or 
cattle,  they  are  more  productive. 

Culture. — They  are  propagated  and  planted  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  Potatoe,  any  time  in  March,  and  will  grow  in 
any  soil,  even  under  trees.  They  are  best  fresh  planted  every 
year,  and  require  good,  light  ground.  TJie  stems  grow  to  eight 
or  ten  feet  high,  and  have  the  appearance  of  the  Sunflower. 
They  are  in  use  from  October  to  April.  Any  time  in  Novem- 
ber, a  quantity  may  be  lifted  and  packed  away  in  sand  or  earth, 
for  Winter  use :  or  cover  the  ground  with  rough  litter,  to  keep 


64  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

out  severe  frost,  and  they  can  be  lifted  as  required.    The  frost 
does  not  injure  the  tubers. 


LEEK. 

Al'lium  Porrum — Porreau^  Fr. — Lauch^  Ger. 

This  is  a  branch  of  the  Onion  family,  a  native  of  the  north 
of  Europe  ;  is  very  hardy,  and  from  its  mild  qualities  is  prefer- 
red by  many  families  to  the  Onion.  History  records  it  as  having 
been  cultivated  many  hundred  years.  The  Welsh  indulge  in 
Leeks  on  their  patron  St.  David's  day,  in  commemoration  of  a 
victory  which  they  obtained  over  the  Saxons,  which  they  at- 
tribute to  the  Leeks  they  wore  by  order  of  St.  David,  to  distin- 
guish them  in  battle.     There  are  two  varieties,  the 

London  Lech^  so  called  from  the  preference  given  to  it  in  the 
London  market.  It  is  a  strong  growing  variety,  with  the 
leaves  all  round  alike. 

The  Scotch^  or  Flag. — So  denominated  from  the  preference 
given  to  it  in  the  Edinburgh  market,  and  also  from  the  leaves 
being  on  two  sides  of  the  plant  only,  flag-like.  They  are  both 
equally  good,  and  either  of  the  sorts  is  sufficient  for  a  family. 

Culture. — There  is  no  part  of  the  garden  too  rich  for  Leeks. 
They  require  the  best  ground,  well  worked  and  manured  the 
full  depth  of  the  spade.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  on  a  small  bed  of 
light,  rich  ground,  in  drills  six  inches  apart,  and  half  an  inch 
deep  ;  rake  it  evenly,  and  give  it  a  beat  with  the  back  of  the 
spade.  When  they  come  up,  they  should  stand  an  inch  apart ; 
if  thicker,  thin  them  out.  When  grown  to  about  eight  inches 
high,  they  will  be  of  sufficient  size  to  plant  out. — As  we  have 
remarked,  choose  the  best  ground,  draw  thereon  drills  a  foot 
apart,  and  as  deep  as  the  hoe  will  go.  When  ready,  the  plants 
are  to  be  taken  up  from  the  seed-bed.  Shorten  their  roots  to 
about  an  inch  from  the  plant,  and  cut  two  inches  or  more  from 


LETTUCE.  65 


the  extremity  of  the  leaves.  Both  these  operations  are  done 
for  convenience  and  neatness  in  planting.  Dibble  them  in 
the  drills  eight  inches  apart,  and  as  deep  as  the  plant  will  ad- 
mit of,  not  to  cover  the  young  leaves  pushing  from  its  centre. 
Choose  moist  or  cloudy  weather  for  the  operation  ;  but  if  dry, 
give  the  plants  a  copious  watering.  Hoe  the  ground  frequently, 
to  keep  down  weeds ;  and  as  the  plants  are  observed  to  grow, 
draw  the  soil  around  them.  By  good  culture,  they  will  be 
fit  for  use  early  in  October.  On  the  approach  of  severe  frost, 
lift  sufficient  for  Winter  use.  and  store  them  away  in  earth  or 
sand. 


LETTUCE. 

Laduca  safiva. — Lcutue.  Fr. —  Gartensalat,  Ger. 

This  plant  is  named  from  the  Latin  word  lac,  on  account  of 
the  milky  juice  with  which  it  abounds.  It  is  considered  very 
healthy,  especially  in  the  Spring  of  the  year.  There  are  some 
of  the  family  natives  of  all  the  warm  and  temperate  latitudes 
of  the  globe.  The  leading  cabbaging  kinds  were  originally  in- 
troduced from  Egypt ;  those  of  upright  growth,  from  the 
Island  of  Cos :  hence  the  name  of  Cos  Lettuce  is  applied  to  all 
the  sorts  that  approach  that  character.  Some  of  the  varieties 
have  been  extensively  cultivated  for  opium  preparations.  The 
plant  is  allowed  to  shoot  up  till  just  on  the  eve  of  flowering, 
when  the  top  is  cut  off  in  the  afternoon.  In  thirty-six  hours 
there  is  a  brown  crust  found  on  the  wounded  part  of  the  stem, 
which  is  carefully  collected.  The  stem  is  again  cut,  and  re- 
peatedly, till  the  plant  ceases  to  yield  its  milky  substance. 
It  is  unquestionably  the  best  of  the  salading  vegetables. 
Many  varieties  are  cultivated  in  Europe,  and  not  a  few  in  this 
country ;  but  several  kinds  grown  there  are  not  adapted  to  our 
high  and  dry  temperatures.  The  following  cabbaging  sorts 
are  the  best  cultivated  at  the  present  time. 


66  buist's  family  kitchen  gardenep... 

BroivTi  Dutch. — Two  kinds,  the  "White  and  the  Yellow  Seed- 
ed ;  the  latter  the  best ;  both  very  hardy :  resists  the  severity 
of  the  Winter  without  any  protection. 

Early  Cabbage  or  White  Butter,  a  very  early  sort ;  does  ex- 
cellent for  forcing  on  hotbeds  ;  the  leaves  of  a  pale  green  :  the 
heads  white. 

Royal  Cabbage,  a  large,  dark  green  variety  ;  two  weeks  later 
then  the  former.  There  are  two  kinds  of  it — the  White  and 
the  Black  Seeded,  the  latter  prefered.  It  does  very  well  for 
a  Summer  salad,  while  the  early  Cabbage  goes  to  seed  without 
heading. 

Drumhead  is  a  very  fine,  large  variety,  does  well  in  Summer, 
and  forms  a  noble  plant  for  a  dish. 

Green  Hammersmith  is  a  very  hardy  variety,  heads  well, 
and  matures  early. 

Victoria  is  a  new  Cabbage  Lettuce,  that  promises  well, 
having  large  heads  of  a  white,  crispy  nature.  It  appears  to 
withstand  the  heat.     We  have  only  grown  it  one  season. 

White  Silesia,  though  not  so  delicate  in  flavor  as  some  of 
the  former,  yet  is  very  acceptable  in  the  heat  of  July,  when 
nearly  every  other  variety  fails.  It  is  early,  hearts  well,  and 
very  crisp. 

Large  Indian.  This  appears  to  be  the  only  variety  we  have 
that  is  perfect  through  the  whole  heat  of  Summer  ;  in  fact, 
it  requires  heat  to  make  it  eatable,  for  in  May  and  June  it  is 
much  too  coarse  for  the  table,  along  with  the  other  fine  sorts. 

The  following  are  Cos  Lettuces,  all  very  celebrated  in  Eu- 
rope, but  with  us  they  do  not  appear  to  retain  their  reputation. 
Our  long,  dry,  warm  Summers,  prevent  their  coming  to  a  crisp 
head  ;  in  fact,  many  of  them  never  head,  unless  very  early  in 
the  season.  They  should  be  tied  up  like  Endive,  eight  or  ten 
days  before  they  are  cut,  unless  they  show  a  disposition  to  head. 
l^^ite  Cos,  of  strong,  upright  growth,  stands  the  heat  well, 
and  if  tied  for  ten  days,  blanches  beautifully. 


LETTUCE.  67 

Brown  or  Bath  Ccs,  a  very  hardy  sort,  can  be  cultivated 
under  a  wall  or  fence  all  Winter,  when  it  will  come  to  use  very 
early  in  Spring. 

Paris  Cos,  a  fine  variety,  grows  strong  and  upright,  very 
crisp,  and  one  of  the  best  of  the  Cos.  It  is  improved  by  tying 
up  eight  or  ten  days  before  it  is  cut. 

Gree?i  Cos,  a  very  hardy  sort,  rather  coarse-growing  ;  but 
when  tied  up  a  few  days  before  being  out.  it  becomes  much  more 
tender. 

Culture. — The  soil  best  adapted  for  the  growth  of  Lettuce, 
is  a  light,  deep,  rich,  sandy  loam,  well  worked  and  manured. 
The  roots  are  very  fibrous,  and  go  in  search  of  food  to  a  great 
depth  and  breadth.  Where  there  are  only  a  few  sorts  culti- 
vated, they  will  require  a  continued  succession  of  sowings,  but 
where  there  is  a  proper  variety,  four  or  five  sowings  in  the  year 
will  keep  the  table  well  supplied.  It  is  one  of  the  few  vege- 
tables that  can  be  had  in  perfection  throughout  the  year,  by 
judicious  management.  It  is  a  crop  too  that  can  be  introduced 
between  other  crops,  without  any  disadvantage,  by  transplanting 
from  the  seed-bed  on  every  suitable  occasion.  For  sorts  that 
will  be  in  use  in  June,  July,  and  August,  sow  Early  Cabbage, 
Royal  Cabbage,  Drumhead,  Silesean,  and  Indian,  on  a  bed  of 
rich,  light  ground,  as  early  in  March  as  the  season  will  admit. 
Sow  a  few  of  each  again  about  the  end  of  April.  Sow  Early 
Cabbage,  Koyal  Cabbage,  and  Victoria,  in  August,  and  about 
the  fifteenth  of  September  a  general  sowing  of  all  the  sorts. 
The  Brown  Dutch,  and  other  heading  kinds  for  planting  in 
drills,  to  stand  out  all  Winter,  as  recommended  for  Early  York 
Cabbage ;  the  Early  Cabbage  Lettuce,  for  heading  in  frames 
during  Winter ;  and  the  other  sorts  to  be  transplanted  into 
boxes,  very  closely,  about  the  middle  or  end  of  October,  and 
protected  with  boards  or  shutters  during  Winter,  giving  plenty 
of  air  every  mild  day.  See  that  they  arc  not  preyed  upon  by 
slugs  ;  if  so,  a  dusting  of  air-slacked  lime  or  soot  will  destroy 


68  buist's  family  kitchen  gardenep*,. 

them.  They  should  be  planted  out  as  early  in  Spring  as  the 
season  will  admit.  The  varieties  of  the  Cos  Lettuce  can  only 
be  successfully  grown  by  sowing  late  in  September,  protecting 
them  in  Winter,  and  transplanting  them  out  early  in  Spring. 
The  seed  should  always  be  sown  thinly  and  evenly,  on  fresh- 
dug  ground,  in  very  shallow  drills,  nine  inches  apart.  Rake  it 
smoothly,  and  if  in  dry  weather,  press  it  gently  with  the  back 
of  the  spade.  When  they  have  grown  an  inch  high,  thin  them 
out  to  two  inches  apart.  After  they  begin  to  touch  each  other, 
give  another  thinning,  when  they  can  be  transplanted,  if  re- 
quired, into  other  compartments  for  a  crop.  As  it  is  an  arti- 
cle of  every-day  demand,  a  few  seeds  should  be  sprinkled  in 
with  the  more  permanent  crops,  such  as  Beets,  Onions,  Carrots, 
&c.  Lettuce  are  impatient  of  being  transplanted  during 
warm  weather  ;  the  late  Spring  sowings  and  the  early  Eall  sow- 
ings should  therefore  be  made  where  they  arc  intended  to  grow, 
and  thinned  out  as  they  advance  in  growth.  I  need  scarcely 
add  that  hoeing  deep  and  frequent  is  indispensable  to  secure 
a  good  crop.  In  this  vicinity  there  are  hundreds  of  acres  of 
this  crop  planted  out  in  October  and  November,  on  the  south 
side  of  deep  drills,  drawn  by  the  hoe  ;  after  the  ground  has 
become  hard,  these  drills  have  straw  strewn  lightly  across 
them  during  Winter  ;  early  in  Spring  it  is  removed,  when  the 
plants  grow  rapidly,  head  early,  and  are  off  the  ground  in  time 
to  plant  it  with  Egg-plants  and  Tomatoes,  thereby  having  two 
very  profitable  crops  off  the  ground  in  one  year. 

Should  it  happen  by  accident  or  neglect,  that  there  are  no 
plants  for  Spring  crops,  recourse  must  be  had  to  sowing  on  a 
slight  hot-bed  in  February.  When  the  plants  are  up,  thinned 
out,  and  properly  hardened,  they  are  planted  out  about  the  end 
of  March,  or  first  of  April,  and  treated  as  before  directed. 
Lettuces  may  be  had  in  perfection  throughout  the  whole  Winter, 
if  planted  in  a  sunk  pit  (see  p.  15)  or  frame,  early  in  October, 
and  protected  from  frost  by  glass  sash  and  straw  mats,  giving 
plenty  of  air  during  sunshine,  but  never  allowing  a  draft  from 


MARJORAM.  69 


front  to  back,  if  there  be  severe  frost.  The  earth  should  be 
within  eight  inches  of  the  glass,  to  keep  the  plants  as  near  the 
light  as  possible.  The  best  sorts  are  the  Early  Cabbage  and 
Royal  Cabbage.  Plant  them  eight  to  ten  inches  apart,  each 
way,  and  alternately  opposite.  Give  occasional  watering,  pick- 
ing off  all  decayed  leaves.  If  the  Winter  proves  very  severe, 
surround  the  frame  or  pit  with  dry  leaves  from  the  woods  ; 
this  precaution  can  nearly  always  be  conveniently  adopted; 
leaves  being  everywhere  plentiful,  a  store  should  always  be  at 
hand.  In  all  the  southern  States,  every  variety  of  the  Let- 
tuce is  perfectly  hardy,  and  can  be  grown  in  perfection  from 
October  to  May.  The  varieties  of  Cos  heart  freely,  if  tied  as 
recommended  for  Endive,  and  are  greatly  benefited  by  that 


simple  operation. 


MARJORAM. 

Origanum  Majordna. — Marjolaine,  Fr. — Marjoran,  Ger.     • 

Sweet  Marjoram  is  a  native  of  the  South  of  Europe.  It 
has  a  pleasant  odor,  and  a  warm,  aromatic,  bitterish  taste.  It 
is  used  for  seasoning  soups,  and  other  matters  of  cookery,  and 
considered  a  wholesome  ingredient,  and  beneficial  in  nervous 
complaints.  There  are  two  varieties,  the  Sweet  and  the  Pot 
Marjoram ;  the  former,  an  annual,  and  the  latter  an  herba- 
ceous plant,  or  a  plant  that  lasts  from  year  to  year. 

Culture. — Marjoram  seed  is  of  the  very  smallest  descrip- 
tion, and  has  to  be  sown  early  in  April.  On  ground  finely 
prepared,  make  a  mark  along  the  line  with  the  point  of  a  stick, 
merely  to  show  where  the  seed  is  to  be  dropped,  which  do 
very  thinly  and  evenly,  then  cover  up  with  the  back  of  the 
rake.  The  rows  should  be  ten  inches  apart.  As  soon  as  the 
plants  appear,  thin  them  out  to  two  inches  apart.  When  the 
plant  offers  to  bloom,  cut  the  stems  and  dry  them  in  the  shade. 


70  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

When  dry,  tie  tliem  in  paper  bags,  and  hang  them  up  in  a 
dry  room  for  use.     Let  a  few  plants  ripen  for  seed. 

Pot  Marjoram^  or  Winter  Marjoram^  is  propagated  by  divid- 
ing the  roots  early  in  Spring  and  planting  it  in  beds.  Cut  it 
when  in  full  bloom ;  dry  in  the  shade ;  wrap  it  up,  and  pre- 
serve it  for  Winter  use. 


MELON. 

Cucumis  Melo. — Melon,  'Fr.—Melone,  Ger. 

The  Melon,  in  some  character,  is  to  be  found  in  all  tropical 
countries,  but  the  finest  varieties  are  supposed  to  have  come 
from  Persia  and  Affghanistan.  It  has  been  cultivated  in  Eu- 
rope nearly  four  hundred  years,  and  in  the  south  of  that 'con- 
tinent, in  its  season,  it  constitutes  the  principal  part  of  the 
food  of  the  lower  classes,  proving  that  it  is  both  wholesome  and 
nutricious.  The  flesh  of  a  well  grown  melon  is  delicious.  It 
is  eaten  with  ginger,  pepper,  sugar,  salt,  or  as  fancy  and  taste 
dictate.  Its  nature  is  cooling.  There  are  many  varieties  in 
culture,  which,  with  artificial  aid,  can  be  brought  to  perfection, 
but  when  left  to  unassisted  nature  and  exposed  to  heavy  rains 
and  scorching  suns,  the  number  is  very  limited  indeed.  They 
are  confined  to  the  indifi"erent,  or  improved  culture  and  purity 
of  three  or  four  sorts. 

Musk  Melon,  so  called  from  its  peculiar  scent,  is  nearly 
round;  color,  a  yellowish  green:  rind  smooth,  and  the  fruit 
very  slightly  ribbed.  It  used  to  be  extensively  cultivated 
for  its  productive  qualities,  but  now  gives  way  to  better  va- 
rieties. 

Early  Cantaloif^e  takes  its  name  from  a  village  near  Rome, 
where  it  has  been  grown  for  many  centuries,  and  from  thence 
distributed  to  this  Western  world.  There  are  many  varieties 
of  it,  readily  distinguished  from  the  former  by  having  small 


MELON.  71 

warts  on  the  rind,  the  flesh  greener,  and  more  firm. — Well  fla- 
vored. 

Netted  Citroii  is  an  oyal  fruit,  roughly  netted  all  over,  of  a 
pale  yellowish  green  when  ripe ;  grows  to  a  good  size  ;  from 
two  to  five  pounds  ;  ^esh,  green,  firm,  juicy,  and  high  flavored. 
This  variety  commands  the  highest  price  in  Philadelphia  mar- 
ket, and  its  quality  depends  on  its  genuine  purity.  Seeds 
should  he  two  years  old  before  sowing. 

Rock  Melon. — Fruit  of  an  oval,  round  shape,  rind  green, 
with  large  white  warts  or  rocky  appearances  thereon,  hence 
its  name.  Flesh  solid,  of  a  yellowish  color,  rich  and  melting ; 
in  size,  equal  to  the  former. 

Culture. — The  Melon  is  cultivated  in  a  similar  manner  to 
the  Cucumber.  The  soil  and  treatment  that  grows  the  one 
will  grow  the  other,  though  the  Melon  prefers  a  dryer  atmos- 
phere, and  is  more  liable  to  die  off  after  heavy  rains  than  the 
former.  To  have  it  in  perfection,  it  should  not  be  grown  in 
the  vicinity  of  Squashes,  Grourds,  Pumpkins,  Cucumbers,  or 
any  variety  of  the  family,  or  it  will  invariably  become  im- 
pregnated with  the  inferior  flavor  of  its  congeners.  In  a 
small  Grarden,  it  is  not  possible  to  grow  all  these  sorts  without 
contamination.  It  is  therefore  better  to  plant  all  Squashes 
and  Pumpkins  in  the  field.  A  bed  twenty-two  'feet  square 
will  grow  sixteen  hills,  each  six  feet  apart.  Mark  the  spaces 
by  the  line  each  way  ;  dig  out  the  earth  one  foot  deep  and  two 
feet  wide,  spreading  it  about ;  then  fill  up  the  holes  thus  made 
six  inches  higher  than  the  surrounding  ground,  with  rich,  light 
compost — very  old,  rotten  manure,  sand,  and  garden  earth,  in 
equal  parts,  will  do.  Into  these  conical  heaps  or  hills,  about 
the  first  of  May,  sow  eight  or  ten  seeds,  half  an  inch  deep  and 
a  few  inches  apart.  As  soon  as  the  plants  have  made  two 
rough  leaves,  thin  them  out,  leaving  four  only  to  each  hill. 
When  each  have  made  four  or  five  rough  leaves,  pinch  the 
point  of  each  shoot  to  make  the  plants  branch  out  and  fruit 


72  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

earlier ;  this  is  what  gardeners  call  "  topping,"  which  strength- 
ens the  vines.  Draw  earth  around  their  stems  to  support 
them  from  the  wind  ;  when  they  begin  to  run,  they  require  no 
further  assistance,  except  it  may  be  to  thin  out  the  shoots 
where  they  become  too  crowded  and  confused.  Hoe  and  stir 
up  the  soil,  and  keep  clear  of  weeds.  As  no  garden  should 
have  a  foot  square  of  lost  ground,  crop  between  these  hills. 
Valentine,  or  Snap-Short  Beans,  is  very  suitable.  Three 
sorts  sown  now  will  be  off  the  ground  in  June  and  July,  be- 
fore the  Melon  vines  occupy  the  whole.  This  plant,  with  the 
Cucumber,  is  very  subject  to  be  attacked  with  a  yellow  striped, 
or  black  bug.  We  are  not  yet  aware  of  an  infallible  remedy, 
but  a  dusting  of  soot  or  wood  ashes  will  retard  their  progress 
till  the  plants  begin  to  grow  freely.  If  they  are  thus  attacked 
as  soon  as  the  vines  show  their  rough  leaves,  it  would  be  im- 
prudent to  top  the  plants,  as  it  stops  their  growth,  and  the 
insect  would  then  entirely  overcome  them. 

Melons  may  be  forced,  in  the  same  way  as  directed  for  the 
Cucumber,  when  it  can  be  conveniently  done,  and  to  my  taste 
it  is  a  preferable  plant ;  the  finer  sorts,  that  will  not  bear  the 
open  exposure  of  rain  and  heat,  should  be  sown,  such  as  the 
Grreen-fleshed  and  Kock  Melons.  Some  of  the  latter,  and  as 
fine  as  any  I  ever  saw,  took  the  first  premium  at  the  New  Jersey 
Horticultural  Society,  at  Princeton,  the  past  season.  They  were 
from  the  garden  of  A.  H.  Stevens,  Esq.,  of  Hoboken,  and  did 
great  credit  to  the  grower.  When  grown  under  glass,  the 
sash  should  have  a  very  thin  mat  thrown  over  it,  from  eleven 
to  two  o'clock,  and  from  the  middle  of  April  till  the  fruit  is  all 
cut ;  and  although  the  leaves  may  droop,  it  is  not  always  a  sign 
that  the  plant  is  in  want  of  moisture.  It  is  not  advisable  to 
pour  the  water  round  the  neck  of  the  plant — a  very  common 
practice  and  a  very  inconsistent  one ;  the  extremity  of  the 
roots  and  leaves  are  the  absorbing  organs  of  the  plant :  sup- 
ply the  former  by  watering  the  soil,  and  the  latter  by  frequent 


WATER-MELON.  73 


sprinklings  with  the  syringe,  or  from  the  rose  of  a  watering 
pot. 

The  red  spider  is  a  pest  to  the  Melon.  It  is  a  very  minute 
red  insect,  quick  in  it«  movements,  generally  on  the  uu: 
der  side  of  the  leaf  When  observed,  lift  up  the  vines  and 
turn  them  over,  exposing  the  under  surfaces  of  the  leaves ;  then 
give  them  a  syringing  with  soap  suds.  One  or  two  such  doses 
will  destroy  it,  when  pure  water  may  he  more  frequently  used. 
for  it  is  too  dry  an  atmosphere  that  genders  this  pest  of  the 
gardener. 

Within  a  few  years  past,  Europe  has  resounded  with  the 
praise  of  very  extraordinary  Melons  from  Persia  and  Cabul, 
so  much  so  that  we  were  induced  to  import  two  varieties  to 
test  their  merits  in  this  climate.  One  variety  was  very  small, 
about  half  a  pound  weight,  of  a  fine,  smooth,  round  form,  flesh 
quite  yellow  and  high  flavored,  but  too  small  for  general 
culture.  The  other  was  opposite  in  every  character,  being 
large,  oval,  with  a  rough,  white  rind,  flesh  reddish-yellow,  looked 
very  tempting,  but  tasted  much  like  a  Pumj)kin.  Each  seed 
cost  sixpence  sterling. 


WATER-MELON. 

Cucurhita  Citrullus. — Melon  cTeau,  Fr. —  Wasser  Meloji,  Ger. 

The  Water  Melon  is  purely  a  tropical  fruit,  wisely  adapted 
to  the  wants  of  the  inhabitants  of  those  countries,  who  greatly 
appreciate  it  for  its  refreshing  coolness,  and  delicious  flavor. 
It  is  a  grateful  beverage  in  warm  weather.  It  is  no  way  nu- 
tricious,  but  its  seeds  are  considered  a  valuable  remedy  in  uri- 
nary complaints.  There  are  several  sorts  cultivated  extensively 
in  New  Jersey,  even  to  thousands  of  acres,  for  the  supply  of 
the  Philadelphia  and  New  York  markets,  viz. : 

Lo/ig  Green^  Mountain  Sprout^  Carolifia,  Spanish,  and  occa- 
sionally a  White  variety — all  fine  sorts,  though  we  prefer  the 
4 


74 

Spanish.  It  is  rouacl,  very  dark  green,  having  a  very  thin  rind, 
with  a  bright  red  flesh,  and  black  seeds.  It  does  not  grow  so 
large  as  some  others,  but  is  more  rich  and  sugary  in  flavor,  and 
commands  a  better  price.  It  was  introduced  to  this  country 
about  eighteen  years  ago.  The  seed  of  the  first  that  I  saw, 
was  brought  from  Portugal,  by  a  supercargo  of  one  of  the 
ships  of  the  late  Henry  Pratt,  Esq.,  of  Lemon  Hill,  who  freely 
distributed  the  seeds  to  his  friends. 

Culture. — They  require  a  light,  sandy  soil,  not  over"  rich. 
Plant  them  in  hills  as  directed  for  Melons,  giving  them  more 
room,  as  their  vines  extend  much  further.  The  seeds  should 
be  two  years  old  before  planting.  If  they  are  wanted  of  a 
large  size,  three  or  four  fruit  from  each  plant  will  be  sufficient, 
and  when  one  fruit  only  is  taken,  they  will  grow  to  from  twenty 
to  thirty  pounds  weight  each.  It  will  injure  the  flavor  of  the 
fruit  if  they  are  grown  near  to  other  varieties  of  the  Melon. 


MINT. 

Mentha  Virulis. — Menthe,  Fr. — Miinze,  Ger. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  Mint,  but  the  one  under  con- 
sideration is  commonly  known  as  Green  Mint,  or  Spear  Mini, 
from  its  long-pointed  leaves.  In  its  green  state,  it  is  used  in 
sauces,  salads,  and  frequently  in  soups.  When  dried,  and  taken 
as  a  tea,  it  is  very  efficacious  in  stomach  complaints,  far  sur- 
passing any  alcoholic  preparation. 

Culture.- — It  is  a  perennial  plant,  and  propagated  by  parting 
the  roots  in  Spring.  It  will  grow  in  any  kind  of  soil  where 
moisture  abounds,  and  if  in  a  sheltered  spot,  will  come  forward 
more  early  for  use.  If  required  to  be  cultivated  extensively, 
draw  drills  two  inches  deep,  and  one  foot  apart,  drop  therein 
small  pieces  of  the  root,  six  inches  apart :  cover  them  with  the 


MOREL.  75 

soil ;  and  give  the  ground  a  good  top-dressing  every  year  with 
manure,  or  rich  earth.  A  bed  will  keep  in  bearing  five  or  six 
years.  When  new  plantations  must  be  made,  it  is  cut  when 
the  shoots  are  a  few  inches  high.  If  the  plants  are  wanted  for 
drying,  they  must  be  allowed  to  grow  till  they  are  in  full  bloom, 
when  they  are  to  be  cut,  and  the  stalks  laid  out  thinly  to  dry, 
in  a  shed  or  airy  out-building.  When  they  are  perfectly  dry, 
and  have  a  brittle  feeling,  tie  them  up  in  a  paper  to  keep  till 
wanted.  When  green  Mint  is  very  desirable,  it  can  be  taken 
up  and  planted  in  boxes,  and  forced  in  a  hot-bed  with  very  little 
trouble.  In  two  weeks  the  plants  will  be  fit  to  cut.  Two 
years  ago,  I  was  forcibly  struck  with  the  abuse  of  this  very 
healthful  herb.  My  physician  prevailed  upon  me  to  pay  a  visit  to 
one  of  the  Springs,  in  the  interior  of  this  State,  to  try  the  ef- 
fect of  its  waters  upon  my  system,  then  greatly  reduced  by  an 
accident.  To  me,  every  table  appears  meagre,  unless  it  has  a 
very  liberal  supply  of  good  wholesome  vegetables.  On  this  oc- 
casion, the  table  of  "  mine  host"  appeared  to  have  very  homoeo- 
pathic dishes  of  my  favorites.  When  my  strength  began 
to  recruit,  I  sallied  forth  to  the  garden  to  observe  the  cause, 
when  behold  it  contained  almost  exclusively  Green  Mint  !  I 
could  not  conceive  what  extensive  use  they  made  of  it,  till  on 
being  more  familiar  with  the  establishment,  I  observed  that  it 
was  carried  in  armsfiil  (as  if  for  feeding  cattle)  to  the  bar- 
room, where  it  was  liberally  saturated  with  brandy,  ice,  and 
sugar,  to  foster  an  appetite  for  the  sons  of  Bacchus.  May 
that  Boniface  live  to  learn  that  Cabbage,  Beans,  and  Peas,  are 
better  for  health  and  happiness  than  mint-juleps  ! 


MOREL. 

Phallus  esculentus. —  Champignon.  Fr. — Essbare,  Ger. 

This  vegetable  is  a  native  of  this  country,  and  closely  rela- 
ted to  the  Mushroom,  from  which  it  is  distinguished  by  the 


76  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

cap  being  hollow  within,  and  adhering  to  the  stem  by  its  base, 
and  latticed  on  the  surface  with  irregular  sinuations.  The 
height  is  about  four  inches.  It  is  in  perfection,  and  will  be  found 
from  May  to  September,  in  wet  banks,  in  woods,  and  in  moist 
pastures,  and  should  not  be  gathered  when  wet  with  dew,  or  soon 
after  rain  ;  if  gathered  dry,  they  will  keep  several  months. 
They  are  used  either  fresh  or  dried,  as  an  ingredient  to  heighten 
the  flavor  of  gravies,  ragouts,  &c. 

Culture. — We  are  not  aware  that  this  vegetable  has  been 
introduced  into  garden-culture,  like  the  Mushroom,  but  there 
can  be  no  doubt  of  the  attempt  being  attended  with  success. 
The  spawn  should  be  collected  in  June,  and  planted  into  dung- 
beds,  or  ridges  of  soil  differently  composed,  in  order  by  expe- 
riment, to  come  to  the  best  mode  of  cultivation.  Those  who 
have  practised  the  growing  of  Mushrooms,  will  find  no  'diffi- 
culty in  cultivating  the  Morel  or  Mascul  plant. 


MUSHROOM. 

Agancus  campestris. —  Chamjngnon  cultive,  Fr. — Pitz,  Grer. 

The  Mushroom  has  afforded  a  wide  field  of  speculation  for 
botanists  and  naturalists,  who  have  disputed  of  its  perfect  or 
imperfect  character — the  peculiar  method  of  its  propagation 
and  growth — and  its  close  assimilation  in  taste  to  animal  matter. 
The  growth  and  formation  of  this  humble  plant  is  the  most 
remarkable  in  the  vegetable  kingdom. 

They  are  extensively  used  for  making  Catsup,  esteemed  as  a 
pickle,  and  when  stewed  with  rich  gravies,  are  considered  by 
some  very  delicious.  They  are  extensively  cultivated  in  Eu- 
rope, particularly  in  Britain,  where  they  are  grown  all  the 
year  round.      They  liave  also  drawn  the  attention  of  the  more 


MUSHROOM.  77 


scientific  gardeners  in  this  vicinity,  within  these  few  years  past, 
and  basketsful  have  been  brought  before  the  Pennsylvania 
Horticultural  Society  in  oar  Winter  and  Spring  exhibitions. 
The  genuine  Mushroom  is  found  in  Autumn,  on  rich,  old  pas- 
tures. It  has  a  small,  round,  brownish-white  head,  of  a  deli- 
cate pink  color  underneath  :  the  stem  is  generally  from  two  to 
three  inches  high.  There  are  frequent  accounts  of  deaths 
caused  by  this  vegetable,  attributable  either  to  excess  in  eating, 
or  to  a  want  of  care  in  selecting  the  pure  article,  which  grows 
invariably  in  open  fields — such  as  are  overtopped  by  trees,  or 
growing  in  the  shade,  must  be  avoided  ;  also  those  that  grow 
rapidly,  five  or  six  inches  high,  bladder-like,  or  have  a  bright- 
red,  fine-wrought  net-work  underneath,  and  of  a  disagreeable 
scent :  those  possessing  such  characters,  are  bad  and  even 
poisonous. 

Mushroom  Spawn. — We  copy  from  the  transactions  of  the 
London  Horticultural  Society,  the  following  approved  method 
of  making  Mushroom  Spawn : 

"  In  June  or  July,  take  any  quantity  of  fresh  horse-drop- 
pings {the  higher  fed  the  better)  mixed  with  short  litter,  one- 
third  of  cow's  dung,  and  a  good  portion  of  mould,  of  a  loamy 
nature ;  cement  them  well  together,  and  mash  the  whole  into 
a  compost.  Spread  it  on  the  floor  of  an  open  shed,  to  remain 
till  it  becomes  firm  enough  to  be  formed  into  square  flat  bricks  ; 
which  done,  set  them  on  edge,  and  frequently  turn  them  till 
half  dry ;  then  with  a  dibble  make  two  or  three  holes  in  each 
brick,  and  insert  in  each  hole  a  piece  of  good  old  spawn,  about 
the  size  of  a  walnut,"  or  the  spawn  which  consists  of  fine  white 
threads  that  may  be  found  where  mushrooms  are  growing  in 
pastures.  "  The  bricks  should  then  be  left  till  they  are  dry. 
This  being  completed,  level  the  surface  of  a  piece  of  ground, 
under  cover,  three  feet  wide,  and  of  sufficient  length  to  re- 
ceive the  bricks  ;  on  which  lay  a  bottom  of  dry  horse-dung, 
six  inches  thick  ;  then  form  a  pile,  by  placing  the  bricks  iu 
rows,  one  upon  another,  with  the  spawn  side  uppermost,  till 


78  bujst's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

the  pile  is  three  feet  high  ;  next  cover  it  with  a  small  portion 
of  warm  horse  dung,  sufficient  in  quantity  to  diffuse  a  gentle 
glow  of  heat  through  the  whole.  When  the  spawn  has  spread 
itself  through  every  part  of  the  brick,  the  process  is  ended,  and 
the  bricks  may  then  be  laid  up  in  a  dry  place  for  use."  Mush- 
room Spawn,  made  according  to  this  direction,  will  preserve  its 
vegetative  power  many  years,  if  well  dried  before  it  is  laid  up  ; 
but  if  moist,  it  will  grow  and  exhaust  itself 

Culture. — Of  late  years,  the  cultivation  of  this  luxury  has 
become  so  simplified,  that  it  is  in  the  power  of  every  farmer 
and  cottager  to  grow  the  article  for  use  or  sale.  Any  time 
in  October  or  November,  collect  from  the  stable  daily  the  fresh 
droppings,  throw  them  into  a  heap,  which  prevent  from  heating 
violently,  by  frequent  turnings,  and  spreading  it  out  thinly, 
defending  it  from  rain  or  water  of  any  kind.  When  the  quan- 
tity of  one,  two,  or  three  loads  (according  to  resources)  has 
accumulated,  and  has  lain  in  a  heap  two  or  three  weeks,  (which 
time  it  will  most  likely  require  for  all  the  parts  to  get  into  an 
equal  fermentation),  as  soon  as  it  is  observed  that  the  fiery 
heat  and  rank  steam  of  the  dung  are  gone  off,  it  is  ready  for 
nse.  Mushrooms  can  be  grown  in  cellars,  sheds,  stables,  or  in 
any  other  such  building,  where  they  will  be  protected.  Where 
it  is  intended  to  cultivate  them  permanently,  a  covered  shed 
will  be  found  the  most  convenient  place  in  which  to  perform 
the  necessary  work.  For  this  purpose  a  dry  situation  should  be 
chosen,  the  more  sheltered  the  better,  on  which  to  build  a  shed  of 
sufficient  dimensions.  A  bed  four  feet  wide,  and  twelve  feet 
long,  will  give  an  ample  supply  for  a  moderate-sized  family. 
The  shed  may  however  be  erected  ten  feet  wide  and  sixteen  feet 
long,  giving  space  for  working  materials,  and  two  beds  if  re- 
quired. The  shed  should  run  from  north  to  south,  having  a 
close  roof,  and  weather-boarded.  With  the  exception  of  four 
apertures  as  windows,  to  be  covered  with  shutters,  this  erection 
might  be  made  ornamental,  having  a  portion  of  it  for  a  tool- 


MUSHROOM.  79 


house.  Having  marked  out  the  space  for  the  bed,  throw  out 
the  earth  about  six  inches  deep,  laying  it  regularly  at  the  side, 
and  if  good,  it  will  do  for  earthing  the  bed.  In  the  trench, 
lay  four  inches  of  good  dung,  not  too  short,  for  forming  the 
bottom  of  the  bed ;  then  lay  on  the  prepared  dung,  about  six 
inches  thick,  regularly  over  the  surface,  beating  it  down  firmly 
with  the  back  of  the  fork.  Put  on  other  six  inches,  and  so  on 
till  eighteen  or  twenty-four  inches  thick.  In  that  state  it  may 
remain  ten  or  fifteen  days,  during  which  time  the  heat  should 
be  examined  about  the  middle  of  the  bed,  by  thrusting  a  small 
stick  in  several  places,  and  when  found  of  a  very  mild  heat, 
the  bed  may  be  spawned.  The  spawn  bricks  for  this  purpose 
should  be  broken  regularly  into  pieces  about  an  inch  and  a  half 
or  two  inches  square.  These  pieces  are  best  put  in  with  tho 
hand,  raising  the  dung  up  a  few  inches  with  the  one,  while  with 
the  other  the  spawn  can  be  laid  in  and  covered.  This  ought 
to  be  done  in  every  six  inches  of  the  surface  of  the  bed.  If 
the  sides  of  the  bed  are  made  of  a  sloping  form,  they  can  also 
be  spawned.  After  spawning,  level  the  surface  with  the  back 
of  the  spade,  beating  it  gently,  after  which  it  may  be  earthed. 
Procure  that  of  a  sandy,  loamy  nature,  if  from  a  pasture,  so 
much  the  better.  Break  it  up  and  make  it  fine,  laying  it  on 
two  inches  thick.  Level  it  very  neatly  with  the  rake,  and  beat 
it  closely  and  evenly.  When  the  whole  is  finished,  the  bed 
must  be  covered,  a  foot  thick,  with  good  clean  straw  or  natural 
hay,  over  which  lay  mats  or  canvas  in  severe  weather.  Ex- 
amine the  bed  every  few  days,  and  if  the  heat  increases,  di- 
minish the  covering  of  straw,  which  is  better  than  to  take  it 
off  altogether.  In  about  five  weeks,  if  the  bed  be  under  proper 
cultivation.  Mushrooms  will  make  their  appearance,  and  in  two 
days  more  they  will  have  grown  to  a  sufficient  size  for  use. 
Some  people  cut  them,  but  it  is  decidedly  better  to  give  them 
a  gentle  twist  in  the  ground  and  draw  them  out,  filling  up  the 
cavity  with  a  little  fine  mould,  gently  pressed  in  level  with  the  bed. 
This  method  of  gathering  is  much  better  than  culling,  as  the 


80  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

part   left  generally  rots  and  breeds  insects,  particularly  the 
wood-louse,  which  is  very  destructive  to  Mushroom  beds. 

Sometimes  it  happens  that  a  bed  suddenly  ceases  to  be  pro- 
ductive. This  may  arise  from  various  causes,  but  most  frequent- 
ly from  the  cold  state  of  the  bed  iu  Winter,  or  a  dryness  of  soil. 
In  the  former  case,  an  additional  covering  should  be  given,  in 
the  latter,  water  in  a  milk-warm  or  tepid  state  should  be  ap- 
plied moderately,  for  two  or  three  mornings  in  succession. 
After  each  watering  leave  the  covering  oif  for  about  an  hour. 
Soft  water  should  be  used  for  the  purpose. '  In  Summer  the 
beds  will  require  watering  every  two  days,  though  in  Winter 
they  may  not  need  it  in  as  many  months.  A  good  bed  will  be 
productive  for  three  months,  though  it  may  occasionally  happen 
to  wear  out  in  half  that  time. 

From  these  observations,  an  ingenious  mind  can  make  a 
Mushroom  bed  in  a  multitude  of  situations,  all  obtainaMe  v/here 
there  are  cellars,  stables,  or  other  buildings.  We  would  not 
despair  even  in  the  open  air  during  Winter,  covered  with  plenty 
of  litter,  under  a  few  boards  to  ward  off  cold  rains.  In  Spring 
and  Summer,  any  quantity  may  be  grown  in  this  way. 

It  will  be  observed,  in  the  cultivation  of  every  other  vegeta- 
ble we  either  sow  or  plant  some  evident  material  of  reproduc- 
tion ;  but  in  the  cultivation  Qi  Mushrooms,  weneitlv^--  sow  nor 
plant  any  antecedent  production  of  seed,  plant,  or  root,  yet  it 
is  certain  that  mushrooms  are  reproduced  by  a  process  in  which 
the  dung  of  certain  animals  forms  the  chief  instrument,  and 
on  the  goodness  and  strength  of  that  ingredient,  in  whatsoever 
way  it  is  made,  chiefly  depends  the  crop.  We  are  aware  that 
this  vegetable  appears  in  certain  situations  without  any  appa- 
rent cause,  though  we  feel  fully  satisfied  that  there  are  inert 
ingredients  that  only  require  a  combination  of  influences  to 
produce  certain  results^  and  these  results  in  nature  are  uner-* 
ring. 

The  young  Horticulturist  should  never  desist  from  making 
moderate  and  well-considered  experiments.     Let  him  never 


MUSTARD.  81 


suppose  that  perfection  has  already  been  attained.  Acumen 
and  perseverance  should  be  pre-eminently  conspicuous  in  the 
gardener,  who  has  many  vicissitudes  by  weather,  insects,  and  ac- 
cidents to  encounter,  and  he  should  be  prepared  with  resources 
to  resist  them  all. 


MUSTARD. 

Sindpis  alba  et  nigra. — Moutarde,  Fr. — Se7if,  Ger. 

Mustard  Seed  was  first  obtained  from  Egypt,  and  has  been 
known  and  cultivated  for  many  hundreds  of  years.  It  is  ex- 
tensively used  both  in  its  natural  state  and  manufactured,  and 
is  considered  a  wholesome  condiment,  in  whatever  way  it  is 
taken  or  prepared.  It  assists  digestion,  warms  the  stomach, 
and  promotes  appetite.  In  the  Spring,  in  its  green  state,  when 
mixed  with  salads,  it  is  very  refreshing,  and  ought  to  be  ex- 
tensively cultivated  for  that  purpose.  In  Europe  it  is  vastly 
appreciated,  but  with  us  little  attention  is  given  to  the  subject. 
There  are  two  varieties.  The  White  is  principally  used  for 
garden  purposes,  and  the  seed  used  medicinally.  We  can  speak 
practically  of  its  beneficial  efiects  in  constipation  of  the  bowels. 

One  or  two  table  spoonsful  a  day,  sipped  from  half  a  tum- 
bler of  water,  and  swallowed  whole,  is  a  great  relief  in  dyspeptic 
cases,  and  many  have  been  completely  cured  by  its  constant  use. 
The  London  or  Durham  Table  Mustard  is  ma.de  from  this 
species.  Black  Mustard  is  of  the  same  flavor,  and  considered 
of  equal  efficacy  with  the  White.  From  the  flour  of  this  variety 
the  American  mustard  is  made. 

Culture. — This  salad  is  cultivated  in  the  same  manner  as 
recommended  for  Cress,  at  all  times  of  the  year — sowing  every 
week  or  two,  either  in  beds  or  drills,  or  for  early  use  in  hot- 
beds or  boxes,  in  the  windows  of  a  warm  room.  The  seeds 
should  be  covered  very  slightly,  and  frequently  watered,  as 


82  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

moisture  is  indispensable  to  its  growth.  It  should  always  be 
cut  when  about  an  inch  high,  using  a  sharp  knife,  and  cut- 
ting close  to  the  ground,  holding  the  tops  in  one  hand  whilst 
the  knife  is  used  with  the  other.  They  should  be  carefully 
washed  from  earth  or  sand,  allowing  them  to  be  as  short  time 
in  the  water  as  possible  ;  neither  should  they  be  gathered  long 
before  using,  for  their  flavor  would  be  thereby  impaired.  As 
much  of  this  seed  is  generally  required,  a  portion  should  be 
sown  very  early  to  produce  it.  A  bed  three  feet  wide  and 
twenty  feet  long,  having  the  plants  four  or  six  inches  apart, 
will  produce  a  sufficiency  of  seed  for  every  domestic  purpose. 


NEW  ZEALAND  SPINACH. 

Tetragdnicb  expdnsa. — JEpinard  d^ete^  Fr. 

.  The  great  advantage  this  Spinach  possesses  over  the  other 
varieties  is  that  of  supplying  a  crop  of  leaves  in  the  dryest 
weather,  when  crops  of  other  sorts  have  failed.  From  its  ra- 
pidity of  growth,  a  few  dozen  of  plants  will  afford  a  supply 
during  its  growing  season.  If  a  few  leaves  of  Sorrel  are  boiled 
with  it,  the  flavor  is  improved. 

Culture. — It  is  a  spreading,  towering  plant,  growing  in  a 
circular  form,  attaining  the  height  of  four  or  five  feet.  Sow 
the  seed  very  thinly,  in  rows  one  inch  deep  and  two  feet  apart, 
about  the  first  week  of  April,  in  an  open,  rich  piece  of  ground. 
Hoe  freely  and  keep  clean  of  weeds.  The  seeds,  in  a  green 
state,  make  an  excellent  pickle,  for  which  alone  it  is  worth  cul- 
tivation. 


NASTURTIUM.— AS'ee  Indian  Cress. 


83 


ONION. 

Allium  cepa. — Oignon,  Fr. — Zwbiel,  Grer. 

The  Onion  was  anciently  called  Cepe,  on  account  of  the 
form  of  its  bulb.  It  was  also  termed  Unio,  because  the  bulb 
never  divided :  hence  the  English  name  Onion  is  derived.  It 
is  supposed  to  be  a  native  of  Spain,  though  its  native  country 
and  date  of  introduction  is  not  certainly  known.  No  vegeta- 
ble is  more  extensively  known  and  cultivated  than  the  Onion. 
It  has  been  the  common  seasoning  for  meats  and  soiips  of  all 
nations,  from  the  earliest  period  to  the  present — gracing  the 
table  of  all  classes  of  society,  in  some  form  or  other.  For 
flavoring,  it  is  indispensable  in  cookery.  Besides  imparting 
its  flavor  to  other  preparations,  it  afibrds  considerable  nutri- 
ment, and  is  considered  to  possess  medicinal  properties  of  con- 
siderable value.  However,  when  improperly  taken,  and  in  too 
great  quantities,  it  loses  its  virtues  and  becomes  unwholesome 
and  indigestible.  Used  in  its  crude  state,  it  often  remains  in 
the  stomach  forty-eight  hours  before  being  dissolved  by  the 
gastric  juice,  and  in  this  state  has  been  known  to  produce 
spasms.  They  are  most  agreeable,  when  boiled  and  served  up 
with  sauce  or  drawn  butter.  When  cooked  in  this  way,  they 
are  greatly  improved  by  the  water  being  changed  when  they 
are  about  half-boiled.  Pour  on  the  second  water  from  a  boil- 
ing kettle,  throwing  in  a  little  salt.  When  Onions  are  used 
as  stuffiaig,  in  combination  with  other  substances,  they  should 
first  be  chopped  very  small  and  thrown  into  boiling  water,  and 
boiled  for  about  five  minutes  ^  they  should  then  be  put  in- 
to a  colander  to  drain,  and  pressed  till  not  a  drop  of  water 
remains.  If  they  are  then  mixed  with  the  other  ingredients, 
they  can  be  eaten  without  any  inconvenience  or  injury  to  the 
stomach.  Roasted  and  fried  Onions  should  be  avoided  by 
persons  of  weak  digestive  powers.  There  are  a  multitude  of 
varieties  in  cultivation  :  but  the  most  useful  are  the  following  * 


M  BVlST^i:    FAMELY    KITCHEN    GARDENEE:. 

Strasburg,  or  Yellow  Onion.  Large  oyal,  inclining  to  flat ;, 
very  hardj,  keeps  well  and  of  strong  flavor. 

Silver  Skinned. — ^^Vbite,  flatj  medium  size.  Very  generally 
used  for  pickling. 

Red  Dutch. — Dark  red,  medium  size,  inclining  to  flat,  keeps 
well,  very  hardy,  extensively  grown  in  the  Eastern  states  for 
export,  strong  flavor. 

Portugal^  very  large,  globular,  mild  flavor ;  does  not  keep 
well. 

Potato.,  or  under-ground  Onion ;  produces  a  quantity  of 
young  bulbs  on  the  parent  root^  which  should  be  planted  in 
rows,  in  March,  three  inches  deep  (below  the  surface)  and  six 
inches  from  bulb  to  bulb,  eighteen  inches  being  left  between 
the  rows.  Keep  them  clear  of  weeds,  and  earth  them  up  like 
potatoes,  as  they  continue  to  grow.  They  will  be  fully  grown 
about  the  first  of  August,  when  they  may  be  treated  as  other 
Onions. 

Welsh  or  Tree  Onion. — Much  grown  in  cold  countries^ 
where  the  Onion  does  not  seed  freely.  This  variety  shoots 
up  a  stem  on  which  small  bulbs  grow  in  place  of  seeds.  These 
pea-bulbs  are  kept  till  next  year,  when  they  are  planted  and 
produce  very  good  roots  of  considerable  size,  while  the  stem 
gives  a  farther  supply  for  next  year's  planting.  Th^re  are 
other  varieties  :  such  as  Globe.,  Jameses  Keeping.,  Tripoli^  Read- 
ing., and  Deptford ;  but  none  of  them,  for  this  climate,  sur- 
pass or  even  equal  those  described. 

Culture. — The  soil  in  general  cannot  be  too  rich  for  this 
esteemed  vegetable,  and  however  good  it  may  be,  it  requires 
more  or  less  manure  for  every  crop.  It  is  a  plant  with  a 
mirnber  of  roots,  that  ramify  to  a  great  extent,  absorbing  nour- 
ishment from  every  particle  of  the  soil.  In  regard  to  rotation 
of  crops,  the  Onion  is  an  anomalous  case  :  for  the  same  ground 
has  been  known  to  produce  yearly,  for  nearly  half  a  century; 
Leavy  crops.     I  have  seen  instances  of  twenty-two  successive 


ONION.  85 


crops  of  Onions  from  the  same  ground,  it  having  had  every 
season  a  supply  of  cow,  hog.  or  barn-fowl  manure.  There  are 
hundreds  of  acres  grown  in  this  vicinity  for  shipping  to  the 
southern  market.  The  system  pursued  is  to  manure  the  ground 
heavilj'',  with  the  best  of  dung.  Dig  or  plow  the  ground  early 
in  Spring  ;  level  it  well  with  the  rake  or  harrow  ;  then  with 
the  Beet  rake  draw  drills  about  one  and  a  half  inch  deep  and 
about  nine  inches  apart,  leaving  a  space  of  about  fifteen  inches 
between  every  three  drills,  called  an  alley.  Plant  these  drills 
with  young  Onions,  about  the  size  of  Beans,  and  do  not  cover 
them.  They  will  be  green  in  a  few  days.  Hoe  frequently 
and  keep  clear  of  weeds.  In  June,  dig  the  alleys  and  plant 
them  with  late  Drumhead  Cabbage  and  Savoys  for  a  Winter 
crop,  or  large  York  for  a  Fall  crop.  The  Onions  will  be  ripe 
in  July,  when  they  are  pulled  and  cleared  off.  The  soil  must 
then  be  dug  up  and  well  broken,  to  allow  the  Cabbage  crop  to 
extend  and  grow  freely.  This  is  the  system  pursued  by  our 
market  gardeners  ;  but  one  error  they  all  commit,  and  in  con- 
sequence are  not  able  to  keep  full-grown  Onions  over  Winter, 
the  bulbs  rotting  and  decaying,  from  the  drills  having  been 
drawn  too  deep,  and  pulling  the  crop  two  or  three  weeks  too 
soon.  My  method  is,  after  the  ground  has  been  well  dug  and 
raked  even,  to  roll  it  before  the  drills  are  drawn,  which  must 
not  exceed  half  an  inch  deep,  being  merely  a  mark  whereon  to 
lay  the  sets.  Hoe  to  keep  down  the  weeds  ;  lift  the  crop  after 
the  tops  are  fully  dried  off ;  expose  them  in  the  sun  a  few  days, 
to  harden  them ;  t^ke  them  to  a  shed  and  spread  them  out 
thin,  to  dry  ;  or  tie  them  up  in  ropes  and  hang  them  up  for 
use  ;  by  this  treatment  they  will  keep  perfect  throughout  the 
whole  Winter. 

Sowing  Seed. — The  general  method  is  to  sow  the  seed  very 
thickly,  in  shallow  drills,  early  in  April.  The  bulbs  grow  to 
the  size  of  Peas  or  Beans  by  the  middle  of  July,  when  they 
are  lifted  and  put  away  in  an  airy  loft,  to  keep  till  next  Spring 


86  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

They  are  then  planted  out  in  drills  for  a  full  crop,  as  above. 
Onions  may  be  grown  from  the  seed  in  one  season,  fully  large 
enough  for  culinary  purposes,  and  where  the  soil  is  of  a  deep 
mellow  loam,  on  a  dry  bottom,  which  is  most  genial  to  the 
growth  of  this  bulb,  they  will  grow  equally  as  fine  as  those 
that  have  taken  two  seasons  to  mature.  For  this  purpose,  sow 
the  seed  very  thinly,  (half  an  inch  apart  is  thick  enough,  and 
an  ounce  of  seed  will  be  ample  supply  for  a  family) — in  drills 
nine  inches  apart,  and  as  shallow  as  they  possibly  can  be  drawn. 
Tread  the  seed  in  with  the  foot,  to  make  it  firm.  Sprinkle  a 
very  small  portion  of  fine  earth  over  the  seed,  and  finish  by 
raking  it  evenly.  Within  three  weeks  the  Onions  will  make 
their  appearance,  when,  if  many  weeds  rise  among  them,  they 
must  be  cleared  with  a  small  hoe,  observing  not  to  hoe  deep, 
for  the  more  the  Onion  rises  out  of  the  ground,  it  is  the  finer, 
and  keeps  better.  As  soon  as  the  plants  are  three  inches  high, 
thin  them  out  to  two  inches  apart.  If  the  weather  is  moist, 
the  thinnings  may  be  transplanted  into  other  ground.  They 
too  will  attain  a  full  size,  but  observe,  in  planting,  to  put  the 
roots  only  under  ground.  The  plants  being  now  two  inches 
apart,  as  they  grow,  every  alternate  one  should  be  pulled  for 
immediate  use,  either  for  soups  or  salads,  leaving  the  crop  four 
inches  apart  in  the  row.  Nothing  further  will  be  required 
until  they  are  pulled  up  for  drying,  except  the  keeping  down 
of  weeds,  which  must  be  strictly  attended  to. 

In  moist  seasons,  Onions  are  apt  to  grow  (what  is  termed) 
thick-necked  ;  in  such  cases  they  should,  about  the  end  of  July, 
be  gently  bent  down  with  the  handle  of  the  hoe,  or  the  head 
of  a  wooden  rake,  which  will  check  their  rapid  growth,  and 
cause  them  to  bulb  sooner.  About  the  middle  of  September, 
sow  a  row  or  two  of  Onion-seed  for  early  Spring  use,  before 
any  other  green  salading  or  seasoning  can  be  obtained  ;  the 
plants  will  be  four  inches  high  before  Winter  sets  in  severely, 
when  they  should  have  a  little  rough  litter  thrown  over  them. 
or  a  row  of  Spruce  branches  stuck  among  them  for  protection. 


ONION.  87 


They  will  come  very  acceptably  into  use  in  March  and  April  ; 
or  a  few  of  the  large  Onions  can  be  planted  in  September ; 
they  will  divide  into  several  roots  or  scallions,  and  can  be 
drawn  for  use  as  above,  and  a  few  more  can  be  planted  early 
in  Spring,  to  draw  for  the  same  purpose. 

Seed  Saving. — It  is  very  important  to  have  good  seed,  there- 
fore, select  the  most  uniform  roots  in  September,  and  plant 
them  fully  under  ground,  in  rows  one  foot  apart,  and  two  feet 
from  row  to  row.  Let  the  ground  be  in  excellent  condition, 
for  the  stronger  the  plants,  the  finer  the  seed,  which  will  be 
ripe  in  July  or  August,  according  to  the  weather.  As  soon  as 
the  heads  begin  to  open  and  show  the  black  seeds,  they  must  be 
cut  ofi"  and  put  into  a  sheet  to  dry.  Clean  it  out  well  when 
perfectly  dry — all  seeds  keep  best  in  bags  hanging  in  an  airy 
room,  and  Onion  seed  will  be  perfectly  good  for  three  years. 
To  grow  Onions  for  jnckliug,  sow  the  seed  thinly  in  a  bed  in 
March  or  April,  at  the  same  time  that  the  general  crop  is  planted. 
No  further  culture  is  required,  except  hand- weeding,  as  their 
thickness  in  the  bed  will  prevent  their  growing  large,  and  will 
cause  them  to  come  to  maturity  sooner.  They  should  be  lifted 
in  clear  sunshine  weather,  as  it  improves  their  color.  The 
White  or  Silver-skinned  is  the  sort  usually  grown  for  this  pur- 
pose. 

The  Onion  crop  is  an  interesting  portion  of  gardening  to 
every  good  housewife.  She  is  ever  solicitous  that  it  should 
be  full  and  certain.  As  it  requires  to  be  powerfully  ma- 
nured, we  throw  out  the  following  hints  for  her  special  use. 
As  we  have  intimated.  Onions  will  grow  on  the  same  soil  year 
after  year,  without  any  deterioration,  provided  it  is  liberally 
supplied  with  nutrition  ;  for  this  purpose  the  following  ingredi- 
ents, always  plentiful  about  every  house,  and  generally  thrown 
to  waste,  can  be  most  beneficially  applied.  Soot  spread  over 
the  ground,  either  before  or  after  the  crop,  or  thinly  over  the 
young  plants — urine  thrown  over  the  ground  during  the  Winter 


88  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

season — soap-suds,  any  time  in  the  Fall  or  Winter,  in  like 
manner.  These  are  not  mere  theoretic  ideas  ;  they  are  practi- 
cal facts,  which  can  be  illustrated  by  any  person  who  has  the 
materials  at  command.  I  have  seen  Gruano  used  to  this  crop, 
both  with  bad  and  beneficial  results.  At  the  rate  of  four  hundred 
pounds  to  the  acre,  the  Onions  were  greatly  improved  in  size, 
though  not  in  their  keeping  qualities.  Applied  at  the  rate  of 
eight  hundred  pounds  to  the  acre,  the  roots  of  the  crop  suffered, 
the  plants  got  yellow,  and  did  not  fully  recover  their  appearance. 
This  manure  should  always  be  used  in  a  liquid  state,  and 
about  the  strength  of  twenty-five  pounds  to  a  hogshead  of  wa- 
ter, to  be  applied  after  having  stood  twenty-four  to  forty-eight 
hours — urine  can  be  used  in  the  same  manner,  after  being  re- 
duced with  six  parts  of  water.  Every  good  householder  who 
cultivates  a  garden,  should  have  a  large  cask,  in  some  retired 
corner,  to  form  a  deposit  for  the  refuse  of  the  wash-house, 
which  can  be  reduced  with  a  part  of  water,  and  applied  to  all 
vegetable  crops  in  time  of  need ;  or  where  the  soil  is  not  rich 
enough,  the  plants  can  be  fully  watered  with  it,  in  the  evening, 
once  a  week  while  they  are  in  a  growing  state. 


OKRA,    OR    OCHRO. 

Hibiscus  esculentus. —  Go?nbo,  Fr. 

This  plant  has  been  introduced  to  our  notice  and  table  from 
the  West  Indies,  where  it  is  cultivated  to  some  extent  as  a 
vegetable.  The  green  seed  pods  are  put  into  soups,  or  stewed 
and  served  up  with  butter.  It  is  becoming  very  popular  with 
us,  and  grown  to  a  great  extent  by  some  gardeners  for  sup- 
plying the  market. 

Culture. — The  seeds  are  sown  thinly,  on  dry,  warm  soil,  in 
shallow  drills  two  feet  apart,  about  the  same  time  as  the  Lima 
Bean.     Cover  the  seeds  lightly.     Sometimes  they  come  up 


PAI^SLEV.  89 


and  are  cut  off  with  the  frost ;  if  so.  plant  again.  An  ounce 
of  seed  will  supply  any  family.  After  the  plants  are  ujp,  thin 
them  out  to  nine  inches  apart :  hoe  freely,  and  draw  a  little 
earth  to  the  stems  as  they  continue  to  grow.  They  will  reach 
the  height  of  five  feet  in  good  soil.  The  pods  must  be  gath- 
ered when  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long  and  quite  green.  As 
soon  as  they  become  brown  and  hard,  they  are  useless  for  the 
kitchen. 


PARSLEY. 

A'pium  PctroseVinum. — Persil,  Fr. — Fetersille,  Ger. 

The  Garden  Parsley  is  a  biennial  plant,  a  native  of  Sardinia, 
and  is  a  very  useful  and  pleasant  vegetable ;  esteemed  for 
many  qualities  besides  that  of  garnishing.  Its  seasoning  fla- 
vor, for  soups  and  stews,  is  very  agreeable  to  many.  It  also 
counteracts  the  smell  of  the  breath  after  eating  Onions.  It 
may  be  preserved  for  seasoning,  by  drying  it  till  crisp,  in  Sum- 
mer ;  then  rub  it  up  fine  between  the  hands,  and  put  it  away 
in  a  bottle  for  Winter  use. 

CuLTiTRE. — The  Curled  variety  only  should  be  cultivated. 
It  is  more  beautiful  as  a  garnish  than  the  plain,  and  requires 
very  little  more  attention  to  keep  it  pure.  Seed  growers  are 
not  generally  particular  enough  with  this  simple  article  ;  they 
ought,  before  the  plants  go  to  seed,  to  pull  up  all  those  that 
offer  to  be  plain,  reserving  only  those  that  are  beautifully 
curled.  Sow  it  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep,  early  in  April. 
These  drills  may  form  an  edging  round  any  compartments  of 
vegetables,  or  along  the  walks.  It  will  remain  from  four  to 
six  weeks  before  it  vegetates,  and,  what  is  rather  remarkable, 
seed  four  years  old  will  vegetate  sooner  than  seed  of  the  pre- 
ceding year.  As  soon  as  the  plants  get  three  or  four  inches 
high,  thin  them  to  six  inches  apart ;  cut  down  about  a  third 


90  buist's  family  k%chen  gardener. 

part  at  a  time,  by  which  means  a  young  stock  will  be  kept 
constantly  for  use.  Should  any  of  the  plain-leaved  appear, 
root  it  out.     An  ounce  of  seed  will  suffice  for  any  family. 

To  have  fresh,  green  Parsley,  at  all  seasons,  should  be  the 
aim  and  ambition  of  every  gardener,  and  it  is  rather  a  matter 
of  surprise  that  our  markets  and  tables  are  not  more  liberally 
supplied  with  this  valuable  Winter  garniture.  Keep  it  only 
from  severe  frost,  and  it  will  grow  the  whole  Winter.  For 
this  object,  select  a  warm  spot  of  ground,  light  and  rich,  four 
feet  by  six ;  sow  it  early  in  the  season  ;  treat  the  plants  as  di- 
rected above;  cut  them  all  over  in  September,  surround  the  bed 
early  in  November  with  boards,  and  cover  with  mats  or  shut- 
ters :  if  glass  can  be  obtained,  so  much  the  better.  By  this 
process  a  sufficient  supply  in  the  severest  weather  will  be  al- 
ways obtainable.  If  a  frame  and  sash  are  out  of  reach,  pro- 
cure some  branches  of  Spruce,  Pine,  or  Cedar,  and  cover  the 
bed  during  December,  January,  and  February.  It  will  grow 
tolerably  well  under  such  protection. 


PARSNEP. 

Vastindca  Sativa. — Panais^  Fr. — Pastinake,  Ger. 

The  Parsnep  is  a  biennial  plant ;  that  is,  a  plant  that  lives 
two  years,  seeds,  and  dies,  like  the  Onion,  Carrot,  and  Tur- 
nip. It  is  a  native  of  Europe,  and  is  a  profitable  and  desirable 
root  for  family  use  in  Winter  and  Spring,  being  both  whole- 
some and  nourishing,  and  should  be  cultivated  abundantly  in 
every  kitchen  Garden.  Parsneps  contain  a  considerable  portion 
of  sugar,  and  are  more  nourishing  than  either  Carrots  or  Tur- 
nips. They  make  an  excellent  marmalade.  Wine  also,  to 
some  extent,  is  made  from  them.  They  are  principally  used 
at  the  table  with  boiled  meats,  though  they  make  a  very  ex- 
cellent dish  after  being  boiled,  sliced  thinly,  and  dipped  into 


PAE.SNEP.  9 1 


a  thin  batter  of  flour  and  butter,  or  eggs,  and  afterwards  fried 
brown.  In  my  native  country,  Scotland,  they  are  beaten  up 
with  potatoes  and  butter,  and  eaten  with  milk,  making  a  very 
agreeable  cottage  dish.  In  an  agricultural  view  they  are  val- 
uable, for  milch  cows  eat  them  with  avidity,  and  yield  an 
abundance  of  milk  of  rich  and  pleasant  flavor,  being  preferable 
to  the  Carrot  or  Turnip  for  the  purpose,  which  impart  their 
taste  to  the  milk.  There  are  three  varieties  of  the  Parsnep, 
two  only  of  which  are  desirable. 

Guernsey  Farsnep,  an  improved  variety  of  the  Common, 
grows  large,  and  in  deep  light  soils  will  attain  the  length  of 
two  feet. 

Sugar,  or  Halloio  Crown. — This  is  the  best  variety  for 
Garden  culture.  It  is  of  more  uniform  growth,  has  a  smoother 
and  cleaner  tuber,  and  is  equally  as  hardy  and  better  flavored 
than  the  former,  from  which  it  is  easily  distinguished  by  the 
leaves  arising  from  a  cavity  on  the  top,  or  crown  of  the  root. 

Culture. — Any  soil  suitable  for  Carrots  will  be  found  fa- 
vorable for  the  Parsnep.  Deep  sandy  loam  is  their  delight. 
If  it  is  not  naturally  so,  it  should  be  dug  twenty  inches  deep, 
as  directed  for  trenching,  page  8.  Sow  any  time  from  March 
to  May,  in  drills,  one  inch  deep  and  fourteen  inches  from  drill 
to  drill.  Scatter  the  seeds  thinly,  and  cover  neatly  and  evenly 
with  the  rake.  As  the  plants  grow,  thin  them  out  occasionally 
and  finally,  till  they  stand  eight  inches  apart  in  the  row.  In 
three  weeks  the  seeds  will  appear,  from  which  period  till  the 
leaves  cover  the  ground,  the  soil  must  be  stirred  with  the  hoe 
every  week  or  two.  In  October  the  leaves  will  begin  to  turn 
yellow,  which  is  a  certain  sign  of  their  maturity.  They  may 
then  be  dug  up  for  use,  as  they  are  wanted.  They  will  stand 
any  severity  of  frost,  so  that  it  is  necessary  only  to  lift  as  many 
as  will  supply  the  family  till  the  frost  leaves  the  ground.  They 
should  be  lifted  their  full  length,  and  not  cut  with  the  spade, 
which  injures  them.     Store  away  a  sufficient  supply  for  Winter 


92  buist's  family  kitchen  gardenep.. 

use,  in  time  af  severe  frost,  leaving  a  balance  in  the  ground 
for  Spring  supply,  and  some  to  go  to  seed.  The  seed  keeps 
only  two  years — an  ounce  will  supply  a  family. 


PEA. 

Plsum  Sativum. — Pois^  Fr. — Erbse,  Ger. 

The  Pea  is  of  great  antiquity  as  a  culinary  vegetable,  and 
is  familiar  in  the  domestic  cookery  of  every  country.  It  is  an 
annual,  the  seed  being  sown  and  matured  in  the  same  season, 
and  in  some  varieties  in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time. 
They  are  considered  a  pleasant  and  nourishing  food,  having 
the  character  of  purifying  the  blood  and  correcting  scorbutic 
humors.  In  flavor  and  quality  there  is  as  great  a  difference 
in  the  Pea  as  in  any  vegetable  with  which  I  am  acquainted, 
though,  from  observation,  cultivators  nd  even  cooks  have  little 
knowledge  of  the  quality  and  flavor  of  the  different  varieties 
in  cultivation.  Some,  when  merely  plain  boiled  and  seasoned, 
are  of  themselves  a  luxury ;  others  require  more  assistance 
from  the  culinary  art  to  make  them  palatable.  It  is  not  our 
object  to  detail  the  various  modes  of  cooking,  yet  we  confess 
that  we  have  seen  them  mis-boiled.  .  The  earlier  sorts  take  from 
half  an  hour  to  three  quarters ;  the  Marrow-fats,  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes,  according  to  age.  To  have  their  flavor  per- 
fect, they  should  be  picked,  shelled,  and  cooked,  all  within  three 
or  four  hours.  When  kept  over  night  their  quality  is  greatly 
impaired.  Some  prefer  them  boiled  with  a  bunch  of  mint ; 
t  e  only  seasoning  admitted  by  others,  is  a  little  salt  in  the 
water. 

We  will  not  detail  the  numerous  sorts  we  grow  or  are  ac- 
quainted with,  but  the  following  will  be  found  most  useful 
for  market  or  family  supply.  They  are  those  most  noted  for 
their  quality,  and  are  arranged  in  the  order  in  which  they 
come  to  maturity. 


PEA.  93 

Prince  Albert. — A  dwarf  grower,  pods  and  pea  small,  four 
days  earlier  than  any  variety  we  have  yet  tried,  good  flavor. 

Extra  Early. — A  very  early  Pea  that  has  been  cultivated  in 
this  vicinity  about  fifty  years,  and  was  exclusively,  for  a  long 
period,  in  the  possession  of  a  Mr.  Cooper,  near  Camden,  N.  J., 
who,  I  am  informed,  obtained  the  seed  from  a  German  emigrant. 
It  is  the  sort  most  extensively  cultivated  for  our  market,  and 
for  that  purpose  is  preferable  to  any  other,  the  crop  being 
nearly  all  ready  at  once,  when  the  ground  can  be  cleared  for  a 
crop  x)f  Beans,  or  late  Tomatoes. 

Early  Grotto. — A  very  superior  family  early  Pea,  both  in 
size  and  flavor  ;  three  or  four  days  later  than  the  former,  and 
continues  a  much  longer  time  in  bearing. 

Early  May. — A  fine  early  variety,  good  flavored,  and  very 
productive. 

Early  Frame. — A  very  celebrated  Pea  in  Europe,  where  its 
hardiness  makes  it  a  general  fiivorite.  It  is  an  abundant  bearer 
and  an  excellent  family  Pea. 

Early  Charlton. — A  very  hardy  early  Pea,  which  comes  in 
well  as  a  secondary  crop. 

BishojPs  Dwarf. — A  very  remarkable  dwarf  variety,  requiring 
no  stakes  nor  support  of  any  kind,  except  the  earth  drawn  to 
its  stems.  It  is  very  prolific,  but  does  not  do  to  sow  late,  as  it  is 
subject  to  mildew.  It  can  be  sown  in  rows  eighteen  inches  apart. 
Draw  the  earth  more  to  one  side  of  the  plants  than  the  other, 
which  will  lay  them  all  in  one  position,  from  which  the  crop 
can  be  more  conveniently  gathered. 

The  above  varieties,  with  the  exception  of  Bishop's  Dwarf, 
should  be  sown  about  three  feet  apart.  Give  them  all  stakes 
or  rods,  for  the  double  purpose  of  protecting  them  from  the 
wind  and  to  support  the  vines.  With  stakes  the  crop  can  be 
more  readily  gathered,  and  the  plants  will  mature  every  pod. 
A  quart  of  early  Peas  will  sow  four  drills,  each  thirty  yards  long, 

B.oyal  Dioarf. — This  succeeds  the  early  varieties.  It  grows 
between  three  and  four  feet  high. 


94  euist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

B.ue  Marrow. — A  fine  large  Pea,  very  prolific  and  well  fla- 
vored, sown  about  first  of  May,  will  be  fit  for  tlie  table  about 
tbe  fourth  of  July. 

White  Marrow. — Very  generally  cultivated,  but  is  far  sur- 
passed by  the 

Matchless  Marroiv,  being  larger,  equally  as  productive,  and 
superior  in  flavor  ;  grows  five  feet  high. 

TVoodford  Marrow. — A  very  green  Pea,  and  boils  without 
losing  color.  It  makes  the  most  beautiful  dish  of  gree7i  FeaSj 
and  is  an  excellent  bearer. 

Surprise,  if  sown  about  the  twentieth  of  March,  will  be  fit 
for  the  table  about  the  twelfth  of  June.  A  very  excellent  late 
Pea,  of  large  size,  and  superior  flavor. 

Sugar  Pea. — So  called  from  its  flavor.  It  is  usually  boiled 
in  the  pods  whole,  only  drawing  the  thread  from  the  back  of 
the' pod  before  it  is  put  into  the  water.  It  can  also  be  cooked 
in  the  usual  way  :   a  very  sweet  Pea  ;  grows  five  feet  high. 

lOiight^s  Dwarf  Marrow. — This  is  called  Dwarf,  though  it 
grows  five  feet,  and  should  be  sown  in  drills  at  least  that  dis- 
tance apart. 

Knighfs  WrinJded  Marrow. — There  are  several  varieties  of 
this,  all  of  first-rate  excellence.  Though  the  ripe  seed  are 
peculiarly  wrinkled  and  very  untempting,  yet  the  green  fruit 
are  exceedingly  fine  flavored. 

Scimitar. — A  large  Pea  and  abundant  bearer  ;  takes  its 
name  from  the  shape  of  the  pods  ;  it  is  well  flavored.  Sown 
about  the  first  of  May  ;  it  will  be  ready  about  the  sixth  of  July. 

New  Mammoth. — A  very  tall-growing  Pea,  requiring  rods 
six  feet  high  ;  a  great  bearer,  of  large  size,  and  perhaps  the 
very  best  flavored  Pea  grown.  The  only  objection  to  it,  is  the 
quantity  of  ground  it  occupies.  They  should  be  planted  two 
inches  apart  in  the  drills,  and  six  feet  from  row  to  row.  A 
quart  will  plant  three  rows,  each  thirty  yards  long.  If  sown 
about  the  first  of  May,  it  will  be  ready  about  the  1 2th  of 
July 


PEA.  95 

British  Queen. — A  wrinkled  marrow  Pea,  of  large  size,  and 
luscious  flavor,  grows  five  to  sis  feet  high  ]  a  new  Pea  of  great 
excellence. 

There  are  twenty  or  twenty-five  other  varieties  of  the  Pea, 
but  to  go  into  a  detail  would  he  merely  repeating  what  we 
liave  already  said.  They  are  generally  mere  varieties  of  those 
given,  and  so  closely  assimilated,  that  a  name  constitutes  in 
most  instances  the  only  difference.  The  above  list  embraces 
varieties  that  become  fit  for  the  table  in  from  six  to  ten  weeks  ; 
and  by  repeated  sowings,  judiciously  made,  the  garden  will  be 
supplied  with  Peas  from  May  to  frost.  We  believe  that  there 
is  no  vegetable  in  the  catalogue  so  universally  agreeable  as 
the  Pea.  "VYe  have  never  heard  any  one  say  they  could  not  eat 
well-cooked  green  Peas,  and  it  should  be  an  emulation  to 
have  them  always  at  least  in  their  season. 


Culture. — The  soil  in  which  an  early  crop  of  Peas  is  sown, 
should  be  light,  dry,  and  well  sheltered.  I  have  had  great 
success  with  early  Peas,  by  sowing  a  row  along  the  south  or 
east  side  of  a  board  fence.  This  is  done  as  soon  as  the  frost 
is  out  of  the  ground — in  some  seasons  about  the  first  of  March, 
while  in  others  as  late  as  the  19th.  Such  was  the  Spring  of 
1846,  yet  I  had  Peas  fit  for  the  table  on  the  17th  of  May. 
This  is  no  criterion  of  the  earliness  of  the  Pea,  for  in  1844  I 
sowed  Peas  on  the  30th  of  April,  which  were  fit  for  the  table 
on  the  loth  of  June,  being  within  six  weeks,  and  on  heavy, 
loamy  soil.  Ground  for  Peas  should  be  well  manured  the 
previous  year  ;  if  it  is  heavily  manured  for  the  crop,  it  causes 
thorn  to  grow  more  to  straw  than  seed.  As  soon  as  they  are 
two  inches  high,  draw  earth  to  them,  and  when  they  have 
grown  a  few  inches  more,  repeat  it  again.  When  they  are 
eight  or  ten  inches  high,  this  earthing  greatly  protects  the  vines, 
and  keeps  the  wind  from  driving  them  about.  After  the  final 
earthing  has  been  completed,  stake  them.  The  stakes,  or 
branches  more  properly,  should  be  of  a  fan-form,  and  put  iu 


96  BUIST's    family    kitchen    GARDENEfl. 

the  ground  in  a  slanting  direction.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
row  reverse  the  position  of  the  stakes,  which  affords  the  vines 
more  protection  and  security.  When  they  show  their  first 
blossoms,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  top  off  the  point  of  the  vine 
It  then  ceases  to  grow,  and  throws  all  its  strength  into  the 
pods,  by  whicli  they  swell  off  more  readily.  Early  Peas 
should  be  sown  in  drills  two  inches  deep,  and  the  seeds  about 
one  inch  apart  in  the  drills  and  two  and  a  half  feet  from  drill 
to  drill.  If  stakes  are  scarce,  two  rows  of  Peas  can  be  sown 
six  inches  apart,  and  then  two  rows  the  same  way,  four  feet 
between  each  pair  of  rows.  This  is  the  general  system,  though 
I  do  not  see  what  are  its  advantages.  If  the  same  quantity 
of  seed  be  put  into  one  row,  it  appears  evident  the  product 
will  be  the  same  ;  but  I  have  not  satisfactorily  tried  the  ex- 
periment. The  height  to  which  Peas  grow  very  much  depends 
upon  the  season  and  soil.  Early  sorts,  in  a  dry  Spring,' will 
grow  two  feet,  while  in  a  moist  season  they  will  grow  four. 
Many  of  the  Marrow  Peas  in  some  seasons  will  grow  six  feet, 
and  in  others  ten.  The  spaces  between  the  rows  of  early  Peas 
can  be  planted  with  Lettuce  or  Beans.  The  late  kinds,  where 
the  rows  are  four  to  six  feet  apart,  can  be  planted  with  early 
Celery — the  vines  will  partially  shade  the  young  plants  till 
they  have  taken  root.  The  late  Peas  can  also  go  on  ground 
whence  early  Lettuce  or  Spinach  has  been  taken.  If  the  kinds 
we  have  named  be  sown  from  early  in  Spring  to  the  10th  of  May, 
a  crop  of  young  Peas  will  be  in  constant  succession  from  May 
to  the  end  of  July.  August,  and  the  two  first  weeks  of  Sep- 
tember, in  this  vicinity  and  South,  will  be  in  want  of  green 
Peas,  which  is  very  liberally  supplied  with  the  varieties  of 
Beans.  Early  Peas  may  again  be  sown  about  the  15th  of  Au- 
gust. If  the  weather  be  dry,  soak  the  Peas  twenty-four  hours 
in  water  before  sowing.  Indeed  this  is  an  excellent  practice 
with  all  the  tribe.  When  the  ground  is  dry,  the. drills  should 
have  water  poured  into  them  before  being  planted,  the  seed 
will  then  grow  at  once,  and  not  be  in  the  least  retarded,  should 


PEA.  97 

the  season  continue  dry.  It  will  greatly  prevent  mildew  if 
the  Peas  are  watered  in  continued  droughts. 

The  following  mode  of  staking  the  tall  varieties  of  the  Pea 
is  both  cheap  and  simple,  and  possesses  many  advantages. 
Procure  a  number  of  stakes,  in  length  according  to  the  height 
of  the  Peas,  and  drive  them  into  the  ground  on  each  side  of 
the  row,  at  the  distance  of  six  feet ;  pass  a  small  line  of  cotton, 
or  Onion-twine,  along  the  poles,  taking  a  turn  on  each.  As 
the  Peas  advance,  raise  the  next  line  higher,  and  so  on,  till  they 
have  attained  their  full  height.  Two  lines  will  be  enough,  as 
the  one  line  can  be  raised  over  the  other.  The  air  can  circu- 
late better  through  the  vines  than  by  the  common  method  of 
staking. 

Peas  can  be  successfully  cultivated  by  artificial  means,  and 
a  good  crop  produced  either  in  pits  or  very  gentle  hot-beds. 
For  this  purpose  Bishop's  Early  Dwarf  is  most  suitable.  Sow 
in  pots  or  boxes,  rather  thickly,  and  place  them  close  to  the 
glass  till  they  are  sufficiently  strong  for  transplanting,  when 
they  may  be  carefully  taken  out,  with  the  roots  as  entire  as 
possible,  and  planted  in  frames  or  pits,  from  front  to  back,  in 
rows  fifteen  inches  apart,  and  two  inches  from  plant  to  plant. 
Give  plenty  of  air  by  day,  should  the  weather  admit  of  it,  but 
keep  them  well  covered  at  night.  It  may  be  observed,  that  in 
whatever  way  Peas  are  raised  for  forcing,  they  should  invariably 
be  transplanted.  The  temperature  should  be  from  40°  to  60^. 
When  they  appear  dry,  moderate  waterings  will  be  necessary, 
more  especially  in  time  of  bloom,  and  when  the  pods  are  set- 
ting and  swelling.  Those  who  pay  some  attention  to  the  cul- 
tivation of  this  very  luscious  vegetable,  can  very  readily  have 
them  on  the  table  from  May  to  November  in  all  ordinary  sea- 
eons. 


9V 


PEPPER. 

Capsicum  Annum. — Piment,  Fr. — Spanischer  Pfeffer,  Ger. 

THERELare  several  varieties  of  the  Pepper  cultivated  for 
pickling  and  kitchen  purposes — its  natural  locality  is  very 
generally  diffused  over  all  tropical  countries,  requiring  in  arti- 
ficial culture  a  very  warm  locality,  rich  light  soil,  and  careful 
cultivation.  The  green  pods  or  small  berries  of  all  the  varie- 
ties are  used  for  pickling ;  the  ripe  fruit  is  dried  and  used  in 
small  portions  as  a  seasoning  of  the  hottest  quality. 

Bell,  or  Sweet. — Large  bell-shaped  and  most  esteemed  for 
pickles,  the  skin  being  thick  and  more  pulpy  than  any  of  the 
others. 

Tomato,  or  Flat. — About  the  size  and  shape  of  the  Tomato, 
is  also  very  generally  used  for  the  same  purpose  ;  it  is  of  a 
hotter  nature  than  the  former. 

Cayenne. — Fruit  small,  round,  tapering,  long,  or  curved, 
and  of  the  very  hottest  quality.  We  have  seen  about  twenty 
varieties  of  the  Pepper ;  their  fruit,  when  ripe,  from  about 
the  size  of  Peas  to  the  size  of  Melons,  and  all  of  a  bright  red 
or  bright  yellow  color. 

Culture. — Sow  a  small  portion  of  seed,  thinly,  half  an 
inch -deep,  on  a  hot-bed  or  in  a  pot  in  a  warm  window,  any 
time  in  March  or  April  and  transplant  in  May  or  June,  on  good 
ground,  one  foot  apart,  and  eighteen  inches  from  row  to  row„ 
In  a  mild  climate,  sow  at  the  same  period  in  the  open  ground, 
in  a  small  bed  of  light  soil,  and  transplant  when  three  to  four 
inches  high  during  moist  weather,  or  water  freely  in  time  of 
planting.  As  they  grow,  hoe  fi'equently,  and  earth  up  the 
stems  similar  to  Cabbage. 


98  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

POTATO. 

Solarium  tuberdsum. — Pomme  de  Terre^  Fr. — -Kartoffel^  Ger. 

This  universal  vegetable  is  a  perennial,  well  known  upon 
every  table.  It  is  a  native  of  South  America.  In  the  vicinity 
of  Quito,  they  are  known  under  the  name  of  Papas.  They 
appear  to  have  been  known  in  Virginia  as  early  as  1584,  and 
were  at  that  period  cultivated  by  the  Colonists.  It  is  very 
amusing  to  observe  the  remarks  of  early  writers  upon  their 
character,  some  saying  they  are  only  fit  for  "  swine,"  while 
others  recommend  them  as  a  delicate  dish.  It  is  a  species  of 
a  very  extensive  family  of  plants,  inhabitants  of  every  part  of 
the  globe,  all  of  a  forbidding  aspect,  and  not  a  few  of  them  of 
the  most  deadly  poison,  while  others  are  being  extensively  cul- 
tivated both  as  food  and  luxury  to  man.  Among  them  are  the 
Egg-plant  and  the  Tomato.  We  are  now  arrived  at  a  period 
of  the  history  of  the  Potato  when  there  appears  to  be  a  universal 
scourge  or  blight  passed  over  the  crop,  in  every  country  where 
it  is  cultivated — universal  in  its  effects  and  as  universally  un- 
accounted for,  some  attributing  it  to  one  cause,  while  others 
take  an  altogether  opposite  view.  It  has  always  and  does  still 
appear  to  me  to  be  an  atmospheric  disease,  a  kind  of  Cholera, 
as  I  termed  it  two  years  ago,  which  has  threatened  the  past 
year  nearly  to  extirpate  the  whole  crop.  We  now  predict  that 
it  has  come  to  its  height,  and  another  season  will  produce  a 
more  healthy  crop.  Cultivation  may  promote  health,  though 
it  will  not  avert  the  calamity.  New  soil  in  the  past  year  has 
been  more  genial  to  the  production  of  sound  tubers,  than  old 
cultivated  fields,  though  the  former  has  not  been  entirely  ex- 
empt from  disease.  The  vines  have  always  been  affected  after 
a  few  dull,  cloudy,  moist,  warm  days ;  these,  succeeded  by 
strong  sunshine,  made  visible  the  first  blighting  effects.  To 
cut  off  the  stems  close  to  the  ground,  as  soon  as  the  disease 
appeared,  has  invariably  benefited,  and  in  many  instances,  en- 


POTATO.  99 


tirely  saved  the  tubers,  and  we  still  hope  that  this  root,  which 
has  been  for  many  years  a  luxury  to  the  rich  and  bread  to 
the  poor,  will  yet  continue  to  improve,  as  it  has  done  during 
the  past  hundred  years.  On  the  quality  of  the  Potato,  as 
used  for  food,  a  few  words  will  suffice.  It  is  the  most  nutri- 
tious of  vegetables,  where  it  agrees  with  the  constitution,  which 
is  almost  invariably  the  case,  excepting  some  few  instanced 
where  there  is  a  spare  or  thin  habit  of  body.  To  those 
who  take  much  exercise  in  the  open  air,  it  is  excellent  food, 
and  yields  a  very  considerable  amount  of  nourishment. 

Too  little  attention  is  generally  paid  to  the  dressing  of  it ; 
for  an  ind liferent  potato  becomes  good  when  well  cooked,  and 
a  superior  one  gains  every  attraction  that  an  appetite  can  de- 
sire. 

An  untinned  iron  saucepan  is  preferable  to  any  other  for 
boiling  potatoes.  In  preparing  them,  they  should  never  be 
peeled,  or  much  of  their  nutritious  quality  is  lost.  They  only 
require  to  be  washed  clean,  and  at  farthest  to  be  slightly 
scraped.  After  soaking  in  water  for  an  hour,  put  them  into  the 
saucepan,  with  cold  water  sufficient  to  cover  them ;  when  it 
begins  to  boil,  let  a  cupful  of  cold  water  be  put  in,  which  will 
check  the  boiling,  and  allow  time  for  the  potatoes  to  be  done 
through,  without  their  being  in  any  danger  of  breaking. 
When  they  are  sufficiently  soft,  which  may  be  known  by  try- 
ing them  with  a  fork,  pour  off  the  water,  and  let  the  pot  with 
the  potatoes  continue  for  a  short  time  over  a  gentle  fire,  and 
the  heat  will  cause  any  remaining  moisture  to  evaporate ;  when, 
after  being  peeled,  they  will  be  fit  for  the  table.  By  this  me- 
thod of  cooking,  if  strictly  adhered  to,  they  will  be  found 
raore  palatable  than  under  any  other. 

Various  States  and  places  have  their  favorite  sorts.  To 
enter  into  a  general  detail  of  their  merits,  would  only  produce 
conflicting  opinions,  for  we  are  certain  that  what  may  do  well 
in  one  State  or  country  would  fail  in  another.  Mercer  and 
Foxite  for  Pennsylvania.  Pink-eyes  and  Mercer  for  New- Fork, 


iOO  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

Winnebagoes  and  Blue  Jackets,  for  more  eastern  countries ; 
but  in  no  part  of  this  country  do  we  find  tlie  English,  Irish,  or 
Scotch  Potatoes  to  succeed.  "We  must  look  to  our  own  exer- 
tions and  industry  in  raising  sorts  from  seed.  If  we  wish 
to  excel  in  quality,  there  is  a  very  extensive  field  for  im- 
provement, and  one  that  we  can  easily  operate  upon  every 
year. 

The  Mercer,  in  this  vicinity,  is  the  universal  favorite.  The 
genuine  sort  is  of  a  longish,  flat,  kidney  form,  with  a  liberal 
quantity  of  eyes,  and  pink-colored  on  the  tapering  end.  Those 
covered  with  knotty  protuberances  are  not  considered  so  pure 
as  those  of  a  uniform  shape.  It  is  very  early,  a  good  bearer 
and  a  good  keeper. 

Fofs  Seedling,  for  garden  culture  and  earliness,  will  be  found 
preferable  to  the  former.  It  is  a  round,  white  Potato,  of  good 
size  and  excellent  flavor,  when  eaten  from  the  ground, 'but 
will  not  retain  its  superior  qualities  for  "Winter  use. 

Foxite. — A  yellowish-white  Potato,  with  the  eyes  much  sunk 
It  is  a  great  favorite  in  some  situations  and  soils,  as  a  late  va- 
riety.   It  is  an  excellent  keeper,  and  well  flavored. 

No  vegetable  varies  more  in  quality  in  difierent  soils  than 
this  ;  for  a  sort  that  will  be  pleasant  and  well-flavored  in  one 
soil,  will  be  coarse  and  rank  in  another.  One  fact  may  be  ob- 
served, that  white  Potatoes  do  best  on  light  soils,  while  red 
will  be  most  productive  on  clayey  or  retentive  soils. 

Culture. — The  first  matter  to  be  considered  is  the  soil, 
which,  if  of  a  sandy  loam,  is  better  calculated  for  the  potato 
than  a  heavy  or  very  clayey  soil.  Though  any  soil  will  do,  it 
must  be  observed  that  the  roots  produced  in  a  light,  are  more 
dry  and  sweeter  than  those  grown  in  a  heavy  soil.  The  finest 
potatoes  are  grown  in  a  new,  light,  rich  loam.  If  the  soil  is 
heavy,  the  manure  used  should  be  composed  of  well-decayed 
leaves,  hor&«  manure,  and  ashes,  well  blended  and  mixed  to- 
gether before  using.     A  good  crop  can  seldom  be  raised  if  this 


POTATO.  10 1 


article  is  sparingly  laid  on.  Two  or  three  inches  thick  is  a 
good  manuring,  but  if  that  quantity  cannot  be  obtained  to 
cover  the  whole  ground,  put  it  three  or  four  inches  thick  in 
the  drill  only  whereon  the  sets  are  laid.  It  is  not  our  purpose 
to  enter  into  a  labored  dissertation  on  the  culture  of  this  escu- 
lent on  a  large  scale,  or  we  could  easily  show  that  it  is  but 
very  imperfectly  understood.  Our  object  at  present  is  garden 
culture,  and  our  remarks  are  intended  to  apply  to  that  branch. 
A  gardener  or  farmer  must  be  very  low  in  the  scale  of  his 
profession,  unless  he  knows  what  crop  is  to  follow  another ; 
and  it  is  a  point  very  necessary  with  potatoes  that  the  ground 
be  roughly  dug  before  Winter,  to  have  the  soil  well  ameliorated 
before  planting.  Presuming  that  the  ground  is  clear  where 
the  late  Cabbage  crop  was  taken  from,  dig  it  deeply  and  turn 
it  up  roughly  for  the  action  of  the  Winter ;  then,  early  in  Spring, 
lay  on  your  manure,  and  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked, 
open  a  furrow  the  full  depth  of  the  spade.  Lay  therein  three 
or  four  inches  of  dung,  on  which  plant  the  sets  with  the  eye 
upward,  ten  inches  apart,  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  from  row 
to  row.  Dig  over  the  ground  and  plant  as  you  proceed.  Sets 
for  planting  should  be  cut  at  least  one  week  before  planting, 
and  spread  out  thin  on  a  floor  to  dry.  Potatoes  of  medium 
size  can  make  from  four  to  six  sets.  There  is  a  great  difference 
of  opinion  in  regard  to  the  size  of  the  potato  to  be  used  for 
the  purpose  of  planting,  some  carefully  selecting  the  largest, 
others  preferring  the  medium,  and  some  retaining  the  smallest. 
We  never  put  any  regard  upon  the  size  of  the  tuber,  though 
we  are  careful  in  observing  the  size  of  the  set.  In  the  event 
of  their  being  small,  we  do  not  cut  them ;  if  of  medium  size, 
we  make  four  to  six  sets  ;  and  if  large,  eight  sets  may  be  made. 
Again,  the  point  of  the  potato  is  considered  more  early  than 
the  root-end,  and  some  only  use  those  eyes  that  are  in  the 
middle.  We  have  never  deemed  this  advantage  worth  much 
attention,  though  for  a  few  very  early  planting  we  give  prefer- 
ence to  those  eyes  nearest  the  point  of  the  tuber.     As  soon 


i02  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

as  they  appear  above  ground,  give  frequent  and  deep  hoeings, 
drawing  earth  carefully  to  the  stems  as  they  advance  in  growth. 
We  assuredly  detest  the  appearance  of  a  weed  among  this 
crop,  and  frequently  mourn  and  almost  weep  over  fields  of  the 
rankest  weeds  where  the  undergrowth  is  potatoes.  What  can 
be  expected  from  such  slovenly  husbandry — ^gardening  we  will 
not  call  it.  The  crop  is  thereby  injured  in  quality  and  quan- 
tity, and  not  only  that,  but  frequently  disease  ensues,  which  is 
attributed  to  the  Potato  degenerating.  What  an  idea !  Degene- 
rate !  no,  never !  All  seeds,  not  only  of  this  vegetable,  but  of 
every  other,  should  be  changed  every  three  years  at  farthest ; 
and  we  would  change  the  kind  of  soil,  or  the  Potato  for  seed, 
every  two  years.  A  change  from  light  soil  to  heavy,  or  the 
reverse,  will  tend  to  benefit  the  quality,  and  if  this  cannot  be 
effected,  change  with  some  of  your  distant  friends,  or  make 
purchase  from  other  States.  We  have  said  that  early  Potatoes 
should  be  planted  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  which 
is  from  the  1st  to  the  20th  of  March.  A  few  may  then  be 
planted  in  a  very  sheltered  place,  where  they  would  not  be 
much  exposed  to  late  frosts.  The  main  crop  should  be  planted 
about  the  15th  to  the  end  of  April.  If  left  till  a  later  period, 
they  are  very  liable  to  be  affected  by  the  droughts  of  Summer, 
and  take  on  an  Autumn  growth,  which  invariably  injures 
the  quality  of  the  tuber.  The  maturity  of  the  crop  is  readily 
known  by  the  whitening  of  the  stems,  though  they  are  fit  for 
the  table  before  that  period.  As  soon  as  they  are  what  is 
termed  half -grown,  a  few  may  be  lifted  for  use.  Those  intended 
for  seed  are  considered  better  adapted  for  the  purpose  if  they 
are  not  perfectly  ripe,  yet  I  doubt  if  this  opinion  is  confirmed 
by  experience.  Writers  on  this  subject  too  frequently  reiter- 
ate the  expressions  of  their  predecessors.  This  is  very  obser- 
vable among  writers  on  horticultural  and  agricultural  sub- 
jects. The  experience  of  Abercrombie,  Speechly  and  Knight 
is  retailed  as  new  matter  for  the  present  age,  (advanced  in 
every  other  science,)  and  is  airaitted  as  being  as  undeniable 


POTATO.  103 


as  any  rule  of  Euclid.  When  passing  through  Ireland,  that 
hot-bed  of  Potatoes,  we  observed  them  transplanting  the  stems 
that  had  grown  six  or  eight  inches  from  one  part  of  the  field 
to  another,  in  the  same  way  that  Cabbages  are  planted,  and  I 
was  informed  the  crop  from  those  were  fully  as  good  as  from 
the  sets  planted  early  in  the  season.  This  operation  can  be 
performed  in  a  country  where  there  is  a  great  deal  of  moist- 
ure, or  during  very  cloudy,  moist  weather,  but  in  dry  arid 
temperatures  it  would  be  a  doubtful  practice. 

Artificial  Culture. — Various  are  the  methods  by  which 
Potatoes  are  forced,  such  as  in  frames,  pits,  hot-beds,  under 
glass,  or  under  shutters  and  mats.  Whichever  of  these  con- 
veniences may  be  at  hand,  let  there  be  from  twenty  inches  to 
two  feet  of  good  manure  in  the  bottom,  over  which  place 
eighteen  inches  of  good  soil.  Plant  thereon  your  sets  of 
Fox's  Seedling,  and  cover  them  with  four  inches  of  earth.  It 
is  necessary  that  when  finished  the  materials  should  be  within 
six  or  eight  inches  of  the  glass.  Sow  over  all  some  Early 
Short-top  Scarlet  Radish,  which  will  be  off  before  the  Potatoes 
can  be  affected  by  their  growth.  To  prevent  their  becoming 
long  and  spindling,  give  air  on  every  favorable  occasion,  when 
there  is  sunshine,  from  ten  to  three  o'clock,  protecting  them 
carefully  at  night.  A  few  Lettuce  may  also  be  planted  be- 
tween the  rows.  They  can  be  cut  off  as  soon  as  they  are  in 
the  way.  This  is  making  the  most  of  every  iuch  of  ground, 
and  every  industrious  gardener  knows  the  value  of  time  and 
space. 

New  Sorts  from  Seed. — We  can  never  have  Potatoes  en- 
tirely suitable  to  our  climate  till  we  obtain  such  from  seed — an 
operation  rarely  if  ever  attended  to  properly.  For  these  ex- 
periments the  field  is  very  large,  and  certain  to  be  crowned 
with  successful  results.  A  single  apple^  as  they  are  called, 
collected  in  September  or  October,  will  produce  two  dozen 


i04  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

new  kinds ;  and  if  even  half  a  peck  of  apples  were  collected,  sep- 
arate and  wash  the  seeds  from  the  pulp,  dry  them,  and  wrap 
them  up  in  strong  paper  till  Spring :  about  the  middle  of 
April,  prepare  a  bed  of  fine  earth,  draw  shallow  drills  thereon 
six  inches  apart  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  ;  sow  the  seeds 
thinly,  and  cover  lightly  with  very  fine  earth.  They  will  come 
up  in  two  or  three  weeks.  When  they  are  two  inches  high, 
thin  out  a  portion,  lifting  them  very  carefully  with  a  trowel,  and 
transplant  them  into  a  piece  of  well  prepared  ground,  four 
inches  apart  and  eight  inches  from  row  to  row.  Choose  a 
moist,  cloudy  day  for  the  purpose,  hoe  them  freely,  and  earth 
them  up  a  few  times  during  the  season.  Treat  the  bed  in 
like  manner.  In  October,  the  roots  will  furnish  a  supply  of 
small  Potatoes,  which  must  be  taken  up  and  a  portion  of  the 
best  preserved  in  sand  during  Winter,  to  be  planted  next 
Spring  in  the  usual  way.  After  they  have  had  the  ensuing 
Summer's  growth,  in  October  their  tubers  will  have  attained 
a  sufficient  size  to  determine  their  properties.  It  will  be  ne- 
cessary to  consider,  not  only  the  flavor  of  each  variety,  but  the 
size,  shape,  color  and  fertility ;  also  the  earliness  or  lateness, 
rejecting  all  that  have  not  every  quality  combined,  for  only 
such  are  worthy  of  permanent  culture.  It  will  thus  be  seen 
that  with  very  little  care  and  a  little  labor,  new  varieties  may 
be  produced  and  proven  in  the  short  space  of  two  or  three 
years. 

Potatoes  intended  for  keeping  should  be  fully  ripened  be- 
fore being  taken  up.  When  going  through  the  process  of  lift- 
ing, drying,  and  storing,  they  should  be  handled  with  care, 
not  filled  up  and  emptied  down  as  if  they  were  as  many  stones. 
After  having  gone  through  this  stone-casting  process,  nearly 
every  Potato  shows  its  eifects  when  brought  to  the  table,  be- 
ing covered  with  bruised  marks  in  proportion  to  their  rough 
treatmeni  ;  whereas,  if  they  are  managed  properly,  every  tuber 
would  be  as  sound  as  on  the  day  of  its  removal.  Dry  cellars, 
free  from  frost,  are  the  most  appropriate  places  of  storage,  and 


PUMPKIN RADISH.  105 

if  they  have  a  covering  of  sand  they  will  not  lose  a  particle  of 
their  flavor.  If  sand  or  dry  earth  is  not  used,  give  them  a 
covering  of  straw,  to  prevent  the  air  from  giving  the  outside 
Potatoes  an  acrid  taste.  Towards  the  end  of  January  and  Feb- 
ruary, they  should  have  a  regular  turning,  to  prevent  their 
sprouting.  If  any  have  begun  to  grow,  pick  off  the  growths. 
They  will  require  this  operation  repeated  every  few  weeks 
while  they  are  in  the  cellar.  If  this  is  not  carefully  attended 
to,  and  the  Potatoes  allowed  to  grow  to  any  extent,  they  will  lose 
much  of  their  farinaceous  quality.  It  is  also  very  essential  to 
turn  over  frequently  those  intended  for  seed,  to  prevent  a  pre- 
mature growth.  The  greater  the  vegetative  power  of  the  set, 
the  finer  and  stronger  will  they  grow. 


PUMPKIN,    OR    POMPION. 

Cucurbita,  var. —  Courge,  Fr. — Kurbis.  Ger. 

We  cannot  think  of  admitting  this  vegetable  into  the  pre- 
cincts of  a  garden  where  there  are  Melons,  Cucumbers,  and 
other  kindred  plants.  It  wouM  mix  with  and  contaminate  the 
quality  of  the  more  valuable  sorts.  If,  however,  there  is  an 
opportunity  to  plant  a  few  in  the  field,  among  the  Corn,  we 
would  recommend  among  the  many  sorts,  the  Cashaw^  as  be- 
ing the  best.  There  is  a  variety  of  a  very  coarse  nature  cul- 
tivated in  the  field,  called  the  Mammoth^  which  .frequently  at- 
tains the  enormous  weight  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds, 
and  is  only  fit  for  pigs  or  cattle. 


RADISH. 

Rdphanus  Sativus. — Rave,  Fr. — Reltig,  Grer. 

The  native  country  of  this  well-known  salad  plant  is  sup- 
posed to  be  China.     It  is  valued  by  us  for  its  agreeable  pun^ 


IQ6  BUisi'^s  e'amily  kitchen  gap.denee. 

gency  and  grateful  relish  when  mixed  with  salads,  or  eaten 
raw  with  bread  and  biitter.  They  are  supposed  to  possess  me- 
dicinal qualities,  abounding  with  a  penetrating,  nitrous  juice, 
rendering  them  a  good  antiscorbutic.  It  is  not  admitted  that 
they  contain  much  nourishment.  They  should,  however^, 
when  eaten,  be  very  brisk  and  sprightly,  always  youngs 
not  tough,  thready,  nor  overgrown.  The  young  leaves  make 
an  agreeable  mixture  with  Lettuce,  Mustard,  &c.,  as  a  green 
salad.  There  is  an  immense  quantity  of  this  article  consumed 
in  the  Spring  and  early  Summer  season.  It  is  a  never-ending 
crop.  Being  of  a  rapid  growth,  it  is  up  and  consumed  before 
the  crops  of  Beets,  Carrots,  &c.,  make  any  headway,  so  that  it 
occupies  no  ground  as  a  crop  by  itself  There  are  many  vari- 
eties, among  which  we  select  the  following  as  most  desirable. 

Scarlet  Short-iop. — This  is  a  long,  tapering  Radish,  of  a  good 
scarlet  color,  with  very  short  leaves.  It  is  preferred  by '  all 
gardeners,  as  it  requires  much  less  room  than  those  with  large 
tops,  and  is  also  the  very  earliest  variety,  when  obtained  pure. 

Early  Salmon. — Very  similar  to  the  former,  though  not  of 
so  bright  a  color,  and  is  a  few  days  later.  It  succeeds  it  very 
conveniently,  and  is  of  the  same  shape. 

Olive-shaped. — -This  variety  appears  to  be  between  the  Scar- 
let Short-top  and  the  Bed  Turnip  Badish,  partaking  of  both 
shapes  (being  a  long  oval)  and  maturing  for  the  table  between 
those  two  varieties. 

White  Turnip-rooted.  —  Very  appropriately  named,  and 
highly  esteemed.  It  succeeds  those  already  described  in  ma- 
turing, and  will  bear  the  heat  better,  without  becoming  hard 
and  stringy. 

Red  Turnip-rooted. — In  shape  and  size  like  the  White,  ma- 
tures at  the  same  time,  and  when  grown  with  it,  makes  a  beau- 
tiful variety  on  the  table. 

Long  White  Portugal. — A  very  beautiful  variety,  in  the 
(shape  of  the  Early  Short-top.  It  does  not  come  so  soon  as 
that  sort,  but  makes  a  decided  contrast  with  it. 


RADISH.  107 


White  Summer. — A  large,  long,  oval  variety  ;  cultivated  for 
early  Summer  use,  is  of  an  excellent,  mild  flavor,  bears  the 
lieat  well,  and  is  a  beautiful  variety. 

Yellow  Summer,  or  Yellow  Turnip-rooted.  —  The  very  best 
for  cultivating,  and  indeed  the  only  one  that  stands  the  heat 
and  drought  with  impunity.  It  is  about  an  inch  and  a  half 
or  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  from  two  to  three  inches  long. 

Black  Spanish. — This  is  a  Winter  Radish,  of  very  large 
size ;  Turnip  form.  It  should  be  sown  in  August  and  Sep- 
tember, lifted  in  October  or  November,  and  stored  away  in 
sand  in  the  cellar  for  supplying  the  table  in  Winter.  It  will 
keep  good  till  the  following  April. 

Culture. — There  are  few  vegetables  that  require  less  arti- 
ficial care  and  culture  than  the  Radish.  For  the  Spring  crop, 
it  likes  a  light,  rich,  dry,  sandy  loam ;  but  for  later  crops,  a 
deep,  moist  soil  is  preferred.  The  first  sowing  should  be  made 
on  a  south  or  east  border,  with  the  Early  Turnip-Rooted 
Beets.  The  Radish  seed  may  be  sown  in  drills  between  the 
latter,  very  thinly,  covering  them  with  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  of  fine  earth.  If  the  nights  prove  frosty,  cover  the  bor- 
der with  straw,  which  will  greatly  advance  the  crop,  and  pre- 
vent its  destruction.  If  sown  about  the  first  of  March,  and  good 
weather  ensue,  they  will  be  ready  in  the  first  week  of  April. 
A  second  sowing  with  some  other  crop,  such  as  Carrots,  should 
be  made  about  two  weeks  later,  and  at  the  same  time  sow  the 
Turnip-Rooted  varieties.  Another  sowing,  of  all  the  Salmon 
and  Turnip  kinds,  about  the  middle  of  April,  to  be  followed 
with  two  sowings  of  White  and  Yellow  Summer  Radishes,  at  in- 
tervals, will  be  the  principal  crops  for  the  season.  Towards  the 
end  of  August  and  September,  Early  Scarlet  Short-top  may 
again  be  sown  ;  also  the  Black  Spanish,  as  formerly  directed. 
Should  they  be  too  thick,  at  any  time,  when  fairly  up,  they 
must  be  thinned  to  an  inch  apart ;  for  if  allowed  to  grow  crowd- 
ed together  ;   they  will  not  produce  a  crop.     It  will  take  six 


108  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

or  eight  ounces  of  Radish  seed  to  supply  a  family  fully  the 
whole  season,  though  some  writers  amuse  us  by  saying  an 
ounce  or  two  is  enough.  They  must  never  have  sown  an  ounce 
of  Radish  seed  and  seen  its  produce.  If  the  weather  is  dry, 
at  any  of  the  sowings,  the  seed  should  have  a  few  waterings, 
till  it  is  fairly  above  ground  ;  and  even  when  they  are  growing, 
it  is  of  much  service  in  rendering  the  roots  more  crisp  and 
better  flavored. 

Forcing  Radishes. — Very  little  artificial  heat  is  required 
to  grow  them  in  perfection.  Make  a  gentle  hot-bed  about 
eighteen  inches  thick,  on  which  place  a  frame.  Fill  in  one 
foot  of  good,  light,  rich  soil.  After  it  remains  a  few  days,  to 
get  warm  throughout,  sow  the  seeds  rather  thickly.  Spread  a 
small  portion  of  fine  soil  over  them ;  give  the  whole  a  gentle 
press  with  the  back  of  the  spade  ;  put  on  the  sash,  and  keep 
close  till  the  seeds  appear  above  ground  ;  then  air  freely.  If 
the  plants  are  thick,  thin  them  out  at  once  to  about  an  inch 
apart ;  water  occasionally  when  the  soil  appears  to  get  dry. 
If  sashes  are  not  to  be  obtained,  shutters  and  mats  make  a 
tolerable  substitute,  and  after  the  first  of  March,  will  do  per- 
fectly, though  forcing  early  crops  cannot  succeed  without  the 
use  of  good  glass  sash.  The  best  variety  of  Radish  for  the 
purpose  is  the  Long  Scarlet  Early  Short-top,  or  a  variety  of 
it  called  Early  Frame.  We  have  already  alluded  to  the  prac- 
tice of  sowing  Radishes  among  the  Cauliflower  and  Winter 
Lettuce. 

Radishes  sown  for  Seed  should  be  kept  apart  from  any 
other  variety.  If  they  are  within  three  hundred  yards  of  each 
other,  they  will  mix.  Where  the  Early  Scarlet  is  wished  very 
pure,  it  is  our  practice  to  transplant  a  few  thousand  every 
season  to  seed  for  early  forcing.  If  it  cannot  be  kept  so  far 
apart,  save  the  seeds  of  two  kinds  every  year,  for  three  years; 
you  will  then  have  six  sorts  in  culture,  and  the  seed  will  keep 
three  years  perfectly,  if  in  a  dry  place. 


RHUBARB.  109 


RHUBARB. 

Rheum  rkaponticum. — Rubarbe^  Fr. — Rubarber,  Ger. 

The  Rhubarb  of  commerce  is  the  root  of  the  plant,  which  is 
principally  grown  in  Asia,  where  it  is  dried  and  prepared  for 
exportation  to  a  very  great  extent.  It  is  chiefly  purchased  by 
the  Turks,  who  monopolize  the  trade  as  much  as  possible,  and 
from  it  derive  a  large  profit.  It  has  been  for  centuries  held 
in  the  highest  estimation  for  its  medicinal  properties.  It  is  a 
mild  cathartic,  and  commonly  considered  one  of  the  safest  and 
most  innocent  substances  of  the  class,  though  I  have  found 
that  very  large  doses  act  as  a  very  severe  emetic ;  with  its  pur- 
gative virtues,  it  has  a  mild  astringent  one,  and  is  found  to 
strengthen  the  tone  of  the  stomach.  In  addition  to  these  quali- 
ties of  the  root,  the  stalk  is  allowed  by  all  medical  men  to 
make  one  of  the  most  cooling,  wholesome,  and  delicious  tarts 
that  can  be  sent  to  the  table ;  and  though  it  does,  at  first,  ap- 
pear to  some  to  have  a  peculiar  flavor,  yet  they  who  use  it  very 
soon  prefer  it  to  any  other  fruit.  Its  rank  flavor,  however, 
entirely  depends  upon  the  age  of  the  stalks ;  when  young,  they 
are  entirely  free  from  it.  The  varieties  of  Rhubarb  for  cook- 
ing forms  an  object  of  much  interest  and  even  great  profit  to 
the  market  gardener,  and  to  every  householder  who  has  a 
garden  it  cannot  be  too  highly  recommended  as  a  very  salu- 
brious vegetable  for  the  family,  either  stewed  or  in  tarts  and 
pies.  For  dysentery  in  children  it  is  an  infallible  remedy, 
stewed,  seasoned  with  sugar,  and  eaten  in  any  quantity  with 
bread.  The  stalk  is  fit  for  use  when  the  leaf  begins  to  expand. 
Take  the  outside  skin  ofi"  the  stalk,  cut  it  into  pieces  about  an 
inch  long,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  and  cover  them  with  plenty 
of  brown  sugar  and  a  few  table-spoonsful  of  cold  water ;  cover 
it,  and  let  it  stew  slowly  till  perfectly  soft ;  after  having  cooled, 
it  is  ready  for  use.     Few  vegetables  have  made  a  more  rapid 


110  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

progress  in  their  cultivation,  within  the  past  fifteen  years,  than 
this  article,  and  we  yet  expect  to  see  it  cultivated  by  the  hun- 
dred acres  and  brought  to  our  market  in  wagon  loads.  The 
following  sorts  are  all  deserving  of  particular  attention. 

Tobolsk. — A  very  early,  small,  red  variety,  of  excellent  fla- 
vor for  an  early  crop  or  forcing.  It  grows  in  very  rich  ground 
to  about  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  long. 

WasJiinglon. — A  green  variety,  very  much  spotted  on  the 
footstalks,  grows  two  feet  long,  and  is  a  second  early  sort. 

Giant. — A  very  large  green  variety,  with  round  stalks,  that 
will  grow  four  feet  long,  and  nearly  the  thickness  of  a  man's 
wrist.  It  is  cultivated  in  England  to  an  immense  extent,  as 
a  late  variety,  to  supply  the  market  the  whole  Summer. 

Mammoth. — This  sort  was  raised  by  me  from  the  seed  of  the 
former.  It  grows  from  three  to  four  feet  long,  with  stalks  of 
great  thickness,  of  a  flat  shape.  It  has  taken  the  prize  as  the 
best  Rhubarb,  at  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society's 
meetings,  the  past  three  years.     It  is  of  excellent  flavor. 

Myatfs  Victoria. — This  is  a  red  variety,  of  great  excellence 
and  richly  flavored,  grows  very  strong,  equal  to  the  Giant,  and 
much  earlier  than  that  variety ;  is  richly  deserving  of  exten- 
sive culture. 

Large  Early  Red. — A  seedling,  by  me,  from  the  Victoria. 
It  is  even  larger  than  its  parent,  comes  full  eight  days  earlier, 
and  will  prove  the  best  Early  Rhubarb  we  have  yet  had  brought 
to  our  notice.  The  stalks  are  three  feet  long,  and  are  quite 
fit  for  use  before  the  leaf  begins  to  expand.  It  is  richly  fla- 
vored. It  may  be  observed  that  the  red  stalked  sorts  are  gen- 
erally earlier  than  those  with  green  stems. 

Rheum  palmatum^  or  Palmated-leaved  Rhubarb,  is  the  vari- 
ety that  is  cultivated  in  China  and  Tartary  for  its  roots,  and 
in  some  countries  another  species,  the  U?idulatum,  is  grown  for 
the  same  purpose.  There  is  no  doubt  that  all  the  other  vari- 
eties possess  the  same  medicinal  properties  when  they  attain 
sufiicient  age,  which  is  allowed  to  be  seven  years. 


TcHUBARB. 


Culture. — Rhuba-b  is  propagated  either  by  seeds  or  by  di- 
vision of  the  roots.  Where  a  great  quantity  is  wanted,  the  former 
process  will  have  to  be  resorted  to.  Though  the  plants  raised  in 
this  manner  will  not  be  of  a  uniform  character,  yet  from  seeds  of 
the  best  kinds  all  will  be  worth  cultivation.  The  seed  should  be 
sown  as  early  as  can  be  done  in  Spring.  On  light,  dry  soil,  draw 
drills  about  an  inch  deep. and  one  foot  apart,  in  which  sow  the 
seeds  thinly,  and  cover  evenly.  They  will  be  up  in  about  four 
weeks,  and  if  the  weather  proves  dry,  give  them  occasional 
waterings.  Hoe  them  freely  to  keep  under  the  weeds.  Sow 
a  very  few  Radish  seeds  with  them,  and  you  will  thereby  see 
clearly  where  to  use  the  hoe,  and  the  Radishes  will  be  pulled 
before  the  Rhubarb  plants  have  made  much  progress.  When 
they  are  an  inch  high,  thin  them  out  to  four  inches  apart,  and 
allow  them  to  grow  till-October ;  at  which  time  a  piece  of  deep, 
rich  ground  should  be  selected,  and  dug  eighteen  inches  deep, 
manuring  it  well  with  very  rotten  dung,  and  breaking  and 
working  it  perfectly  with  the  spade.  When  it  has  settled  for 
about  two  weeks,  set  out  the  plants  two  feet  apart  in  the  row, 
and  four  feet  between  the  rows.  Plant  their  crowns  two  inches 
below  the  surface,  and  cover  thepi  four  or  five  inches  thick  with 
leaves,  or  litter  from  the  stable,  to  prevent  the  frost  from 
throwing  them  out  of  the  ground  during  Winter.  No  farther 
after-culture  is  required  beyond  keeping  the  ground  clear  of 
weeds.  In  the  first  year  a  crop  of  Lettuce,  Beans,  or  Early 
Cabbage  can  be  taken  from  between  the  rows,  as  the  plants 
will  not  attain  their  full  size  for  two  years.  In  the  early  part 
of  Winter,  every  year,  cover  the  ground  with  a  few  inches  of 
manure,  digging  it  in  with  a  fork,  in  Spring,  among  the  roots. 
Rhubarb,  thus  treated,  will  continue  many  years  in  great  per- 
fection, and  produce  a  very  ample  return.  Where  there  are 
only  a  few  roots  wanted,  they  may  be  procured  by  the  division 
of  one  or  two  good  roots,  leaving  an  eye  to  each,  and  planting 
them  a;  once  in  ground  prepared  as  above,  where  they  are  to 
remain      About  eight  or  ten  plants  will  suffice  for  a  small 


112  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

family,  though  twenty  will  not  be  too  many.  By  this  method 
it  will  be  ready  for  use  in  the  first  year  after  planting,  whereas, 
from  seed,  it  is  three  years  before  it  is  ready  for  the  table.  In 
removing  the  stalks  for  use,  first  scrape  away  a  little  of  the 
earth,  then  bend  down  the  stalk  you  wish  to  remove,  and  slip 
it  off  from  the  crown  without  breaking  or  cutting  it.  The 
stalks  should  not  be  used  after  the  leaves  are  full  grown,  as 
they  are  then  too  hard  and  stringy ;  use  the  stalks  only  of  such 
leaves  as  are  about  half,  or  nearly  fully  expanded.  Where 
there  is  a  large  supply,  it  can  be  made  into  a  preserve  of  any 
kind.  Both  an  excellent  jam  and  jelly  can  be  made  from 
either  the  green  or  red  varieties,  though  the  color  of  that  made 
from  the  latter  is  more  beautiful,  being  a  fine  dark  pink.   • 

Artificial  Culture. — To  force  Rhubarb,  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  procure  some  large  pots,  boxes,  or  half-barrels,  and 
invert  them  over  the  roots.  Then  cover  the  whole  entirely, 
ground  and  all,  with  leaves  and  hot  stable-manure.  This  will 
cause  an  agreeable  heat  to  arise ;  the  plants  will  grow  freely 
under  their  warm,  dark  covering ;  the  stalks  will  be  finely 
blanched,  very  tender,  and  delicately  flavored.  This  opera- 
tion should  be  performed  before  the  ground  gets  frozen,  by 
placing  the  boxes,  &c.,  over  the  plants  intended  to  be  forced, 
and  covering  the  ground  with  eight  or  ten  inches  of  leaves  or 
litter.  Then,  about  the  middle  of  January,  mix  with  the  leaves 
as  many  more,  with  warm  dung,  as  will  entirely  cover  the  arti- 
cles under  which  the  plants  are  preserved.  If  properly  man- 
aged, the  stalks  will  be  fit  for  use  in  from  four  to  six  weeks, 
and  the  plants  will  continue  to  produce  till  the  roots  in  the 
open  air  take  their  place.  They,  too,  are  greatly  benefited  by 
placing  a  barrel  over  them  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  grow  in 
the  Spring ;  the  stems  grow  more  tender  and,  much  longer  by 
ihis  process.  There  should  be  a  few  holes  in  the  barrel,  or  a 
part  of  the  bottom  taken  out  to  admit  a  little  air.  though  it  is 
not  absolutely  essential.      Many  persons  may  dislike  all  this 


RHUBARB.  113 


trouble,  and  others  have  not  the  material  at  command  ;  to 
such,  we  say,  cover  the  roots  with  six  or  eight  inches  of  any 
dry  material,  which  will  forward  them  two  weeks  before  those 
that  are  uncovered.  Others  may  have  the  convenience  of  a 
green-house  under  the  stage,  or  some  other  warm  building — 
even  a  warm  closet,  or  a  furnace  in  the  cellar.  In  such  situa- 
tions the  plants  can  be  forwarded  by  planting  them  in  November 
into  large  pots  or  boxes,  with  good  earth,  and  placing  them  at 
any  required  time  into  any  of  these  situations,  giving  water 
freel}^  when  they  begin  to  grow.  A  crop  will  be  obtained  in  a 
space  of  time  varying  according  to  the  heat  that  is  at  command. 
After  the  plants  have  done  producing  stalks  for  culinary  use, 
they  may  be  turned  out  into  a  half  shady,  rich  piece  of  ground, 
in  May,  when,  after  a  season's  growth,  they  can  again  be  used 
for  the  same  purpose.  Hotbeds,  frames  or  pits,  will  also  do 
for  forcing  this  article ;  but  in  such  a  case,  the  glass  must  be 
darkened  to  cause  them  to  grow  and  blanch.  The  atmosphere 
must  also  be  freely  saturated  with  water,  to  make  the  stalks 
swell  to  their  full  height  and  size.  There  are  two  advantages 
in  blanching  Rhubarb :  first,  the  desirable  qualifies  of  appear- 
ance and  flavor ;  and  secondly,  a  saving  in  the  quantity  of  sweet- 
ening material  to  render  them  agreeable  to  the  taste.  The 
stalks,  when  blanched,  are  more  tender  than  when  grown  under 
the  influence  of  strong  light  and  in  open  situations. 

Culture  in  cold  or  hot  latitudes. — There  is  no  obstacle 
to  the  cultivation  of  this  interesting  plant.  It  will  stand  un- 
protected as  far  north  as  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  yield  annually 
a  large  crop.  North  of  that  limit  all  that  is  necessary  for  its 
preservation  is  to  throw  over  it,  during  Winter,  a  quantity  of 
dry  leaves,  to  keep  off  intense  frost,  and,  as  Spring  opens,  to 
clear  away  the  litter  and  cultivate  the  ground,  as  previously 
directed.  If  there  is  three  months  of  good  sun,  it  is  all  the 
plant  requires  to  mature  it.  Wherever  Oats  will  grow,  the  Rhu- 
barb will  thrive ;  only  give  it  depth  of  soil  for  its  roots,  and 


114  euist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

manure  to  stimulate  its  luxuriance.  In  southern  latitudes  it 
must  be  planted  in  moist  situations,  and  under  the  shade  of 
buildings,  to  ward  off  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun  at  mid-day, 
and  in  dry  periods  it  must  be  watered  freely.  The  whole  of 
this  continent,  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  Hudson's  Bay,  may 
enjoy  the  luxury  of  this  vegetable. 

Its  cultivation  may  be  pursued  to  any  extent  for  its  root  for 
medicinal  purposes.  In  such  a  case,  the  species  TJndulatum 
and  Palmatum  should  be  planted  two  by  four  feet  apart.  They 
should  not  be  robbed  of  their  leaves  at  any  period  of  their 
growth.  After  the  roots  have  been  seven  years  under  culture, 
they  are  then  ready  to  be  lifted.  After  being  washed  thoroughly 
and  deprived  of  their  small  fibres,  cut  the  strong  roots  into 
pieces  about  two  inches  long,  and  these  pieces  lengthwise. 
Thread  them  on  cords  and  hang  them  up  to  dry.  These  cords 
should  be  turned  upside  down  every  day  for  a  week,  to  prevent 
the  juice  settling  in  any  one  part  of  the  root.  They  should 
not  be  laid  on  boards  to  dry,  for  the  board  will  absorb  a  portion 
of  the  juice,  depriving  the  roots  of  so  much  of  their  strength. 
We  doubt  not  but  it  may  thus  be  dried  as  perfectly  in  this  coun- 
try as  in  any  of  those  where  it  is  cultivated  for  export. 


SALSAFY,  OR   VEGETABLE   OYSTER. 


Tragopbgo7h  pdrifolius. — Salsijls,  Fr. 

Salsafy  is  a  hardy  carrot-rooted  biennial,  a  native  of  the  moun- 
tain meadows  of  Switzerland.  It  is  considered  wholesome  and 
nutricious,  and  much  esteemed  by  some  classes,  under  the 
name  of  Oyster-plant,  from  its  flavor  after  being  cooked, 
having  a  considerable  resemblance  to  the  Oyster.  It  makes  an 
excellent  variety  at  the  table,  and  forms  an  agreeable  dish 
throughout  the  Winter  season.  As  the  Oyster  is  a  very  cele- 
brated fish,  and  many  in  the  interior  rarely  obtain  it.  all  may 


SCORZONERA.  J  i^ 


cultivate  this  vegetable,  which  really  makes  a  near  approach  to  it 
in  taste,  when  cooked  in  the  following  manner.  Previous  to 
boiling  the  roots,  let  them  be  slightly  scraped,  and  then  laid 
in  water  for  about  an  hour  ;  then  boil  them  till  quite  tender. 
Let  them  be  taken  out  and  laid  to  drain  for  a  short  time,  during 
which  a  thick  batter  should  be  made  with  the  white  of  eggs 
beaten  up  with  a  little  flour.  Grate  the  roots  down  tolerably 
fine ;  press  them  into  small  flattened  balls  ;  dip  these  in  the 
batter,  and  roll  them  into  grated  crackers  or  crumbs  of  bread  ; 
then  fry  them  in  a  pan  till  they  are  of  a  deep  brown  color, 
when  they  are  ready  for  the  table,  and  will  form  a  very  agree- 
able and  even  delicious  dish. 

Culture. — Sow  the  seed  in  drills,  half  an  inch  deep,  and 
ten  inches  apart,  in  April,  or  before  the  end  of  May.  As  soon 
as  the  plants  are  an  inch  high,  thin  them  out  with  the  hoe  to 
four  or  six  inches  apart.  Keep  the  ground  clear  of  weeds, 
giving  them  the  general  culture  of  Carrots.  This  vegetable  is 
perfectly  hardy,  and  may  stand  out  all  Winter,  though  it  is 
necessary  to  store  away  a  quantity  for  Winter  use  when  the 
ground  is  hard  frozen.  They  like  a  deep,  rich  soil,  and  will 
be  in  good  condition  for  the  table  till  the  end  of  March. 


SCORZONERA. 

Scorzonera-  hispdnica. — Scorzonere,  Fr. 

This  vegetable  is  a  native  of  Spain,  and  has,  to  a  limited  ex- 
tent, been  long  in  cultivation.  There  is  very  little  difi'erence 
between  the  character  and  flavor  of  this  root  and  that  of  Sal- 
safy.  It  is  cultivated  more  as  a  variety  than  for  any  real 
utility  as  a  vegetable.  It  is  cooked  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  former,  and  cultivated  with  the  Carrot.  The  seed  must 
be  sown  in  April,  as  it  requires  longer  to  mature  than 
either  the  Salsafy  or  the  Carrot. 


116  cuist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

SEA-KALE. 

Crdmbe  Maritima. —  Chou  Marin^  Fr. — MeerkoM,  Ger 

This  plant  is  found  growing  on  the  sea-coasts  of  Europe, 
particularly  in  England,  where  it  is  cultivated  to  a  very  great  ex- 
tent in  the  gardens  of  the  wealthy.  It  is  closely  related  to 
the  Cabbage,  and  professional  men  have  observed  that  all  the 
good  qualities  of  that  family  are  centred  in  the  Sea-Kale.  I 
suspect  this  opinion  would  be  contested  by  lovers  of  "  Corned 
Beef  and  Cabbage  ;"  however,  I  have  no  doubt  that  a  free  use 
of  this  vegetable  and  Rhubarb,  in  the  Spring,  would  contri- 
bute greatly  to  reduce  the  Doctor's  account.  It  can  be  ob- 
tained with  very  little  trouble,  the  whole  Winter,  in  its  most 
perfect  state  ;  but  the  fact  of  its  having  to  be  attended  to  in 
these  dreary  months,  retards  its  progress.  The  tillers  and 
workers  of  the  soil,  independent  of  their  nocturnal  slumbers, 
very  frequently  slumber  with  nature,  and  are  inert  at  any  em- 
ployment that  requires  their  peculiar  care  at  that  period  of  the 
year. 

The  mode  of  dressing  this  vegetable  for  the  table  is  as  fol- 
lows :  Tie  the  stalks,  or  rather  clusters  of  stalks,  in  bundles,  and 
boil  them  with  plenty  of  water,  and  a  little  salt,  for  twenty  min- 
utes, observing  that  the  water  is  boiling  before  they  are  put  in. 
Have  a  toast  ready,  dip  it  in  the  water,  put  it  on  the  dish, 
and  the  Sea-Kale  upon  it,  and  pour  a  little  white  sauce  over  it, 
consisting  of  cream  or  milk,  thickened  with  flour  and  butter ;  or 
simply  cook  it  as  Asparagus  is  done,  which  it  much  resembles. 

Culture. — We  venture  to  assert  that  no  culinary  vegeta- 
ble can  be  raised  either  naturally  or  artificially  with  less  trouble 
or  a  greater  certainty  of  success  than  the  Sea-Kale,  as  in 
either  case  the  plants  will  last  many  years  ;  and  in  their  peri- 
odical forcing  they  give  the  gardener  no  anx'iety,  as  the  desired 
result  is  certaiu.     Sow  the  seed  thinly,  in  drills  one  inch  deep. 


SEA-KAL^.  117 

and  twelve  apart,  at  any  time  in^  March  or  April  (one  ounce 
of  seed  will  be  sufficient  for  a  moderate  family).  If  the 
weather  be  dry,  water  it  freely.  In  about  two  or  three  weeks 
the  plants  will  appear ;  thin  them  out  to  an  inch  apart ;  and 
when  they  have  attained  more  strength,  thin  them  out  to  two 
or  three  inches.  They  require  no  further  care  the  first  season, 
except  to  hoe  freely  and  keep  clear  of  weeds.  During  Novem- 
ber, cover  the  crowns  of  the  plants  with  a  few  inches  of  earth. 
Early  in  the  following  Spring,  prepare  a  piece  of  rich,  sandy 
ground,  well  manured,  about  ten  feet  by  thirty,  giving  it  twenty- 
five  pounds  of  salt,  and  digging  the  ground  fully  fifteen  inches 
deep.  Mark  it  out  into  two  four-feet  beds,  leaving  an  alley 
between.  In  the  centre  of  each  bed  a  line  should  be  drawn, 
where  the  strongest  plants,  after  being  carefully  taken  up,  are 
to  be  planted  at  two  feet  apart,  taking  care  that  the  crown  of 
the  plant  is  set  two  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  bed,  to 
allow  for  the  future  rising  of  the  crowns,  which  they  are  in- 
clined to  do  every  year  ;  they  will,  if  judiciously  managed,  con- 
tinue in  perfection  twelve  or  fifteen  years.  Within  six  inches 
of  the  edge  of  each  bed,  plant  other  rows  in  the  same  manner  ; 
thus  each  bed  will  contain  about  forty-five  plants.  If  the  sea- 
son proves  very  dry,  water  occasionally,  frequently  stir  the 
eart]\  and  constantly  destroy  weeds.  Do  not  allow  any  of 
the  plants  to  go  to  seed,  which  will  cause  them  to  grow  stronger 
for  the  required  purpose.  Particularly  for  forcing  under  pots 
this  is  the  most  general  method,  and  one  which  will  bring  this 
vegetable  to  perfection.  Its  season  will  be  from  Christmas  to 
April,  if  the  following  process  is  strictly  adhered  to : 

When  the  number  of  roots  are  determined  upon  for  forcing, 
clear  them  of  all  decayed  leaves.  Early  in  November,  give 
the  bed  two  inches  of  well  decomposed  dung  ;  fork  it  in  lightly, 
which  will  strengthen  the  roots  and  accelerate  their  growth. 
Cover  the  crowns  of  the  plants  three  or  four  inches  thick,  with 
any  light,  sandy  soil,  or,  if  convenient,  pure  sand.  After  being 
thus  finished,  cover  the  crowns  with  large  pots  or  boxes,  sink- 


118  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

ing  tliem  one  or  two  inches  in  the  ground,  and  carefully  stop- 
ping up  any  holes  in  them,  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  any  rank 
Bteam.  When  that  is  done,  procure  a  quantity  of  leaves  from 
the  woods,  and  mix  them  with  about  a  fourth  or  a  half  of 
warm,  stable-manure  ;  with  this  cover  the  whole  of  the  ground 
and  the  pots  to  the  depth  of  twenty  inches,  which  will  be 
quite  sufficient  to  bring  this  vegetable  to  a  full  growth  for  use, 
if  the  temperature  of  50°  to  60°  can  be  maintained.  In  very 
severe  weather,  over  this  covering  throw  some  dry  litter  or 
boards.  If  the  materials  are  properly  managed,  they  will 
come  to  a  heat  in  two  or  three  weeks ;  in  three  or  four  weeks 
more,  examine  a  pot  or  two,  and  when  the  plants  are  found  to 
have  sprouts  from  six  to  eight  inches  in  length,  they  may  be 
cut  for  use,  which  is  to  be  done  by  first  removing  a  part  of  the 
earth  from  round  the  head  of  the  plant,  and  cutting  close  to 
the  crown,  with  part  of  it  adhering,  but  taking  care  not  t6  dis- 
turb the  young  shoots  that  appear  round  it.  Afterwards  cover 
the  crowns  with  earth,  as  at  first,  and  replace  the  pots,  leaves, 
and  other  materials.  The  plants  will  remain  in  a  vigorous 
state  of  growth  for  six  or  eight  weeks,  by  which  time  the  pots 
may  be  removed.  As  the  cold  weather  goes  off,  take  gradually 
away  the  covering,  as  the  root  and  crown,  by  being  forced, 
would  probably  be  injured  by  the  change,  were  the  entire  cov- 
ering taken  away  at  once.  When  the  plants  are  finally  cleared, 
level  down  the  earth  or  sand,  and  dig  in  a  few  inches  of  the  de- 
cayed material,  which  will  strengthen  the  plant  for  a  vigorous 
growth  throughout  the  season ;  and  they  will  be  found  in  a 
good  state  for  forcing  in  the  following  Winter. 

The  plants  that  are  not  forced  should  be  covered  early  in 
Spring  with  eight  or  ten  inches  of  sand,  or  fine,  light  soil. 
They  will  produce  strong  sprouts,  and  be  found,  on  clearing 
the  ground  round  them,  to  be  finely  blanched,  of  a  clear,  white 
color,  and  wlien  dressed,  nearly  equal  to  those  blanched  under 
pots.  It  is  admitted  that  forcing  improves  the  flavo-r  of  this 
esculent.     It  will  be  found  that  from  a  garden  with  two  good 


SHALLOT.  1 19 


beds  of  this  valuable  vegetable,  it  can  be  enjoyed  from  January 
to  May,  by  giving  tbe  simple  attention  we  have  detailed. 

Besides  the  above  method  of  forcing,  it  can  be  done  success- 
fully in  pits,  frames,  or  hot-houses,  where  these  erections  are 
in  use.  Put  the  plants  in  large  pots,  using'earth  of  a  light, 
rich  nature.  Place  them  in  any  dark  corner,  where,  with  a 
little  moisture  at  times,  they  will  bring  good  sprouts  for  the 
table. 


SHALLOT. 

Allium  ascaldnicum. — Eschalote.  Fr. — Schallote,  Grer. 

It  will  be  observed  from  the  botanic  name  of  Shallot,  that  it 
is  classed  with  the  Onion  tribe.  It  was  introduced  from  As- 
calon,  a  town  of  Syria,  and  frequently  is  known  under  the 
name  of  Eschalots.  They  have  a  strong  but  not  unpleasant 
odor,  and  are  preferred  to  the  Onion  for  various  purposes  of 
cookery  and  seasoning.  Many  epicures  consider  them  the 
best  seasoning  for  a  good  old-fashioned  dish  of  beef-steaks. 
Though  it  has  been  two  hundred  years  in  cultivation,  very  lit- 
tle of  the  article  is  used  in  this  country,  unless  by  the  French. 

Culture. — The  roots  are  bulbous,  and  increase  readily  by 
offsets,  the  largest  of  which  are  most  proper  for  use.  The 
bulbs  are  oblong  and  irregular,  seldom  becoming  large ;  gen- 
erally growing  in  clusters,  they  do  not  swell  like  roots  that 
grow  singly.  The  soil  best  adapted  for  their  growth  is  a  light, 
rich,  sandy  loam,  though  they  will  thrive  well  in  any  rich  soil 
that  is  not  saturated  with  moisture.  Plant  them  in  October 
or  November,  in  drills,  six  inches  apart,  three  inches  deep,  and 
about  eight  inches  from  row  to  row.  If  a  quantity  of  soot  be 
mixed  with  the  soil,  it  will  greatly  prevent  the  attacks  of  a 
maggot,  which  frequently  commits  depredations  upon  this 
plant.  Early  in  Spring  draw  away  the  earth  from  the  bulbs, 
6 


120  BUIST'S    family    kitchen    (tARDENER. 

leaving  them  entirely  naked ;  nothing  further  is  required  than 
to  keep  them  free  from  weeds.  In  July  the  tops  begin  to 
turn  yellow,  when  the  roots  can  be  taken  up  and  dried  in  the 
same  manner  as  Garlic.  If  the  planting  is  delayed  till  Spring, 
the  bulbs  will  not  require  to  be  put  under  ground,  but  merely 
planted  as  Onion  sets,   which  their  culture  very  much  resem- 


SKIRRET. 

^lum  Sisarum. —  Chervis,  Fr. — Zuckerwurzel,  Ger. 

Skirret  is  considered  a  nutricious  vegetable,  and  would  be 
more  generally  cultivated  were  it  not  for  the  large  space  of 
ground  required  to  raise  a  quantity  for  general  use.  It  is  a 
perennial  plant,  a  native  of  Asia,  and  has  been  cultivated  in 
Europe  about  two  hundred  years.  The  roots  are  composed  of 
long,  fleshy  tubers,  joined  together  in  the  crown  or  head. 
They  are  cooked  like  Salsafy,  and  form  a  very  white,  sweet, 
and  pleasant  vegetable. 

Culture. — Soil  suitable  for  the  Carrot  will  also  grow  this 
root  in  perfection.  Sow  the  seeds  thinly,  in  drills,  half  an 
inch  deep  and  ten  inches  wide,  at  any  time  from  the  middle  of 
April  to  the  first  of  May,  the  ground  having  been  previously 
well  dug  and  manured.  Sow  a  fewEadish  seeds  in  the  drills, 
to  distinguish  them,  and  admit  of  hoeing  to  destroy  the  weeds, 
lest  they  overgrow  the  crop.  In  five  or  six  weeks  they  can  be 
thinned  out  with  the  hoe  to  five  or  six  inches  apart.  Nothing 
more  will  be  requisite,  excepting  a  constant  stirring  of  the  soil 
and  keeping  down  weeds.  About  the  first  of  November  the 
roots  will  be  fit  for  use,  and  continue  so  till  Spring.  On  the 
approach  of  severe  frost,  they  should  be  taken  up,  cleaned  and 
Btowed  away,  like  other  roots,  in  sand  or  dry  earth. 


SPINACH.  121 


SPINACH,   OR   SPINAGE. 

Spindcia  olerdcea. — Epinard^  Fr. — Spinat,  Ger. 

This  vegetable  is  a  hardy  annual,  said  to  be  a  native  of 
Spain,  and  lias  been  cultivated  to  a  considerable  extent  for 
many  years.  If  eaten  freely,  it  is  of  a  laxative  and  cooling 
nature,  but  does  not  afford  mucb  nutriment.  It  is  admitted 
to  be  innocent  in  its  effects  in  all  kinds  of  diseases,  and  al- 
lowed by  medical  men  to  be  eaten  when  other  vegetables  are 
denied.  The  leaves  of  the  plants,  being  of  a  very  succulent 
or  moist  nature,  must  be  boiled  about  ten  minutes  in  a  very 
small  portion  of  water,  in  which  a  gentle  handful  of  salt  has 
been  put.  As  it  boils,  clear  off  the  scum  which  arises.  Drain 
it  well  in  a  colander,  season  it  with  butter  and  pepper,  or  dress 
with  eggs  and  vinegar.  There  are  three  varieties  of  Garden 
Spinach  in  cultivation,  which  differ  in  the  size  and  shape  of 
the  leaves,  and  the  greater  or  less  prickliness  of  the  seeds. 

Frickhj- Seeded,  or  Wiriter  Spinach,  is  the  best  for  sowing  in 
September  for  Winter  crops. 

Round-Seeded  is  preferred  for  Spring  sowing ;  and  in  mild 
latitudes  it  is  generally  used.  It  produces  a  rounder,  fuller, 
and  more  fleshy  leaf 

Flanders  Spinach. — This  is  a  prickly-seeded  variety,  having 
great  breadth  of  foliage.  It  is  more  luxuriant  and  of  a  greener 
color.     It  is  not  in  general  use,  but  deserves  special  attention. 

Culture. — This  vegetable  is  generally  sown  broad-cast,  as 
it  is  easier  performed — a  system  we  deprecate,  as  being  un- 
professional, without  neatness,  and  giving  afterwards  more 
labor  to  keep  clean.  Sow  very  thinly  in  drills  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  deep,  and  nine  inches  from  row  to  row.  For  Winter  and 
early  Spring  crops,  sow  about  the  end  of  August,  and  again 
about  the  middle  of  September.     For  early  Summer  crops,  sow  . 


122  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

about  tlie  end  of  March,  and,  frequently,  to  the  middle  of  May. 
It  succeeds  in  any  common  garden  soil,  but  tbe  more  it  has 
been  previously  enriched  with  manure,  the  better.  Indeed  it 
will  not  produce  its  large,  expansive  leaves,  nor  fully  develope 
its  extraordinary  growth,  unless  highly  nurtured.  It  is  a  rank 
grower,  and  consequently  a  gross  feeder.  Always  select  an 
open  situation,  avoiding  the  vicinity  of  trees  or  buildings.  If 
the  ground  is  light  and  dry,  it  should  be  trodden  down  firmfy, 
or  rolled  with  a  roller.  The  Spring  crops  can  be  sown  very 
conveniently  between  Peas,  or  on  ground  where  the  Pole  Beans 
are  intended  to  be  planted.  The  crop  must  be  well  hoed  and 
faithfully  cultivated,  which  draws  the  moisture  to  the  roots, 
encouraging  the  growth.  "Where  the  ground  is  in  proper  con- 
dition, the  plants  may  stand  nine  inches  apart,  and  the  crop 
will  be  easily  gathered ;  but  if  the  ground  is  poor  and  the 
plants  stinted,  the  produce  is  nearly  worthless.  The  seeds 
will  come  up  in  from  ten  days  to  two  weeks.  Thin  out  the 
plants  when  too  thick  ;  if  they  have  three  or  four  leaves  an  inch 
broad,  they  may  be  used  till  the  main  crop  is  sufficiently 
thinned.  When  the  plants  have  leaves  two  or  three  inches 
broad,  they  will  be  fit  for  gathering,  which  is  done  by  croping 
the  outer  leaves,  the  root  and  heart  remaining  to  shoot  out 
again.  We  have  seen  leaves  of  the  Round  and  Flanders 
Spinach  two  feet  in  circumference.  In  this  vicinity,  the  Win- 
ter Spinach  has  generally  a  very  thin  layer  of  straw  or  other 
light  covering  laid  over  it,  which  greatly  protects  the  roots  and 
prevents  their  being  thrown  out  by  the  frost.  Grardeners  who 
have  any  emulation,  endeavor  to  cover  a  portion  of  their  most 
advanced  crop  with  mats,  or  any  covering  that  they  can  take 
off  in  mild  weather.  This  enables  them  to  procure  a  dish  of 
this  vegetable  at  any  period  during  the  Winter  months.  We 
would  further  observe,  that  if  this  crop  is  not  kept  quite  thin, 
but  one  plant  allowed  to  touch  its  neighbor,  they  will  draw 
up  and  speedily  run  to  seed.  Two  ounces  of  seed  will  plant 
five  drills,  each  forty  feet  long. 


SQUASH.  123 


SaUASH. 

Cucurhita  Melopepo. —  Courge  ou  Fotiron,  Fr. 

This  vegetable  is  in  general  use  from  June  to  August,  or 
even  October,  and  is  extensively  cultivated  in  this  vicinity  for 
the  market.  There  is  no  garden,  however  unpretending,  should 
omit  its  culture. 

They  may  be  cooked  in  the  very  simplest  form,  requiring 
about  an  hour's  boiling  in  water.  When  done,  mash  well, 
place  them  in  a  colander  and  press  out  the  water  freely.  Sea- 
son with  pepper,  cream  and  butter,  and  dish  them  up  for  the 
table. 

There  are  several  sorts  for  both  Summer  and  Winter  use. 
The  former  only  deserves  attention,  as  the  latter  are  inferior 
to  the  Cashaio  Pumpkin. 

Early  Bush,  or  Patty-pan,  from  its  dwarf  habit  and  produc- 
tiveness, is  preferred  for  early  crops.  It  is  of  a  yellowish- 
white  color,  round  and  pan-shaped.  Many  acres  of  them  are 
grown  for  our  markets. 

Green  Striped,  or  Large-  Green. — This  crook-necked  variety 
is  perfectly  green,  with  a  few  light  stripes  in  it.  Some  prefer 
it  to  the  former,  though  not  generally,  it  being  both  later  and 
more  rampant  in  growth. 

Culture. — Plant  in  May,  June,  and  July,  in  hills  four  feet 
each  way,  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  Cucumbers. 
Their  general  management  and  after-culture  is  the  same  in 
every  respect.  Half  an  ounce  of  seed  will  supply  any  family. 
They  are  fit  for  use  when  about  the  size  of  the  fist.  When  the 
skin  becomes  so  hard  that  the  nail  of  the  finger  cannot  pierce 
it  easily,  it  is  unfit'  for  use. 


124  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


SWISS    CHARD,    OR   SILVER   BEET. 

Beta  Vulgaris  argentea. — Swiss  Chard,  Ger. 

This  spinaceous  plant  is  becoming  very  generally  distrib- 
uted as  a  vegetable.  Its  leaves  only  are  used.  It  is  a  variety 
of  the  Beet,  having  bright  green  foliage,  with  the  leaf-stalk  and 
mid-rib  of  a  pure  white,  and  is  sometimes  known  under  the 
name  of  Seakale  Beet,  from  the  fact  that  the  footstalk  and 
nerves  of  the  leaves  can  be  used  like  that  vegetable.  The 
leaf,  after  being  deprived  of  the  strong  membranes,  is  cooked 
like  Spinach,  and  very  favorably  received  at  the  table.  The 
root  portion  of  the  plant  is  not  generally  made  use  of 

Culture. — This  is  accomplished  in  the  same  manner  .and 
by  the  same  process  as  detailed  for  the  Beet,  page  28.  It  is 
extensively  cultivated  in  France,  G-ermany,  and  Switzerland. 
To  those  who  are  fond  of  a  vegetable  diet,  it  may  form  a  very 
prominent  portion  in  the  months  of  June,  July,  and  August — 
the  warm  season,  when  Spinach  and  Seakale  cannot  be  ob- 
tained. Sow  for  the  first  crop  in  March,  and  for  the  second 
in  May.     An  ounce  of  seed  will  supply  a  large  family. 


TARRAGON. 

Artemisia  Dracunculus. — UEstragon,  Fr. — Dragun,  Ger. 

Tarragon  is  a  perennial  plant,  a  native  of  Siberia  and  Tar- 
tary,  where  it  is  covered  during  the  Winter  months  with  snow. 
The  French  are  particularly  fond  of  it  in  salads.  The  leaves 
and  young  tops  are  used  as  ingredients  in  pickles,  and  a  sim- 
ple infusion  of  them  in  vinegar  makes  an  excellent  fish  sauce ; 
the  leaves  are  also  eaten  with  beef-steaks,  having  a  fragrant 
smell  and  an  aromatic  taste. 


THYME TOMATO.  125 


Culture. — It  is  propagated  by  parting  the  roots  in  Spring 
and  planting  them  in  a  light,  rich  soil,  one  foot  apart,  but 
free  from  dung  that  is  not  thoroughly  decomposed.  Six  plants 
will  supply  a  family.  Cover  them  in  severe  Winters  with 
rough  litter,  or  a  few  branches  and  leaves.  If  they  are  planted 
in  moist  soil,  heavy  and  continued  frosts  will  destroy  their 
roots  ;  they  delight  in  a  warm,  dry  situation. 


THYME. 

Thymus  vulgaris. — Thym^  Fr. — Thimian^  Grer. 

The  common  garden  Thyme  is  a  low,  evergreen,  procumbent 
shrub.  It  is  a  native  of  England,  Spain  and  Greece.  It  has 
an  agreeable  aromatic  smell,  and  a  warm,  pungent  taste.  Its 
culinary  use  is  principally  for  soups  and  seasoning  of  every 
description. 

Culture. — A  few  bushes  of  this  plant  is  all  that  is  necessa- 
ry for  a  family.  They  can  be  procured  by  the  slip  or  division 
of  the  root,  or  from  seeds ;  the  latter  are  very  small,  and 
should  be  sown  in  moist  weather,  on  a  spot  of  fine  soil ;  cover 
the  seed  very  lightly  and  press  it  with  the  back  of  the  spade. 
A  spot  of  ground  one  foot  square  is  sufficient.  Thyme  that  is 
intended  for  Winter  use  should  be  cut  when  just  coming  into 
bloom,  tied  up  in  bundles,  dried  in  the  shade,  and  put  away  in 
paper. 


TOMATO. 

Soldnum  Lycopersicum. — -Tomate,  Fr. — Liebes  Apfel,  Ger, 

In  taking  a  retrospect  of  the  past  eighteen  years,  tliere  is  no 
vegetable  on  the  catalogue  that  has  obtained  such  popularity 
in  so  short  a  period  as  the  one  now  under  con.sideration.     In 


126  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

1828-9  it  was  almost  detested  ;  in  ten  years  more  every  vari- 
ety of  pill  and  panacea  was  "  extract  of  Tomato."  It  now  oc- 
cupies as  great  a  surface  of  ground  as  Cabbage,  and  is  culti- 
vated the  length  and  breadth  of  the  country.  As  a  culinary 
dish  it  is  on  every  table  from  July  to  October.  Contiguous 
to  large  cities,  where  a  high  price  is  given  for  the  first  and 
earliest  supply,  the  exertions  of  the  experienced  market  gar- 
dener bring  every  operation  to  bear  on  its  early  maturity.  lo 
is  brought  to  the  table  in  an  infinite  variety  of  forms,  being 
stewed  and  seasoned,  stuffed  and  fried,  roasted  and  raw,  and 
in  nearly  every  form  palatable  to  all.  It  is  also  made  into 
pickles,  catsup,  and  salted  in  barrels  for  "Winter  use,  so  that 
with  a  few  years  more  experience,  we  may  expect  to  see  it  as 
an  every-day  dish  from  January  to  January.  It  belongs  to 
the  same  family  as  the  Potato,  and  like  it  is  destined  to  be 
universally  cultivated  in  all  climates  where  it  will  mature  ; 
and  we  yet  expect  to  see  it  grown  to  an  extent  in  the  erections 
of  the  wealthy  who  inhabit  colder  latitudes,  that  they  too 
may  enjoy  this  favorite.  There  are  several  kinds  grown  for 
fancy  purposes,  but  only  three  sorts  for  the  table  :  these  are, 

The  large  smooth  Red. — This  is  a  very  recent  variety,  in  every 
respect  similar  to  the  common  sort,  only  being  smooth  and 
free  from  protuberances  and  indentations. 

Large  Red. — The  sort  that  is  grown  by  the  hundreds  of 
acres  for  market  supply,  and  is  from  three  to  eighteen  inches 
in  circumference. 

Pear  Sharped. — This  variety  is  of  a  reddish-pink  color,  very 
fleshy,  contains  fewer  seeds  than  the  two  former  sorts,  equally 
as  good  for  stewing,  and  preferable  for  pickling,  being  more 
firm,  and  of  a  better  shape. 

Cherry  Shaped. — This  variety  is  very  appropriately  named. 
It  is  cultivated  expressly  for  pickling,  and  forms  a  very  beauti- 
ful variety.     . 

There  are  several  other  fancy  sorts,  generally  of  a  yellow 
color,  which  have  an  interest  to  those  who  are  fond  of  variety. 


TOMATO.  127 

Culture. — It  is  indispensable,  in  good  gardening,  to  have 
this  popular  vegetable  fit  for  the  table  at  the  earliest  possible 
period.  We  therefore  advise  all  to  resort  to  the  best  and  most 
expeditious  means  at  their  command.  Hotbeds,  in  March,  are 
generally  used  to  grow  a  few  hundreds,  or  thousands,  as  wants 
require.  Sow  the  seed  very  thinly,  and  cover  it  slightly.  It  is 
generally  sure  of  vegetating,  and  if  the  plants  come  up  thickly, 
they  draw  and  crowd  each  other.  In  a  few  days  they  will  be 
three  or  four  inches  high,  requiring  to  be  freely  aired,  if  in  a 
hotbed,  at  all  favorable  periods  in  time  of  sunshine.  As  they 
advance  in  growth,  transplant  into  other  frames,  under  glass, 
where  they  will  stand  two  or  three  inches  apart,  to  harden  and 
prepare  for  removal  to  the  open  ground.  About  the  first  of 
May  select  some  sheltered  spot ;  plant  them  three  feet  apart, 
by  the  side  of  a  close  fence,  or  other  erection,  where  they  will 
have  the  full  benefit  of  the  sun  the  whole  day.  When  they 
are  about  a  foot  high,  draw  earth  to  their  stems  and  surround 
them  with  branches  for  support.  The  earliest  plants  should 
have  a  few  inches  taken  off  their  tops  as  soon  as  they  have  set 
their  fruit.  This  will  cause  them  to  ripen  more  rapidly. 
Where  there  is  plenty  of  space  under  glass,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  pot  a  quantity  of  the  plants  in  April,  and  encourage  their 
growth  by  every  possible  means,  transplanting  them  into  the 
open  air  as  soon  as  there  is  a  possibility  of  settled,  warm 
weather,  which  is  generally  about  the  second  week  in  May,  in 
this  vicinity. 

Those  who  have  not  such  convenient  arrangements  as  above, 
can  place  a  small  box  or  large  pot.  with  good  rich  earth,  in 
their  kitchen  window,  and  sow  in  it  a  few  seeds,  about  the 
middle  of  March  or  the  first  of  April.  By  this  means  they 
will  have  the  crop  ready  two  or  three  weeks  before  those  that 
are  sown  in  the  open  air;  For  a  general  crop,  sow  about  the 
last  week  of  April,  on  a  sheltered,  warm  spot  of  ground,  in 
light,  rich  soil.  If  the  nights  are  cold,  cover  with  a  little 
straw  or  other  brush.  Keep  the  plants  thiia,  that  they  may 
6* 


128  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

grow  stocky  and  strong.  Transplant  a"bout  tlie  20th  of  May, 
two  feet  from  plant  to  plant  and  three  feet  from  row  to  row, 
where  they  are  to  remain.  The  frame  in  which  the  Cabbage 
plants  were  during  Winter,  is  an  excellent  spot  for  these 
seeds,  which  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  they  are  removed,  in 
March.  Protect  with  mats  and  shutters  in  cold  weather.  The 
seed  grows  best  when  it  is  only  very  slightly  covered.  Al- 
though great  care  is  taken  for  its  early  protection,  it  is  of  a 
very  hardy  nature,  and  will  lie  dormant  in  the  ground  all 
Winter,  vegetating  in  the  Spring,  as  the  season  advances.  In 
some  seasons  there  is  a  caterpillar  very  destructive  to  the 
vines,  against  which  the  only  remedy  is  picking  them  off  as 
soon  as  they  appear.  For  the  proper  culture  of  this  crop,  it  is 
indispensable  to  have  rich  ground.  That  whereon  the  Winter 
Spinach  was  grown  will  suit,  if  in  good  heart. 


TRUFFLE. 

Tilhera  Term' a.—  Tmffe,  ¥i.— Truf el,  Ger. 

The  Truffle  is  a  subterraneous  fungus,  growing  naturally 
some  inches  below  the  surface,  in  some  parts  of  Italy,  France, 
and  even  Grreat  Britain.  We  do  not  suppose  that  its  cultiva- 
tion has  been  attempted  in  this  country,  neither  are  we  inti- 
mately acquainted  with  the  process  of  its  culture.  It  has  been 
successfully  grown  by  several  individuals  in  England,  who 
procured  the  Truffle  from  where  it  was  found  growing,  laying 
it  in  a  somewhat  similar  situation,  either  in  the  vicinity  of 
woods  or  in  the  open  field.  It  is  a  very  singular  production, 
combining  (in  the  opinion  of  naturalists)  a  flavor  of  both  flesh 
and  vegetable.  It  is  of  a  globular  formation,  about  the  size 
of  a  hen's  egg,  without  any  roots  or  fibres.  It  is  sometimes 
seen  of  a  dark  brown  color,  while  at  other  times  it  is  of  a  whi- 
tish appearance.  The  surface  is  uneven  and  rough,  the  flesh 
firm — ^white  when  young,  but  as  it  becomes  old,  it  approaches 


Tur.Nir.  129 


black,  with  liglit  brown  veins.  Dogs  and  swine  have  been 
trained  to  search  for  the  Truffle.  In  Italy  it  is  called  Swine's 
Bread,  as  these  animals  are  exceedingly  fond  of  them.  The 
Italians  tie  a  cord  to  the  hog's  foot  and  drive  him,  observing 
where  he  roots.  The  French  and  English  have  dogs  called 
Truffle-dogs,  trained  to  scent  it  out.  These  dogs  point  out  the 
spot,  by  scraping  and  barking;  and  the  Truffles,  which  are 
generally  found  in  clusters,  are  dug  up  with  a  spade,  They 
are  used,  like  the  mushroom,  in  stuffings,  gravies,  and  other 
high-seasoned  preparations,  and  will  keep  perfectly  sound  for 
several  months. 

Culture. — They  have  been  successfully  cultivated  in  Ger- 
many, France,  and  England,  on  which  there  is  a  large  pamph- 
let published,  to  which  we  refer  those  who  wish  information 
on  the  subject.  We  are  not  acquainted  with  the  manner  of 
their  growth,  and  it  is  not  our  habit  to  detail  to  others  what 
we  do  not  practically  know. 


TURNIP. 

Brdssica  Rdpa. — JVavct,  Fr. — StecJcrube,  Ger. 

The  Turnip  is  a  vegetable  common  to  all  temperate  and 
cold  latitudes.  It  has  been  known  for  250  years,  and  has  be- 
come, in  some  countries,  an  extensive  field-crop.  It  is  not 
positively  known  of  what  country  it  is  a  native.  Horticul- 
tural and  agricultural  science  has  brought  it  to  its  present 
perfection.  It  is  accounted  a  salubrious  root,  but  in  weak 
stomachs  it  is  apt  to  produce  flatulency  and  prove  difficult 
of  digestion.  It  is  frequently  used  medicinally  in  coughs, 
hoarseness,  and  other  asthmatic  disorders.  The  syrup  of  Tur- 
nip, after  being  extracted  by  baking  and  mixed  with  honey,  is 
a  family  receipt  for  these  complaints.  Turnips  are  principally 
used  at  the  table  with  boiled  meats,  or  mashed,  strained,  and 


ISO  BTJIST'S    FAMILY    KirCHET^    GARDTIINEK. 


mixed  with  batter,  cream^  and  other  seasoning,  for  which  pur^ 
pose  mid-sized  Turnips  are  better  than  large  ones,  as  the  lat- 
ter, being  of  a  spongy  nature,  contain  more  water  than  those 
smaller.  In  the  present  day,  during  the  great  deficiency  of 
the  Potato  crop,  they  form  a  partial  substitute  for  that  valu- 
able root — especially  in  Europe,  where  some  of  the  finer  kinds 
of  the  Turnip  have  been  found,  by  recent  analysis,  to' give 
nearly  as  much  nourishment.  The  young  sprouts  from  the 
tops,  in  Spring,  make  excellent  greens.  There  are  only  a  few 
sorts  suitable  for  garden  culture. 

Early  White  Duich^  or  White  Strap-havcd,  is  a  very  early 
kind,  of  a  round,  flat  form  ;  the  leaves  are  short  and  narrow. 
This  and  the  following  variety  will  produce  roots  fit  for  the 
table  in  six  weeks  from  sowing. 

Early  Red-top  Dutch^  or  Strap-leaved  Red-top^  has  every 
character  of  the  former,  except  that  the  portion  of  the  root 
which  is  fully  exposed  above  ground  is  of  a  red  or  purple 
color. 

Early  Yellow  Dutch  is  a  very  beautifully  formed  variety, 
of  the  color  indicated  by  its  name.  It  is  quite  firm,  sweet, 
round  in  form,  and  keeps  well. 

Of  this  class  there  are  also  the  White  and  Yellovj  Stone, 
Yellow  Malta,  Snovjball,  and  some  others,  all  of  which  we 
think,  in  this  climate,  inferior  to  the  three  described. 

For  Spring  use,  the  following  Swede  or  Rutabaga  Turnips 
should  be  sown  : 

The  Purple-topped  Swede  is  of  an  oval,  tapering  form,  and 
requires  to  be  sown  in  July ;  flesh  very  fine,  and  keeps  till 
Spring. 

Improved  Swede. — "We  are  highly  in  favor  of  this  variety  of 
Turnip,  either  for  the  garden  or  field  ;  it  has  a  better  formed 
root  than  the  common  sort ;  the  leaves  do  not  grow  so  strong ; 
the  flesh  is  of  a  fine  yellow,  and  very  pleasant  flavor. 


TURNIP.  131 


The  following  are  the  relative  nutritive  properties  of  the 
Swede  and  Garden  or  Field  Turnips  : 

4  oz.  Swede  Turnip  afford     110  grs.  nutritive  matter. 
4  oz.  Dutch  or  Garden  afford  85  grs.  nutritive  matter. 

Culture. — The  soil  most  genial  for  the  Turnip  is  acknow- 
ledged to  be  a  gravelly,  sandy  loam.  Some  say  "  poor  soil, 
where  no  other  vegetables  will  grow,"  is  the  best:  I  say, 
good  rich  soil,  witli  a  dry  bottom.  In  such  sow  for  an  early 
crop  as  soon  as  tlie  iVo-it  is  out  of  the  ground,  either  broad- 
cast or  in  drills,  ten  inches  apart  and  one-fourth  of  an  inch 
deep.  An  ounce  of  seed  will  sow  a  bed  four  feet  wide  and 
forty  feet  long.  Rake  the  surface  even.  If  dry  weather, 
press  the  ground  with  the  back  of  the  spade  or  a  light  wooden 
roller.  One  sowing  only  can  be  made  in  the  Spring.  From 
the  middle  to  the  end  of  July  is  the  proper  time  for  sowing 
the  Swede  or  Rutabaga.  Drills  are  most  suitable  for  this  sort. 
Draw  them  fifteen  inches  apart,  and  thin  out  the  plants  as  they 
grow,  till  they  stand  eight  inches  from  each  other.  This  va- 
riety requires  very  frequent  use  of  the  hoe  in  stirring  the  soil, 
to  keep  it  sweet  and  encourage  the  growth  requisite  to  mature 
this  best  and  most  nutritious  of  Turnips.  In  August  sow  the 
other  sorts  for  a  Fall  and  Winter  supply.  It  is  best  to  make 
two  sowings,  say  about  the  first  and  towards  the  middle  or 
end  of  the  month  ;  roll  or  tramp  firm  the  ground  after  the  seed 
at  this  period  of  the  year — the  first  sowing  to  mature  early  for 
immediate  use,  the  last  sowing  to  store  away  for  a  Winter 
supply.  In  some  seasons  we  have  to  sow,  and  sow,  and  sow 
again,  either  from  drought  or  the  effects  of  the  fly,  which  fre- 
quently destroys  it  as  soon  as  it  vegetates ;  in  dry  seasons  it 
is  particularly  destructive.  In  garden  culture,  a  few  pots  of 
water  every  evening  will  promote  the  growth  of  the  seed,  and 
bring  it  speedily  away  from  the  attacks  of  the  fly.  One  thing 
must  be  observed :  to  have  the  ground  always  fresh  dug  be- 
fore sowing.     Soot,  wood-ashes,  and  air-slacked  lime  are  all 


132  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

said  to  be  preventives,  if  strewn  over  the  plants.  We  feel 
assured  that  its  applicatiou  will  retard  their  progress,  but 
cloudy  and  showery  weather  is  more  effectual.  If  seed  of  the 
current  year  and  seed  of  one  or  two  years  old  be  sown  on  the 
same  piece  of  ground  separately,  the  old  seed  will  frequently 
be  cut  off,  while  the  seed  of  the  current  year  will  escape. 
Grood  seed  will  germinate  in  from  thirty-six  to  forty-eight 
hours.  When  the  crop  is  destroyed,  stir  or  dig  the  ground 
immediately  and  sow  again.  When  the  plants  have  grown 
about  an  inch  high,  introduce  the  hoe  among  them,  and  thin 
out  to  two  or  three  inches  apart ;  and  in  a  week  or  two  more, 
give  them  another  hoeing  and  thinning.  Till  they  stand  six 
inches  from  each  other,  do  not  draw  any  earth  to  their  roots ; 
in  fact  the  reverse  was  our  practice  twenty  years  ago :  they 
were  sown  on  ridges,  and  the  earth  drawn  down  as  the  plants 
advanced  in  growth.  The  result  was  frequently  forty  tons 
per  acre. 

Taking  up  the  Crop. — Turnips  may  be  kept  perfectly  sound 
till  Spring  by  being  taken  up  about  the  first  of  November,  or 
before  severe  frost  sets  in.  Cut  the  leaves  off  to  about  half  an 
inch  from  the  bulb ;  collect  the  latter,  and  put  them  in  a  dry 
pit  or  cellar ;  cover  with  straw,  and  earth  over  all.  Thus 
protected,  they  will  be  found  fresh  and  perfect  till  February, 
after  which  the  Swede  will  be  fit  for  the  table  till  April. 
Those  for  Spring  use  can  be  pitted  out  of  doors  in  a  dry  situa- 
tion, piling  them  in  a  conical  form  and  covering  them  with 
three  inches  of  straw  and  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  of  earth, 
which  will  be  ample  protection.  When  opened  in  Spring,  these 
will  be  found  to  have  nearly  all  the  fiavor  of  being  fresh  from 
the  field. 

Save  Seed. — In  many  cases  this  is  very  essential ;  you  will 
then  be  always  sure  of  the  age  and  quality.  Select  early  in 
Spring  a  few  of  the  best  formed  roots,  draw  deep  drills  two 


VEGETABLE    MARROW.  133 

feet  apart  and  place  the  bulbs  therein,  covering  them  all  over 
carefully  with  the  earth.  They  will  soon  shoot  up  and  branch 
out,  ripening  their  seeds  in  July.  It  is  preferable,  however, 
to  change  the  seed  of  this,  as  well  as  all  other  vegetables,  every 
few  years ;  and  in  purchasing,  buy  always  from  a  responsible 
vender,  who  feels  a  vital  interest  in  selling  a  pure  and  genuine 
article.  The  seed  will  keep  three  years  in  a  dry  place  ;  if  it 
is  two  years  old,  soak  it  in  water  twenty-four  hours  before 
sowing. 


VEGETABLE    MARROW. 

Cucurbiia  ovifera,  var. — Patiron,  Fr. 

We  have  been  frequently  greatly  amused  by  some  of  our 
friends  kindly  presenting  us  with  seeds  purporting  to  be  the 
marrow  of  all  the  vegetables,  or  •'  Vegetable  Marrow."  It  is 
a  species  of  Gourd  introduced  from  Persia  several  years  ago, 
and  has  been  found  useful  for  culinary  purposes  in  every  stage 
of  its  growth.  When  young,  it  is  cut  in  slices  and  fried  with 
butter ;  when  more  mature,  it  is  cut  in  quarters,  stewed  in  rich 
gravy,  and  seasoned  to  taste  ;  in  this  way  it  is  very  agreeable, 
and  said  to  be  both  wholesome  and  nutritious. 

Culture. — This  vegetable  is  characteristically  situated  be- 
tween the  Pumpkin  and  the  Squash,  consequently  its  habits 
and  mode  of  growth  are  very  similar  to  those  plants.  Plant 
the  seeds  in  hills,  about  the  first  of  May,  six  feet  apart,  and 
manage  them  as  directed  for  the  above.  It  has  an  oval  fruit 
inside,  very  fleshy.  In  saving  the  seed,  keep  the  plants  dis- 
tant from  any  of  the  family. 


134  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


WATER    CRESS. 

Sisy'mbrium  Nasturtium. —  Cresson  de  Fontaine.^  Fr. — Briin' 
nenkresse,  GeK 

The  many  virtues  that  were  attributed  to  the  Water  Cress 
in  days  of  old,  if  at  all  applicable  then,  are  equally  valuable 
at  the  present  day.  Its  botanical  name  alludes  to  its  warm 
and  cordial  qualities,  which  were  considered  to  infuse  life  into 
persons  of  low  and  dull  spirits.  The  Cress  is  also  famed  for  its 
antiscorbutic  qualities,  and  may  be  safely  eaten  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  but  is  particularly  in  request  in  Spring.  It 
should  be  found  in  our  markets  in  profusion,  being  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  the  constitutions  of  those  who  live  chiefly 
on  animal  food.  Water  Cresses  are  found  growing  in  clear 
runs  of  water  and  springs  throughout  this  country  and  Europe. 
There  is  about  an  acre  of  them  at  Spring-Mill,  near  this  city. 
It  is  a  plant  that  has  winged  leaves,  like  the  Rose,  or  like  half- 
grown  leaves  of  the  Ash  tree,  of  a  roundish  heart-like  shape, 
with  few  indentures  on  the  edges ;  the  upper  part  of  which, 
after  more  mature  growth,  is  of  a  reddish-brown  color,  and 
forms  roots  in  the  water  at  every  joint. 

Culture.  Wherever  there  is  a  running  stream  and  a  gra- 
velly soil,  they  may  be  cultivated  to  advantage.  In  fact  every 
spring  house  in  the  country  should  have  attached  to  it  a  bed 
of  Water  Cresses.  They  may  be  obtained  by  the  simple  pro- 
cess of  throwing  the  plants  on  the  water :  the  seeds  will  ripen 
and  soon  propagate  in  abundance.  They  can  also  be  cultivated 
in  low,  moist,  loamy  soil,  that  can  be  irrigated  and  drained  at 
pleasure.  Give  it  a  deep  diging  with  the  spade  in  March  or 
April ;  make  beds  four  feet  wide,  and  set  the  plants  therein 
at  about  six  inches  apart.  Water  them  abundantly ;  they  will 
soon  establish  themselves,  and  the  only  culture  they  require  is 
to  keep  them  moist,  and  destroy  carefully  every  weed.    In  the 


CLOSING   REMAUKS    ON    VEGETABLES.  135 

absence  of  moisture  the  plants  will  be  destroyed  by  the  heat 
and  drought.     There  are  also  the 

AMERICAN    CRESS, 

Barharea    j)rcccox.  —  Cresson  de  Amerique^  Fr. — Amerikanisher 
Kresse,  Ger. :  and  the 


WINTER    CRESS, 

Ery'simum  Barharea, —  Cresson  de  Terre,  Fr. —  Winter 
Kresse,  Ger.  ; 

But  both  of  these  are  subordinate  to  the  Water  Cress  in  every 
character,  and  our  pages  may  be  occupied  with  more  useful 
subjects. 


CLOSING   REMARKS   ON    VEGETABLES. 

Through  these  few  pages  I  have  endeavored  to  inculcate 
upon  the  student  the  benefit  of  being  always  in  time  with  a 
crop.  Never  delay  doing  to-day,  in  the  hope  of  having  more 
time  to-morrow.  Do  it  at  once,  if  it  can  be  done.  Gardeners 
have  not  a  moment  to  spare — unoccupied  ground,  weeds,  hoe- 
ing, raking,  sowing,  reaping,  digging — preparing  poles,  rods, 
stakes,  manure,  and  many  other  duties,  demand  his  attention  at 
all  times.  We  have  never  seen  a  good  gardener  who  did  not 
feel  it  a  pleasure  to  be  in  advance  of  these  wants.  Get  once 
behind,  lose  time,  and  it  is  hard  to  make  up.  Sow  early  in  the 
season,  and  if  you  fail  you  have  time  for  a  second  trial ;  where- 
as, if  you  sow  late  and  miss  your  crop,  the  opportunity  of  re- 
covering the  loss  is  gone  with  it.  Sow  before  or  just  after 
rain,  but  never  when  the  ground  is  wet.  Beware  of  sowing 
deep,  or  in  dry  weather,  or  on  dry  ground.  If  this  cannot  be 
avoided,  soak  your  seeds  in  water  a  few  hours,  sow  them,  and 
then  water  the  ground  freely.  |Cl^  Gardeners  never  sleep  when 
the  sun  is  ttp. 


MEDICINAL    HERBS 


The  following  is  a  list  of  such  plants  as  are  generally  denomi- 
nated Medicinal  Herbs,  and  which  are  found  to  be  more  or 
less  wanted  in  most  families.  We  therefore  give  a  short  de- 
scription of  them,  and  the  purposes  for  which  they  are  most 
commonly  used.  They  may,  in  most  instances,  be  very  easily 
cultivated.  .  The  soil  for  growing  the  greater  part  should  be 
light  and  dry,  but  that  of  a  poorer  description  is  more  suitable 
for  some,  as  Lavender,  Rosemary,  Rue,  Sage,  Wormwood,  and 
a  few  others ;  and  if  planted  in  a  rich,  moist  soil,  much  of 
their  aromatic  quality  flies  off,  and  they  are  rendered  less  ca- 
pable of  withstanding  any  severe  weather. 


ANGELICA. 

Angelica  archangelica. — Angelique,  Fr. — Engelwurtz^  Ger. 

Is  a  native  of  the  northern  parts  of  Europe,  and  has  been 
long  cultivated.  It  is  biennial,  and  propagated  from  its  seeds, 
which  are  to  be  sown  as  soon  as  gathered,  in  August,  in  a  moist 
situation  ;  and  when  the  plants  are  about  six  inches  high,  they 
must  be  transplanted  to  a  similar  soil,  about  three  feet  apart. 
The  plants  will  last  many  years,  provided  they  are  not  allowed 
to  run  to  seed.  The  flowering  stems  should  be  cut  down 
when  a  few  inches  high.  The  stalks  of  Angelica  were  for- 
merly blanched,  and  eaten  as  Celery,  but  they  are  now  only 


ANISE-SEED BALM.  137 


u.-vu  as  a  sweetmeat,  when  candied,  by  tlie  confectioners. 
The  Laplanders  extol  the  utility  of  this  herb  for  coughs  and 
other  disorders  of  the  chest,  but  in  this  country  it  is  seldom 
employed  for  that  purpose,  as  many  other  simples  surpass  it 
in  aromatic  and  carminative  powers. 


ANISE-SEED. 

Fimpinella  Anisum. — Boucage,  Fr. — Anis,  Ger. 

A  NATIVE  of  Egypt  and  some  other  eastern  countries.  The 
seeds  are  annually  imported  from  Malta  and  Spain.  The 
plant  is  annual,  and  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  in  a  light, 
dry  soil,  in  Spring.  Anise-seeds  have  a  warm,  aromatic  smell, 
and  a  pleasant,  warm  taste,  accompanied  with  a  degree  of 
sweetness ;  they  have  been  useful  in  many  complaints,  but 
none  more  so  than  in  flatulent  colics  and  obstructions  of  the 
breast,  for  diarrhoeas,  and  for  strengthening  the  tone  of  the 
stomach  in  general. 


BALM. 

Melissa  qfflcindlis. — Melisse^  Fr. — Melisse,  Ger. 

So  called  from  the  Greek  word  signifying  honey ^  because 
of  the  abundant  and  excellent  honey  of  its  flowers,  for  which 
bees  greatly  frequent  it.  The  Garden  Balm  is  a  native  of  the 
mountains  of  Geneva,  Savoy,  and  Italy.  It  is  perennial,  and 
may  be  readily  propagated  by  parting  the  roots  in  Spring  or  Au- 
tumn, and  planting  them  in  beds  of  common  garden  mould. 
The  herb,  in  its  recent  state,  has  a  weak,  aromatic  taste,  and  a 
pleasant  smell,  somewhat  of  the  lemon  kind.  Balm  was  for- 
merly esteemed  of  great  use  in  all  complaints  supposed  to  pro- 
ceed from  a  disordered  state  of  the  nervous  system.     As  tea, 


138  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

however,  it  makes  a  grateful  dilutent  drink  in  fevers,  and  in 
this  way  it  is  commonly  used  either  by  itself  or  acidulated 
with  lemons. 


BLESSED   THISTLE. 

Centaurea  henedida. —  Centauree  Siidorijique,  Fr. —  Cardo 
benediden,  Grer. 

A  NATIVE  of  the  south  of  France,  Spain,  ana  the  Levant.  It 
is  annual,  and  propagated  from  seed  sown  in  Autumn.  This 
plant  has  obtained  the  name  of  Benedictus,  or  Blessed,  from 
its  supposed  extraordinar}''  medicinal  qualities.  It  has  an  in- 
tensely bitter  taste  and  disagreeable  smell.  It  was  formerly 
employed  to  assist  the  operation  of  emetics ;  but  the  flowers 
of  Chamomile  are  now  substituted  for  it  with  equal  advantage. 
It  was  also  thought,  when  taken  internally,  to  be  peculiarly 
efficacious  in  malignant  fevers.  In  loss  of  appetite,  where  the 
stomach  has  been  injured  by  irregularities,  its  good  effects 
have  been  frequently  experienced.  It  has  now  lost  much  of 
its  reputation,  and  does  not  seem  to  be  essentially  different 
from  other  simple  bitters. 


BORAGE. 

B  or  ago  ojicindlis. — B  our  r  ache,  Fr. — Borragen,  G-er. 

This  herb  is  said  to  have  originated  from  Aleppo,  but  is 
now  naturalized  in  many  parts  of  Europe.  It  is  a  hardy  an- 
nual, and  easily  cultivated,  from  sowing  the  seeds  in  April, 
which  come  up  without  any  care.  Borage  is  cultivated  in  our 
gardens  on  account  of  the  supposed  cordial  virtues  of  its  flow- 
ers, but  they  have  long  lost  their  reputation.  In  Italy  its 
young  and  tender  leaves  are  in  common  use,  both  as  a  pot-herb 
and  a  salad.     In  France  its  flowers,  with  those  of  Nasturtium. 


CARAWAY. CHAMOMILE.  139 


are  put  into  salads  as  an  ornament.  In  England  it  is  now 
nearly  neglected,  but  the  flowers  and  upper  leaves  are  some- 
times used  as  an  ingredient  in  that  Summer  beverage  com- 
posed of  wine,  water,  lemon  juice,  and  sugar,  called  a  cool 
tankard,  to  which  they  seem  to  give  an  additional  coolness. 


CARAWAY. 

Cdrum  Cdrui. —  Carvi^  Fr. — Kummel^  Ger. 

A  NATIVE  of  many  countries  in  the  northern  parts  of  Europe. 
It  is  biennial,  and  propagated  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  Spring. 
The  seeds  of  this  plant  are  well  known  to  have  a  pleasant,  spicy 
smell,  and  a  warm,  aromatic  taste ;  and  on  that  account  they 
are  much  used  as  a  common  ingredient  in  cakes,  and  are  en- 
crusted in  sugar  for  comfits ;  they  are  also  distilled  with  spir- 
ituous liquors,  to  improve  their  flavor.  The  tender  leaves  in 
Spring  are  sometimes  boiled  in  soups. 


CHAMOMILE. 

A'nthemis  nobilis. —  Camomille.  Fr. — Kamille,  Ger. 

Grows  wild  in  many  parts  of  Europe.  It  is  a  hardy  pe- 
rennial, and  easily  propagated  by  parting  the  roots  early  in 
Spring.  Both  the  leaves  and  flowers  of  the  Chamomile  have 
a  strong,  though  not  ungrateful,  smell,  and  a  very  bitter,  nau- 
seous taste.  The  flowers  possess  the  stomachic  and  tonic 
qualities  usually  ascribed  to  simple  bitters.  A  watery  infu- 
sion of  them  is  frequently  used  for  the  purpose  of  exciting 
vomiting,  or  for  promoting  the  operation  of  emetics.  They 
are  very  generally  used  in  emollient  decoctions,  to  assuage 
pain ;  and  externally  as  fomentations. 


140  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

CLARY. 

Salvia  Scldrea. — Orvale,  Fr. — Scharlachkraut,  Grer. 

A  NATIVE  of  Italy  and  Syria,  and  long  known  in  the  Eng- 
lish garden,  where  it  is  a  hardy  biennial.  It  is  easily  raised 
from  seed,  which  should  be  sown  in  March,  in  any  bed  or 
border  of  common  earth.  Clary  was  formerly  much  used  in 
cookery,  but  it  is  not  now  in  much  repute.  A  wine  is  some- 
times made  from  the  herb  in  flower,  which  has  a  flavor  not 
unlike  Frontigniac. 


CORIANDER. 

Coridndrum  Sativum. —  Cariajidre,  Fr. — Koriander,  Ger. 

A  NATIVE  of  the  southern  parts  of  Europe,  and  of  China.  It 
is  a  hardy  annual,  and  propagated  from  seed  sown  in  Autumn, 
in  an  open  situation,  on  a  bed  of  good,  fresh  earth.  The  dried 
seeds  of  Coriander  have  a  tolerably  grateful  smell,  with  a  mod- 
erately warm  and  slightly  pungent  taste.  They  are  carmina- 
tive (soothing  or  softening)  and  stomachic  ;  and  are  commonly 
sold  by  the  confectioners,  encrusted  with  sugar. 


DILL. 

Anethum  graveolens. — VAnith^  Fr. — DiZZ,  Ger. 
Grows  wild  among  the  corn  in  Spain  and  Portugal ;  and 
may  be  produced  by  sowing  the  seeds  soon  after  they  are  ripe, 
in  any  light  soil.  The  seeds  of  Dill  have  a  moderately  warm, 
pungent  taste,  and  an  aromatic  smell,  but  not  of  the  most 
agreeable  kind ;  they  were  formerly  much  used  in  medicine, 
but  are  now  seldom  employed.  They  are  sometimes  put  into 
pickles  to  heighten  the  flavor,  partlcularl}"  of  Cucumbers. 


ELECAMPANE HOREHOUND.  141 

ELECAMPANE. 

I'nula  Hdenium. — Inule^  Fr. — Inuh^  Ger. 

The  Elecampane  is  a  strong-growing  perennial  plant,  a  na- 
tive of  Britain,  rising  from  three  to  five  feet  high.  It  is  cul- 
tivated in  most  gardens,  and  delights  in  a  moist  or  shaded  sit- 
uation. It  can  be  propagated  by  dividing  the  root  in  the 
Autumn.  The  roots  are  thick,  Carrot-shaped,  and  aromatic  ; 
when  dried,  ground,  and  made  into  a  tea,  it  is  considered  an  ex- 
cellent remedy  for  a  cold.  In  some  countries  the  root  is  can- 
died and  used  as  a  stomachic  for  strengthening  the  tone  of  the 
viscera. 


HOREHOUND. 

Marrubium  vulgdre. — Marrube,  Fr. 

Common  in  many  parts  of  the  world,  on  waste  ground,  and 
among  rubbish,  in  hot,  dry,  and  dusty  situations.  The  plant 
is  annual,  and  may  be  raised  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  any  of 
the  Spring  months.  The  leaves  have  a  moderately  strong 
smell,  of  the  aromatic  kind,  but  not  agreeable ;  their  taste  is 
very  penetrating,  bitter,  and  durable  in  the  mouth.  This  herb 
was  extolled  by  the  ancients  for  its  efficacy  in  removing  ob- 
structions of  the  lungs.  It  has  been  chiefly  employed  in  hu- 
moral asthmas,  obstinate  coughs,  and  pulmonary  consumptions. 
Its  use  is  also  said  to  be  beneficial  in  affections  of  the  liver. 
Lozenges  made  of  the  juice  of  this  herb  and  sugar  are  esteemed 
good  for  colds.  Though  Horehound  possesses  some  share  of 
medicinal  power,  its  virtues  do  not  appear  to  be  clearly  ascer- 
tained, and  it  is  now  rarely  prescribed  by  physicians. 


142  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


HYSSOP. 

Hyssopus  officinalis. — Hysope^  Fr. — Isop^  Ger. 

A  NATIVE  of  the  south  of  Europe,  and  must  have  been  known 
among  the  ancients.  This  plant,  being  perennial,  is  easily 
propagated,  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  a  border  of  light  mould,  in 
the  Spring  season,  or  by  slips,  and  cutting  and  parting  the 
roots.  The  whole  plant  has  a  strong  aromatic  scent,  and  the 
leaves  and  flowers  are  of  a  warm,  pungent  taste  ;  they  are  some- 
times reduced  to  powder  and  used  with  cold  salad  herbs. 
Hyssop  has  the  general  virtues  ascribed  to  aromatics,  and  is 
recommended  in  asthmas,  coughs,  and  other  disorders  of  the 
lungs.  The  young  leafy  shoots  and  flower-spikes  are  usually 
employed,  being  cut  as  they  are  wanted.  The  flower  st^ems 
may  be  cut  during  the  Summer,  and  tied  up  in  bunches  for 
use. 


LAVENDER. 

Lavandula  Spica. — Lavande,  Fr. — Spiklavendel,  Ger. 

Is  a  very  hardy  plant,  and  a  native  of  the  south  of  Europe. 
It  may  be  readily  increased  by  planting  slips  or  cuttings  of 
the  young  shoots  in  the  Spring.  The  common  Lavender  has 
been  cultivated  for  ages  past.  The  fragrant  smell  of  the 
flower  is  well  known,  and  to  most  persons  is  very  agreeable ; 
to  the  taste  it  is  bitterish,  warm,  and  somewhat  pungent ;  the 
leaves  are  weaker,  and  less  grateful.  The  flowers  are  often 
employed  as  a  perfume,  and  medicinally  as  mild  stimulants  and 
corroborants,  in  several  complaints,  both  internally  and  exter- 
nally.    They  are  also  sometimes  used  in  the  form  of  a  conserve 


PENNY-ROYAL    MINT PEPPERMINT.  143 

PENNY-ROYAL  MINT. 

Mentha,  Pulegium. — Pouliot,  Fr. — Foley ^  Ger. 

Is  a  native  of  watery  places.  It  is  easily  propagated  by 
parting  the  roots  in  Spring.  They  succeed  best  in  a  strong, 
moist  soil,  and  when  planted  on  the  edges  of  rivulets,  ponds, 
<Slc.  Penny-royal  has  a  warm,  pungent  flavor,  somewhat  sim- 
ilar to  Mint,  but  more  acrid,  and  less  agreeable  both  in  taste 
and  smell.  It  possesses  the  general  properties  of  other  mints, 
but  is  supposed  to  be  of  less  efficacy  as  a  stomachic.  This 
herb  is  less  frequently  used  now  for  medicinal  purposes  than 
formerly. 


PEPPERMINT. 

Miiithob  labitdta. — Menthe^  Fr. — Munze,  Ger. 

A  NATIVE  of  watery  places  in  various  parts  of  the  world. 
This  variety  has  a  more  penetrating  smell  than  any  of  the 
other  Mints,  and  a  much  stronger  and  warmer  taste.  It  may 
be  increased  with  facility  by  young  oifset  plants  or  shoots,  or 
by  parting  the  roots  in  Spring,  or  by  planting  cuttings  during 
any  of  the  Summer  months,  in  a  moist  soil.  Peppermint  is 
mucli  cultivated  for  medicinal  purposes,  as  well  as  for  distilla- 
tion ;  its  stomachic  and  carminative  qualities  render  it  useful 
in  flatulent  cholics,  hysteric  affections,  and  retchings,  in  which 
it  acts  as  a  cordial.  The  Essence  of  Peppermint  was  formerly 
considered  an  elegant  medicine ;  and  a  cordial  is  made  from 
this  plant  which  is  by  many  people  much  admired. 


144  buist's  family  kitchen  gardenee.. 


ROSEMARY. 

Rosemarinus  officinalis. — Rornarin^  Fr. — Rosmarin^  Ger. 

A  NATIVE  of  the  south  of  Europe,  the  Levant,  and  found 
occasionally  in  the  Grecian  isles.  It  is  propagated  from  the 
seed,  or  by  planting  slips  or  cuttings  in  the  early  Spring 
months.  Rosemary  has  a  fragrant  aromatic  smell,  and  a 
warm,  pungent  taste;  the  leaves  and  tender  tops  are  the 
strongest ;  the  flowers,  by  themselves,  are  much  weaker  but 
more  agreeable.  This  herb  is  reckoned  one  of  the  most  pow- 
erful of  those  plants  which  stimulate  and  corroborate  the  ner- 
vous system ;  it  has,  therefore,  been  recommended  in  various 
affections  supposed  to  proceed  from  debilities.  It  is  generally 
given  in  the  form  of  an  infusion. 


RUE. 


Ruta  graveolens. — Rue,  Fr. — Rante,  Ger. 

Is  a  hardy  shrub,  and  a  native  of  the  south  of  Europe.  It 
is  propagated  in  a  similar  manner  to  the  Rosemary,  and  re- 
quires the  same  cultivation.  The  common  Rue  has  a  strong, 
ungrateful  odor,  and  a  bitter,  hot,  penetrating  taste.  The 
leaves  are  so  acrid  as  to  irritate  and  inflame  the  skin  if  they 
are  much  handled.  Rue  was  much  used  by  the  ancients,  who 
ascribed  to  it  many  excellent  >  qualities.  It  is  employed  by 
some  as  a  tea,  and  also  externally,  in  various  kinds  of  fomen- 
tations. A  conserve,  made  by  beating  the  fresh  leaves  with 
thrice  their  weight  of  sugar,  is  the  most  commodious  form  for 
using  the  herb  in  substance.  It  is  a  powerful  astringent,  and 
adapted  to  phlegmatic  habits,  or  weak  and  hysterical  constitu- 
tions suffering  from  retarded  or  obstructive  secretions. 


SAGE SCURVY    GRASS.  145 

SAGE. 

Salvia  officinalis. — Sauge,  Fr. — Salhey^  Grer. 

Is  a  native  of  the  south  of  Europe,  a  perennial,  and  readily 
increased  by  planting  slips  or  cuttings  in  April.  Sage  has  a 
strong,  fragrant  smell,  and  a  warm,  bitterish,  aromatic  taste. 
It  was  in  ancient  times  considered  as  a  remedy  of  general  effi- 
cacy in  all  diseases.  At  present,  however,  few  practitioners 
consider  it  as  an  article  of  much  importance  in  medicine. 
Although  frequently  employed  as  a  sudorific,  it  seems  to  have 
no  advantage  in  this  respect  over  many  other  plants.  The 
Chinese,  who  are  said  to  have  experienced  the  good  effect  of 
Sage,  value  it  highly,  and  prefer  it  to  their  own  Tea.  The 
Dutch  have  long  been  in  the  habit  of  drying  Sage  leaves  in 
great  quantities,  and  taking  them  out  to  China,  where  for 
every  pound  of  Sage  they  get  in  exchange  four  pounds  of  Tea. 
It  is  much  used  in  cookery  of  various  descriptions. 


SCURVY    GRASS. 

Cochlear ia  officinalis. —  Cranson  officinal^  Fr. — Loffelkraut^  Ger. 

Common  on  the  sea  coasts  of  Europe,  and  not  unfrequent  in 
mountainous  countries,  far  inland.  It  is  biennial,  and  propa- 
gated from  seed  sown  in  the  Spring,  or  by  parting  the  roots 
and  planting  them  in  a  light,  moist  soil.  This  plant  has  a 
warm,  acrid,  bitter  taste,  and  a. pungent,  rather  unpleasant 
smell  when  bruised.  It  has  been  considered  as  one  of  the 
most  effectual  of  all  the  antiscorbutics,  when  eaten  as  a  salad 
with  "Water  Cress,  &c. 


146  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


SORREL. 

Rumex  acetosa. — Oseille,  Fr. — Sauerampfer,  Ger. 

Some  species  of  the  Sorrel  is  found  in  every  part  of  the 
world.  Wherever  seen,  it  indicates  a  poor,  sour  soil.  It  is 
peculiarly  a  French  dish,  and  considered  an  effectual  remedy 
against  scurvy.  Its  general  use  is  in  salads,  and  occasionally 
boiled  as  a  sauce,  and  may  be  cooked  similarly  to  Spinach. 
It  is  increased  by  seeds  or  division  of  the  roots.  Plant  in  a 
light,  rich,  moist  soil,  in  rows  ten  inches  apart ;  they  will  fur- 
nish a  plentiful  supply  of  leaves  the  same  season.  They  after- 
wards only  require  to  be  kept  clean,  and  to  have  the  seed-stems 
cut  down  as  well  as  the  overgrown  leaves  in  Autumn. 


TANSY. 

Tanacetum  vulgdrc. —  Tanaise,  Fr. — Rhei?ifar?i,  Ger. 

A  NATIVE  of  banks,  hedges,  and  borders  of  fields,  in  most 
parts  of  the  middle  of  Europe.  It  is  perennial,  and  easily 
propagated  by  seed,  and  also  by  parting  the  roots  in  Spring 
and  planting  them  in  any  light  soil  or  situation.  Tansy  has 
a  strong,  aromatic  smell,  and  a  bitter  taste.  It  is  tonic  and 
stomachic,  and  has  the  usual  qualities  attributed  to  bitters  of 
the  warm  or  aromatic  kind.  It  was  formerly  much  used  in 
puddings,  but  has  of  late  been  neglected,  and  is  now  seldom 
used,  either  as  a  culinary  vegetable  >r  medicinal  herb. 


WORMWOOD.  147 


WORMWOOD. 

Artemisia  absinthium. — Absinthe^  Fr. —  Wermuth,  Ger. 
It  is  a  hardy  perennial,  and  may  be  propagated  by  slips,  in 
March  or  October,  or  raised  from  seeds  sown  after  they  are 
ripe.  The  leaves  have  a  strong,  offensive  smell,  and  a  very 
bitter,  nauseous  taste ;  the  flower  equally  bitter,  but  less  nause- 
ous. Wormwood  is  a  moderately  warm  stomachic  and  corrob- 
orant, and  for  these  purposes  it  was  formerly  in  common  use, 
but  it  has  now  given  place  to  bitters  of  a  less  ungrateful  kind. 
Wormwood  was  formerly  much  used  by  brewers  instead  of 
Hops,  to  give  the  bitter  taste  to  their  malt  liquors,  and  to  pre- 
serve them.  This  plant  very  powerfully  resists  putrefaction, 
and  is  made  a  principal  ingredient  in  antiseptic  fomenta- 
tions. 


APPLICATION  OF  OUR  REMARKS  TO  VARIOUS  PARTS  OF 
THE  UNITED  STATES. 

The  word  Spring,  when  applied  to  the  Season,  is  everywhere 
known.  When  thus  applied  by  us  in  the  preceding  pages,  it 
is  intended  to  convey  to  the  reader  the  period  of  the  year 
when  the  buds  of  the  earliest  trees  appear  green.  Early  m 
Spring  is  indicated  by  the  buds  on  the  trees  beginning  to 
swell.     Late  in  Spring,  when  the  leaves  have  put  forth. 

About  Philadelphia,  Spring  generally  begins  from  the  10th 
to  the  15th  of  March. 

In  South  Carolina,  the  northern  parts  of  Georgia  and  Ala- 
bama, Spring  begins  five  weeks  earlier  .than  it  does  with  us. 

In  the  southern  parts  of  Virginia  and  Kentucky,  Spring 
generally  opens  about  the  20th  of  February. 

In  Massachusetts  and  'the  upper  part  of  New  York,  Spring 
opens  from  the  25th  of  March  to  the  first  of  April. 

By  these  observations  being  kept  in  view,  the  details  of  this 
work  may  be  made  applicable  to  any  part  of  the  United 
States. 


FRUITS. 


This  subject  has  engrossed  the  attention  of  scientific  and 
practical  men  for  the  last  four  hundred  years.  We  do  not 
presume  to  enter  into  their  speculations  and  investigations  ; 
our  object  is  a  much  humbler  one — to  give  a  few  simple  and 
practical  hints  on  the  subject  of  fruit  culture,  culled  from  our 
own  experience,  and  that  of  one  or  two  individuals  upon  whose 
judgment  we  can  place  reliance.  There  are  few,  even  of  those 
who  have  studied  the  nature  and  character  of  fruits,  that,  out 
of  their  own  collection,  know,  at  first  sight,  many  varieties ; 
and  such  is  the  diversity  of  taste,  that  we  greatly  question  if 
five  individuals  out  of  one  hundred  could  be  procured  that 
would  agree  as  to  the  best  six  Apples,  Pears,  Peaches  or 
Grapes.  This  incongruity  entirely  disconcerts  the  inquiring 
amateur,  gardener,  or  farmer ;  but  the  reason  of  it  is  evident. 
The  slight  differences  that  distinguish  some  varieties ;  the 
alterative  effects  that  soil  has  upon  the  growth  and  flavor  of 
others ;  as  well  as  the  favorable  and  unfavorable  results  from 
situation,  causing  trees  grafted  from  the  same  stock  frequently 
to  mature  fruits  so  entirely  dissimilar  that  they  are  inconsid- 
erately noticed  as  being  something  new.  This  desire  for  new 
fruit  has  become  such  a  mania,  that  it  greatly  encourages  the 
introduction,  both  at  home  and  from  abroad,  of  sorts  that  are 
worthless,  compared  with  our  old  well-tried  kinds.     These  are 


FRUIT6.  1 49 


also  witheringly  discarded  by  some  croakers,  who  raise  the 
physiological  cry  of  "  the  old  kinds  wearing  out."  This  reas- 
oning is  not  from  analogy,  but  is  merely  a  supposition.  It 
would  be  a  very  easy  task  to  renew  any  worn-out  tree,  that 
had  only  a  few  fresh  and  sound  buds  left ;  or  even  to  renovate 
trees  that  are  in  a  declining  state ;  in  the  former  case  by  bud- 
ding or  grafting  upon  young  stocks  that  have  been  grown  from 
the  seed ;  in  the  latter,  by  scraping  off  the  old  bark  from  the 
trunk  and  branches,  and  renewing  the  soil  about  the  roots. 
Our  object,  however,  is  not  to  enter  into  a  detail  of  the  causes, 
effects,  and  diseases  of  trees,  and  their  remedies.  These  sub- 
jects are  elaborately  treated  of  in  the  periodicals  of  the  day. 
Our  object  is  to  lay  before  our  readers  a  really  select  catalogue 
of  select  fruits,  that  will  be  eatable  the  wholo  year,  from  which 
more  pleasure  will  be  derived  than  by  cultivating  acres  con- 
taining trees  not  two  alike,  at  least  in  name.  We  say  differ- 
ing only  in  name,  for  the  cultivator  will  find  that  some  fruits 
are  grown  under  from  three  to  thirty  names,  so  that  after  select- 
ing with  care  one  hundred  kinds  of  fruit,  there  may  prove  to 
be  not  fifty  distinct,  and  one-half  of  these  not  worth  culture. 
The  fruit  catalogues  of  the  present  day  are  very  imposing 
bundles  of  paper  and  ink,  got  up  to  allay  the  appetite  for  new 
fruits.  Those  whose  sole  object  is  to  grow  for  domestic  use 
or  for  sale,  should  select  such  as  agree  with  the  climate  of  the 
locality,  and  are  known  to  be  both  good  and  productive.  Such 
are  those  we  now  introduce,  premising  that  we  are  under  obli- 
gations to  Mr.  Thos.  Hancock,  an  eminent  orchardist  and 
nurseryman  of  Burlington,  N.  J.,  both  for  descriptions  of  fruits 
and  their  characteristic  beauties  or  defects.  They  are  all  pro- 
pagated either  by  grafting  or  budding ;  and  as  it  is  our  desire 
that  all  our  readers  should  know  how  to  propagate,  and  by 
what  means  to  perpetuate  every  variety  of  fruit,  we  will  briefly 
detail  the  operations. 


150 


buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


>% 


Firr. 


Grafting. — ^Whip  or  tangue  grafting  (Fig.  18) 
is  the  mode  most  in  use  in  the  best  fruit-tree 
nurseries,  and  is  so  called  from  the  manner  of 
cutting  both  the  stock  and  scion  in  a  sloping  di- 
rection, on  one  of  their  sides,  sa  that  when  brought 
together  they  fit  exactly,  and  thus  may  be  tied 
together.  In  former  times  this  species  of  graft- 
ing was  performed  without  a  slit  or  tongue,  and 
in  that  case  the  former  term  was  more  applicable. 
Subsequently  the  slit  or  tongue  has  been  added, 
which  has  given  rise  to  the  latter  term.  '•  The 
scion  (or  shoot,  a)  and  stock  (or  tree,  b)  being 
cut  off  obliquely,  at  corresponding  angles  as  near 
as  the  operator  can  judge,  make  a  slit  nearly  in 
the  centre  of  the  sloping  face  of  the  stock  down- 
wards, and  a  corresponding  tongue  in  the  scion 
upwards — this  is  called  tongueing  ;  the  tongue,  or  wedge-like 
process^  forming  the  upper  part  of  the  sloping  face  of  the  scion, 
is  then  inserted  downwards  in  the  cleft  of  the  stock,  the  inner 
barks  of  both  being  brought  closely  to  unite  on  one  side,  so  as 
not  to  be  displaced  by  tying,  which  ought  to  be  done  immedi- 
ately with  strong  cotton  twist,  tape,  or  any  thready  material^ 
brought  in  a  neat  manner  several  times  round  the  stalk.  The 
next  operation  is  to  clay  the  whole  over,  an  inch  thick  on  every 
side,  from  about  half  an  inch  below  the  bottom  of  the  graft  to 
as  much  over  the  top  of  the  stock,  finishing  the  whole  in  a 
long,  oval  form,  and  closing  it  effectually  in  every  part  to  ex- 
clude air  and  water,  which  is  the  sole  object  of  claying. 
Chrafting  Clay  is  very  simply  made  of  any  heavy  loam  pro- 
cured from  a  depth  of  the  soil  that  has  not  been  subject  to 
culture,  combined  with  a  fourtn  of  droppings  from  the  horse 
or  cow  stable,  moistened  and  well  beat  together  with  a  stick, 
till  perfectly  incorporated  and  tough,  allowed  to  stand  for  a 
few  days,  and  then  softened  for  use.  These  materials  are  al- 
ways at  command  ;  there  are  several  kinds  of  grafting  wax,  but 


FRUITS. 


15i 


Fig.  19. 


they  are  not  so  easily  prepared,  and  of  no  more  utility  than  the 
clay.  Grrafting  can  be  performed  close  to  the  ground,  and 
earth  drawn  up  round  the  junction,  which  will  be  as  serviceable 
as  clay. 

Cleft  Grafting  (Fig.  19)  is  another  method  of 
operating  upon  large  trees,  or  stocks,  where  the 
bark  or  rind  is  not  too  thick.  The  head  of  the 
stock,  or  branch,  being  cut  off  smoothly,  a  slit 
is  made  in  the  top  of  the  stock  with  a  strong 
knife  or  chisel,  deep  enough  to  receive  the  scion, 
which  should  be  cut  sloping,  like  a  wedge,  so 
as  to  fit  the  slit  made  in  the  stock.  The  wedge 
side,  which  is  to  be  placed  outward,  is  to  be  made 
thicker  than  the  other ;  and  in  placing  the  scion 
into  the  slit,  it  must  be  so  adjusted  that  the  rind 
or  inner  bark  of  the  scion  joins  that  of  the  stock  ; 
for  if  these  do  not  unite,  the  grafts  will  not  succeed.  "When 
the  stocks  are  large,  two  grafts  may  be  put  in,  (as  represented 
in  the  figure,)  which  tie  firmly  and  clay  over,  as  directed  for 
Whip  Grafting.  As  there  will  be  a  greater  body  of  clay,  in 
this  case,  it  will  be  more  liable  to  fall  off;  it  will  therefore  be 
accessary  to  wrap  moss,  soft  hay,  or  pieces  of  cloth  rom-i  1  the 
balls,  to  prevent  the  rain  destroying  them.  There  are  many 
other  methods  of  grafting,  all  on  the  same  principle  differently 
applied.  Some  of  our  amateur  correspondents,  particularly 
John  A.  Crawford,  Esq..  of  Columbia,  S.  C,  takes  large  limbs 
two  or  three  inches  in  diameter,  and  five  to  ten  feet  long,  and 
grafts  them  into  other  stocks.  These  limbs  produce  fruit  the 
same  season.  Root  grafting  is  also  practised  to  a  considerable 
extent.  Trees  and  stocks  for  grafting  upon  should  always  be 
fully  established  before  being  operated  upon,  having  had  at 
least  one  season's  growth.  Farmers  may  graft  in  every  field 
and  hedge-row,  and  by  every  fence-rail.  Fruit  trees  require 
no  more  room  than  the  cumberers  of  the  ground  in  the  shape 
of  saplings,  briars,  and  thorns.  Fruits  make  an  ample  return, 
7* 


152 


buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


while  the  latter  requires  food  for  which  they  do  not  pay.  There 
is  no  garden  or  farm  but  should  have  a  few  reserve  Plum. 
Pear,  Apple,  Peach,  Cherry  and  Quince  stocks,  on  which  they 
can  place  any  sort  of  fruit  they  wish  to  preserve  and  multiply. 
These  can  be  readily  procured  by  sowing  a  few  seeds,  or  plant- 
ing a  few  pits,  every  year.  Stone  fruit,  such  as  the  Cherry, 
Peach  and  Plum,  do  best  by  budding.  Apples  and  Pears  do 
well  by  both  grafting  and  budding.  Budding  is  performed  as 
follows : 

Budding. — The  operation  may  be  performed  with  any  sharp, 
thin-bladed  knife,  though  one  called  a  "  budding-knife,"  with 
a  thin  ivory  handle,  is  best  for  the  purpose.  It  should  be  in- 
serted about  half  an  inch  above  the  bud,  and  passing  about 
one-fourth  of  the  way  through  the  wood  of  the  shoot,  come  out 
again  about  the  same  distance  below  it,  the  cut  being  as  clean 
as  possible.  The  portion  of  the  bark  in  the  centre  of  which 
the  bud  is  situated  is  called  the  shield ;  and  when  removed,  it 
contains  a  portion  of  the  wood,  which  is  to  be  carefully  re- 
moved with  the  point  of  the  knife,  as  shown  in  Fig.  20  ;  if  the 
wood  is  dry,  and  does  not  separate  readily,  it  is  a  sign  the  bud 
is  too  old,  and  it  should  be  rejected. 

Fig.  20.  Fig.  21.  Fig.  22. 

When  the  wood  is  too 

old  or  too  young,  the  shield 
may  be  taken  off  only  about 
one-eighth  of  the  way 
through  the  shoot,  and  in- 
serted into  the  stock  with- 
out removing  the  portion 
of  the  wood  it  contains: 
this  method,  particularly 
with  very  young  shoots,  is 
very  successful.  If  it  is 
necessary  to  transport  the 
buds  to  some  distance,  this  may  be  safely  done  by  cutting  a 


FRUITS. 


153 


portion  of  the  shoot,  and,  after  cutting  off  the  foliage,  wrap 
them  up  in  damp  moss,  a  few  large  leaves,  or  wet  paper,  when 
they  may  be  kept  for  three  or  four  days.  In  applying  the  bud 
to  the  stock,  an  incision  is  to  be  made  lengthwise  through  the 
bark  (but  not  so  as  to  injure  the  wood),  about  an  inch  in 
length  ;  and  this  is  to  be  diagonally  crossed  at  the  top  by  an- 
other incision,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2 1 .  The  thin  ivory  handle, 
or  back  of  the  knife,  should  then  be  used  to  raise  the  bark, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  22,  and  the  shield  inserted  within,  gently 
pressing  it  to  the  bottom  of  the  perpendicular  incision.  When 
it  is  properly  placed,  the  portion  of  it  above  the  diagonal  cross 
should  be  cut  off,  as  in  Fig.  23,  and  great  care  should  be  taken 
that  the  bud  is  in  close  contact  with  the  wood  of  the  stock. 
When  this  is  done,  bind  it  up  with  damp  matting,  or  cotton 
twist,  all  except  the  bud,  (see  Fig.  24,)  which  must  be  left 
free  to  the  air,  but  protected  from  the  powerful  action  of  the 
sun  or  wet,  either  of  which  would  defeat  the  whole  opera- 
tion. In  two  weeks  the  sue-  pjg,  23.  Fig.  24. 
cess  or  failure  will  be  known, 
when  the  bandages  must  be 
loosened,  though  not  entirely 
taken  away.  From  July  to 
the  middle  of  September  bud- 
ding may  be  done,  choosing 
always  cloudy  weather,  or  a 
few  days  after  a  heavy  rain  ; 
but,  for  limited  operations, 
any  evening  may  be  chosen, 
always  following  the  indica- 
tion of  the  free  parting  of  the 
wood  from  the  bark  ;  for  if  the  bark  does  not  rise  with  facility, 
the  buds  are  liable  to  perish  for  want  of  a  due  supply  of  nour- 
ishment. The  buds  should  always  be  selected  from  vigorous 
young  wood,  that  has  nearly  done  growing.  Cut  off  the 
leaves,   allowing  about  half  an  inch  of  the  footstalk  to  remain 


154  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

for  the  convenience  of  inserting  tte  bnds.  Early  in  the  en 
suing  Spring,  the  stocks  on  which  those  buds  are  that  have 
taken,  should  be  headed  down  to  within  two  inches  of  the  bud, 
which  will  then  grow  rapidly,  and  must  be  tied  in  an  upright 
form  to  the  portion  of  the  stock  left  above  the  eye  for  that 
purpose.  When  it  has  made  a  good  growth,  and  during  the 
month  of  July  or  August,  the  stock  should  be  cut  off  close 
to  the  shoot  by  a  sloping  back  cut,  when  it  will  soon  be  cov- 
ered with  the  growth  of  the  wood.  Those  stocks  that  have  not 
taken,  should  be  grafted  as  soen  in  the  Spring  as  that  opera- 
tion can  be  performed. 

Preparation  of  Scions. — These  are  usually  selected  from 
the  young  wood  of  the  previous  season's  growth,  as  well  as 
those  of  one  or  even  two  years ;  though  the  former  is  to  be 
preferred,  and  should  be  taken  from  the  outside  branches  that 
have  been  fully  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air.  They  should  be 
eut  from  the  parent  tree,  any  time  from  January  to  the  period 
of  growth.  When  they  are  collected,  label  each  sort  correctly, 
and  place  them  in  the  ground,  covered  to  within  an  inch  of 
their  tops,  till  the  season  of  grafting  arrives,  which  is  just  be- 
fore the  buds  open  to  growth.  Cut  the  scions  into  lengths  of 
from  three  to  five  eyes ;  and  where  there  is  an  abundance,  use 
the  middle  portion  of  the  shoot  only. 

Planting. — This  season  extends  from  the  first  of  November 
till  the  swelling  of  the  buds  in  Spring.  Autumnal  planting 
is  to  be  preferred  in  light,  dry  soils ;  and  Spring  planting  ii> 
retentive  and  heavy  soils.  Any  time  during  the  Winter  sea- 
son will  do,  when  neither  frost  nor  snow  prevents  the  opera- 
tion ;  but  do  not  at  any  time  expose  the  roots  of  trees  in 
frosty,  dry,  windy  weather ;  and  in  lifting  trees,  always  retain 
as  many  of  the  fibres  as  practicable,  and  cut  off  neatly  all  that 
are  bruised ;  with  these  precautions,  trees  from  five  to  fifteen 
years  old  may  be  safely  removed.     We  have  seen  entire  or- 


FRUITS,  155 


chards  totally  ruined  at  first  by  careless  planting.  In  some, 
the  trees  lying  to  one  side  just  as  chance  or  the  wind  made 
them :  in  others,  the  trees  hard-looking  and  bark-bound  by 
deep  planting.  The  former  is  sheer  neglect  in  securing  the 
tree  to  a  stake  ;  the  latter,  misapplied  care.  Writers  on  the 
subject  say,  "  Dig  a  pit  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  deep,  and 
fill  it  up  with  rich  compost ;  plant  the  tree  therein  one  or  two 
inches  deeper  than  it  was  in  the  nursery  row."  This  looks  very 
Yv'ell,  but  when  applied  it  proves  a  grave  to  thousands.  In  the  first 
place,  the  hole  is  much  too  deep :  the  soil,  being  all  loose  and 
fresh,  decomposes,  and  falls  down  a  few  inches,  taking  the  tree 
with  it,  so  that  in  two  years  (just  when  the  tree  should  put 
forth  luxuriantly)  it  falls  into  the  pit  prepared  for  it,  never  to 
recover.  Dig  the  pit  or  hole  fully  one  foot  deep,  and  three  or 
four  feet  wide  ;  break  and  prepare  the  soil  well,  in  which  place 
on  its  top  your  tree,  over  which  lay  a  load  of  well  prepared 
soil,  sufiicient  to  cover  the  roots  entirely.  Place  a  strong  sup- 
port to  the  tree,  to  prevent  the  wind  disturbing  the  roots. 
The  soil  will  settle,  but  not  so  as  to  take  the  roots  of  the  tree 
into  a  tub  of  clay ;  they  will  always  be  on  the  surface,  where 
nature  intended  them.  As  the  tree  will  now  rely  on  the  new. 
vigorous  fibres,  which  will  be  produced  in  its  new  station,  if 
the  soil  be  fine,  moist,  and  warmed  by  the  sun's  influence,  no 
fears  need  be  entertained  but  that  they  will  come  forth  to 
carry  on  the  growth  of  the  plant.  Many  trees  have  to  be  pro- 
cured from  a  distance,  perhaps  thousands  of  miles.  If  nursery 
trees,  they  are  generally  ])(ick^d  in  bundles, — packed  is  perhaps 
too  business-like  an  expression, — they  are  tied  like  a  bundle  of 
fuel  for  the  kitchen.  Trees  that  have  to  be  sent  a  great  dis- 
tance should  be  packed  in  boxes.  The  purchaser  had  bet- 
ter pay  twice  the  cost  of  such,  to  have  it  done,  as  they  are  fre- 
quently as  dry  as  rods  when  they  come  to  hand.  In  such  a 
case,  have  the  trees  soaked  in  water  a  few  hours,  and  cover 
them  up  in  wet  straw  or  hay  for  twelve  hours  more ;  then 
puddle  their  roots  in  earth  made  to  the  consistency  of  thin 


156  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

mush.  Plant  them  out  in  their  proper  places,  an(  give  the 
stems  and  branches  a  syringing  with  water  every  da*,  till  they 
have  begun  to  grow,  and  occasionally  afterwards.  It  you  have 
not  got  a  syringe^  use  a  bowl,  a  basin,  or  any  other  p+ensil  that 
will  distribute  the  water. 


ALMOND. 

Amy'gdalus  communis. — Amandier^  Fr. — Mandelbaum,  Ger, 

This  fruit  is  a  native  of  China  and  other  eastern  countries. 
In  the  south  of  Europe  it  is  cultivated  to  a  great  extent,  for 
export,  and  several  thousand  tons  are  annually  brought  to  this 
country.  It  could,  however,  be  very  readily  cultivated  in  the 
latitudes  and  soils  of  Virginia  and  North  Carolina.  It  is  one 
of  the  fruits  mentioned  in  the  history  of  the  Israelites,  and  was 
held  in  great  esteem  by  the  ancients.  The  tree  is  very  simi- 
lar to  the  Peach,  in  growth,  blossom,  and  fruit ;  the  flower, 
however,  is  much  larger  and  more  ornamental.  The  kernel 
(which  is  the  only  valuable  part  of  the  fruit)  enters  largely 
into  confectionery  of  every  kind.  The  toilet,  too,  is  furnished 
with  oils  of  various  names  extracted  from  it,  such  as  Milk 
of  Roses,  Macassar  Oil,  Russia  Oil,  Kalydore,  &c.  There 
are  several  varieties  of  the  fruit,  but  all  known  as  Bitter  and 
Sweet  Almonds. 

Suttane  is  a  thin-shelled  Sweet  Almond  ;  nut  about  an  inch 
in  length,  firm,  oval ;  shell  light-colored,  tender,  and  very  po- 
rous ;  kernel  rich  and  sweet. 

Jordan  or  Thick- Shelled. — Size  of  the  former;  shell  light 
colored,  smooth  and  porous ;  kernel  rich  and  very  sweet. 

Amy'gdalis  amara  is  the  Bitter  Almond.  Fruit  very  similar 
to  the  others  ;  shell  hard  ;  kernel  bitter  ;  used  for  condiments, 
and  by  wine-bibbers  to  allay  the  fumes  of  wine. 

Propagation  and  Culture. — The  Almond  is  propagated  by 


APPLE.  157 

the  kernel  or  seed,  when  the  object  is  to  obtain  new  varieties, 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  Peach.  It  can  be  perpetuated  by 
budding,  and  is  most  permanent  when  grown  upon  the  Plum 
stock ;  but  in  a  dry,  sandy  soil,  they  will  do  best  on  their  own 
stock.  As  a  general  rule,  soil  that  grows  the  Peach  will  suit 
the  Almond.     See-  article  Peach. 

Gathering  of  the  Fruit. — The  fruit  should  be  allowed  to 
remain  on  the  tree  until  the  rind  opens  and  becomes  quite 
brown,  and  the  kernels  firm  and  solid,  when  it  may  be  gath- 
ered and  gradually  dried  till  the  shell  becomes  hard,  after 
which  it  may  be  stored  away  for  use. 


APPLE. 

Pyrus  Mains. — Pomme^  Fr. — Apfel.,  Ger. 

Of  all  the  fruits  cultivated  in  this  country,  the  Apple  is 
undoubtedly  the  most  valuable.  It  is  the  fruit  of  the  Peasant 
and  the  President,  of  the  rich  and  the  poor ;  and  is  suited  to 
346,500  square  miles  of  the  United  States.  At  what  period 
it  became  known  is  involved  in  obscurity.  It  is  a  native  of 
several  countries  and  peculiarly  so  of  this ;  and  the  delightful 
odor  of  the  Wild  Crab  of  Virginia,  when  in  bloom,  is  grate- 
fully remembered  by  every  traveler  who  passes  that  region  in 
March  and  April.  The  tree  is  naturally  long-lived ;  history 
asserts  that  it  has  been  known  to  live  "  over  a  thousand  years," 
though  we  would  rather  ascribe  to  it  one-fourth  of  that  period. 
There  is  no  climate  in  the  world  where  the  Apple  is  brought 
to  such  perfection  as  in  this.  It  can  be  had  in  perfection 
throughout  the  year,  forming  always  an  agreeable  and  luxuri- 
ous addition  to  the  food  of  man.  The  fruit,  when  ripe,  is  lax- 
ative ;  and  when  boiled  or  roasted  it  has  been  fcund  service- 
able in  cases  of  weakness  and  indigestion,  as  also  in  putrid  and 
malignant  fevers. 


158  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

The  constitution  of  the  Apple  is  adapted  to  every  kind  of 
soil.  There  are  known  to  be  about  eight  hundred  varieties  in 
cultivation,  three-fourths  of  which  are  not  worth  attention,  and 
of  the  remaining  fourth,  the  following  list  contains  all  that 
are  really  excellent.  We  introduce  to  the  notice  of  our  read- 
ers such  varieties  only  as  have  been  tested  and  can  be  relied 
upon  for  a  crop,  comprising  a  succession  from  the  earliest  to 
the  latest.  Every  person  will  understand  our  expressions  of 
large,  medium,  small,  round,  flat,  oval  and  long,  when  applied 
to  the  Apple,  its  size  and  character  being  so  familiar  to  civil- 
ized man. 

Summer  Apples.  Early  Harvest^  Princeh  Harvest,  Yellow . 
Harvest,  &c. — This  is  the  best  early  American  Apple  at  pres- 
ent known,  being  a  healthy  growing  tree,  and  a  great  bearer. 
Fruit  of  a  pale  yellow  color,  round  form,  medium  size,  skin 
waxy,  smooth,  with  faint  pale  dots.  Flesh  tender  and  very 
juicy,  of  a  sprightly,  crisp  flavor.  Ripe  early  in  July  ;  fit  for 
either  dessert  or  cooking. 

Striped  Harvest. — A  beautiful  American  variety,  of  excel- 
lent growth  and  very  productive,  takes  the  market  well. 
Emit  under  medium  size,  of  a  pale-yellow  color,  striped  with 
red,  profusely  so  next  the  sun,  round  form.  Flesh  very  juicy 
and  tender,  of  a  superior  flavor.     A  dessert  fruit,  ripe  in  July. 

Bevan^s  Favorite. — An  American  fruit  of  great  beauty ;  a 
constant  bearer  and  of  free  growth.  Fruit  flat,  greenish-yel- 
low, highly  colored  with  bright  red,  medium  size.  Flesh  crisp, 
juicy,  of  a  yellow-white  color.  Ripe  from  the  middle  to  the 
end  of  July. 

Bough.,  or  Large  Yellow  Bough.,  is  perhaps  the  finest  look- 
ing fruit  brought  to  our  market,  for  which  purpose  we  expressly 
notice  it.  We  think  it  too  large  for  the  table,  and  it  is  not 
fit  for  the  kitchen.  Fruit  large,  oval,  of  a  pale  greenish-yel- 
low. Flesh  pure  white,  tender,  sweet  and  crisp.  Ripe  in 
July  and  August. 

Early  Red  Margaret,  or  Red  Juneating. — An  American 


APPLE.  159 


sort,  of  excellent  qualities.  Fruit  medium  size,  of  an  oval 
form,  pale  green  color,  freely  striped  with  dark  red.  Flesh 
yellow-white,  of  a  very  agreeable  flavor,  fit  for  the  dessert  or 
kitchen.     Ripe  in  August. 

Sitmimr  Pearmain^  or  Autumn  Pear  main  of  some. — This  is 
the  very  best  fruit  in  its  season,  and  has  been  long  known  in 
this  vicinity.  Tree  of  slender  growth  but  well  formed  ;  a  reg- 
ular bearer.  Fruit  long  oval,  medium  size,  of  a  russety-yellow 
color,  shaded  with  green  and  red.  Flesh  firm,  brownish-yel- 
low, crisp,  juicy,  and  high  flavored  ;  suitable  for  the  dessert  or 
kitchen.     Ripe  in  August  and  early  September. 

Maidcn^s  Blush. — Supposed  to  be  an  American  variety. 
Exceedingly  beautiful ;  a  great  bearer,  of  good  habit.  Fruit 
medium  size,  flat ;  color  pale  yellow  with  a  bright  red  cheek, 
or  if  grown  in  the  shade,  tinted  with  blush.  Flesh  white,  ten- 
der, with  a  pleasant  flavor.  In  use  from  August  to  October, 
and  fit  for  either  the  table  or  kitchen. 

Hawthornden. — A  very  popular  Scotch  Apple  ;  a  great  and 
early  bearer,  fairly  maintaining  its  character  in  this  country ; 
it  is  of  dwarf  growth  and  spreading  form.  Fruit  very  similar 
in  size  and  shape  to  the  former,  though  not  so  highly  colored 
Flesh  pure  white,  juicy,  and  mild  flavored,  suitable  for  either 
the  table  or  cooking.     Ripe  from  August  to  October. 

Fall  Apples.  Ramho^  or  Red  Scek-no-fwrther^  is  one  of  our 
most  valuable  varieties  for  the  market,  table,  or  kitchen,  and 
is  a  native  of  this  vicinity.  Fruit  about  medium  size,  flat, 
with  a  smooth,  yellow-white  skin,  marbled  and  speckled  with 
rough  red  spots.  Flesh  yellowish-white,  rich,  and  sprightly. 
In  use  from  September  to  November. 

Fall  Pippin^  or  Holland  Pippin  of  some. — "Whoever  has  vis- 
ited Philadelphia  market  in  September  and  October  has  seen 
this  Apple.  Fruit  large,  round,  of  a  fine,  smooth,  greenish- 
yellow  color,  with  an  occasional  blush.  Flesh  white,  mellow, 
spicy,  rich  and  tender.  Very  popular  for  either  the  dessert  or 
kitchen. 


IGO  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

White  Seek-no-fmther. — A  very  popular  variety ;  trees  of  free 
growth  and  good  bearing.  Fruit  round,  rather  tapering  to- 
wards the  eye,  of  a  yellowish-white  color ;  skin  smooth,  with 
russety  spots.  Flesh  yellow,  rich,  juicy  and  tender.  A  table 
fruit  of  great  excellence ;  in  use  from  September  to  No- 
vember. 

Bell-flower,  or  Yellow  Bell-Jlower  of  some,  is  everywhere  es- 
teemed for  its  many  good  qualities.  It  is  one  of  the  most  pro- 
lific bearers,  and,  being  a  native,  well  adapted  for  general  cul- 
ture. Fruit  very  large,  of  a  conical  form ;  color  creamy-yellow, 
with  a  few  brown  spots.  Flesh  tender,  juicy,  crisp,  with  a 
sprightly  flavor,  having  a  large  core.  Fit  for  the  table  or 
kitchen.     In  use  from  September  to  December. 

Autuvm  Pcarmain,  or  Winter  Pearmain. — This  variety  is 
not  excelled  by  any  of  our  Fall  or  Winter  fruits.  Wood  of 
slender  growth,  but  producing  great  crops.  Fruit  oblong, 
medium  size,  of  a  yellowish  color,  stained  and  mottled  with  a 
brownish-red.  Flesh  pale  lemon-yellow,  tender,  with  an  agree- 
able, aromatic  flavor.  Fit  for  dessert  or  cooking.  Ripe  in 
October  to  January. 

Winter  Apples.  Cumberland  Spice,  or  White  Bell-floicer 
of  some,  is  a  general  favorite,  producing  great  crops.  Fruit 
oblong,  large  size,  tapering  towards  the  eye ;  of  a  yellowish- 
white  color,  marked  with  a  few  reddish-brown  dots,  having  a 
large  core.  Flesh  white,  very  juicy,  tender,  with  a  delicately 
agreeable  flavor.     In  use  from  October  to  February. 

BullocMs  Pippin,  or  Sheep-Nose. — This  is  a  productive  vari- 
ety, universally  cultivated  for  its  luscious  flavor.  Fruit  con- 
ical, of  a  yellow  russety  color,  footstalk  long.  Flesh  yellow, 
very  tender,  mild,  rich,  and  juicy.  An  American  sort,  in  eat- 
ing from  October  to  January.  It  is  called  by  Eastern  growers 
^''Golden  Russet^^  confounding  it  with  the  well-known  old 
Apple  of  that  name,  to  which  it  has  no  afiinity. 

Wine  Apple,  or  Haifs  Apple. — Well  known  in  this  vicinity 
as  a  superb  Winter  fruit,  of  large  size ;   of  a  round,  flattened 


APPLE.  161 

form,  skin  yellow,  nearly  covered  with  bright  red.  Flesh  yel 
lowish-white,  crisp,  and  juicy,  with  a  vinous  and  pleasant  fla- 
vor. A  table  and  kitchen  fruit,  in  use  from  October  to 
January. 

Rhode  Island  Grceniag. — A  favorite  fruit,  extensively  culti- 
vated, and  produces  immense  crops  in  almost  every  variety  of 
soil.  Fruit  large,  round,  very  regular  form,  with  a  smooth, 
dark  green  skin.  Flesh  yellow,  close,  sprightly,  with  a  slightly 
aromatic  flavor,  In  use  for  the  kitchen  or  table  from  October 
to  January. 

Roman  Stem. — A  great  favorite  in  New  Jersey,  where  it  is 
very  productive,  forming  a  very  handsome,  round-headed  tree. 
FrvAt  round,  medium  size,  of  a  pale  yellow  color,  with  a  few 
reddish  specks.  Flesh  delicate,  with  a  rich,  juicy,  agreeable 
flavor.  Kipe  from  November  to  March,  and  fit  for  either  the 
table  or  cooking. 

^sopus  Spitzenburg. — There  is  perhaps  not  a  fruit  in  the 
whole  catalogue  more  beautiful  to  look  upon  than  this  variety, 
and  it  is  second  to  none  in  quality.  Fruit  large,  partially  ob- 
long ;  skin  smooth,  of  a  yellowish-green,  and  nearly  covered 
with  brilliant  red.  Flesh  yellow,  crisp  and  juicy,  of  a  rich 
flavor,  with  a  large  core.     Ripe  in  November  to  January. 

Monmouth  Pippin. — I  have  not  seen  an  Apple  for  many 
years  that  so  much  riveted  my  attention  as  this,  at  the  Exhi- 
bition of  the  New  Jersey  Horticultural  Society,  in  1846.  The 
tree  is  of  excellent  habit,  and  a  good  bearer.  Fruit  over  me- 
dium size,  roundish,  flat ;  smooth,  russety-green  skin,  marked 
with  dots  of  brown.  Flesh  firm,  yellow-white,  crisp,  juicy  and 
high  flavored.  In  use  from  November  to  March.  Fit  for  the 
dessert  or  the  kitchen. 

Baldwin. — A  celebrated  Apple  of  the  Eastern  States,  where 
the  tree  is  reputed  to  be  a  great  bearer,  and  cultivated  exten- 
sively for  the  market,  sending  us  a  supply  every  season.  Fruit 
round,  rather  conical,  of  a  3'^ellow  ground,  covered  with  crimson 
and  red,  having  a  few  russet  spots  and  streaks.     Flesh  yellow. 


162  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

crisp,  and  of  a  peculiarly  rich  flavor.     Ripe  from  November  to 
February.     An  excellent  table  fruit. 

Newton  Pippin. — There  are  two  varieties  of  this  prince  of 
fruits,  the  Yellow  and  the  Green,  diifering  in  color,  very  much 
alike  in  form,  though  the  Yellow  appears  to  be  a  little  flatter 
than  the  Green.  Fruit  medium  size,  round,  obscurely  ribbed 
towards  the  eye.  of  a  dull  yellow-green,  with  a  brownish  blush 
on  one  side,  slightly  covered  with  brown  dots.  Flesh  firm, 
yellowish-white,  very  crisp,  juicy,  having  an  exceedingly  pecu- 
liar rich  flavor.  For  eating  or  cooking  it  has  as  yet  no  equal. 
In  use  from  November  to  May,  retaining  all  its  aroma  till  the 
last.  A  native  of  Long  Island,  where  the  original  tree,  I  be- 
lieve, still  exists.     It  requires  a  rich,  loamy  soil. 

Lady  Apple. — A  very  popular  variety,  introduced  from 
France,  and  is  generally  cultivated  as  a  leading  Winter  fruit, 
which  it  produces  in  clusters.  The  tree  is  of  an  elegant,  up- 
right, strong  growth.  Fruit  small,  regularly  round,  though 
rather  flattened  ;  color  bright  yellow,  with  a  lively  dark  red 
cheek.  Flesh  white,  tender,  juicy  and  crisp.  A  valuable 
market  variety,  in  use  from  December  to  April. 

Tewkshury  Winter  Blush. — A  handsome  American  fruit, 
not  equalled  for  long  keeping  by  any  other  sort.  A  great 
bearer  and  of  good  growth.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  round,  flat 
form  ;  skin  smooth,  yellow,  with  a  bright  red  cheek.  Flesh 
yellowish-white,  juicy,  and  well  flavored.  In  use  from  Janu- 
ary to  July. 

Cider  Apples.  Winesap  is  a  great  bearer,  grows  freely 
though  rather  straggling,  and  is  extensively  grown  in  the 
sandy  soils  of  New  Jersey.  Fruit  medium  size,  roundish,  yel- 
low, almost  entirely  covered  with  dull  red.  Flesh  yelloAV,  firm, 
crisp,  juicy,  and  high  flavored.     A  Winter  fruit. 

Harrison. — A  handsome  growing  tree  of  New  Jersey,  of  the 
very  highest  character  as  a  Cider  Apple,  producing  large 
crops.  Fruit  medium  size,  round-oval ;  yellow,  with  rough, 
black  specks.     Flesh  yellow,  rich  flavor.     Ripe  in  November. 


APPLE.  163 

Hagioe  Crab. — A  celebrated  fruit  for  early  use,  either  for 
cider  or  the  kitchen.  It  is  a  strong  grower  and  an  abundant 
bearer.  Fruit  medium  size,  flat,  greenish-yellow  streaked 
with  red.  Flesh  soft,  juicy,  with  a  rich  flavor.  Ripe  in  Au- 
gust and  September. 

Siberian  Crab. — This  variety  is  cultivated  exclusively  for 
preserving,  being  very  small,  with  a  clear,  waxy  skin,  either 
Yellow  or  Red,  there  being  two  varieties.  The  Red  makes  a 
very  ornamental  tree  when  loaded  with  its  brilliant  fruit,  be- 
ing like  so  many  pendant  garnets. 

Culture. — The  best  soil  for  the  Apple  is  that  of  a  loamy, 
friable  nature,  avoiding  sand  and  clay,  in  either  of  which  this 
tree  is  short-lived.  The  finest  trees  and  orchards  are  planted 
on  a  deep,  sandy  loam,  either  on  a  dry  bottom  or  having  a 
good  descent  for  carrying  off  the  water.  It  is  not  our  purpose 
to  go  into  an  elaborate  detail  of  the  management  of  an  orchard  ; 
that  would  only  confuse  and  mystify ;  our  aim  is  to  state  only 
what  is  essential,  and  to  do  it  with  brevity  and  precision 
There  is  no  country  that  possesses  greater  advantages  of  cli- 
mate for  fruit  culture  than  the  United  States  ;  yet,  as  we  have 
stated,  we  see  fine  young  trees  left  to  the  mercy  of  the  elements 
without  any  support ;  we  see  no  disposition  to  arrange  or  form 
the  head  ;  no  hand  to  thin  out  the  crops  ;  all,  all  is  left  to  na- 
ture ;  even  the  soil  has  no  annual  or  tri-annual  material  given 
to  keep  it  in  a  state  to  yield  a  regular  and  continued  crop. 
The  trees,  in  consequence,  get  distorted,  the  limbs  broken  down 
with  their  harvest  to  their  lazy  lords ;  and  then  commences 
the  "  besom  of  destruction,"  to  annihilate  their  existence,  with 
saw  and  axe  to  cut  off'  their  broken  branches ;  disease  takes 
hold  of  the  tree,  and  it  comes  to  a  premature  old  age,  having 
not  lived  half  its  days.  Such  has  been  the  fate  of  many  an 
orchard,  and  such  is  the  treatment  most  frequently  pursued  in 
the  present  day.  The  first  object  of  attention  in  planting  an  or- 
chard, ought  to  be  to  have  the  ground  well  ploughed,  deep — 


164  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

even  trencli-plouglied.  Manure  heavily,  put  on  a  Potato  or 
Corn  crop  the  year  previous  to  planting  out,  and  cultivate  it 
freely  the  whole  season.  The  soil  will  then  be  in  order  to  re- 
ceive the  trees.  Plant  them  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  apart, 
giving  the  tree  at  once  a  strong  support,  to  prevent  its  being 
tossed  with  the  winds.  Tie  between  the  tree  and  the  stake 
some  soft  material,  which  will  keep  the  bark  from  being  chafed. 
Experience  teaches  that  all  young  orchards  should  be  culti- 
vated and  cropped  with  any  kind  of  grain  or  root  crops  except- 
ing grass  or  hay.  After  the  trees  have  come  into  a  good  bear- 
ing state,  grass  is  not  at  all  objectionable  ;  but  as  soon  as  the 
trees  show  any  indications  of  a  meagre  and  stunted  growth, 
the  ground  should  be  well  enriched  in  the  vicinity  of  their 
roots.  We  see  no  reason  why  fruit  trees  should  not  occupy 
the  space  allowed  for  brush  and  saplings  around  the  fields  and 
about  the  fences.  It  cannot  be  the  cost,  for  that  is  a  mere 
trifle.  Every  farmer  may  at  least  grow  a  part,  and  should 
have  a  few  reserve  trees  by  him  every  year.  It  is  merely  be- 
cause it  is  customary  to  allow  these  "  weeds  of  the  forest"  to 
grow  in  place  of  luscious  fruit. 

Pruning. — This  object  is  generally  considered  a  labor,  in- 
stead of  a  pleasant  pastime.  We  can  never  admit  that  it  is 
necessary  to  use  an  axe  and  a  saw  to  prune  a  tree,  more  espe- 
cially a  fruit'  tree  ;  that  treatment  belongs  to  the  dark  ages. 
A  strong  pruning:knife,  good  hands,  with  a  judicious  head,  are 
the  accompaniments  of  the  orchardist.  Cut  ofi"  all  cross 
branches,  shorten  those  that  stretch  out  beyond  the  general 
outline  of  the  tree  ;  thin  out  all  superabundant  wood,  to  allow 
the  permanent  branches  and  shoots  to  be  from  six  to  twelve 
inches  apart.  It  will  rarely  be  necessary  to  cut  off  a  shoot 
of  one  inch  in  diameter. 

Insects. — We  are  not  aware  of  any  destructive  enemy  to 
the  Apple  tree  that  cannot  be  kept  under  by  a  moderate  share 
of  vigilance.     The  Borer,  a  white,  flesliy  grub,  that  commits 


APRICOT.  165 


its  depredations  just  at  the  surface  of  the  ground,  perforating 
every  part  of  the  stem,  is  the  greatest  enemy.  Heaping  round 
the  tree,  during  the  month  of  May,  about  eight  inches  of  coal 
ashes,  lime,  or  sand,  will  greatly  prevent  it.  These  heaps 
must  he  spread  down  again  in  October  or  November.  It  is 
said  that  by  putting  a  peck  of  hot  lime  about  the  stem  of  a 
tree  that  is  affected  by  this  grub,  it  will  be  entirely  restored. 
Naturalists  say  that  this  insect  {Sape?ida  bivittdta)  remains 
two  or  three  years  in  the  tree,  and  comes  out  in  a  butterfly 
form  in  June,  flying  about  at  night  and  depositing  its  eggs  on 
the  tree  close  to  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

Caterpillars  may  be  kept  under  (and  in  fact  it  is  the  only 
way  to  do  it)  by  destroying  their  nests  early  in  the  morning,  or 
about  noon.  If  they  are  allowed  to  progress,  they  will  soon 
cover  an  orchard ;  while,  when  taken  in  time,  they  are  very 
readily  destroyed. 

Gathering  the  Fruit. — Hand-picking  is  undoubtedly  the 
best  way  of  collecting  the  fruit,  and  whether  for  family  use  or 
the  market,  the  superior  quality  and  appearance  of  such  will 
command  a  price  that  will  more  than  cover  the  expense. 
Early  fruits  should  be  handled  very  carefully.  ^Winter  fruits 
may  remain  on  the  tree  till  the  approach  of  frost,  when  they 
should  be  collected,  and  those  for  sale  put  into  good  barrels 
at  once,  to  be  conveyed  to  market  when  required.  Those  in- 
tended for  family  use  should  be  placed  in  a  dry  shed  for  two 
weeks,  and  then  carefully  wiped  with  a  cloth,  and  put  away  in 
a  dry  cellar,  free  from  frost.  Those  that  are  required  to  keep 
till  May  and  June  should  be  packed  in  dry  sand,  or  some 
other  material,  to  exclude  them  from  the  air. 


THE    APRICOT. 

Prunus  armenica. — Abricotier.  Fr. — Aprikosenbaum,  Ger. 

The  Apricot  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  fruits,  and  has 
been  cultivated  for  about  eighteen  hundred  years.     It  is  a  na- 


166  euist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

tive  of  China  and  Japan,  growing  in  great  abundance  on  the 
dry  mountains  of  those  countries.  Some  travelers  also  men- 
tion of  its  being  found  in  Egypt.  The  fruit  is  much  esteemed 
for  making  marmalades,  jellies,  and  preserves.  In  its  plain 
state  it  is  considered  wholesome  and  strengthening.  In  Europe 
it  attains  to  very  great  perfection,  though  with  us  it  never  ap- 
pears to  grow  to  that  size  we  have  so  frequently  seen  it  there. 
A  Moorpark  Apricot,  twelve  inches  in  circumference,  is  a  very 
imposing  fruit,  compared  with  the  nut-like  productions  usually 
seen  in  our  markets.  It  ripens  at  a  very  desirable  period  of 
the  season,  between  the  period  of  the  late  Cherries  and  early 
Peaches.     We  introduce  the  following  as  the  best  sorts : 

Breda. — A  small  fruit,  about  four  inches  in  circumference, 
very  abundant,  round  form,  deep  brown-orange  color,  with  a 
few  blush  spots  towards  the  sun.  Flesh  deep  orange,  separat- 
ing from  the  stone  ;  flavor  good,  kernel  sweet,  which  is  a  dis- 
tinguishing character  in  this  variety. 

Hcmskirke. — Fruit  medium  size  (two  inches  diameter),  of  a 
round  form,  color  bright  orange.  Flesh  dark  orange ;  flavor 
very  juicy  and  rich.  Tree  of  vigorous  growth  and  an  abundant 
bearer. 

Moorpark. — It  is  admitted  that  this  variety  is  the  best  of  the 
family,  and  is  universally  cultivated.  I  have  seen  a  tree  of  this 
sort  that  covered  a  wall  sixteen  feet  high  and  one  hundred  feet 
long.  Its  growth  in  this  climate  is  not  so  free  as  the  former,  bat 
it  is  a  greater  bearer,  and  always  produces  a  crop.  Size,  the 
largest  from  two  to  four  inches  in  diameter ;  color  pale  yel- 
low ;  form  round-oval ;  flesh  bright  orange ;  separating  freely 
from  the  stone  ;  flavor  very  rich.  Growth  strong  ;  eyes  close  ; 
foliage  large.  Delights  in  a  deep,  sandy  loam.  Ripe  about  the 
middle  of  July.  The  whole  of  this  class  of  fruits  ripen  in 
this  month,  with  us  ;  but  if  picked  before  being  fully  ripe  and 
put  into  an  ice-house  they  will  be  in  eating  two  weeks  longer. 

Peach  Africot  or  Ahricot  'peche^  of  the  French. — There  is 
very  little  difference  between  this  variety  and  the  former ;  in- 


Am  I  COT.  167 

deed  it  is  so  trifling  that  very  few  could  detect  it.  It  possesses 
the  same  characters  and  ripens  at  the  same  time,  hut  the  wood 
has  not  the  eyes  so  closely  set  on  it,  nor  is  the  foliage  so  heart- 
shaped.  One  grand  essential  to  the  production  of  fine  Apri- 
cots is  to  thin  out  the  fruit  well,  not  allowing  it  to  remain 
within  two  or  three  inches  of  each  other.  There  are  about 
ten  other  varieties  of  the  Apricot,  but  all  inferior,  so  far  as 
has  been  tested  by  us,  to  those  now  described. 

Culture. — This  tree  rarely  succeeds  well  in  this  country 
unless  protected  by  a  wall  or  fence  ;  not  that  it  does  not  grow 
as  a  standard,  like  other  fruit  trees,  but  in  that  position  it 
rarely  matures  a  crop,  except  in  city  gardens,  the  early  Spring 
frosts  destroying  the  blossoms.  It  should  be  placed  on  an 
east,  west,  or  north  aspect,  avoiding  a  south.  It  requires  a 
good,  rich,  sandy,  loamy  soil.  The  Curculio  appears  to  be 
particularly  fond  of  the  fruit. 

Pruning  may  be  entirely  dispensed  with  after  the  tree  is 
formed,  merely  keeping  the  branches  within  bounds,  and  train- 
ing the  shoots  in  any  required  direction.  As  a  standard,  in 
<;ity  gardens,  it  is  both  useful  and  ornamental,  being  the  first 
tree  in  bloom  of  the  season,  having  a  large,  shining,  green 
foliage,  and  generally  producing  a  good  crop. 

Propagation. — It  is  too  frequently  budded  on  the  Peach 
stock  by  nurserymen.  On  such  it  is  short-lived,  not  constitu- 
tionally so,  but  the  stock  on  which  it  depends  for  life  fails  in 
a  few  years,  unless  the  Borer  be  prevented  from  attacking  it. 
The  best,  and  indeed  the  only  stock  that  should  be  used,  is 
the  Plum,  on  which  it  should  be  budded  in  July  or  August, 
and  on  it  will  grow  half  a  century.  Very  good  fruit  can  be 
raised  by  planting  the  stones,  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
Peach. 


i68  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

CHERRY. 

Cerasus^  var. —  Cerisier,  Fr. — Kirschenbaum^  Ger. 

Some  species  of  the  Cherry  is  native  to  every  temperate 
climate.  History  records  its  culture  before  the  Christian  era. 
It  is  the  earliest  of  our  stone  fruits,  and  comes  into  use  about 
the  8th  or  20th  of  June,  according  to  the  season.  The  tree  is 
of  great  diversity  of  habit,  size  and  shape.  The  fruit,  too, 
possesses  every  variety  of  flavor,  from  the  most  tart  to  a  honey 
sweet.  In  cookery  and  distillation  it  is  compounded  into  end- 
less forms.  In  ancient  and  modern  times  it  is  peculiarly  a 
wayside  tree — an  avenue  of  Cherry  trees  characterizing  the 
dwellings  of  the  great  in  the  16th  century.  The  medicinal 
properties  of  the  fruit  are  rather  vague,  though  it  is  considered 
wholesome.  Its  gum  is  supposed  to  be  nearly  equal  to  the 
gum  arable  of  commerce.  The  wood  is  extensively  used  in 
domestic  cabinet  work.  There  are  nearly  a  hundred  varieties, 
whose  qualities  may  all  be  embraced  in  half  a  dozen  sorts. 

Bigarrcau. — Color  pale  yellow,  with  red  cheek,  and  when 
fully  ripe,  of  a  bright  amber :  large  size,  irregularly  heart- 
shaped.  Flesh  firm,  adhering  to  the  stone  ;  rich  and  high  fla- 
vored. Stalk  about  two  inches  long  ;  growth  strong  and  up- 
right. A  great  bearer ;  hangs  long  on  the  tree.  Ripe  about 
the  4th  of  July. 

Black  Tartaria7i^  or  Black  Circassian. — Fruit  very  large  ; 
irregularly  heart-shaped  ;  of  a  shining  black  color  when  fully 
ripe  ;  stalk  an  inch  and  a  half  long.  Flesh  dark  purple,  very 
rich  and  juicy  ;  stone  quite  small.  Ripe  from  the  20th  to  the 
end  of  June.  The  finest  Rlack  Cherry  that  is  grown.  A 
handsome  tree,  of  rapid  growth  and  large  foliage. 

Carnation. — Color  a  bright,  shining,  waxy,  "marbled  red  ; 
fine  round  form ;  stalk  short  and  stout.  Flesh  tender  when 
fully  ripe,  of  a  rich  sub-acid  flavor.      One  of  the  best  cooking 


CHERRY.  169 


varieties.  Kipe  about  the  first  of  July,  and  hangs  long  on  the 
tree  ;  a  good  bearer.     Tree  low-growing  and  round-headed. 

Elton. — Color  pale,  waxy  yellow,  cheek  next  the  sun  of  a 
shining,  pale  red,  mottled,  or  streaked.  The  very  largest  size, 
heart-shaped  ;  stalk  one  and  a  half  to  two  inches  long.  Flesh, 
when  fully  ripe,  tender,  juicy  and  of  the  very  best  flavor. 
Ripe  about  the  20th  of  June.  Tree  of  strong  growth  and 
regular  form,  foliage  large. 

Kentish. — There  are  several  varieties  that  go  under  this 
name,  such  as  May  Cherry,  Early  Richmond,  Flemish  of  some. 
There  is  also  a  Late  Kentish,  or  Pie  Cherry,  very  common. 
The  sort  we  now  allude  to  is  the  Early  Kentish^  or  Early 
Richmond.  It  generally  produces  its  fruit  in  pairs,  of  a  fine 
dark  red  color  when  ripe.  Stalk  about  an  inch  long,  adhering 
to  the  stone.  Flesh  juicy,  of  a  rather  sharp,  acid  flavor.  Ripe 
from  the  15th  to  25th  of  June.  A  low,  spreading  tree,  in 
very  general  cultivation. 

Late  Duke. — Color  dark  red  ;  large  size  ;  of  a  heart  shape, 
rather  rounding.  Flesh  amber  colored,  rich  and  juicy.  Stone 
large,  oval.  Ripe,  end  of  July.  Does  well  in  light  soils.  An 
excellent  late  variety,  either  for  the  dessert  or  the  kitchen. 

May  Duke. — Every  lover  of  this  fruit  has  heard  of  the  May 
Duke  Cherry,  which  for  fine  flavor,  prolific  bearing,  and  early 
ripeness,  stands  alone.  When  fully  ripe  it  is  "  the  Cherry ^^^ 
and  should  be  in  every  garden  or  orchard.  Color  very  dark 
red,  round  form.  Flesh  very  juicy,  rich  and  melting  ;  stone 
small ;  a  great  bearer  ;  tree  regularly  formed,  wood  short  and 
full  of  spurs.  Ripe  about  the  8th  of  June.  This  variety  is 
invariably  pulled  before  it  is  ripe. 

Morfllo. — The  latest  of  all  the  Cherries.  It  hung  on  the 
tree  with  us,  last  year,  till  the  24th  of  August.  They  are  so 
tart  that  neither  birds  nor  bipeds  partake.  Fruit  round  ;  color 
very  dark,  or  quite  black  when  fully  ripe.  Flesh  very  dark, 
more  juicy  than  any  other  variety,  and  has  not  an  equal  for  the 
kitchen.     It  is  in  use  from  the  middle  of  July  to  the  middle 


170  euist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

of  August.  Tree  of  medium  growth,  round  and  pendulous 
form.     The  Common  Morello  is  a  smaller  and  inferior  variety. 

White  Bigarreau,  TVhite  Heart,  and  Oxheart  of  some. — It  is 
not  our  purpose  to  decide  what  fruits  belong  to  these  names, 
whereof  so  many  writers  disagree.  Our  object  is  to  call  at- 
tention to  the  variety  that  ripens  about  the  15th  of  June,  just 
between  the  May  Duke  and  the  Elton.  We  cultivate  it  under 
the  former  name.  Fruit  heart-shaped,  of  a  pale  yellowish- 
white  color,  with  a  marbled-red  on  the  side  towards  the  sun. 
Flesh,  when  fully  ripe,  tender  and  luscious  ;  stone  large.  Tree 
regularly  formed,  and  a  great  bearer  when  fully  established. 

These  constitute  the  best  of  the  Cherries,  and  such  as  pro- 
duce their  fruit  throughout  the  season.  I  am  aware  of  tlie 
very  high  character  borne  by  some  of  the  new  sorts,  which  we 
have  not  tested,  nor  have  they  been  fully  tried  by  others. .  To 
enter  into  a  detail  of  such,  would  frustrate  our  object,  in  di- 
recting attention  only  to  the  best  known  for  family  use  or  the 
market. 

Culture. — A  light,  sandy  loam,  in  an  open  exposure,  is  the 
best  soil  for  the  Cherry.  Though  we  have  them  bearing  fruit 
in  both  wet  and  dry  soils,  yet  the  finest  orchards  are  known  to 
be  on  a  rich,  sandy  loam,  over  a  gravelly  bottom.  We  prefer 
planting  this  tree  early  in  Spring  ;  they  will  require  to  be 
twenty-five  feet  apart.  The  pruning  is  of  the  simplest  form, 
many  of  the  kind  rarely  requiring  the  knife,  while  others,  as 
the  Bigarreau,  need  to  have  the  long,  rampant  shoots  that 
stretch  beyond  the  boundary  of  the  tree  shortened  every  Sep- 
tember, till  they  are  formed. 

Propagation  — This  is  done  both  by  budding  and  grafting. 
The  former  is  the  most  general  practice  of  nurserymen,  who 
sow  yearly,  in  August,  large  quantities  of  the  Common  Black 
Cherry,  about  one  inch  deep,  which  vegetate  freely  in  Spring, 
and  after  two  years  growth  are  fit  to  be  budded.  This  is  done 
in  August  or  even  the  first  of  September,  according  to  the 


CURRANT.  171 


weather.  Transplant  the  stocks  one  year  before  they  are 
■worked  ;  they  thus  make  more  fibrous  roots,  and  when  required 
to  be  moved  again  will  grow  with  greater  certainty. 

The  Cherry  is  brought  to  our  markets  in  the  most  slovenly 
state,  in  large  tubs,  and  frequently  pulled  from  the  stems,  a 
mere  compound  of  half-bruised,  half-rotten,  and  half-ripe  fruit, 
and  of  course  it  brings  much  less  than  its  real  value.  Cher- 
ries should  be  pulled  with  care,  having  the  stems  all  at- 
tached to  the  fruit,  and  handled  as  little  as  possible.  If  for 
the  table,  pick  them  a  few  hours  before  they  are  wanted,  and 
put  them  in  a  cool  place.  If  for  the  market,  put  them  in 
shallow  vessels  to  prevent  bruising  as  much  as  possible.  They 
will  bring  double  the  price  of  fruit  in  the  ordinary  state. 


CURRANT. 

Rihes  riibrum. —  Groseille  a  grappes  d'outre^  Fr. — 
Johaniiisbure^  Ger. 

The  Red  and  Black  Currant  of  the  gardens  are  considered 
natives  of  the  northern  parts  of  Europe.  The  Black  is  evi- 
dently an  inhabitant  of  a  cool  climate,  for  it  rarely  produces 
its  fruit  in  perfection,  the  berries  falling  before  being  ripe. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  Currants  natives  of  North  Amer- 
ica, but  very  different  in  habit  and  character  from  those  culti- 
vated. There  are  few  or  no  medicinal  virtues  attached  to  the 
fruit.  "  Currant  Wine"  is  a  beverage  that  was  known  to  our . 
fathers,  but  has  been  superseded  by  the  more  expensive  and 
fashionable  '•  Port  and  Madeira."  The  fruit  has  a  pleasant, 
cooling,  acid  flavor,  relished  by  most  individuals  when  ripe. 
From  it  there  is  a  very  excellent  jelly  made,  an  indispensable 
condiment  to  many  fashionable  dishes  of  the  day.  The  green 
fruit  is  also  used  for  tarts,  but  for  that  purpose  is  much  infe- 
rior to  Rhubarb  and  Gooseberries. 


172  BUIST'S    FAlVnLY    KITCHEN    C  iiRDENER. 

Rlhes  nlgra^  or  the  Black  Currant^  is  a  very  rich  fruit,  pro- 
duced in  bunches  of  from  three  to  five  inches  long,  but  requires 
a  moist,  cool  situation,  shaded  from  the  noon-day  sun.  There 
are  several  varieties  of  it,  called  Black  Gra-pe^  Black  Naples^ 
and  the  Common  Black.  The  fruit  is  made  into  jelly  or  jam, 
and  much  used  in  consumptive  complaints. 

The  Red  Currant  is  a  very  familiar  fruit,  susceptible  of 
great  improvement  by  culture,  worthy  of  the  best  care,  and 
generally  gets  none.  There  are  several  varieties  of  it,  at  least 
it  is  grown  under  a  variety  of  names.  I  have  cultivated  New 
Red.,  Knighfs  Early  Red,  Red  Grape,  and  lastly,  Maifs  Victo- 
ria., neither  of  which  excel  the  old  Red  Dutch  that  I  cultivated 
twenty-five  years  ago.  Red  Currants  and  Kaspberries  make 
the  finest  jelly. 

Chamyagne. — This  is  a  variety  evidently  between  the  Red 
and  White,  of  a  pink  color. 

White  Dutch. — The  White  Currant  is  preferred  for  the  table, 
it  being  more  sweet  and  palatable  than  any  of  the  other  sorts. 
It  grows  like  the  two  preceding,  and  requires  the  same  treat- 
ment. 

Propagation  and  Culture. — The  best  mode  of  increasing 
this  plant  is  by  selecting  cuttings  of  good,  strong,  young  wood, 
about  a  foot  long.  The  eyes  from  the  lower  part  of  the  shoot, 
for  about  eight  inches,  must  be  cut  out  previous  to  planting, 
which  will  prevent  suckers  being  thrown  up  from  the  roots. 
Plant  them  as  early  in  Spring  as  the  ground  can  be  prepared, 
or  late  in  the  Autumn,  just  before  the  ground  is  closed  with 
the  frost.  A  partially  shaded  situation  is  most  suitable, 
though  they  will  do  in  any  rich,  moist  ground  ;  in  two  years 
they  will  make  fine  plants,  when  they  must  be  removed  to 
where  they  are  intended  to  itmain  for  fruiting,  (suckers  and 
layers  should  never  be  used).  Their  after-culture  is  merely 
to  train  up  the  plant  to  one  stem,  about  a  foot  high,  then  allow 
it  to  spread  and  ramify  uniformly,  but  never  admit  it  to  sucker 
from  the  root. 


FIG.  173 

Pruning. — Thin  out  the  shoots  to  allow  all  to  stand  free 
and  clear  of  each  other,  then  shorten  back  the  young  wood 
from  about  three  to  six  inches  of  the  preceding  year's  growth. 
This  makes  the  bushes  spur^  as  gardeners  term  it,  and  on 
these  spurs  the  fruit  is  produced.  The  plant  must  be  yearly 
supplied  with  manure  among  their  roots,  digging  the  ground 
carefully  every  Spring  or  Fall.  By  this  treatment  the  fruit 
will  be  like  bunches  of  Grapes,  and  form  a  great  contrast  to 
the  meagre  affairs  so  generally  seen  in  our  markets.  Even  in 
our  best  gardens  their  culture  is  very  imperfectly  attended  to, 
producing  fruit  all  skin  and  seeds,  and  giving  a  very  faint 
idea  of  the  richness  and  perfection  to  which  it  can  attain. 
Plant  them  eight  feet  apart,  and  if  well  treated  they  will  last 
twenty  years. 


FIG. 

Ftcus  Cdrica. — Figuier,  Fr. — Feigenbaum,  Ger. 

The  Fig  is  one  of  the  fruits  first  mentioned  in  history.  Its 
cultivation  appears  to  have  been  coeval  with  that  of  the  Apple 
and  the  Grape.  It  has  been  admitted  through  all  ages  as  an 
article  of  food,  and  some  nations  have  been  so  exceedingly  fond 
of  the  fruit  that  its  exportation  was  forbidden.  If  history  is 
to  be  relied  on,  we  are  retrograding  in  the  culture  and  im- 
provement of  the  Fig.  Pliny,  the  Roman  naturalist,  is  said 
to  have  accurately  described  about  thirty  sorts.  It  was  exten- 
sively used  in  all  ceremonies,  and  was  presented  to  appease 
anger.  Asia  is  its  native  country,  and  we  read  of  specimens 
of  the  fruit  having  been  brought  from  the  "  Land  of  Canaan." 
It  is  cultivated  to  an  immense  extent  in  the  south  of  Europe, 
and  dried  and  exported.  Many  thousand  tons  reach  this 
country  that  might  be  grown  with  great  facility  along  our 
fences,   froiii  North  Carolina  to  Florida      It   is   not   hardy 


174  buist's  family  kitchen  g>.rl:k:ner. 

enough  to  stand  our  Winters  without  protection  ;  but  south 
of  Virginia  it  might  be  made  an  article  of  profit,  independent 
of  its  healthful  influence  on  the  constitution.  There  are  sup- 
posed to  be  about  forty  varieties,  though  we  might  very  readily 
class  them  into  the  White,  Black,  and  Brown. 

Black  IscMa^  about  two  inches  long  and  two  inches  in  diam- 
eter, rather  flat  towards  the  apex  ;  deep  purple  color.  Flesh 
red,  of  excellent  flavor,  and  very  productive.  They  all  ripen 
in  July,  August,  and  September ;  and  again  a  small  crop  in 
April  and  May. 

Brown  Turkey. — In  general  culture.  Size  smaller  than  the 
former  :  color  brown  ;  a  great  bearer.     Flesh  pale  red. 

White  Marseilles^  White  Celestial^  &c. — Fruit  pale  yellowish- 
white  ;  round  form;  medium  size.  Flesh  rose-white,  very 
high  flavored  ;  *  a  great  bearer. 

PROPAGATioN.-^The  Fig  is  increased  by  cuttings  and  layers 
of  the  preceding  year's  wood,  which  root  readily  in  moist, 
sandy  soil.  Cuttings  of  about  a  foot  in  length,  planted  any 
time  from  November  to  February,  in  a  shaded,  moist,  soil, 
will  root  the  first  season,  when  they  may  be  planted  into  a 
situation  appropriated  for  them.  Layers  are  made  by  taking 
a  branch  of  two  to  three  feet  long,  making  an  incision  in  it 
nearly  half  way  through  the  shoot,  entering  the  knife  half  an 
inch  below  an  eye  and  drawing  it  towards  the  point  of  the 
shoot  about  two  inches,  which  will  form  what  gardeners  call  a 
tongue,  on  the  lower  extremity  of  which  is  the  eye  ;  bend  this 
portion  gently,  placing  it  under  the  ground  about  four  inches, 
where  it  will  form  roots  in  a  few  months.  Early  the  following 
Spring  these  layers  may  be  taken  ofi"  and  planted  where  they 
are  required. 

Culture. — The  Fig  is  not  very  particular  in  regard  to  soils. 
We  have  seen  it  covering  an  extent  of  forty  feet  by  twenty, 
in  all  kinds  of  soils,  from  sand  to  clay  ;  but  the  fairest  fruit  is 


FILBERT.  175 


obtained  from  trees  grown  on  a  sandy,  loamy  soil,  with  a  dry 
bottom.  On  very  rich  soils  it  grows  too  much  to  wood,  on 
very  poor  soils  the  fruit  ripens  prematurely.  Fig  orchards 
should  be  planted  about  twenty  feet  apart,  and  cultivated  be- 
tween the  trees,  till  they  nearly  cover  the  ground.  Never 
speak  of  your  figs  blooming  :  they  never  flower,  to  the  eye ; 
and  the  mode  of  fructifying  is  rather  a  speculation,  even  in 
the  present  day.  "  There  is  something  very  singular  in  the 
fructification  of  the  Fig  :  it  has  no  visible  flower,  for  the  fruit 
arises  immediately  from  the  joints  of  the  tree,  in  the  form  of 
little  buds,  with  a  perforation  at  the  end,  but  not  opening  or 
showing  anything  like  petals  or  the  ordinary  parts  of  fructifi- 
cation. As  the  Fig  enlarges,  the  flower  comes  to  maturity  in 
concealment,  and  in  eastern  countries  the  fruit  is  improved  by 
a  singular  operation  called  caprification.  This  is  performed  by 
suspending  by  threads,  above  the  cultivated  figs,  branches  of 
the  wild  fig,  which  are  full  of  a  species  of  cynips.  When  the 
insect  has  become  winged,  it  quits  the  wild  Fig  and  penetrates 
the  cultivated  ones,  for  the  purpose  of  laying  its  eggs ;  and 
thus  it  appears  both  to  insure  the  fructification  by  dispersing 
the  pollen,  and  afterwards  to  hasten  the  ripening  by  punctur- 
ing the  pulp  and  causing  a  change  of  the  nutricious  juices.  In 
France  this  operation  is  imitated  by  inserting  straws  dipped 
in  olive  oil." — Lib.  of  Ent.  Knowledge. 

Pruning. — '•  The  more  you  prune  the  less  the  crop,"  is  pro- 
verbial in  Fig  culture.  All  that  is  required  is  to  shorten  any 
irregular  or  overgrowing  shoot,  and  cut  out  dead  wood,  of 
which  more  or  less  will  show  itself  every  few  years. 


FILBERT. 

C&rylus  Avelldna. — Noisette,  Fr. — Nussbaum,  Grer. 
The  common  Hazel  Nut  will  never  be  an  article  of  profit  to 
the  American  gardener  or  husbandman  ;  yet  we  introduce  the 


176  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

subject  for  some  wlio  cultivate  for  pleasure,  variety,  and 
amusement.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that  all  good  things  come 
"  from  the  east :"  so  say  writers  on  the  Filbert.  It  comes 
from  Pontus.  Thousands  grow  wild  on  the  "  braes  "  of  Scot- 
land, and  millions  are  over  the  whole  United  States,  from 
Maine  to  Texas.  Cultivation  has  greatly  improved  the  size, 
but  we  doubt  of  the  flavor  being  more  delicious.  In  its  wild 
state  it  is  a  large-sized  shrub,  with  a  gray  colored  bark,  and 
roundish,  heart-shaped  leaves.  The  male  catkins  (flowers)  ap- 
pear on  the  preceding  year's  shoots,  in  Autumn,  and  wait  all 
"Winter  for  the  expansion  of  the  female  flowers  in  Spring.  The 
varieties  in  quality  are  all  very  similar,  though  they  consider- 
ably differ  in  appearance.  The  Red^  White.  Cosford,  and  Friz- 
zled, are  sufficient  for  cultivation. 

Propagation. — By  layers,  as  directed  for  Figs  ;  by  suckers, 
which  spring  ui^  freely  from  the  roots ;  or  by  seeds,  that  maybe 
purchased  at  the  fruit-stores,  in  any  of  our  cities. 

Culture. — They  like  a  heavy,  moist  loam,  and  will  grow 
where  partially  shaded.  Plant  them  eight  or  ten  feet  apart. 
Prune  as  directed  for  currants,  merely  to  check  the  super- 
abundant growth,  to  throw  them  into  spur-buds,  for  fruiting. 


GOOSEBERRY. 

Rlbes  Grossuldria. —  Groseille  a  Maqitereau,  Fr. — Stachelbeers- 
trauch,  Grer. 

This  fruit,  so  extensively  cultivated  in  Britain,  and  also  in 
some  parts  of  this  country,  is  not  at  all  adapted  to  a  south- 
ern climate.  It  is  only  occasionally  that  a  crop  is  attained 
here,  even  with  the  best  of  care.  It  requires  a  cool  climate, 
or  some  local  cause,  to  attain  the  perfection  for  which  it 
is  so  justly  celebrated.     It  is  a  native  of  this  country  and  Eu- 


GOOSEBERRY.  177 


rope.  We  have  seen  it  wild  on  the  Alleghany  mountains  ;  and 
before  we  see  it  perfect  in  culture,  we  must  re-produce  from  our 
native  sorts.  It  is  highly  esteemed  in  culinary  purposes  for 
tarts  and  preserves  ;  and  when  fully  ripe  is  laxative,  and  con- 
sidered a  very  wholesome  dessert  fruit.  The  finest  crops  we 
have  seen  in  this  country  were  grown  in  the  vicinity  of  Mon- 
treal and  the  Lakes^and  near  Pittsburg,  between  the  Alleghany 
and  Monongahela  rivers,  over  which  the  smoke  of  that  city  of 
iron  continually  rolls,  during  June,  July,  and  August,  which 
entirely  prevents  the  mildew,  the  only  enemy  to  the  culture 
of  this  fruit  in  this  quarter.  There  are  a  thousand  varieties 
of  it,  which  may  be  detailed  in  Reds^  Whites^  Yellows  and 
Greens^  all  fancifully  named,  according  to  the  ideas  of  the 
growers.     They  ripen  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  July. 

Propagation. — The  method  is  precisely  as  detailed  for  Cur- 
rants, both  in  culture  and  pruning.  In  warm  seasons,  just 
after  rain,  some  sorts  are  frequently  attacked  with  mildew, 
which  baffles  our  skill  to  prevent,  though  we  may  retard  its 
progress  by  showering  them  with  sulphur-water.  The  cure, 
however,  is  nearly  as  bad  as  the  disease.  Mildew  makes 
its  appearance  about  the  middle  of  June,  in  the  form  of  brown- 
ish-white spots  on  the  fruit.  As  soon  as  observed,  the  berries 
may  at  once  be  pulled  for  the  kitchen  or  market,  for  they 
never  get  over  it,  and  the  longer  they  hang  the  worse  they  be- 
come. It  is  not  soil  that  is  the  cause,  for  we  have  had  them 
some  seasons  all  destroyed,  while  last  year  the  same  plants,  in 
the  same  ground,  were  as  fine  as  they  could  be,  in  size,  form, 
and  flavor.  It  is  an  atmospheric  disease,  and  only  that.  The 
fruit  is  in  size  from  half  an  inch  to  two  inches  in  diameter ; 
the  medium  sized  are  the  best  flavored.  The  very  largest  have 
been  known  to  weigh  an  ounce  and  a  half;  but  they  are 
uniformly  of  inferior  quality.  For  flavor  none  excel  the  fol- 
lowing : 


178 


BUIST^S    FAMILY    KITCHEN    GARDENER. 


Reds. 
E,ed  WarringtGiij 
Champagne, 
Roaring  Lion, 
Rough  Red, 
Red  Jam, 
Lancashire  Lad. 

Whites. 
Queen  of  Sheba, 
White  Eagle, 
Venus, 
White  Smith, 
White  Sulphur, 
Hedgehog. 


Yellows. 
Golden  Yellow, 
Early  Sulphur, 
Yellow  Ball, 
Golden  Hero, 
Ashton  Yellow, 
Viper. 

Greens. 
Gregory's  Perfeetiois, 
Green  Ocean, 
Green  Laurel, 
Green  Gage, 
Jolly  Angler, 
Green  Gascoigne, 


GRAPE. 

Yitis:,  var. —  Vigne,  Fr. —  Weintrauben,  Ger. 

The  culture  of  the  vine  is  spoken  of  in  the  remotest  ages. 
The  antediluvians  were  no  doubt  perfectly  familiar  with  its 
growth  and  manufacture  into  an  intoxicating  drink.  Provi- 
dence, with  a  bountiful  hand,  distributes  copiously  over  the 
earth  those  fruits  which  are  for  the  comfort  and  luxury  of  man, 
who  frequently  converts  these  blessings  into  a  curse,  manufac- 
turing with  his  own  hands  an  engine  for  his  destruction.  The 
practice  of  not  allowing  vines  to  mature  their  fruit  till  the 
fourth  year,  was  inculcated  by  Moses,  who  lectured  on  the  sub- 
ject to  the  Israelites.  The  Egyptians  ascribed  the  manufac- 
ture of  wine  to  Osiris,  and  the  Grecians  to  Bacchus,  whom,  for 
the  discovery,  they  elevated  to  the  rank  of  a  deity.  Pliny  de- 
scribes many  kinds  of  grapes,  one  shaped  like  a  finger,  which 
appears  to  be  lost.    They  had  a  vine  at  that  period,  near  Roma 


GRATE.  179 


that  annually  produced  about  three  barrels  of  pure  juice.  In 
those  days,  young  men  under  thirty,  and  women,  all  their  life- 
time, were  forbidden  to  drink  wine.  How  would  these  regu- 
lations suit  the  moderns  ?  Plato  loved  wine  :  he  says,  "  No- 
thing more  excellent  or  valuable  than  wine  was  ever  granted 
by  God  to  man."  Ignatius  Marennius  killed  his  wife  with  a 
billet  of  wood,  having  caught  her  drinking  wine.  He  was 
tried,  and  was  acquitted  of  murder  ;  but  history  does  not  say 
whether  it  was  by  his  gold  or  a  justification  in  the  circum- 
stances that  he  obtained  his  freedom.  Cato  records  that  the 
custom  of  kinsfolk  kissing  women  when  they  met,  was  to  know 
by  their  breath  if  they  had  been  drinking  wine  !  There  is  no 
fruit  so  wholesome — none  so  generally  palatable — none  that 
can  be  so  universally  cultivated — and  none  so  remunerating  as 
the  Grape.  Its  rapidity  of  growth,  productiveness,  long  life 
and  simplicity  of  culture,  may  enable  every  farmer,  at  least,  to 
live  literally  under  his  own  vine.  There  is  not  a  farmer  or 
planter  from  New  York  to  New  Orleans  but  may  cultivate, 
with  a  very  small  outlay,  an  abundance  of  this  fruit.  I  never 
see  long,  naked  post-rail  fences,  but  am  reminded  of  the  neg- 
lect of  this  fruit:  not  that  it  does  not  deserve  the  very. best 
of  ground,  the  most  studied  culture  ;  but  here  is  a  waste  of 
land  and  the  very  support  that  would  produce  thousands  of  tons 
of  this  inestimable  fruit.  The  extent  of  its  culture  in  Ohio  and 
other  States  is  rapidly  increasing.  N.  Longworth,  Esq.,  of 
Cincinnati,  a  zealous  horticulturist,  has  one  hundred  acres  under 
culture,  which  he  rents  out  to  Swiss  and  German  vine-dressers, 
who  therefrom  have  an  excellent  living,  and  make  him  a  boun- 
tiful return.  The  fruit  is  manufactured  into  wine,  and  sold 
at  from  75  cents  to  $1.50  per  gallon,  and  the  produce  of  that 
vicinity  is  about  six  hundred  barrels.  This  is  merely  "  a  drop 
in  the  bucket,"  compared  with  the  immense  import  of  the  past 
year.*     For  this  purpose  their  standard  Grape  is  the  Catawba, 

*  After  deducting  the  export,  there  remains  for  home  consumptioa 
3,105,166  gallons,  at  a  cost  of  $1, 131,038. 


180  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

and  other  native  Grapes,  of  whicli  the  following  are  the  best. 
If  our  own  advice  could  prevail,  we  would  plant  only  Isabella 
and  Catawba,  or  improved  varieties  therefrom. 

Bland  or  Powell. — Color  pale  red  ;  fruit  round  ;  bunches 
short,  with  two  or  three  shoulders  when  well-grown.  Flesh 
pulpy,  with  a  half  sweet,  subacid  flavor,  and  a  little  of  the  pe- 
culiar musky  tinge,  characteristic  of  the  Fox  Grrape.  Foliage 
pale  green  underneath,  and  more  rounding  than  any  of  the 
following  sorts. 

Catawba. — One  of  the  best  native  Grapes ;  bunches  rather 
regularly  formed,  with  a  few  shoulders.  Fruit  round,  of  a 
bright  red  or  coppery  color  when  ripe.  Flesh  pulpy ;  rather 
juicy,  and  sweet  when  fully  ripe,  with  a  musky  flavor.  Foliage 
pale  green,  with  a  white  down  underneath,  and  more  reflexed 
than  that  of  the  Isabella,  which  it  very  much  resembles.  This 
variety  is  most  esteemed  for  wine,  and  when  fully  ripe,  in- my 
estimation,  is  the  best  of  our  native  grapes  for  the  table,  though 
I  cannot  go  so  far  as  to  say  "  it  is  luscious  and  high-flavored." 

Elsingborough^  Elsenborough^  Elsinbwg. — This  Grape  is 
a  native  of  the  sandy  soils  of  New  Jersey,  where  it  is 
considered  the  best  of  the  American  Grapes.  Bunches  small, 
compact  and  shouldered  ;  berries  small,  jet  black,  round,  with 
a  thin  skin.  Flesh  without  pulp,  sweet  and  well-flavored. 
Foliage  coarse,  deeply  five-lobed.     Wood  slender,  very  hardy. 

Isabella. — This  variety  is  hardier  than  either  of  the  form- 
er, and  may  be  cultivated  as  far  north  as  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Bunches  long,  tapering,  with  very  few  shoulders.  Berries 
oval,  jet  black,  with  a  tine  bloom.  Skin  thick.  Flesh  a  little 
pulpy,  very  sweet,  with  a  little  touch  of  the  musky  flavor. 
Ripe  about  the  end  of  September,  but  improves  by  hanging  on 
the  vines  till  frost.  I  have  repeatedly  handed  ripe  fruit  of 
this  Grape,  with  that  of  the  Black  Hamburg,  to  individuals 
entirely  unacquainted  with  the  flavor  of  grapes,  and  they  have 
generally  pronounced  the  Isabella  the  best  and  sweetest  Grape. 


CxRAPE.  181 

Foliage  large,  tliree-lobed,  witli  a  white    down   underneath. 
Wood  very  strong,  of  a  brownish-red  color. 

OJiio^  or  the  Segar-Box  Grape. — This  variety  was  brought 
into  notice  by  Mr.  Longworth,  of  Cincinnati.  Its  history  is 
rather  obscure,  though  there  is  no  doubt  of  its  being  a  native. 
It  approaches  nearer  the  Elsinburg  than  any  other  we  culti- 
vate, but  is  not  so  hardy  as  that  sort.  Bunches  long,  compact, 
and  tapering,  with  one  or  two  shoulders.  Berries  small,  round, 
and  jet  black,  with  a  thin  skin.  Flesh  sweet  and  well  flavor- 
ed ;  the  seeds  large.  Wood  strong,  shorter  jointed  than  either 
the  Isabella  or  Catawba,  and  requires  to  be  laid  in  thin,  or 
the  fruit  rots  off  before  ripening.  The  plant  is  rather  tender 
for  us,  being  severely  injured  with  me  last  Winter.  All  our 
native  Grapes  ripen  from  the  1st  of  September  to  the  1st  of 
October ;  but  I  have  found  the  flavor  greatly  improved  by 
hanging  on  the  vine  as  long  as  possible,  keeping  clear  of  frost. 
There  are  few  bunches  that  will  weigh  one  pound. 

Propagation  of  the  native  Grape  is  a  very  simple  process. 
They  will  all  grow  assuredly  from  layers  of  the  preceding 
year's  wood,  or  even  of  the  wood  of  the  current  year.  All  that 
is  required  is  merely  to  bend  a  shoot  to  the  ground,  make  a 
hole  four  inches  deep,  and  place  the  bend  of  the  shoot  in  it. 
Cover  it  up  firmly  with  the  earth ;  give  it  frequent  waterings 
in  dry  weather.  In  the  month  of  November  it  will  be  fit  to  cut 
from  the  parent  to  plant  in  the  vineyard,  or  in  any  other  requir- 
ed locality.  When  it  is  planted  out,  cut  it  down  to  about  two 
eyes  from  the  ground ;  allow  one  of  these  only  to  grow  the  fol- 
lowing season.  It  is  also  propagated  by  cuttings  very  general- 
ly, though  there  are  some  sorts  rather  shy  to  root  by  this  me- 
thod. We  also  grow  them  from  eyes,  as  directed  for  foreign 
vines.  "Grafting  can  also  be  accomplished  on  the  vine.  Al- 
low the  stock  to  grow  till  it  has  made  a  leaf  or  two,  then  take 
a  scion  that  has  been  retarded  in  a  cool  place,  and  prepare  it 
either  for  whip  or  wedge  grafting. 


182  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

By  Cuttings. — Shoots  of  last  season's  wood,  cut  into 
lengths  of  about  a  foot  long  (of  many  of  the  sorts),  and  plant- 
ed into  any  rich,  light  soil,  nearly  their  whole  depth,  will  root 
in  one  season,  and  by  care  and  pruning  they  will  grow  to  fine 
plants  in  two  years ;  when  they  should  be  planted  out  where 
they  are  intended  to  remain. 

Soil. — The  native  vine  will  grow  in  any  kind  of  soil,  except 
that  of  a  wet  or  clayey  nature,  and  on  any  exposure  and  situa- 
tion, except  low  valleys,  where  in  some  seasons  it  mildews  and 
drops  its  fruit.  The  best  soil  is  a  rich  and  friable  loam,  under 
which  there  is  a  stony,  sandy,  or  gravelly  bottom.  They  do 
not  require  excessively  rich  soils,  but  they  stand  in  need  of 
semi-annual  dressings  with  manures  or  rich  composts,  and  if 
this  is  withheld  they  will  deteriorate  in  quality  and  quantity. 
The  soil  must  be  properly  ameliorated  and  enriched  before 
planting,  and  if  trenched  with  the  spade  or  plough,  the  benefit 
derived  will  amply  repay  the  cost.  For  vineyards,  plant  them 
six  feet  apart,  and  eight  feet  from  row  to  row ;  train  them  to 
trellises  or  poles  made  of  Red  Cedar  wood,  or  White  Oak. 
Eight  feet  in  height  for  field  culture  will  be  sufficient ;  but  for 
city  gardens,  where  borders  of  rich  soil  are  prepared  for  them, 
they  will  grow  to  any  height,  even  to  the  roof  of  a  five  story 
dwelling,  and  there  produce  excessive  crops.  Trellises  for 
training  may  be  made  of  any  shape  or  form,  but  those  that  are 
upright  are  preferable. 

Pruning. — On  the  proper  execution  of  this  operation  greatly 
depends  the  prosperity  and  fruitfulness  of  the  vine.  There  is 
frequently  so  great  a  mystery  thrown  around  these  simple  at- 
tentions that  the  timid  are  afraid  even  to  touch  the  vine  with 
the  knife  ;  while  others,  whose  boldness  goes  farther  than  their 
knowledge,  cut  right  and  left  with  considerable  dexterity, 
feeling  satisfied  if  they  show  that  the  wood  is  at  least  cut  ofi^. 
To  cut  the  shoots  from  three  to  ten  eyes  of  the  preceding  year's 
wood,  according  to  its  strength,  is  a  good  general  rule.     To 


GRAPE.  183 

put  our  ideas  in  a  tangible  form,  we  will  begin  with  the  young 
plant.  As  above  stated,  cut  it  to  within  two  eyes  from  the 
ground,  from  which  allow  one  shoot  to  grow  for  the  first  sea- 
son, and  now  call  it  a  plant  one  year  old  ;  if  the  soil  is  in  good 
order  it  will  be  fifteen  feet  long.  In  November,  or  before 
February,  cut  that  shoot  to  about  two  feet  from  the  ground, 
and  allow  three  shoots  to  grow.  They  will  each  attain  fifteen 
to  twenty  feet.  It  is  now  two  years  old.  About  the  same 
period  of  the  season  lay  the  two  lowest  of  these  shoots  hori- 
zontally and  cut  them  to  about  twenty  inches  from  the  main 
stem  ;  the  most  upright,  cut  at  about  two  feet  from  the  stem  and 
allow  the  plant  to  make  fruit  this  (the  third)  year.  Six  bunches 
will  be  quite  enough.  The  plant  being  now  formed,  and  hav- 
ing made,  in  the  fourth  season,  a  quantity  of  branches  all  cov- 
ered with  fruit,  it  is  advisable  to  take  only  one  bunch  ofi"  each, 
and  never  take  more  than  two.  Leading  branches  will  be  re- 
quired ^or  the  future  plant.  These  may  extend  to  fill  up  any 
given  space,  but  all  others  must  be  topped  two  eyes  beyond 
the  fruit ;  that  is,  leave  on  two  leaves  nearer  the  extremity  of 
the  shoot  than  the  bunches  hang.  This  topping  should  be 
performed  early  in  June,  and  when  they  make  fresh  shoots 
top  them  again  and  again.  The  leading  shoots  must  also  be 
topped  as  soon  as  they  are  at  their  required  length.  Where 
vines  are  needed  to  cover  high  arbors,  or  reach  the  top  of 
dwellings,  the  shoots  in  the  first  and  second  year  may  be  left 
from  six  to  ten  feet  long. 

Slimmer  Pruning  is  generally  very  injudiciously  performed. 
The  vines  are  allowed  to  grow  in  every  form  till  July  or  Au- 
gust, when  they  are  thinned  out  and  deprived  of  a  great  deal 
of  young  wood  and  foliage,  at  the  very  time  the  plants  require 
to  have  it.  Go  over  the  vines  in  May  and  deprive  them  of 
all  the  branches  that  crowd  each  other ;  six  inches  to  twelve 
apart  is  proper  distance  to  lay  in  young  wood ;  rub  off"  all 
others,  using  only  the  finger  and  thumb  in  the  operation ;  tio 
in  the  shoots  as  they  advance,  and  top  them  as  soon  as  they 


184  buist's  family  kitchen  gaudener. 

have  made  two  eyes'  growth  "beyond  the  fruit,  except  the  lead- 
ers, as  above  intimated. 

There  is  pothing  in  the  above  that  is  not  perfectly  simple, 
and  may  be  put  in  practice  by  any  farmer,  along  every  fence 
rail. 


FOREIGN    GRAPE. 

This  is  the  Vltisvinifera  of  botanists,  a  fruit  of  the  East, 
where  it  lu5:uriates  in  profusion,  being  the  food  and  drink  of 
many  of  the  inhabitants  of  those  countries.  In  these  climates 
it  grows  without  limit,  and  even  under  the  dry,  genial  suns 
of  France  and  the  countries  bordering  on  the  Mediterranean 
Sea,  it  attains  great  perfection.  This  climate,  however,  is  in- 
imical to  its  growth,  and  after  bearing  for  a  few  years,  it.  sud- 
denly dies  off.  Its  perfection  can  only  be  attained  under  glass ; 
but  with  that  as  a  cover,  and  a  knowledge  of  the  cause  and  effect 
of  the  disease  to  which  it  is  subject,  it  will  amply  repay  the 
attention  paid  to  its  culture.  For  such  a  purpose  we  introduce 
the  following  varieties : 

Black  Frontignan. — A  very  rich-flavored  Grrape,  with  a  pe- 
culiar, musky  flavor.  Bunches  rather  small,  long  and  compact. 
Berries  medium  size ;  skin  thin,  covered  with  a  violet  bloom. 
A  good  bearer ;  bunches  about  one  pound  weight. 

Black  Hamburg  is  the  best  of  all  Grrapes,  taking  into  con- 
sideration its  combined  qualities  of  productiveness,  large  size, 
and  fine  flavpr.  Bunches  rather  tapering,  with  two  or  three 
shoulders,  making  what  is  called  a  well-shouldered  bunch. 
Berries  large,  sometimes  four  inches  in  circumference,  rather 
round,  of  a  jet  black  color,  but  vary  very  much  under  different 
treatment ;  in  a  warm,  moist,  or  dry  atmosphere,  ripening  from 
a  pale  red  to  its  proper  color  ;  skin  rather  thick.  Flesh  rich, 
juicy  and  melting.  It  is  a  very  large  bunch,  weigliing  three 
pounds. 


FOREIGN    GRAPE.  185 


Black  Prince. — If  the  Black  Hamburg  has  a  rival,  it  is  in 
this  Grape.  In  this  vicinity,  growers  generally  prefer  it. 
Bunches  tapering  and  well  shouldered.  Berries  large,  of  a 
fine  black,  not  so  closely  set  on  the  bunch  as  the  Hamburg. 
Flesh  melting,  juicy  and  high  flavored.  A  great  bearer  and 
always  colors  well.  A  very  large  bunch  will  weigh  three 
pounds ;  wood  strong. 

Charges  Henling. — A  black  Grrape  from  the  south  of  France, 
introduced  by  me  four  years  ago.  Bunches  long  and  tapering. 
Berries  medium  size ;  color  jet  black,  with  a  violet  bloom. 
Flesh  melting,  very  juicy,  spicy  and  sprightly  ;  flavor  distinct 
from  any  other  Grape.  A  great  bearer,  either  in  pots  or  in 
the  ground ;  bunches  ffom  a  pound  to  a  pound  and  a  half. 

Chasselas  Golden^  White  Chasselas^  Royal  Muscadine .^  White 
Muscadine^  Chasselas  de  Fontainebleau^  with  many  other  names, 
all  belong  to  two  varieties  of  the  Grape,  very  much  assimulated. 
and  in  which  there  is  great  confusion.  Bunches  long  and  ta- 
pering, with  one  or  two  shoulders.  Berries  medium  size ;  of  a 
white,  changing  to  a  bright,  transparent,  golden  color,  when 
fully  exposed  to  the  sun.  Flesh  tender,  melting^  rich  and 
sugary.  A  prolific  bearer.  We  have  seen  a  vine  in  a  pot 
with  twenty-nine  bunches  of  fruit  on  it. 

Decants  Superb. — A  new  Grape,  imported  by  me  three  years 
ago,  and  promises  to  be  the  finest  white  Grape  we  have  in 
culture  for  size  and  bearing,  with  an  excellent  flavor.  Bunches 
large,  well  shouldered.  Berries  perfectly  round,  three  to  four 
inches  in  circumference ;  of  a  greenish-white  color.  Flesh 
and  flavor  very  similar  to  the  Hamburg.     A  strong  grower. 

Muscat  of  Alexandria. — Bunches  large,  as  broad  as  they  are 
long.  Berries  oval,  of  a  fine  yellowish-white  color.  Flesh 
firm,  with  a  rich,  sweet,  musky  flavor,  peculiar  to  this  variety ; 
few  seeds  ;  requires  to  be  fully  transparent  before'  being  cut ; 
in  fact  it  is  not  ripe  till  it  begins  to  shrivel.  Many  growers  cut 
it  before  maturity.  A  large  bunch  will  weigh  two  pounds.  A 
very  strong  grower. 


186  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

Muscat  blanc  hatif^  or  Early  White  Muscat. — A  very  early 
sort,  with  well  formed  bunches.  Berries  perfectly  round,  of  a 
yellow-white  color.  Flesh  very  rich,  juicy,  spicy,  and  high 
flavored.  A  great  bearer  ;  large  bunches  will  weigh  a  pound 
and  a  half 

Red  Frontignan^  or  Grizzly  Frontignan.- — Bunches  long  and 
tapering.  Berries  perfectly  round,  of  a  copper  or  red  color ; 
medium  size,  and  set  thickly  on  the  bunch.  Flesh  rich,  spicy, 
juicy  and  excellent.  The  best  of  Grapes ;  when  once  tasted,  if 
perfectly  ripe,  it  will  not  be  forgotten.  The  fruit  should  hang 
on  the  vine  till  it  begins  to  shrivel.  A  large  bunch  will  weigh 
a  pound  and  a  half 

WesfSj  St.  Feters,  or  Black  Lombardy. — Bunches  very  long 
(fifteen  inches)  if  well  grown.  Berries  round,  of  a  dull  red 
color,  closely  set.  Flesh  juicy  and  melting.  Will  hang  on 
the  vines  till  frost ;  for  this  it  is  valuable.  Foliage  very  -much 
lobed,  very  large  branches.  Will  weigh  two  and  a  half  to 
three  pounds.     A  strong  grower  and  great  bearer. 

WJiite  Frontignan. — In  character  and  flavor  like  the  Bed. 
Color  of  a  waxy  white,  with  a  fine  powdery  bloom  on  the  fruit. 

WTiiie  Sweet  Water. — Very  early.  Bunches  rather  small, 
as  is  the  fruit.  Berries  round,  of  a  pale-green,  transparent 
color.  Flesh  thin,  sugary,  and  sweet.  A  very  distinct  sort ; 
large  bunches  will  weigh  one  pound. 

Erections. — We  here  admit  that  the  above  described  G-rapes 
cannot  be  grown  in  the  open  air  with  any  degree  of  success. 
We  therefore  propose  to  give  a  simple  detail  for  a  cheap  and 
permanent  structure  for  their  protection.  There  are  few  gar- 
dens of  any  pretensions  that  have  not  glass  sash  for  hot-beds, 
pits,  &c.,  during  Winter.  By  way  of  economy,  and  to  suit 
those  who  are  parsimonious  in  rural  afiairs,  we  propose  erect- 
ing a  building  to  suit  those  sashes,  which  generally  remain 
unemployed  during  the  season  from  April  to  November,  the 
very  time  that  the  Grape  vines    require  their  aid.     Admit 


FOREIGN  GRAPE.  187 


that  the  sashes  of  the  frames 

are  six  feet  loDg,  and  those 

of  the  pit  are  seven  feet, 

these,  according  to  Fig.  25, 

will  cover  a  G-rapery  nine 

feet  high  at  the  back,  ten 

feet   wide,  and  seven   feet 

high  in  front,  allowing  two  '  Fig.  25. 

feet  for  a  low  front  wall,  or  plank.     This  G-rapery  may  be  of 

any  length,  and  can  be  placed  against  any  wall,  building,  or 

good  permanent  fence,  at  very  little  cost ;  and  from  it  heavy 

crops  of  Grapes  may  be  obtained  every  year.     In  the  Winter 

season,  the  vines  are  to  be  laid  down,  after  being  pruned,  in 

any  convenient  position,  and  protected  by  hay,  straw,  or  boards. 

In  April  the  vines  can  be  tied  up,  and  the  sashes  put  on  them 

whenever  they  can  be  spared  from  the  frames  and  pits.     For 

the  admission  of  air,  a  portion  of  the  sasli  can  be  moveable  and 

fixed  with  springs,  or  hooks  and  staples. 

Soil. — There  is  very  little  difference  of  opinion  in  regard 
to  tbe  nature  of  the  soil  genial  to  the  growth  and  maturity  of 
the  Grape.  All  agree  that  it  should  be  light  and  porous,  on 
a  dry  bottom.  The  great  Grape-growing  countries  are  of  that 
nature,  and  the  vineyards  are  all  planted  on  rising  ground  or 
declivities.  The  various  modes  of  accomplishing  this,  is  fre- 
quently very  ludicrous.  A  great  pit  is  prepared,  three  to  four 
feet  deep,  filled  with  one  or  two  feet  of  stones,  bricks,  and 
other  rough  material,  over  which  is  put  a  mixture  of  offal,  bones, 
lime,  and  other  rich  manures,  with  a  small  portion  of  good, 
virgin  earth.  In  such  receptacles  the  roots  very  soon  rot,  the 
vines  become  weak,  and  finally,  after  a  few  years  of  meagre 
existence,  they  die — as  might  have  been  expected.  If  we 
could  make  a  choice  of  locality,  or  even  no  choice,  the  most 
appropriate  place  on  level  ground  would  be,  to  plant  the  vines 
OP  the  surface,  or,  in  other  words,  make  the  vine  border  above 


188  buist's  family  kitchen  gardenep.. 

the  ground.  It  would  then  always  be  dry  and  sweet,  and  if 
too  dry,  water  might  be  given  when  required.  Soils  for  the 
growth  of  this  plant  must  be  dry,  and  free  from  excess  of 
moisture  at  any  season.  The  excrementitious  matter  dis- 
charged from  the  roots  of  a  vine  is  very  great,  and  if  this  be 
given  out  in  cold,  retentive  soils,  they  soon  become  diseased, 
and  a  pale  and  languid  vegetation  ensues.  If,  therefore,  the  bot- 
tom is  not  naturally  dry,  make  it  so  by  draining.  Having  ob- 
tained a  dry  bottom,  by  rough  materials  of  any  description,  cover 
it  to  the  desired  height  with  fresh  turf  from  a  rich  pasture,  and 
dig  in  one-fourth  of  well-decomposed  manure,  at  least  one 
year  old,  interspersing  it  with  a  few  bones  of  any  description, 
oyster  shells,  road  scrapings  from  the  turnpike,  or  any  other 
enriching  material  that  undergoes  slow  decomposition.  The 
whole  must  be  repeatedly  turned,  and  allowed  to  settle  before 
the  vines  are  planted.  Extreme  caution  has  to  be  used  in  ad- 
ministering bone  dust,  slaughter-house  offal,  and  other  rich 
manures,  especially  if  the  vines  are  to  be  planted  in  it  the  same 
season.  The  surface  of  the  soil  should  have  a  descent  to  carry 
off  rains  and  snows.  Never  crop  vine  borders,  nor  tread  much 
upon  them.  Have  a  trellis  walk  laid  on  the  soil,  for  the  daily 
operations  of  training,  tieing,  pruning,  &c.  Stir  up  the  sur- 
face of  the  border  once  a  year  with  the  fork,  and  give  it  a 
dressing  of  manure.  From  these  remarks  it  must  not  be  in- 
ferred that  vines  will  not  grow  unless  in  richly  prepared  soils. 
They  will  grow  well  in  poor,  dry,  sandy  soils,  provided  they 
have  annually  a  good  portion  of  rich  vegetable  or  animal 
matter  dug  into  them  every  Autumn,  and  a  covering  of  ma- 
nure during  Winter — the  rains  passing  through  which  will 
strengthen  the  soil  and  enable  it  to  give  great  growths  and 
good  crops. 

Propagation. — This  is  frequently  done  by  layers,  of  which 
we  have  given  a  hint  under  the  culture  of  Native  Grapes  ;  also 
by  cuttings  of  last  year's  wood :  but  the  best  method  of  grow- 


FOREIGN    GRAPE.  189 


ing  fine  plants  is  by  the  single  eye.  This  is  the  favorite  mode 
of  propagating  plants  for  fruiting.  Early  in  February  or 
March  we  cut  the  shoots  of  the  preceding  year's  wood  into  eyes, 
leaving  about  an  inch  on  each  side  of  the  eye,  plant  these 
with  their  eyes  uppermost  into  pots,  and  place  them  under 
glass,  either  in  cold  or  hot  frames  prepared  for  the  purpose,  or 
in  the  window  of  a  warm  room,  where  they  will  be  carefully 
watered.  These  eyes  may  easily  be  made  to  grow  ten  or 
twelve  feet  the  first  season,  by  constant  repotting  and  water- 
ing with  liquid  manure.  Plants  grown  by  this  method  are  de- 
cidedly the  best  rooted,  forming  more  capillary  fibres,  conse- 
(juently  more  nutritious  support  to  the  vine  is  absorbed  ;  they 
form  shorter  joints,  and  are  capable  of  producing  a  greater 
(pantity  of  fruit.  We  have  seen  a  plant  of  the  Black  Ham- 
burg, only  eighteen  months  from  the  eye,  have  nine  bunches, 
weighing  about  eight  pounds. 

Transplanting. — If  Grape  vines  have  been  cultivated  in 
pots,  they  may  be  transplanted  at  any  period  of  the  year, 
though  we  give  preference  to  the  months  of  October,  Novem- 
ber, March  or  April.  Admitting  the  ground  is  fully  prepared, 
dig  out  a  place  for  the  reception  of  the  roots,  eighteen  inches 
deep,  and  as  wide  as  the  roots  require,  to  lay  them,  at  their 
full  length,  without  bending  or  twisting  in  any  manner.  If 
any  of  them  are  broken  or  diseased,  cut  them  off.  Keep  the 
roots  near  the  surface,  distributing  among  them  fine  earth ; 
give  each  three  or  four  gallons  of  water,  allow  it  to  subside, 
when  fill  up  with  earth  and  press  it  down  gently  with  the  foot. 
In  such  a  house  as  we  have  figured,  one  plant  to  each  sash 
will  be  enough.  The  back  of  the  house  may  be  planted  with 
Figs,  which  should  be  covered  up  in  Winter,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  vines.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  for  the  health  of 
the  vine  that  it  should  be  planted  where  the  sun  will  fully 
shine  upon  it  during  some  hours  of  the  day.  We  have  often  ob- 
served small  vines  planted  in  front  of  the  house,  where  they  are 


190  buist's  family  kitchen  gap.dener. 

entirely  shaded  from  tlic  sun,  and  had  to  struggle  for  weeks  or 
months  before  they  reached  the  full  light  and  air.  In  such  a 
case  it  is  preferable  to  grow  the  plants  in  pots,  till  they  are  the 
required  height.  The  first  season's  growth  should  be  confined 
to  one  stem  only,  carefully  cutting  off  all  lateral  shoots  within 
two  eyes  of  the  main  stem. 

Winter.  Pruning. — This  subject  is  extensively  treated  on 
by  all  writers  on  the  vine,  in  the  horticulture  of  Great  Britain  ; 
and  those  who  have  undertaken  the  subject  in  this  country  ap- 
pear to  adopt  their  words.  It  may  do  in  some  soils  and  lati- 
tudes, but  when  put  in  practice  here,  many  of  the  eyes  intended 
for  fruiting  the  coming  season  start  to  growth.  The  error  we 
will  take  the  liberty  to  point  out.  In  the  preceding  paragraph 
we  advise  the  first  season's  growth  to  be  confined  to  one  stem  ; 
this  having  been  done,  cut  this  shoot  down  to  the  bottom  of  the 
glass,  and  allow  two  shoots  to  grow  from  it  the  next  season, 
and  take  one  bunch  of  fruit  from  the  strongest  shoot,  if  it 
shows  any.  These  shoots  are  to  be  trained  as  far  as  they  will 
grow.  Writers  say,  '•  top  them  when  one-third,  or  at  farthest, 
half-way  up  the  rafter  :"  if  this  is  done  in  our  climate,  and  the 
vines  in  strong  health,  one-half  of  the  eyes  below  the  stoppings 
will  grow  at  once,  ruining  the  vine  for  one  year.  ■  Our  climate 
elaborates  the  juices  of  the  plant  so  fully  that  a  stoppage  of  its 
growth  has  two  results,  viz. — either  destroying  the  roots  or 
causing  a  greater  reproduction  of  wood ;  which  in  this  case  is  a 
decided  injury.  The  next  Winter  cut  the  weakest  shoot  to 
about  one  eye  from  the  previous  year's  wood ;  and  the  strong- 
est lay  in  two  or  three  feet  of  the  past  season's  growth.  This 
portion  will  have  ten  or  twelve  eyes,  all  of  which  will  break  and 
produce  fruit.  Take  only  one  bunch  from  each  eye  ;  the  other 
shoot  allow  to  grow  its  full  length  without  fruit  during  the  sea- 
son. The  next  Winter  cut  back  the  strong  shoot  that  has  pro- 
duced the  large  crop  to  within  two  eyes  of  the  old  wood,  and 
allow  one  shoot  to  grow  therefrom.     The  strong  shoot  is  to  be 


FOREIGN    GRAPES,  191 


laid  in,  or  cut  back  to  two  or  three  feet  long  for  fruiting  ]  one 
shoot  to  be  trained  without  fruit  for  the  next  year's  crop. 
There  may  be  on  the  vine  four  shoots,  or  the  number  required, 
one-half  of  which  lay  in  to  fruit  every  year,  and  cut  back  the 
other  half  for  fruiting  the  following  season.  This  is  termed 
the  lo?ig-  cane  system^-  and  is  the  one  we  recommend. 

Spur  System  of  Pru7iing^  which  is  exceedingly  simple  in  de- 
tail and  practice,  and  the  largest  crops  of  Grapes  we  have  ever 
seen,  were  from  vines  trained  on  this  mode.  It  is  as  follows : 
A.II0W  one  shoot  to  extend  from  the  plant,  the  whole  height  of 
the  house.  If  every  thing  is  in  good  order,  this  shoot  will  be 
at  least  three  inches  round.  If  under,  there  is  a  deficiency ;  cut 
it  back,  and  give  it  another  year's  gro^vth.  If  over  it,  the  vines 
are  loo  strong,  cut  this  shoot  to  about  four  feet  of  the  old  wood  ; 
from  the  sides  of  this  stem,  young  shoots  or  spurs  push  forth, 
which  bear  fruit.  Take  only  on«  buneh  from  eaeh,  and  stop 
the  growth  two  eyos  above  the  bunches.  At  each  Winter 
pruning,  these  spurs  are  cut  back,  leaving  two  or  three  eyes 
to  each.  These  again  send  out  other  spurs  ;  take  one  bunch 
from  each,  and  so  continue  from  year  to  year,  and  you  will  have 
fruit  in  great  abundance,  though  not  so  fine  as  on  the  former 
juetliod.*  Many  err  in  this  system  in  taking  two  bunches  of 
fruit  from  each  eye,  instead  of  one  only.  Winter  pruning 
sliould  always  be  done  as  soon  as  the  leaves  have  fallen,  other- 
wise the  vine  is  deprived  of  matter  which  would  have  been 


.  *  Since  tke  above  was  prepared  for  the  press,  we  have  had  an  inter- 
view with  one  of  the  best  grape-growers  under  glass,  in  the  country, 
at  whose  Grapery,  last  year,  we  saw  fruit  of  the  finest  quality,  in  regard  to 
color,  size,  and  flavor.  He  adopts  both  methods  of  pruning,  but  greatly 
prelers  the  cane  training  as  being  most  simple — the  vine  having  only 
one  or  two  wounds  made  on  it,  the  fruit  swelling  faster,  coloring  better, 
and  maturing  two  weeks  before  that  of  the  spur  pruning,  where  the  com- 
parison was  fair;  being  without  fire  heat.  He  also  syringes  his  vines 
freely,  till  the  fruit  is  about  the  size  of  peas,  and  never  afterwards.  He 
never  saw  red-spider  on  his  vines,  and  very  rarely  mildew.  Observe 
that  all  our  remarks  apply  to  grape  houses  without  artificial  heat. 
0 


,92  buist's  family  kitchen  gaudener. 

stored  up  in  the  remainiug  parts.  Never  prune  back  wood  of 
the  present  year  to  one  eye,  as  is  usually  recommended,  but 
leave  a  long  spur  of  three  eyes  ;  the  eye  or  bud  nearest  the 
old  stem  is  frequently  blind,  and  even  if  it  does  show  fruit,  it  is 
not  so  fine  as  the  eyes  farther  up  the  shoot ;  but  be  careful  to 
retain  the  best,  and  rub  off  the  remainder  at  the  earliest  stage 
of  growth,  always  encouraging  the  base  bud  shoot  to  be 
retained  for  the  next  season's  operation.  Summer  jwuning 
must  be  strictly  attended  to,  stopping  every  shoot  two  leaves 
above  the  bunch,  after  which  laterals,  or  new  shoots,  will  soon 
be  produced.  These,  stop  again  every  two  weeks,  to  concen- 
trate the  energy  of  the  plant  on  the  swelling  of  the  fruit. 

Thinning  the  Fruit. — This  portion  of  culture  is  too  frequent- 
ly neglected.  As  soon  as  the  berries  are  the  size  of  small 
peas,  cut  out  about  one-third  of  them  with  a  pair  of  sharp- 
pointed  scissors  This  will  allow  the  others  to  swell  more  freely. 
Again,  before  they  begin  to  color,  if  they  appear  crowded,  thin 
out  the  smallest.  This  will  not  reduce  the  weight  of  the 
bunch,  unless  the  thinning  is  carried  to  extreme.  Never  touch 
the  fruit  after  it  begins  to  color.  Handling  destroys  the  fine 
bloom  on  the  fruit,  which  is  a  point  of  beauty.  Tieing  up  the 
shoulders  does  not  improve  the  fruit  nor  add  to  the  effect. 

Routine  of  Culture  under  glass,  without  fire  heat.  As 
soon  as  the  frosty  nights  are  over,  clean  all  the  wood-work  by 
washing,  or  white-washing.  Lift  up  the  vines  from  where  they 
have  been  laid  all  Winter,  and  wash  them  with  strong  soap- 
suds, or  soft  soap  and  tobacco  water,  rubbing  off  all  the  loose 
bark,  and  cleaning  them  thoroughly.  After  which  tie  them  up 
to  the  places  appropriate  for  them.  Every  morning  after  they 
begin  to  grow,  give  them  a  syringing  with  water,  about  an 
hour  after  sun-rise,  provided  the  sashes  are  on  the  house.  If 
the  sashes  are  not  on,  they  do  not  require  it  so  frequently. 
About  the  end  of  April,  or  first  of  May,  the  sashes  must  ne- 
cessarily be  put  on  to  protect  tlie  blossom,  encourage  the 
growth,  and  prevent  injury  in  cold  nigl  ts. 


NECTARINE.  193 


When  the  fruit  has  set,  the  vines  may  be  syringed  every 
afternoon,  about  four  o'clock^  having  previously  shut  up  the 
house,  not  to  be  opened  again  till  the  sun  has  fairly  tempered 
the  atmosphere  next  day,  which  will  generally  be  from  nine  to 
ten  o'clock,  if  the  house  fronts  south,  when  air  must  be  given  by 
the  top  sashes,  not  allowing  the  thermometer  to  go  higher  than 
from  90  to  110  degrees. 

During  the  warm,  cloudy  days  of  July  and  August,  mil- 
dew is  sure  to  appear,  and  has  frequently  accomplished  great 
destruction  before  it  is  discovered.  It  is  readily  known  by  a 
yellow,  sickly  transparency  on  the  leaf,  or  a  greasy,  soft  feel 
when  you  lay  hold  of  it.  The  best  cure  is  to  give  copious 
syringings  of  water,  twice  a  day,  giving  plenty  of  air  to  the 
house  from  ten  to  three  o'clock,  in  sunshine.  If  it  has  far 
gone,  pour  four  gallons  of  boiling  water  over  five  pounds  of  flower 
of  sulphur,  stir  it  well,  and  after  allowing  it  to  settle,  mix  a  fourth 
of  this  water  with  that  which  is  used  for  syringing,  which  will 
entirely  kill  all  mildew.  Never  leave  the  doors  open  for  any 
length  of  time  ;  it  causes  cold  draughts  of  air  through  the  vines. 
Cease  syringing  as  soon  as  the  fruit  begins  to  color.  Grive 
water  to  the  roots  every  week,  whilst  they  are  in  a  growing 
state,  till  the  fruit  has  fully  swelled. 

The  hints  we  have  thrown  out  on  the  culture  of  this  truly 
luscious  fruit  will,  wc  think,  enable  any  one  to  grow  it  at  least 
to  a  small  degree  of  perfection  ;  and  with  a  mediocrity  of  cau- 
tion and  observation,  good  and  regular  crops  may  be  obtained 
for  either  pleasure  or  profit. 


NECTARINE. 

Ami/gdalisj  var. — Bruguon,  Fr. — Nedarpjlrsche,  Q-er. 
I  HAVE  never  considered  this  fruit  as  any  other  production 
than  a  garden  variety  of  the  Peach,  from  which  it  is  only  dis- 
tinguished  by   the   smoothness   of  the    skin.     Many  highly 
wrought  descriptions  of  it  have  extolled  it  as  being  finer  fla- 


194  BUIST's    family    kitchen    GAPv-DENER. 

vored  than  the  Peach.  If  so,  it  has  not  been  our  good  fortune 
to  have  tasted  such  :  on  the  contrary,  we  consider  it  an  infe- 
rior variety  of  that  fruit,  and  of  an  inferior  flavor.  Neither 
will  the  Nectarine  ever  be  so  universally  cultivated,  being  gen- 
erally of  a  smaller  size  ;  and  the  smoothness  of  its  skin  is  fa- 
vorable to  the  attacks  of  the  Curculio,  which  destroys  them  in 
quantities  every  season,  stinging  the  fruit  even  worse  than  the 
Plum ;  and  until  we  can  entirely  extirpate  these  animals,  it 
will  be  a  scarce  fruit  in  this  vicinity.  The  following  five  sorts, 
from  about  twenty,  will  form  a  select  collection. 

Boston. — An  American  variety,  by  Mr.  Lewis,  of  Boston, 
and  brought  into  notice  by  S.  Gr.  Perkins,  Esq.  Color  bright 
yellow,  with  red  cheek.  A  sweet  and  pleasant  flavor,  large 
size.    Freestone. 

Downtoa. — Fruit  of  a  greenish-white  color,  with  a  dark  red 
cheek.  Flesh  very  rich,  melting,  and  juicy  ;  large  size,  and 
the  very  best  quality.    Freestone. 

New  White. — Is  of  a  creamy-white  color,  medium  size. 
Flesh  white,  rich,  melting,  and  rather  juicy.     A  freestone. 

Pitmaston  Orange. — Fruit  medium  size,  of  a  bright  golden- 
yellow  color,  with  a  red  cheek.  Flesli  deep  yellow,  melting, 
rich  and  sweet,  fine  flavor.     Freestone. 

Red  Roman. — One  of  the  oldest  and  most  celebrated  varie- 
ties. Fruit  large,  of  a  yellowish-green  color,  with  a  dull  red 
cheek,  specked  with  brown.  Flesh  firm,  pale  yellow,  juicy,  rich 
and  very  high  flavored.  Equal  to  the  Downton,  but  is  a  cling- 
stone. 

Violcile  hative. — Fruit  very  similar  to  the  former,  with  a 
greenish-white  flesh.      A  freestone. 

They  all  ripen  from  the  1st  of  August  to  the  1st  of  Sept. 

Cultivation. — The  soil  and  culture  suitable  for  the  Peach 
perfectly  agrees  with  the  Nectarine.  It  is  also  budded  in  the 
same  manner,  and  if  practicable  should  always  be  obtained  on 
the  Plum  stock. 


PEACH.  195 


PEACH. 

Amy'gdalis  Persica. — Pecker,  Fr. — PJirschbaum,  Ger. 

It  is  to  be  supposed  that  every  inhabitant  of  the  United  States 
is  familiar  with  the  Peach.  In  both  flavor  and  appearance  it  is 
legitimately  a  fruit  of  this  country,  though  a  foreigner — a  na- 
tive of  Persia,  where  it  has  been  known  from  the  earliest  ages. 
History  says  it  was  first  sent  by  the  king  of  Persia  into 
Egypt,  with  the  view  of  poisoning  the  inhabitants,  with  whom 
he  was-then  at  war  :  and,  strange  to  say,  most  of  the  ancient 
writers  describe  this  fruit  as  possessing  deleterious  qualities. 
The  leaves  of  the  tree,  however,  contain  prussic  acid.  From 
the  days  of  Virgil  the  fruit  has  been  considered  of  first-rate 
excellence,  which  few  will  dispute ;  and  the  Peaches  of  this 
country  are  equal  to  any  in  the  world.  With  the  purposes  for 
which  they  are  used  every  one  is  familiar.  They  are  cultivat- 
ed in  the  States  of  New  Jersey  and  Delaware  by  the  tens  of 
thousands  of  acres — one  family  alone  employing  a  steamboat 
in  the  Peach  season,  to  carry  their  fruit  to  market.  There 
are  hundreds  of  varieties  cultivated — many  orchards  of  natu- 
ral fruit  without  names,  and  other  orchards  of  a  more  profitable 
character,  containing  only  a  very  few  select  sorts,  known  for 
their  superior  merits.  The  following  twenty  kinds  we  note 
as  being  such,  whilst  we  will  not  deny  that  there  may  be 
others  equally  as  good  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  unknown 
to  us. 

Alherge,  or  Yellow  Rare-ripe. — Color  bright  yellow,  red 
cheek,  round  form,  large  size.     Ripe  early  in  August— ^ree. 

Columbia. — Color  brownish-yellow,  striped  red,  round  form, 
large  size.     Ripe  about  the  middle  of  September — -free. 

Early  Melocoton  (Crawford's). — Color  brownish-yellow ;  red 
cheek;  oval  form.     Ripe  15th  August — -free. 

Early  York.— Qo\oy  dark  red  ;  round  form  ;  medium  size ; 
excellent  quality  ;  a  great  bearer.    Ripe  10th  of  August— ;/ree. 


196  BUIST'S    FAMILY    KITCHEN    GARDENER. 

Foxe^s  Seedling. — Color  greenish- white  ;  red  cheek  ;  round 
form  ;  large  size.     Ripe  early  in  September. 

Favorite  C^QQ-ve's). — Color  yellowish-red  ;  roundform.  Ripe 
early  in  September— /?-6e. 

George  4th. — Color  greenish-white ;  red  cheek ;  round 
form  ;  large  size.     Ripe  end  of  August— -fr^e. 

Gross&  Mig7io7ine,  or  Royal  George — with  about  twenty 
other  names,  is  a  large  round  Peach,  rather  flattened ;  color 
greenish-yellow ;  a  mottled  red  cheek ;  flesh  white,  red  at  the 
stone.  The  first  Peach  we  became  familiar  with,  and  have 
seen  it  eleven  and  a  half  inches  in  circumference.  Ripe  in 
August— //-ee. 

Imperial  (Darby). — Color  yellow-brown,  with  dull  red 
cheek  ;  round  form.     Ripe  middle  of  September — -free. 

Late  Heath. — Color  white  ;  faint  red  cheek  ;  oval '  form. 
Ripe  in  October — cling. 

Late  Mclocoton  (Crawford's). — Color  dull  yellow  ;  dark  red 
cheek  ;  roundish  form.     Ripe   12th  to  2.5th  September — -free. 

La  Grange. — Color  greenish-white  ;  oval  form.  Ripe  10th 
September — free. 

Morris  White. — Color  pure  white ;  oval  form.  Ripe  early 
in  September — free. 

Nonpareil  (Scott's). — Dull  yellow;  red  cheek;  roundisii 
form.     Ripe  15th  September-^ree. 

Old  Mixon  (free). — Color  dull  red ;  oval  form.  Ripe  early 
in  September. 

Old  Mixon  (cling). — Color  dull  red ;  round  form.  Ripe 
early  in  September. 

Red  Check  Mclocoton — Color  yellowish-green ;  dull  red 
cheek;  oval  form.     Ripe  18th  September — free. 

Red  Rare-Ripe. — Color  greenish-white  ;  dark  red  cheek ; 
oval  form.     Ripe  end  of  August — -free. 

Rodman''^  Red. — Color  dull  red ;  oval  form.  Ripe  end  of 
September  and  1st  of  October — cling. 


PEACH.  197 

Tippecanoe. — Color  bright  yellow,  with  red  cheek;  oval 
form.     Ripe  10th  to  20th  September — cling. 

Propagation. — This  is  of  the  simplest  character.  It  is 
usually  performed  by  planting  the  stones  (or  pits),  in  No- 
vember, about  two  inches  deep,  in  rich,  light,  or  sandy  soil. 
These  nearly  all  Vegetate  in  the  Spring,  and  can  be  budded 
the  following  September,  or  about  the  end  of  August.  They 
are  then  headed  down  close  to  the  bud,  early  in  the  Spring, 
when  they  will  make  a  growth  of  from  three  to  nine  feet  the  first 
season,  with  lateral  branches  all  up  the  stem.  In  some  parts 
of  Ohio,  Kentucky,  and  Mississippi,  the  stones  are  planted  in 
November,  budded  the  end  of  the  following  June,  headed  down 
in  July,  and  make  a  growth  of  four  to  six  feet  all  within  one  year 
of  the  stone  being  planted.  These  operations  are  all  performed 
on  the  Peach-stone.  The  tree  is  consequently  short-lived ; 
but  being  so  readily  replaced,  that  is  not  generally  considered 
of  much  consequence.  However,  we  would  prefer  budding  for 
our  own  use  on  the  Plum  stock.  The  tree  will  live  half  a  cen- 
tury thereon,  and  will  not  be  subject  to  the  Borer,  which  is  a 
great  enemy  to  the  Peach  stock. 

Planting. — If  we  wish  to  reap  the  fruit,  we  must  prepare 
the  soil.  As  the  foundation  is  laid,  so  will  the  erection  stand. 
Plough  or  dig  your  soil  deep  ;  manure  well  the  year  previous  ; 
plant  your  trees  twenty  feet  apart,  which  will  take  one  hundred 
to  the  acre.  Our  remarks  on  planting  Apples-will  apply  here. 
Cultivate  the  ground  with  a  light  crop,  giving  manure  every 
two  years. 

Pruning. — This  is  very  indifferently  attended  to  in  the 
Peach.  The  trees  are  allowed  to  grow  at  random — long,  strag- 
gling branches,  with  the  fruit  at  the  extremity,  bending  them 
to  the  ground,  and  never  thinned  out.  The  result  is,  the  first 
storm  breaks  half  of  the  limbs,  and  the  fruit  does  not  grow 
over  half  its    size,    ripening  preiiiature'y.    and  commanding 


198  BUIST'S    family    kitchen    GARDElVlEli. 

about  one^third  the  price  of  full-grown,  well-ripened  fruit.  It 
is  twenty  years  since  we  pruned  Peach  trees,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  we  have  described  for  Currant  bushes,  keeping  the 
young  wood  thin,  and  shortening  every  growth  in  the  Fall  or 
Winter  pruning.  The  trees  are  thereby  made  more  compact, 
not  so  liable  to  be  bi*oken,  and  produce  finer  fruit ;  the  beauty 
of  the  tree  is  improved,  and  its  age  lengthened. 

The  Borer,  or  Pcach-ivorm,  is  very  destructive  to  this  tree. 
The  insect,  according  to  Say,  is  a  dark-blue,  four-winged,  slen- 
der moth,  depositing  its  egg  during  the  Summer  months  around 
the  tree,  close  to  the  surface  of  the  ground.  Ashes  have  been 
long  used  as  a  protective  ag-ainst  this  destroyer,  with  very 
good  effect ;  and  recently  half  a  peck  of  air-slacked  lime,  heaped 
round  the  tree  during  the  month  of  May,  is  considered  as  a 
perfect  antidote,  effectually  securing  the  tree  against  its  ene- 
my. The  lime  is  spread  over  the  ground  after  the  fall  of  the 
leaf,  and  a  fresh  supply  given  every  year  at  the  above  period. 

There  is  a  disease  called  '•  The  Yellows,^''  very  prevalent  in 
some  orchards,  which  is  attributed  to  a  variety  of  causes. 
The  main  one,  we  presume,  will  generally  be  found  in  unge- 
nial  soil,  and  overcropping  of  the  trees.  We  say,  thin  out  the 
crop — do  not  allow  one  fruit  to  be  within  two  inches  of  it;* 
neighbor.  Shorten  the  young  growths  of  the  tree  by  Winter 
pruning,  and  cut  out  others  where  they  are  too  thick,  thereby 
giving  plenty  of  air  to  all  parts  of  the  tree.  Manure  every 
other  year  and  crop  light.  With  such  a  routine  of  culture  the 
Yellows  will  be  a  stranger.  Trees  that  produce  a  crop  of  fruit 
which  is  yearly  carried  eff  the  ground,  must  have  some  return, 
by  enriching  the  soil,  either  by  manure  from  the  stable-yard, 
or  rich  composts  of  lime,  marl,  plaster,  &a 


PEAR.  199 


PEAR. 


Pyrus  communis. — Foirier,  Fr. — Birnbaum,  Grer. 
The  present  period  is  a  very  exciting  one  on  the  culture  of 
this  fruit,  which  ranks  in  flavor  next  to  the  Peach ;  but  in 
point  of  healthfulness  and  general  utility,  for  domestic  pur- 
poses, it  will  be  second  to  the  Apple.  In  its  wild  state  it  is 
equally  disseminated  with  that  fruit,  but  we  doubt  of  its  cul- 
ture ever  being  so  universal,  it  being  more  subject  to  diseases, 
especially  to  blight.  Some  soils  are  entirely  noxious  to  it, 
while  others  nourish  it  to  extreme  old  age.  It  is  also  longer 
in  coming  to  a  fruit-bearing  state  than  the  Apple,  though  some 
of  the  recent  kinds  appear  to  produce  fruit  as  early  as  the 
third  or  fourth  years  from  the  bud,  and  frequently  the  second 
year  from  the  graft.  As  a  dessert,  or  table  fruit,  it  is  prefera- 
ble to  the  Apple,  and  is  also  very  important  for  cooking  pur- 
poses. In  some  countries  Perry  is  made  from  the  fruit,  in  the 
same  manner  that  we  do  cider,  for  which  purpose  there  are 
special  productive  varieties.  Within  the  past  twenty  years 
the  immense  multiplication  of  sorts  renders  it  a  very  intricate 
task  to  select,  from  the  multitude,  a  few  well  adapted  for  gen- 
eral cultivation,  because  the  variety  that  does  best  in  some  sec- 
tions of  the  country  nearly  fails  in  others,  and  those  that  are 
described  from  the  fruit,  as  being  the  best  in  size  and  flavor, 
on  trial  prove  to  be  the  worst  in  productiveness.  One  of  the 
most  celebrated  horticulturists  of  the  age,  who  does  all  his 
"  own  thinking,"  writing  to  me  from  "  Boston,  September  20, 
1846,"  says:  '•  There  is,  in  my  view,  too  much  of  a  rage  for 
new  fruits,  and  the  old  superior  varieties  are  neglected.  Of 
Pears  they  have  here  near  two  hundred  varieties,  and  possibly 
twenty  of  fair  quality."  I  will  however  give  an  outline  de- 
scription of  a  few,  slightly  transcending  that  limited  number, 
and  vouch  for  all  of  them  being  of  the  very  best. 

Summer  Pears.     Madeline. — Fruit  pear-shaped,  rather  un- 
der the  medium  size,  with  a  long  foot-stalk.     Color  pale  yel- 
9* 


200  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

low-green.     Flesh  white,  very  rich,  juicy,  and  high  flavored  ; 
a  great  bearer.     Ripe  20th  July. 

Bloodgood. — Fruit  round'ing,  flat  at  the  eye,  medium  size ; 
color  yellow,  with  a  brown  cheek.  Flesh  yellowish-white,  rich 
and  sugary,  with  a  fine,  aromatic  flavor.     Ripe  1  st  of  August. 

Julienne. — Fruit  rather  under  medium  size  ;  oval  form;  co- 
lor bright  yellow.  Flesh  buttery  and  juicy.  Ripe  early  in 
August.     Fruit  should  be  plucked  a  fow  days  before  ripe. 

Tyson. — Fruit  medium  size ;  pyramidal  form ;  color  dull 
greenish-yellow.  Flesh  white,  sweet,  melting,  and  very  juicy, 
with  a  most  delightful  flavor.  Ripe  from  the  1 5th  to  the  25th 
of  August.  A  figure  of  this  variety  is  given  in  Hovey's  Maga- 
zine for  November,  1846,  but  much  too  small  for  the  general 
size  of  the  fruit.  The  original  tree,  now  over  fifty  years  of 
age,  stands  in  Jenkintown,  Pa.,  and  measures  six  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, at  three  feet  from  the  ground,  and  is  a  noble  spe- 
cimen of  strong,  upright  growth.  The  fruit  has  been  sold  in 
Philadelphia  Market  for  nearly  twenty  years,  but  till  recently 
very  little  notice  has  been  taken  of  it.  We  would  like  to  taste 
a  finer,  early  pear  than  this. 

Moyameming. — Fruit  full,  medium  size,  of  a  roundish-oval 
form  ;  lemon  color,  with  occasional  blotches  and  lines  of  russet 
Flesh  buttery,  melting,  and  well  flavored.  In  eating  f^om  the 
middle  of  July  till  the  end  of  August  Originated  in  the  gar- 
den of  J.  B.  Smith,  Esq.,  of  this  place. 

Washington. — Another  American  Pear,  of  first-rate  quality. 
Fruit  medium  size  ;  oval  form  ;  of  a  pale  straw  color,  covered 
with  brown  dots.  Flesh  firm,  white,  melting  and  juicy.  Ripe 
end  of  August  and  1st  of  September.  Downing's  figure  of 
this  fruit  and  description  is  perfectly  accurate,  though  there  is 
plenty  of  evidence  to  show  that  this  tree  must  have  been  known 
forty  years  ago.  I  have  seen  grafted  trees  about  fifty  feet 
high,  and  a  stem  four  feet  in  circumference. 

Bartlett. — Fruit  very  large,  regular  pyramidal  form ;  co- 
lor pale  lemon-yellow,  with  a  faint  blush  next  the  sun.     Flesh 


PEAR.  201 

white,  very  juicy,  buttery,  and  high  flavored.    Ripe  first  of  Sep- 
tember. 


Autumn  Pears. — Seckel. — Fruit  under  medium  size  ;  color 
of  a  brownish-yellow,  with  a  russety  blush  next  the  sun.  Flesh 
yellowish- white,  juicy,  rich,  and  peculiarly  high  flavored.  In 
rich,  loamy  soil  the  fruit  is  medium-sized.  The  parent  tree  still 
lives  about  three  miles  from  Philadelphia.  Ripe  about  first 
of  September. 

Butter  or  Wliite  Doyenne^  with  about  twenty-five  other 
names.  Fruit  over  medium  size  ;  very  regularly  formed, 
round-oval ;  color  greenish-yellow,  with  a  blush  cheek.  Flesh 
white,  fine,  buttery  flavor,  juicy  and  rich.  Ripe  10th  to  the 
25th  of  September,  varies  very  much  in  difi'erent  soils. 

Beurrc  cle  Capiumont. — Fruit  under  medium  size,  regularly 
formed  ;  color  pale  yellow,  with  a  dull  red  cheek.  Flesh 
buttery,  sweet,  melting,  and  high  flavored.  Ripe  in  Septem- 
ber or  early  in  October. 

Bmrre  Bosc  —  Fruit  large,  regularly  pyramidal ;  color 
brownish-yellow,  with  a  reddish-brown  cheek.  Flesh  white, 
melting,  rich,  and  highly  perfumed  flavor.  Ripe  from  Sep- 
tember to  the  end  of  October.     A  noble  fruit. 

Fondantc  cVAutomnc. — Fruit  medium  size,  half  oval ;  color 
yellowish-green,  slightly  russeted.  Flesh  very  juicy,  rich  and 
delicious.  Ripe  in  September.  We  have  not  seen  this  fruit, 
but  give  it  a  place  from  the  high  character  given  to  it  by  M. 
P.  Wilder,  Esq.,  President  of  the  Massachusetts  Horticultural 
Society,  who  is  one  of  the  best  judges. 

Beurre  Diet. — Fruit  large,  of  an  oval  form  ;  color  pale  yel- 
low, when  fully  ripe,  dotted  with  brown.  Flesh  yellowish- 
white,  rich,  sugary,  and  high  flavored.  Ripe  from  September 
to  the  end  of  November. 

3Tarle  Louise. — Fruit  fully  medium  size;  color  greenish- 
yellow,  with  russety  cheek.      Flesh  wliitCj  very  buttery,  rich. 


202  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

and  high  flavored.  Ripe  from  September  to  October.  We 
kave  had  large  crops  of  this  fruit  on  trees  only  eight  feet  high, 

Duchesse  d^Angoukmc. — Fruit  very  larg£  :  long  oval,  with  an 
nneven  surface  ;  cdor  dull  greenish-yellow.  Flesh  white,  but- 
tery, very  rich,  and  high  flavored.  Kipe  in  October  and  No- 
vember, and  is  frequently  over  one  pound  weight. 

Dix. — An  American  fruit,  of  large  pyramidal  form  ;  color 
dull  yellow,  dotted  with  russet.  Flesh  rich,  juicy,  sugary,  and 
melting.     Ripe  in  October. 

Urbaniste. — Fruit  medium  size ;  pyramidal  form  ;  color  gray- 
ish-yellow. Flesh  yellowish-white,  rich,  melting,  very  juicy^ 
and  high  flavored.     Ripe  in  October  and  November. 

Winter  Pears.  Columbia.  —  An  American  fruit,  very 
large,  oval  form ;  color  pale  greenish-yellow.  Flesh  white^ 
melting,  juicy  and  sweet,  aromatic  flavor.  Ripe  November 
to  December. 

Beurre  cPAremberg. — Fruit  above  medium  size  ;  oval  forni, 
with  an  uneven  surface.  Flesh  white,  rich,  melting,  and  lus- 
cious flavor.     Ripe  in  November  and  December. 

Chaumontel. — Fruit  large  ;  oval  form,  with  an  irregular 
surface ;  color  yellowish-green,  with  a  brownish-red  cheek. 
Flesh  melting,  buttery,  sweet,  and  luscious  flavor.  Ripe  No^ 
vember  to  January. 

Glaut  Morceau. — Fruit  large ;  regular,  of  a  long,  oval  form  ; 
color  pale  greenish-yellow.  Flesh  white,  smooth,  rich,  and 
sugary.     Ripe  December  to  January. 

Lawrence. — This  peculiar  variety  originated  on  Long  Island. 
Fruit  above  medium  size,  rather  oval ;  color  pale  yellowish- 
green,  spotted  with  brown.  Flesh  yellowish-white,  melting- 
juicy,  very  rieh,  and  sugary  flavor.  {Downing  on  Fruits.], 
We  have  not  seen  this  fruit,  but  have  been  informed  by  the 
Messrs.  Parsons,  of  Flushing,  that  some  of  the  fruit  begins  to 
ripen  in  November,  while  others  continue  ripening  till  March, 

Passe   Colmar,  with  about  twenty  other  names.  Fruit  large^ 


PEAR.  20i 


of  regular  pear  shape  ;  color  yellowish-green,  with  a  brownish- 
russet.  Flesh  creamy-white,  with  a  buttery,  rich,  juicy,  aroma- 
tic flavor.     E,ipe  in  December. 

Winter  Nelis. — Fruit  medium  size,  roundish  form ;  color 
greenish-yellow,  with  a  russety  cheek.  Flesh  yellowish-white; 
smooth,  buttery,  abounding  in  a  rich,  aromatic  juice.  Ripe  in 
December  and  January. 

Bmrrc  Easter.- — Fruit  large,  oval  form  ;  color  yellowish - 
brownish-green,  with  a  russety  cheek.  Flesh  white,  smooth, 
buttery,  juicy,  and  very  sweet.  Ripe  in  January,  February^ 
and  March. 

Beurre  de  Ranz. — Fruit  above  medium  size,  of  a  long,  pyra- 
midal shape.  Color  rough,  dark  green,  (rather  untempting.) 
Flesh  greenish-white,  melting,  rich,  and  juicy.  Ripe  in  March, 
April,  and  May. 

Propagation  and  Culture. — The  Pear,  like  the  Apple,  is 
propagated  by  seeds,  budding,  or  grafting.  By  the  former 
process,  many  new  sorts  have  made  their  appearance  in  this 
country  and  Europe,  of  very  superior  quality,  within  the  past 
twenty  years.  Those  of  the  United  States  are  not  surpassed 
in  their  season  by  any  others,  and  should  always  have  the  pre- 
ference when  plantations  are  made  ;  their  constitution  and  pro- 
ductiveness being  acclimated,  there  is  not  likely  any  disap- 
pointment to  arise  from  barrenness  or  other  defects.  There 
has,  within  these  few  years  past,  arisen  up  among  us,  some 
genuine  pomological  spirits,  that  will  bring  into  notice  many 
native  sorts  of  this  fruit  that  are  at  present  either  obscure,  or 
entirely  unknown.  It  can  be  grafted  or  budded  with  great 
success  on  its  own  stock,  and  also  on  the  Quince,  and  with 
partial  success  on  the  Apple.  Grafting  early  in  Spring,  and 
budding  in  July  and  August.  Every  Pear  tree  of  an  infe- 
rior description  should  be  headed  down,  or  cut  back  in  the 
branches,  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  stem,  and  grafted  with  finer 
and  more  productive  sorts.     The  new  kinds  will  produce  fruit 


204  BUISrS    FAMILY    KITCHEN    GARDENER. 

at  once.  The  result  would  be,  instead  of  Pears  being  worth 
twenty-five  cents  per  bushel,  they  would  at  least  be  worth 
twelve  times  that  amount. 

Planting  the  Pear,  is  precisely  as  desci*ibed  for  the  Apple  ; 
though  they  will  admit  of  being  as  close  as  twenty-five  or 
thirty  feet.  The  finest  trees  we  know,  grow  on  a  light, 
loamy  soil,  three  feet  deep,  with  a  sandy,  gravelly  bottom. 
The  worst  soil  we  have  observed  them  on.  is  composed  of 
a  sandy,  thin,  light  nature,  with  a  cold  or  wet  bottom. 

Pruning. — This  tree,  in  the  first  few  years  of  its  growth, 
after  being  transplanted,  requires  the  aid  of  the  knife  in  direct- 
ing the  formation  of  its  head  ;  but  when  once  formed,  it  re- 
quires no  further  care,  unless  to  keep  the  interior  of  the  head 
thinned  out,  to  allow  a  free  circulation  of  air.  Avoid  making 
large  amputations  when  pruning.  The  saw  and  the  axe  are 
dangerous  implements  in  the  hands  of  unskilful  orchardists. 

Blight  is  the  only  disease  in  this  country  that  attacks  the 
Pear.  Its  remedies  are  not  yet  fully  tested,  and  at  present 
are  very  conflicting  and  unsatisfactory.  The  fact,  that  in  some 
situations  they  are  more  subject  to  it  than  in  others,  shows 
conclusively,  I  think,  that  it  is  a  local  and  not  an  atmospheric 
disease. 

The  Insect  Blight  appears  in  July  and  August,  and  fre- 
quently has  done  much  mischief  before  being  detected — whole 
limbs  dying,  as  it  were,  instantly.  Remedy,  examine  your 
trees  frequently  in  those  months,  and  as  soon  as  you  de- 
tect any  of  the  limbs  with  the  leaves  having  a  drooping 
appearance,  and  in  habit  altogether  difi*erent  from  the  other 
portions  of  the  tree,  cut  it  ofi^  close  to  the  main  limb,  and 
have  it  destroyed.  The  insect  has  girdled  the  pith,  and 
prevented  the  circulation  of  the  sap. 

G-ATHERiNG  THE  Fruit.  Rather  more  attention  ought  to 
be  given  to  the  collecting  and  keeping  the  fruit  of  the  Pear  tree 


PLUM.  205 


than  it  generally  receives.  All  Summer  fruit  should  be  pulled 
a  few  days  i)efore  maturity,  and  put  carefully  away,  either  in 
a  fruit  room  or  closet,  till  it  ripens.  Autumn  fruits  should  be 
gathered  eight  days  before  being  ripe,  and  put  away  in  cotton, 
paper,  or  other  dry  material,  in  the  dark.  They  will  thereby 
greatly  improve  in  color  and  flavor,  and  will  be  in  use  longer. 
Winter  fruit  should  hang  on  the  tree  till  frost,  then  be  care- 
fully pulled,  and  put  away  for  two  weeks  ;  when  they  should 
be  wiped  with  a  cloth,  rolled  up  in  cotton  or  paper,  packed  in 
boxes,  or  barrels  of  dry  sand,  and  stored  in  a  dry  cellar  or 
room,  where  they  will  not  be  severely  frozen.  Their  flavor 
and  color  is  greatly  improved  by  this  method.  In  the  Winter 
season,  fruit  should  be  brought  into  a  warm  apartment  a  few 
days  before  using,  keeping  it  invariably  in  the  dark. 


PLUM. 

Prunus  domestica. — Prwm^  Fr. — Pjimimenhaum^  G-er. 

There  are  some  species  of  the  Plum  found  in  Asia,  Europe, 
and  America.  It  is  an  ancient  fruit,  held  in  high  estima- 
tion by  the  Romans,  who  amused  themselves  (as  history  says) 
by  grafting  the  Plum  on  the  Apple.  We  are  not  surprised 
at  these  and  other  notions,  for  it  is  current  in  the  present  age 
that  black  Koses  can  be  obtained  by  budding  on  Black  Cur- 
rant bushes.  When  they  grow,  no  doubt  they  will  be  black. 
It  is  not  acknowledged  to  be  a  first  class,  healthy  fruit,  though 
it  is  admitted  "  they  will  not  injure  strong  constitutions." 
When  perfectly  ripe,  a  few  can  be  eaten  to  advantage,  as  they 
tend  to  keep  the  system  open.  The  bark  of  the  Wild  Plum 
is  used  as  a  substitute  for  Peruvian  Bark,  in  cases  of  inter- 
mitting fever.  The  fruit  is  considered  indispensable  as  a  con- 
serve. Nothing  of  the  kind  can  equal  Grreen  Grage  jelly,  and 
preserved  Washington  Plums.  The  following  are  indispensa- 
ble  for  a  good  collection  : 


206  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

Bleecker^s  Gage. — Raised  in  the  State  of  New  York.  Fruit 
oval,  of  medium  size ;  color  yellow,  with  white  specks.  Flesh 
yellow,  rich,  sweet  and  luscious.  Ripe,  end  of  August.  Free. — 
Downing. 

Coeh  Golden  Drop.  —  An  English  variety.  Fruit  very 
large ;  long-oval ;  color  rich,  golden-yellow,  with  numerous 
brown  dots.  Flesh  yellow,  very  rich  and  luscious.  Ripe 
about  the  10th  of  September,  and  will  keep  till  October.  A 
cling ;  will  not  do  for  preserving. 

Columbia.  —  A  New  York  seedling.  Fruit  very  large; 
round,  fine  form  ;  color  brownish-purple,  with  numerous  specks. 
Flesh  orange,  if  perfectly  ripe,  rich  and  sugary.  Free.  Ripe 
about  the  end  of  August. — Downing. 

Imperial  Gage.,  or  Flushing  Gage. — Raised  at  Prince's 
nursery,  Flushing.  Fruit  oval ;  medium  size ;  color  green, 
tinged  with  yellow  next  the  sun.  Flesh  yellowish-green,  rich, 
juicy,  and  delicious.     Free.     Ripe  about  the  24th  of  July. 

Green  Gage^  or  Reiiie  Claude. — The  Plum  of  Plums.  Fruit 
rather  under  size ;  color  greenish-yellow.  Flesh  green,  very 
rich,  juicy,  melting,  and  very  luscious.  A  great  bearer.  Free 
stone.     Ripe  about  the  10th  of  August. 

Huling^s  Superb. — A  native  of  this  country.  Fruit  very 
large ;  round-oval ;  color  greenish-yellow.  Flesh  same  color, 
firm,  rich,  and  well  flavored.  A  great  bearer.  Free  stone. 
An  excellent  table  or   kitchen  fruit.     Ripe  4th  of  August. 

Morocco. — Fruit  round  ;  medium  size ;  color  dark  violet- 
purple.  Flesh  yellow,  juicy,  sharp,  and  well  flavored.  Ripe 
about  the  24th  of  July. 

Nectarine.,  or  Caledonian. — Fruit  very  large;  oval;  color 
purple,  with  a  fine  bloom.  Flesh  yellow,  rich,  and  sharp  fla- 
vor.    Ripe  about  the  8th  of  August. 

Orleans  Early. — Fruit  round  ;  medium  size.  Flesh  green- 
ish-yellow ;  color  marbled-red,  with  a  purple  cheek ;  sharp, 
rich  flavor.  A  free  stone.  A  great  bearer.  Ripe  about  tb<e 
first  of  August. 


PLUM.  207 

Jefferson. — An  Albany  seedling,  and,  according  to  report  (we 
have  not  seen  it),  one  of  the  finest  sorts.  Fruit  large,  fine, 
oval  form  ;  color  golden-yellow,  with  a  red  cheek.  Flesh  deep 
orange,  very  rich,  juicy,  and  high  flavored  ;  parts  freely  from 
the  stone.     Kipe  about  the  25th  of  August. 

Purple  Gage. — Fruit  round,  medium  size ;  color  reddish- 
crimson,  dotted.  Flesh  pale  orange,  rich,  juicy,  and  high  fla- 
vored.    A  free  stone.     Ripe  about  the  15th  of  September. 

Quetsche,  or  German  Prune. — Fruit  very  large,  regularly 
oval  ;  color  dark  blue-violet  when  fully  ripe.  The  skin  sepa- 
rates very  readily  from  the  flesh,  and  makes  a  first  rate  dessert 
or  kitchen  fruit.     Ripe  about  the  10th  of  September. 

Im-perairice. — Fruit  oval,  above  medium  size ;  color  deep 
purple,  covered  with  bloom.  Flesh  firm,  rich,  and  sugary,  ad- 
hering to  the  stone.     Ripe  about  the  first  of  October. 

Washington  {Bolmar\s). — A  New  York  seedling.  Fruit 
very  large ;  round-oval ;  color  dull  greenish-yellow.  Flesh 
yellow,  firm,  sweet,  and  luscious,  separating  readily  from  the 
stone.     Ripe  about  the  15th  of  August. 

Wine  Sour. — Fruit  medium  size,  roundish-oval ;  color  pur- 
ple. Flesh  bright  red,  exceedingly  juicy.  A  great  bearer, 
and  the  best  Plum  for  cooking.     Ripe  in  September. 

It  must  be  conceded  that  the  character  of  the  Plum  is,  in 
some  measure,  choice,  good,  or  indifl'erent,  according  to  situa- 
tion, climate,  and  soil ;  yet  we  contend  that  bad  soil  and  situ- 
ation will  not  entirely  obliterate  the  good  qualities  of  a  choice 
fruit. 

Culture. — The  best  soil  for  the  Plum  is  a  strong,  loamy 
soil,  on  a  dry  bottom.  In  such  they  grow  well  and  produce 
fine  crops. 

Plant  them  at  twenty-five  feet  apart,  if  in  the  orchard ;  but 
if  for  family  use,  they  should  be  planted  on  some  paved  yard, 
or  other  situation,  where  the  fallen  fruit  will  be  carefully  de- 
stroyed. 


208  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


If  the  general  nature  of  the  soil  is  sandy,  it  will  be  benefited 
by  a  compost  of  very  old  manure  and  meadow  earth,  in  equal 
proportions,  being  incorporated  with  it,  where  the  trees  are  to 
be  planted. 

Propagation  is  done  with  the  greatest  facility  by  planting 
the  stones  in  the  month  of  October,  about  an  inch  deep.  These 
vegetate  the  following  season,  and  can  be  transplanted  into  a 
convenient  part  of  the  garden  in  rows,  to  be  budded  the  second 
year,  in  the  month  of  July,  in  a  period  of  cloudy,  moist  weather. 
They  can  also  be  grafted  very  early  in  Spring,  by  either  whip 
or  wedge  grafting,  as  recommended  for  the  Apple  ;  but  it  must 
be  observed,  that  stone-fruit  does  not  take  so  readily  by  graft- 
ing as  budding.  Useless  varieties  of  the  Plum  should  be  cut 
back,  as  advised  for  the  Pear ;  they  will  then  make  vigorous 
shoots,  a  portion  of  which  can  be  saved  and  budded  with  choice 
varieties.'  Where  there  is  not  much  room,  and  a  variety  of 
fruit  wanted,  we  strongly  advise  several  sorts  of  fruit  to  be 
worked  on  one  tree ;  by  adopting  this  practice  with  all  kinds  of 
fruit  trees,  a  great  variety  can  be  obtained  in  a  very  small 
space.  In  favorable  soils  their  growth  is  rapid.  There  is, 
within  fifty  feet  of  where  I  write,  a  tree  thirteen  years  from 
the  stone,  that  is  budded  with  four  sorts,  produces  a  large 
crop  every  season,  is  now  thirty  feet  high,  and  two  feet  from 
the  ground  the  stem  measures  three  feet  in  circumference. 

Pruning  is  performed  as  directed  for  Pears ;  but  large  am- 
putations should  only  be  made  in  July,  August,  or  Sep- 
tember.    At  that  period  the  wounds  will  readily  heal  over. 

Insects. — The  great  and  only  foe  of  this  tree  is  the  Curcu- 
lio,  or  Plum-Weevil.  A  preventive  to  its  ravages  has  not 
been  discovered.  We  observe  trees  planted  in  pavements,  or 
near  to  dwellings,  are  not  so  subject  to  its  attack  as  those  in 
cultivated  ground  or  gardens.  Some  kinds  are  also  more  sub- 
ject to  it  than  others.     With  us,  the  following  are  entirely  de- 


QUINCE.  209 


stroyed  by  it :  Goes'  Golden  Drop,  Magnum  }5onum,  Kirk's 
Late  lied,  and  ]5iiighani ;  ^Yl^lo  the  (jlreen  Gage,  Morocco 
Wine  Sour,  Orleans,  and  Washington,  arc  not  or  but  slightly, 
injured.  As  a  cure,  fifteen  or  twenty  pounds  of  salt,  or  salt 
brine,  is  strongly  reeonnnendod  by  some.  It  is  laid  under 
tlie  tree  early  in  Autumn.  This  is  to  destroy  the  insects,  which 
lie  under  the  surface  of  tlie  ground  all  Winter.  AVe  doubt 
not  but  repeated  doses  of  tliis  will  destroy  them. 

aUINCE. 

Pyrus  Cj/ddnia. —  Co'ignasaivr^  Fr. — Quitlenha.uvi^  Ger. 

The  Quince  is  supposed  to  be  the  Gohlen  Apples  of  tho 
ancients.  It  is  a  native  of  Austria,  and  is  believed  to  havo 
been  cultivated  in  l^ritain  three  hundred  years.  Pliny 
writes,  in  his  time,  of  tli^ir  growing  wihl  in  liedge-rows,  so 
large  as  to  weigh  down  the  boughs  to  the  ground.  Moderns 
use  it  only  after  being  stewed,  baked,  or  preserved."  Quince 
marmalade  is  a  favorite  conserve,  and  Quince  wine  has  been 
known  to  cure  obstinate  asthmatic  complaints.  Tlicre  are 
only  two  varieties  and  a  species  that  arc  worth  notice. 

Apple,  or  Orange  Quince. — Tlie  fruit  large,  of  a  round-oval 
shape ;  skin  very  smooth  ;  color,  when  ripe,  a  bright  golden- 
yellow.  A  clean  growing  tree  and  a  great  bearer,  llipe  in 
September  and  October. 

Portugal  Quince. — Fruii  round,  large  size;  color  bright 
yellow.  A  strong-growing  tree  and  bears  a  fair  crop.  This 
variety  is  used  as  stocks  on  which  to  bud  or  graft  Pears ;  they 
fruit  earlier  upon  it.  and  are  much  dwarfed  by  the  process.  It 
is  a  very  general  practice  with  the  French,  and  for  small  gar- 
dens may  be  done  to  advantage  in  this  country,  but  will  not 
do  for  orchards. 

Pyrus  Sinensis,  or  Chinese  Quince. — Shrub  of  upright 
growth,  with  pink  flowers.  Fruil  very  large,  long-oval,  smooth 
and    regularly  formed ;    color  greenish-yellow.       Flesh    firm, 


210  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 


rather  dry.  Ripe  about  the  end  of  October.  A  beautiful 
preserve,  of  a  bright  pink  color,  can  be  made  from  the  fruit. 
A  specimen  before  me  is  really  beautiful. 

Propagation. — This  is  readily  accomplished  by  layers  or 
cuttings,  as  they  root  in  either  way  very  freely.  Lay  down 
the  shoots  early  in  Spring,  or  during  the  mild  Winter  months, 
and  they  will  be  rooted  by  the  following  November,  when  they 
can  be  planted  out  into  rows  till  they  are  strong  enough  to  be 
removed  to  the  orchard.  Cuttings  taken  off  the  old  plants  of 
the  past  year's  wood,  or  even  wood  of  two  years  old,  cut  intc 
lengths  of  about  eight  inches  and  planted  into  moist  ground 
will  root  the  first  year  and  soon  attain  to  be  good  plants. 

Soil. — A  heavy,  loamy  soil,  is  said  to  be  the  best  for  the 
Quince.  This  is  not  borne  out  by  results.  The  finest  fruit 
I  ha,ve  ever  seen  is  grown  on  deep,  sandy  loam,  manured  every 
season.  If  they  are  not  well  cultivated,  they  get  knotty  and 
deformed,  producing  fruit  of  like  character. 

Pruning. — Yery  little  assistance  is  required  from  the  knife 
unless  to  give  a  direction  to  the  formation  of  the  tree,  and  for 
sbortening  any  shoots  that  extend  beyond  the  regular  bounds 


RASPBERRY. 

Rubus  ideus. — Framboisier,  Fr. — Himbeerestrciuck,  Grer, 

Some  species  of  this  plant  are  natives  of  all  temperate 
countries,  and  have  been  much  improved  by  cultivation.  Its 
fruit  is  extensively  used  for  making  syrups,  wines,  jams,  and 
jellies ;  it  also  forms  an  excellent  dessert  fruit,  considered 
healthful,  refreshing,  and  cooling.  Of  late,  much  has  been 
said  and  written  on  the  Raspberry ;  but  as  yet,  we  may  say, 
there  are  but  two  or  three  sorts  worth  general  culture. 


RASPBERRY.  21 1 


Red  Anttoerp. — Canes  dark  brown,  long,  short-jointed.  Fruit 
fairly  thimble-shaped.  Flesh  firm,  rich,  juicy,  with  a  fine, 
sweet  flavor.  Ripe  about  the  fourth  of  July.  There  is  a  va- 
riety called  Red  Antwerp  generally  cultivated,  with  small  fruit, 
readily  broken  into  pieces,  and  wood  of  a  reddish-brown  color. 

Franconia  is  a  hardier  variety  than  the  former,  and  does 
better  in  colder  latitudes.  Fruit  large,  conical,  of  a  bright  red 
color.  Flesh  firm ;  flavor  sharp ;  rich  and  abundant.  Ripe 
about  the  middle  of  July. 

White,  or  Yellow  Antwerp. — Fruit  nearly  as  large  as  the 
Red  Antwerp  ;  of  the  same  shape.  Flesh  yellow,  very  tender, 
rich,  and  very  sweet.     Wood  yellow ;  a  great  bearer. 

Fastolff. — Within  the  past  few  years  this  variety  though) 
an  old  one  with  a  new  name)  has  created  quite  an  excitement 
in  England,  and  not  a  little  in  this  country.  We  fruited  it 
two  years  ago,  and  consider  it  one  of  the  best  reds,  though  we 
do  not  think  it  the  very  best.  Fruit  very  large  ;  of  an  oval, 
conical  form.  Flesh  very  rich,  juice  abundant,  and  makes  a 
beautiful  dessert  fruit.  It  will  never  be  a  popular  market 
fruit,  being  so  soft  that  it  will  not  bear  carriage,  but  will  hold 
its  place  for  home  consumption.     Ripe  4th  of  July. 

Ohio  Ever-bearing. — Fruit  conical ;  color  black ;  large  size, 
produced  in  clusters  on  the  points  of  the  shoots.  Flesh  dark- 
red,  juice  not  very  abundant,  produces  through  the  whole  sea- 
son till  frost,  and  quite  indispensaable  on  this  account.  Wood 
strong,  of  a  dark  purple  color. 

There  are  several  very  astonishing  and  superior  Raspberries 
raised  from  seed  by  an  amateur  gentleman  of  this  city,  some 
of  them  of  a  beautiful  orange,  and  others  of  a  bright  amber 
color.,  whose  true  characters  will  be  known  in  another  year. 

Propagation. — This  is  of  the  easiest  character.  Give  the 
plants  rich,  deep,  sandy  loamy  soil,  and  they  will  send  up  an 
abundance  of  suckers  every  season,  each  of  which  will  form 
a  plant  and  produce  fruit  the  year  following. 


212  bcist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

Planting. — They  should  be  put  out  in  rows  three  feet  apart 
and  four  feet  from  row  to  row.  Two  hundred  plants  is  not 
too  many  for  a  family.  Grive  them  plenty  of  manure  every 
year.  Dig  deep,  but  not  close  to  the  bottom  of  the  plant.  A 
situation  partially  shaded,  or  naturally  moist,  though  not  wet. 
is  the  best  locality.  A  plantation  will  last  twenty  years  if 
properly  attended  to  by  enriching  every  year. 

Pruning. — The  first  fruit  I  ever  pruned  was  the  Raspberry, 
and  it  is  the  only  one  that  can  be  reduced  to  a  simple  rule.  In 
the  Autumn  cut  out  all  the  old  wood  that  produced  fruit  the 
past  summer,  close  to  the  ground  ;  tie  up  the  new  shoots  to  a 
stake  or  trellis,  about  five  feet  high ;  then  cut  off  about  a  foot 
of  the  tops  of  the  shoots,  and  the  work  is  done.  In  cold  situa- 
tions the  plants,  after  having  been  deprived  of  their  old  wood, 
have  to  be  laid  down  all  Winter,  and  covered  with  earth.  Spruce, 
or  Pine  branches,  till  Spring,  when  they  are  lifted  and  tied  up 
as  above.  The  Ohio  and  Franconia  varieties  do  not  require 
this  protection. 


STRAWBERRY. 

Fragaria^  var. — Fraisier^  Fr. — Erdbeerpflanzr,  Ger. 

The  Strawberry,  so  called  from  the  ancient  practice. — and 
still  continued — of  laying  straw  between  the  rows  to  keep  the 
fruit  clean.  It  is  not  properly  a  berry,  but  considered  '-a 
fleshy  receptacle,  studded  with  seeds."  It  is  a  wholesome  and 
most  luscious  fruit,  and  wisely  distributed  by  a  bountiful  hand 
over  nearly  every  part  of  the  world.  Its  cultivation  has  been 
little  regarded  till  within  the  past  thirty  years ;  and  even  at 
the  present  period  is  very  imperfectly  understood.  Its  health- 
ful influence  upon  nearly  all  constitutions,  when  taken  in  mod- 
erate quantities,  is  admitted  by  medical  men.  The  demand, 
for  it  in  a  commercial  point  of  view  is  rapidly  on  the  increase, 
which  has  created  a  desire  to  know  its  character  an;!  improve 


strav/ber:iy.  213 


its  culture.  Its  uses  are  generally  known.  A  certain  species 
of  beauty  is  compared  to  "  Strawberries  smothered  in  cream," 
a  portion  of  the  dessert  palatable  to  all,  though  the  beneficial 
efifects  of  the  fruit  is  most  certain  when  fresh  from  the  vine, 
unmixed  and  unadulterated.  The  immense  number  of  varie- 
ties now  cultivated  renders  it  rather  difficult  to  select  from 
them  a  few  sorts  that  will  continue  the  season  to  the  longest 
possible  period.  In  attempting  to  do  so,  however,  we  give  pre- 
ference to  varieties  obtained  from  seed  in  this  country,  which 
resist  the  vicissitudes  of  our  climate,  and  give  more  general 
satisfaction  than  any  imported  variety.  Our  selection  com- 
prises two  seedlings  of  Pennsylvania  origin,  one  of  New  York, 
and  one  of  Massachusetts. 

Earbj  May — is  a  pistillate  (female  ?)  variety.  Fruit  above 
medium  size  ;  color  bright  red  ;  shape  conical ;  flavor  very 
rich,  with  a  delightful  aroma.  Ripened  last  year  on  the  14th 
of  May  (season  two  weeks  later  than  usual).  This  variety  re- 
quires to  have  a  row  of  the  Hudson  strawberry  planted  with  it 
to  produce  the  very  great  crops  of  which  it  is  capable.  It  will 
be  a  general  market  fruit. 

Hovey''s  Seedling. — This  pistillate  [fcmcile?)  variety  is  now 
universally  cultivated  in  every  part  of  the  United  States,  and 
greatly  admired.  Fruit  very  large,  heart-shaped  ;  color  dark 
red,  when  fully  ripe  ;  flavor  good,  with  a  fine  aroma.  Ripened 
last  year  about  the  22d  of  May.  This  variety  requires  a  few 
of  the  Hudson,  or  some  other  staminate  sort  to  be  planted  near 
it,  when  it  produces  extraordinary  crops.  Is  a  general  mar- 
ket fruit. 

Prize  Seedling. — One  of  the  finest  flavored  strawberries  in 
cultivation.  A  staminate  variety,  and  produces  a  crop  of  fruit, 
when  planted  alone,  of  very  large  size,  of  a  rounded,  heart- 
shaped  form.  Color  dark  crimson,  when  fully  ripe,  with  a  pol- 
ished surface  ;  seeds  prominent.  Ripened  last  year  on  the 
20th  of  May,  and  continues  fully  three  weeks  in  bearing  ;  an 
unusual  length  of  time  with  us. 


214  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

Roes'  Phmiiix. — A  staminate  plant^  producing  a  crop  when 
planted  by  itself.  Fruit  very  large,  and  frequently  of  a  cox- 
comb-shape ;  of  a  dark  red  color,  with  a  smooth,  polished  sur- 
face. Flesh  firm,  and  of  a  very  rich  flavor,  with  a  delightful 
aroma.     Ripened  last  year  about  the  26th  of  May. 

Monthly  Copii. — This  variety  of  the  Alpine  Strawberry  is 
an  improvement  on  the  old  sort.  The  fruit  is  larger,  of  a  finer 
flavor,  and  produces  copiously  the  whole  year,  and  is  verita- 
bly^ monthly  Strawberry. 

There  are  several  varieties  recently  produced  from  seeds  in 
this  vicinity,  and  other  parts  of  the  country,  which  will  entire- 
ly supplant  every  foreign  sort ;  and  we  doubt  not  may  even 
displace  some  of  those  we  have  named,  though  they  are  not  yet 
fully  proven. 

Propagation  of  Strawberries  from  Seed. — Every  per- 
son who  has  any  partiality  for  this  fruit,  that  can  devote 
a  few  hours  to  their  culture  in  their  season,  should  sow  the 
seeds  of  the  very  best  kinds  any  time  from  August  to 
April,  in  pots  of  light  earth ;  water  them  regularly,  and 
they  will  be  above  ground  in  four  or  five  weeks.  After 
they  have  attained  a  few  leaves  to  each,  plant  them  into 
a  piece  of  rich  ground  in  the  garden,  about  twenty  inches 
apart.  The  second  season  they  will  produce  fruit  to  prove 
their  merits.  The  seed  is  obtained  by  drying  the  ripe  fruit 
and  washing  the  flesh  from  the  seeds,  which  are  all  on  the  out- 
side of  the  berry;  these  seeds,  when  perfectly  dry,  will  keep 
three  years.  Flowers  that  have  an  entirely  green  centre  are 
called  female,  or  pistilate — those  that  have  a  great  many  yellow 
stamens  are  called  male,  or  barren  plants — those  that  have  only 
a  portion  of  stamens  around  the  base  of  the  green,  conical  cen- 
tre of  the  flower,  are  called  staminate  or  perfect  blossoms. 

Soil. — All  admit  that  the  best  soil  for  thi&  fruit  is  a  deep, 
light,  rich  loam,  if  not  naturally  deep  to  be  made  so  by  trench- 
ing.    Rich  it  must  be,  if  large  and  good  fruit  is  required : 


STRAWBERRY-  215 


therefore,  prepare  the  ground  the  season  before,  planting  and 
incorporating  it  with  an  abundance  of  manure,  to  the  depth  of 
eighteen  inches.  The  exposure  must  be  entirely  free  from 
the  shade  of  trees  or  buildings.  For  early  crops,  plant  on  an 
aspect  that  has  an  inclination  to  the  south  or  south-east.  For 
late  crops  choose  the  north  or  west.  By  this  method  the 
Strawberry  season  is  greatly  prolonged. 

Planting. — The  periods  for  performing  this  is  in  March 
and  April,  or  August  and  September :  in  either  of  these 
months  we  have  been  equally  successful.  Beds  four  feet  wide. 
each  containing  three  rows,  and  the  plants  fifteen  inches  apart 
in  the  row,  leaving  alleys  two  and  a  half  feet  wide  between  the 
beds,  for  the  operations  of  gathering,  weeding,  hoeing,  &c. 
Never  take  any  other  crop  from  among  them,  except  a  few 
Badishes  or  Lettuce,  the  first  season.  Destroy  the  runners 
after  the  middle  of  July,  unless  they  are  wanted  for  plants  ; 
hoe  them  freely,  and  keep  the  ground  in  an  open  condition. 
Some  light,  rough  litter  should  be  sprinkled  over  the  plants 
during  Winter,  in  cold  localities.  In  light  soils  dig  in  be- 
tween the  rows  every  Autumn,  a  few  inches  of  well-rotted 
dung ;  but  in  strong  and  deep  alluvial  soils  it  may  be  dis- 
pensed with.  In  dry  seasons  give  the  plants  a  few  waterings, 
after  they  have  done  blooming,  with  any  liquid  manure,  or  other 
rich  water,  which  will  greatly  promote  the  swelling  of  the  fruit. 
A  plantation  will  last  three  or  four  years :  and  to  have  this 
fruit  in  perfection  plant  out  a  portion  every  year.  For  this 
purpose  we  advise  to  plant  those  sorts  that  are  called  pis- 
tilate  or  female  plants,  allowing  every  sixth  row  to  be  of  a 
variety  that  is  called  staminate  or  male  plants.  This  latter 
sort  keep  within  bounds,  to  prevent  the  runners  intermingling 
with  the  bearing  kinds.  It  is  a  prudent  precaution  to  lay 
straw  or  other  clean  material  between  the  rows  of  the  fruiting 
plants,  before  they  come  into  bloom,  to  prevent  the  fruit  being 
injured  by  heavy  rains,  sand,  or  dust. 
10 


216  buist's  family  kitchen  gardener. 

GrATHERiNG  THE  Fruit. — The  common  practice  of  picking  the 
fruit  with  the  footstalks  attached,  is  one  of  the  very  worst  sys- 
tems, causing  them  to  be  handled  and  re-picked  before  they  go 
to  the  table.  Early  in  the  morning  take  a  vessel,  basket,  or 
box,  of  convenient  size,  and  pick  the  fruit  before  it  is  softened 
by  the  sun.  Lay  hold  of  the  calyx  or  cup  at  the  base  of  the 
fruit,  with  the  nail  of  the  first  finger  and  thumb  of  the  left 
hand,  and  with  the  first  finger  of  the  right,  give  the  fruit  a 
gentle  but  quick  draw,  and  it  will  come  off  into  the  hand  with- 
out the  least  bruise  or  damage  of  any  kind — and  thus  proceed 
till  your  vessel  is  full.  Strawberries  should  go  to  the  table 
without  being  turned  or  handled  in  any  way,  when  the  full, 
rich  aroma  of  the  fruit  will  be  preserved.  Those  that  are  car- 
ried to  market  to  be  retailed  for  family  use,  should  all  be  in 
portable  boxes,  in  the  same  way  as  Kaspberries.  The  present 
mode  is  disgusting  in  the  extreme  ;  large  tubfuls,  bruised  and 
crushed,  spooned  into  quart  measures  from  vessels  of  very 
questionable  character,  in  both  color  and  appearance.  The 
denizens  carrying  home  their  quantum  of  mashed  matter,  un- 
der the  name  of  Strawberry,  from  such  a  mixture,  can  know 
little  of  the  delicious  aroma  and  rich  flavor  of  the  pure  frail 
called  Strawberry. 


THE     END. 


ROBERT   BUIST, 
NUnSER?   AND   SEEDSIMCAIT. 

Warehouse,  No.  84  Chestnut-street,  below  Third,  south  side ; 

City  Greenhouses,  No.  140  South  Twelfth-street ; 

Nursery  and  Seed  Farm,  Passyunk  Road. 

OF    EVERY    DESCRIPTION  ; 

Grape  Vines,  Evergreens,  Roses,  and  other  Shrubs; 
Greenliouse  and  Garden  Plants; 

SEEDS  of  my  own  growth  or  imported,  wholesale  and 
Retail. 

Garden  and  Farm  Implements,  of  approved  make. 

[ron  Vases,  Settees  and  Chairs.  Every  article  warrant- 
ed to  be  what  it  is  represented.  Eighteen  years  estab- 
lished. 

Author  of   the  '•  American    Flower-Garden    Directory," 
"  Rose  Manual,"  Family  Kitchen  Gardener,"  &c. 
lE^^  All  cash  orders  promptly  attended  to. 


C.  M.  SAXTON,  PUBLISHER, 

121  FULTON  STREET,  NEW  YORK, 

Would  respectfully  call  attention  to  his  Assortment  of  Works  Appertaining  t« 
Agriculture,  Rural  and  Domestic  Economy,  a  few  of  which  are  enumerated, 
with  the  retail  prices,  from  which  a  liberal  discount  will  be  made  when  a  num- 
ber of  copies  are  ordered  at  one  time.    Any  book  can  be  sent  by  mail. 


The  American  Agriculturist,  per 
vol., 

Allen's,  R.  L.,  American  Farm 
Book, 

Allen's,  L. 
Book, 

Allen's,  R. 


F.,  American  Herd 


$1.25 
1.00 
3.00 
.75 
1.00 


150 


L.,  Diseases  of  Do- 
mestic Animals,    . 

Allen's,  J.  F.,  Treatise  on  the 
Grape  Vine,    .... 

Hoare  on  the  Vine,      .        .        .      .63 

Spooner  on  the  Cultivation  of 
the  Grape  Vine,  and  Making 
of  Wine, 38 

Downing's    Fruits     and    Fruit 

Trees  of  America,        .        .1.60 

Coles'  American  Fruit  Book,      .      .50 

Thomas'  Fruit  Culturist,     .        .      .63 
Do.           "         "with  Appen- 
dix,   1.00 

Ives'  New-England  Fruit  Book,      .60 

iJridgman's    Fruit    Cultivator's 

Manual, 60 

laques'  Practical  Treatise  on 
the  Management  of  Fruit 
Trees,     .         ,         .         •         .       .50 

Keniick's  American  Orchardist,      .90 

Lindley's  Guide  to  the  Orchard 
and  Fruit  Garden, 

C.  M.  Hovey's  Fruit  Trees  of 
America,  Colored  Plates, 
per  vol., .....     6.50 

Browne's  Trees  of  America,      .    4.50 

Loudon's     Arboretum    Britan- 

nicum, 65.00 

The    Complete    Gardener    and 

Florist, 25 

Bridgman's  Florist's  Guide,        .      .50 

Kly's  American  Florist,      .        .      .38 

Buist's  Flower  Garden  Direc- 
tory,         

Sayre's' American  Flower  Gar- 
den Companion,    . 

Mrs.  Loudon's  Companion  to  the 
Flower  Garden,    . 

Buist  on  the  Culture  of  the 
Rose, 

Prince's  Rose  Manual, 

Mrs  Gore's  Rose  Manual,  . 

Parsons  on  the   Culture  of  the 

Rose, 1.60 

Rose  Culturist, 38 

Lindley's  Theory  of  Horticul- 
ture,         ...28 

Theodore  Thinker's  First  Les 
SODS  in  Botany, 

Darlington's  Agricultural  Bot 
any, 

Gray's  Botanical  Text  Book, 

Chapin's  Vegetable  Kingdom, 
or  Hand  Book  of  Plants, 

Beattie's  Essays  on  Southern 
Agriculture, 

Woods'  Class  Book  of  Botany, 

Partridge's  Theory  and  Prac- 
tice of  Agricuitnre,      .        •      .12>^ 


1.26 

.75 

1.26 

.75 
.75 
1.50 


.25 


1.00 
1.60 


.     1.25 


1.00 
1.60 


Rodgers'  Scientific  Agriculture, 

Boussingault's  Rural  Economy, 

Boussingault's  Organic  Nature,. 

Falkner's  Treatise  on  the  Na- 
ture and  Value  of  Manures, 

Buel's  Farmer's  Companion, 

Buel's  Farmer's  Instructor,  2 
vols. 

Gaylord  and  Tucker's  Ameri- 
can Husbandry,     . 

Feseenden's   Complete    Farmer, 

Davis'  Text  Book  of  Agricul- 
ture,         

Wiggin's  American  Farmer's 
Instructor 

Pritt's  Farmer's  Book  and  Fa- 
mily Instructor,    . 

Johnson's  American  Farmer's 
Encyclopaedia, 

Donn's  Gardener's  Dictionary, 
4  vols,  quarto, 

Parnell's  Applied  Chemistry  in 
Arts,  Manufactures,  and  Do- 
mestic Economy,  . 

Fresenius  and  Bullock's  Ele- 
mentary Instruction  in 
Chemical  Analysis, 

Chaptal's  Chemistry  Applied  to 
Agriculture,  .... 

Liebig's  Agriculture  Chemistry, 

Liebig's  Animal  Chemistry, 

Liebig's  Familiar  Letters  on 
Chemistry,     .... 

Topham's  Chemistry  made  Easy 
for  the  Agriculturist,    . 

Johnson's  Catechism  of  Agri- 
cultural Chemistry  and 
Greology,        .        .        .        . 

Johnson's    Lectures    on    Agri- 


Skinner's  Elements  of  Agricul- 


♦  .75 
1.50 
.50 

.50 
76 


1.00 


1.00 

.75 


M 

1.60 

2.00 

4.00 

10.00 

1.00 


.50 
.25 


.25 
.38 

.36 


cultural  Chemistry, 

ofi 

ture. 


Gray's  J'lements  of  Scientific 
and    Practical  Agriculture, 

Robbin's  Complete  Produce 
Reckoner,  showing  the 
Value,  by  Pound  or  Bushel, 
of  all  the  Different  Kinds  of 
Grain, 

vVhitmarsh  on  the  Mulberry 
Tree, 

Dana's  Muck  Manual, 

Dana's  Prize  Essay  on  Manures, 

The  Farmer's  JV.'ine,  or  Source 
of  Wealth,     .... 

Smith's  Productive  Farming,  or 
FamiUar  Digest  of  Recent 
Discoveries,    . 

The  Farmer's  Treasure,      . 

Thompson  on  the  Food  of  Ani- 
mals,        

The  Complete  Farrier, 

Coles'  American  Veterinarian,  . 

The  American  Farrier, 

The  Horse,  its  Habits,  Diseases, 
and  Management, . 


.76 


.60 
.60 
.12ji 

.75 


.60 

.75 

.60 

M 
.76 


C.  M.  Saxtoii's  Catalogue  of  Books. 


Fouatt  on  the  Horse,    .        .        .  $1.75 
Miles'  Horse's  Foot,  and  How  to 

Keep  it  Sound,       .        .        .  .25 

Hinds'  Farrier  and  Stud  Book,    .  1.00 

Mason's  Farrier,  ....  1.25 

Stewart's  Stable  Economy,         .  1.00 
CJater's   Eyery   Man  His   Own 

Farrier, 50 

Stable  Talk  and  Table  Talk,     .  1.00 
Youatt'«  Stock  Raiser's  Manual,  2.50 
Clater  and  Youatt's  Cattle  Doc- 
tor  50 

Mills'  Sportman's  Library,  .        .  l.OO 

Skinner's  Dog  and  Sportsmae,    .  .75 

Hawker  and  Porter  on  Shooting,  2.75 

Frank  Forrister's   Field  Sports,  4.0O 

Youatt  on  the  Dog,      .        .        .  1.50 

Youatt  on  the  Pig,        ...  65 

Knowlson's  Cow  Doctor,     .        .  ,25 
Guenon's    Treatise    on    Milch 

Cows, 38 

Randall's  Sheep   Husbandry,     .  1.00 

Morrel's  American  Shepherd,     .  1.00 
Canfield    on    the    Management 

and  Breed  of  Sheep,    .         .1.00 

Blacklock's  Treatise  on  Sheep,  .  .60 
Bement's  American  Poulterer's 

Companion,    .         .         .         .1.00 

Cock's  American  Poultry  Book,  .38 

Bo«weirs  Poultry  Yard.       .        .  .50 

Miner's  Bee  Keeper's  Manual,   .  1.00 
Weeks'  Treatise  on  the  Honey 

Bee.         ...                 .  .50 

Bevan  onthe  Bee,         .         .         .  .38 

Townley  on  the  Bee,   .        .         .  .50 

Marshall's  Farmer's  and  Immi- 
grant's Hand  Book,       .        .  1.00 
Stephen's  Book  of  the  Farm,  2 

vols,  octavo,  .        .        .        .  4.00 

Ellsworth's     Improvements     in 
Arts,  Manufactures,  Stc,  in 

the  United  States,  ...  .25 

Bigelow's  Plants  of  Boston  and 

Vicinity.          ....  1,60 

Gardiner's  Farmer's  Dictionary,  1.60 
Bement's    Journal  of   ^Agricul- 
ture,       ...                 .  2.50 

Colman's  Continental   AgAcul- 

ture, 1.25 

Colman's     European     Agricul- 
tural Tour.      ....  6.00 
FesBenden's      New      American 

Gardener, 84 

Mahon's   American  Gardener's 

Calendar.        ....  3.50 
Bridgman's   Young   Gardener's 

Assistant,        ...  1.75 
Johnson's  Dictionary  of  Modern 

Gardening,     ....  2.25 

Cobbet's  American  Gardener,     .  .38 
Bridgman's  Kitchen  Gardener's 

Instructor. 60 

Buists  Family  Kitchen  Gar- 
dener, .  ...  .75 
Thaer's  Agriculture,  .  .  .  1.75 
Smee  on  the  Potato  Plant,  .  .  .72 
Gilpin's  Landscape  Gardening, .  2.50 
Downing's  landscape  Garden- 
ing,           3.50 

Downmg's     Cottage    Residen- 
ces,            2.00 

Laag's  Highland  Cottages,  .        .  1.60 


C  Dttage  and  Villa  Architecture, 

by  Walter  and  Smith,  4  vols.$l0.00 
Elliot's  Cottages  &  Cottage  Life,    2.50 
The  American  Architect,  com- 
prising Original  Designs  of 
Country    Residences,    4to., 
1st  series,        ....    3.5& 

2d  series,   ....    3.50 

Peters'    Agricultural    Account 

Book,  .  .  .  .  ,  l.OO 
American  Bird  Fancier,  .  .  .  .60 
Bees,    Pigeons,     Rabbits,     and 

Canary  Birds,        .        .         .      .38 
The  Bird  Keeper's  Manual,        .       .60 
The  Birds  of  Long  Island,  .        .1.00 
Gnnn's   Domestic  Medicine,  or 
Poor  Man's   Friend.      This 
Book  points  out  in  plain  lan- 
guage, free  from  Doctor's 
Terms,  the  Diseases  of  Men, 
Women,  and   Children,  and 
the  Latest  and  most  Approv- 
ed   Means    used      in    their 
Cure,  and   is   intended  ex- 
pressly  for  the    Benefit  of 
Families.     It   also  Contains 
a  Description  of  the   Medi- 
cinal  Roots   and   Herbs   in  . 
the  United  States.    By  John 
C.  Gunn,  M.  D.,   1  vol.  8vo.,    3.00 
The  Use  of  Brandy  and  Salt,  as 
a  Remedy  for  Various  Inter- 
nal as  well  as  External  Dis- 
eases, Iniiammation,  and  Lo- 
cal Injuries,  containing  Am- 
ple  Directions  for   Making 
and  Applying  it.  By  Rev.  S. 

Fenton, 12^ 

Miss  Beecher's  Domestic  Eco- 
nomy,       76 

Receipt  Book,    .        .        .      .75 

Miss  Leslie's  Complete  Cookery,    1.20 

House  Book.      .         .         .     1.20 

Ladies'  Receipt  Book,      .    1.20 

Indian-Meal  Book,    ,        .       ,25 

Seventy-Five  Receipts,  .      .30 

Mrs.  Rundle's  Domestic  Cook- 
ery,   50 

Mrs.  Child's  Frugal  Housewife,  .40 
The  Cook's  own  Book,  .  .1.00 
The  American    Housewife  and 

Kitchen  Directory,        .        .      .\S% 
The  American  System  of  Cook- 
ery,   76 

Domes'tic  Cookery 50 

The  Practical  Receipt  Book,  .  .62 
Miss    Acton's    New    Work    on 

Cookery,  .        .1.00 

Mrs.  Abeel's  Skillful  Housewife,     .25 
Mrs.  Cornelins'  Young  House- 
Keeper's  Friend,    ...      .60 
Alcotfs  Young  Housekeeptr,     .     1.00 
The  Economical  Housekeeper,  .      .7» 
Browne's  JVIemoir  on  Indian  Corn,     .26 
Pedder's    Farmer's  Land   Mea- 
surer, showing  at  one  View 
the   Contents  of  any   Piece 
of   Land  from    Dimensions 
taken  in  Yards,  with  a  Set  of 
Useful  Agricultural  Tables,       J60 
Webster's  Encyclopaedia  of  Do- 
mestic Economy,  .        .    a  60 


AMERICAN    ARCHITECT, 

Complete  in  24  Nos.,  at  25  cents  each,  or  $5  for  24 
Nos.    $6,  bound  in  2  vols. 

PUBLISHED   BY   C.  M.   SAXTON,  NEW-YORK. 


The  object  of  this  publication  is  to  introduce  ORIG INAL  DESIGNS  of  Country 
Seats  adapted  to  the  varied  taste  and  circumstances  of  an  American  population : 
from  the  elegant  Villa  to  the  simple  Cottage  and  plain  Farm-House  ;  from 
Planters'  Mansions  to  Village  Domicils.  In  a  word,  every  variety  of  Rural 
Residences  will  be  embraced,  in  order  to  meet  the  views  of  every  person  desiring 
a  Country  House.  In  respect  to  style,  cost,  arrangement,  finish,  &c.,  utility 
will  never  be  sacrificed  :  economy  in  the  outlay,  with  an  appropriate  style,  will 
always  be  kept  in  view.  The  requisite  details,  specifications,  plans,  and  direc 
tions,  with  a  careful  and  reliable  estimate  of  the  cost,  will  accompany  each  design 
These  are  essential  features  of  a  Practical  Work,  and  no  labor  will  be  spared  in 
their  preparation. 

Of  the  diversity  of  human  dwellings,  whether  marked  by  elegance,  convenience, 
or  utility,  or  by  the  want  of  them,  none  can  compare  in  national  importance  and 
philosophical  interest  with  the  Farrn- House— the  Homestead  of  our  species. 

A  triple  value  attaches  to  that  class  of  men  which  feeds  all  others.  W^ith  pri- 
meval farmers,  man's  social  faculties  were  first  unfolded.  With  them  society 
began :  and  among  whatever  people  its  shaft  has  become  polished  and  its  capital 
enriched,  it  still  rests  on  the  cultivators  of  the  soil.  So,  of  their  profession,  agri- 
culture is  the  great  parent  of  the  arts,  while  its  prepared  products  will  forever 
oe  the  most  essential  of  all  manufactures.  Then  it  was  in  their  dweUings  that 
Architecture  itself  had  its  birth  ;  it  was  they  who  first  abandoned  the  tent  with 
pastoral  life,  and  began  to  devise  and  construct  fixed  and  permanent  abodes. 

The  estimates  we  give  are  based  on  New  York  prices  ;  including  the  best  ma- 
lerials,  workmanship,  and  finish.  There  is  no  doubt  that  in  many  parts  of  the 
country,  they  may  be  materially  diminished  in  every  one  of  these  respects— evee 
to  the  extent  of  one-half. 

The  selection  of  designs  by  those  about  to  build  Country  Residences  is  coia 
nonly  attended  with  embarrassment  and  always  with  expense  When  furnished 
•y  professional  men,  from  general  ideas  communicated  by  proprietors,  they  are 
eeldom  satisfactory.  The  American  Architect,  by  furnishing  a  collection  of  designs 
Adapted  to  all  tastes  and  means,  will  remove  every  diflRculty  in  the  choice,  and 
i;ave  money  expended  on  Plans  of  no  use.  It  will  furnish  twelve  Elevations, 
Plans,  and  Specifications  in  each  year,  at  a  price  not  exceeding  one-seventh  of 
the  usual  charge  for  one. 

Every  handsome  residence  adds  value  to  the  grounds  attached  to  it ;  hence  the 
importance  of  having  such,  by  those  who  invest  capital  in  this  species  of  property. 

With  regard  to  utility — the  proper  distribution  of  the  apartments  and  their 
adaptation  to  the  purposes  intended  is  the  most  important  point  to  be  attended 
to.  and  they  are  governed  by  the  Plans. 

From  among  the  great  number  of  notices,  we  select  the  following  :— 

"  The  price  is  only  25  cents  for  each  number,  and  it  is  surely  next  to  impossible 
but  that  such  a  periodical  will  obtain  a  wide  circulation."— iVew  York  Tribune. 

"  This  work  promises  to  supply  a  want  which  has  long  existed,  and  to  be  ol 
essential  value."— SaZcTw  Register. 

"  This  work  cannot  fail  to  be  useful  and  popular."— £o5<on  Bee. 

"  This  is  a  good  and  beautiful  work,  and  well  adapted  to  effect  a  much  desired 
reform  in  American  Architecture."— .Boston  Traveller. 

Thi^  Cost  of  building  from  the  Plans  given,  will  be  from  $600  to  $5,000,  with 
comp  ste  Specifications  from  a  first-rate  Mason  and  Carpenter,  and  the  pnce* 
given  'an  be  depended  upon. 


THE  AMERICAN  BEE-KEEPER'S  MANUAL. 

BY    T.    B.    MINER. 

350  pp.  l2mo.    35  Eagravings.     Price  $1. 

PUBLISHED  BY  C.  M.  SAXTON,  121  FULTON  ST.,  N.  1. 

OPINIONS  OF  THE  PRESS. 

"  The  most  complete  work  on  the  Bee  and  Bee-keeping  we  have  yet  seen."— 
AT.  y.  Tribune. 

"  Mr.  Miner  has  handled  this  subject  in  a  masterly  manner."— JV.  Y.  True  Sun. 

"  He  has  written  a  work  of  the  most  fascinating  interest." — N.  Y.  Sunday  Dis- 
patch. 

"  It  will  interest  the  general  reader.  It  is  indeed  a  charming  volume.— Cow 
mercial  Advertiser. 

"  This  is  a  truly  valuable  work,  and  very  interesting." — Morning  Star. 

"  It  is  decidedly  the  best  work  we  have  ever  seen.^^— Boston  Daily  Mail. 

"Mr.  Miner  has  performed  his  task  with  signal  ability." — Scientific  American. 

'•  It  does  high  credit  to  the  observation  and  intelligence  of  the  author." — CAn'«- 
tian  Intelligencer. 

''  This  is  the  most  comprehensive  and  valuable  work  on  the  Honey-bee  that 
has  ever  come  under  our  notice." — Journal  of  Commerce. 

"  To  appreciate  the  value  of  the  honey-bee  one  must  get  this  book  and  read  it 
attentively .- ' — Noah's  Messenger. 

"  We  like  it  for  its  independent  tone,  and  the  amount  of  practical  information 
that  it  contains." — Literary  World. 

"■  "We  have  been  greatly  edified  and  entertained  by  this  book,  from  which  tha 
reader  will  collect  a  great  deal  of  excellent  iniovrndiiion.— The  Independent. 

"  This  16  probably  the  most  complete  manual  of  the  kind  ever  published.  It  will 
richly  repay  the  general  reader,  too,  by  the  variety  of  interesting  facts  it  con- 
tains."— Boston  Traveller. 

"  It  is  a  most  excellent  and  useful  treatise,  and  happily  supplies  a  vacuum 
thart  had  long  existed." — Boston  Times. 

"  This  volume  has  all  the  charm  of  a  romance  and  admirably  displays  the 
habits  of  this  insect." — O'^gan. 

"  This  volume  is  what  it  pretends  to  be,  (more  than  can  be  said  of  many  wo  rks) 
and  all  who  want  a  full  and  thorough  history  of  the  nature  and  management  oi 
of  the  bee  should  have  it  in  their  possession." — Scientific  American. 

"  It  is  neatly  printed,  well  illustrated  and  clearly  written  and  contains  a  great 
deal  of  practical  information." —  MiiTor. 

"  This  work  probably  contains  better  instructions  in  regard  to  bees  than  any 
which  have  ever  appeared." — Sun. 

"  The  practical  directions  are  the  result  of  evident  experience,  and  being 
^laioly  and  coocisely  stated,  are  excellent,  It  is  so  much  better  than  can  be 
obtained  els<)wb*»re  that  we  commend  it  to  favor." — N.  Y.  Evangelist. 

*•  It  is  an  «yr.'llent  book  and  the  best  published  on  the  subject."— .Bo«on 
Brtmeh. 


THE    AMERICAN    AGRICULTURIST; 

A    MONTHL'2     PERIODICAL 

Besfgncti  to  (mpvo^t  tlje  ifariiier,  tt)c  ^Planter,  ti)e  Stocfc*3$i:eeTKe«, 
antj  t1)c  Jl^orticulturisi. 

A.    B.    ALLEN,    Editor. 

**  Agriculture  is  the  most  healthy,  the  most  useful,  and  the  most  noble  employment 
of  man," — Washington. 

TERMS. 

FOR  SINGLE  COPIES    ONE  DOLLAR  PER  ANNUM. 

THREE    COPIES    TWO  DOLLARS. 

EIGHT     COPIES    FIVE  DOLLARS. 

TWENTY  COPIES TWELVE  DOLLARS. 

The  American  Agriculturist  is  now  in  the  seventh  year  of  its  publication. 
From  its  commencement  it  took  a  high  stand  ;  and  has  ever  since  been  considered 
by  the  press  and  all  unbiased  judges,  as  the  LEADING  PERIODICAL  of  its  class 
in  America.  It  has  a  large  and  rapidly  increasing  circulation  throughout  the 
United  States,  the  Canadas,  and  other  British  possessions,  the  West  Indies,  and 
South  America  ;  and  we  may  fearlessly  assert,  that  it  has  given  more  reliable  in 
formation  on  rural  subjects,  and  been  perused  with  greater  general  satisfaction, 
than  any  paper  of  the  kind  yet  published. 

The  American  Agriculturist  treats  of  every  description  of  domestic  animals 
and  poultry  ;  their  characteristics,  breeds,  the  best  and  the  worst ;  their  advanta- 
ges and  disadvantages  ;  their  mode  of  breeding,  feeding,  rearing,  and  treatment ; 
their  uses,  profits,  management,  &c.  It  also  treats  of  all  cultivated  crops,  inclu- 
ding fruits,  shrubbery,  &c. ;  the  best  seeds,  mode  of  planting,  cultivating,  gather- 
ing, and  preparing  for  markets  ;  the  general  principles  of  vegetation  and  the  laws 
of  vegetable  life.  It  describes  the  principles  of  mechanics  as  applied  to  machine- 
ry used  by  farmers  and  planters ;  the  best  machinery  and  implements  for  agri- 
culture, their  uses  and  the  particular  superiority  of  some  over  others,  and  their 
adaptedness  for  particular  purposes,  &c. 

Address  all  subscriptions  to  C.  M.  SAXTON,  121  Fulton  St.,  New  York. 

It  also  gives  the  latest  improvements  in  those  implements  which  may  have  been 
made,  and  suggests  others  ;  tells  where  they  are  to  be  found,  and  the  benefits  that 
will  follow  from  their  use.  It  also  specifies  new  objects  of  cultivation,  and  how 
they  may  be  better  prepared  for  a  profitable  market  and  more  general  use.  These 
are  a  part  only  of  the  objects  of  this  paper ;  yet  they,  with  the  other  subjects 
treated,  are  o{  universal  interest  and  general  application.  Nineteen-twentieths  of  all 
that  is  to  be  found  in  it  is  of  the  same  use  to  one  part  as  to  any  other  part  of 
America.  Yet  we  find  people  constantly  objecting  that  it  is  not  printed  in  their 
particular  section  of  country,  and  that  it  is  not  suited  to  their  wants.  Does  it 
make  any  difference  where  a  boy  acquires  his  education,  provided  it  be  a  good 
one  and  he  be  correctly  taught  ?  Where  he  studies  his  profession  of  divinity, 
medicine,  or  even  law?  Cannot  he  take  the  principles  he  has  acquired,  and  apply 
them  equally  well  in  any  part  of  America?  Are  not  the  blessed  sunlight  ol 
heaven,  the  rain,  the  dew,  the  heat,  and  the  frost,  though  sometimes  differing  in 
degree,  of  equal  relative  effect  wherever  they  are  felt,  whether  within  the  tropics 
or  the  polar  circles,  the  eastern  or  western  hemisphere  ? 

If  the  question  were  as  to  a  choice  between  a  good  paper  printed  here  or  there, 
It  were  another  matter.  But  thro>jeh«^ut  extensive  regions  this  is  not  the  case, 
and  it  is  either  a  good  paper  or  none  f  all ;  and  even  if  there  were  one  for  every 
particular  section  of  country,  we  rp'°at  stiil  urge  a  general  circulation  for  our 
own ;  for  no  one  will  embrace  ali  that  is  important  to  be  known. 


THE 

AMERICAN    POULTRY    YARD; 

COMPRISING    THE 

ORIGIN,  HISTORY,  AND  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  DIFFERENT 
BREEDS  OF 

WomtBtic  Poultry; 

WITH 

Complete  Directions  for  their  Breediiig,  Crossing,  Rearing^ 

Fattening,  and  Preparation  for  Market ; 

Inclvding  Specific   Directions  for  Caponising  Fowls,  and  for  the 

Treatment  of  the  Principal  Diseases  to  which  they  are  subject. 

DRAWN  FROM  AUTHENTIC  SOURCES  AND  PERSONAL  OBSERVATION. 
Illustrated   by   Numerous   Engravings 

By    D.    J.    BROWNE. 

With  an  Appendix,  embracing  the  Comparative  Merits  of 
Different  Breed  of  Fowls. 

Br    SAMUEL    ALLEN. 

Price  $1,  in  cloth — 75  cts.  with  paper  covers. 


Published  by  C.  M.  SAXTON,  121  Fultoii  Street,  N.  Y. 

OPINIONS  OF  THE  PRESS. 

Mr.  Browne  was  bred  and  brought  up  a  practical  farmer.  Fi'om  bis  intimate  know- 
ledge of  the  histoiy  and  habits  of  om-  domestic  animals,  having  devoted,  probably, 
more  attention  to  the  subject,  as  a  whole,  by  reading  and  observation,  than  any  other 
individual  in  the  country,  the  task  of  prepaiing  this  work  was  assigned  to  him. — 
Salem  Register. 

The  style  of  the  engi-avings  and  the  mechanical  execution  of  the  work  ai-e  excellent. 
— Maine  Farmer. 

An  extensive  work  on  poultrj^,  embracing  eveiy  information  desii-ed.— JV.  H.  Tele- 
graph. 

We  commend  the  book  and  the  subject  to  the  thoughts  of  fanners.— Ff.  Watchman. 

Every  one  who  may  pui-chase  a  copy,  upon  a  perusal  of  the  same,  will  be  fully  satis- 
fied that  their  money  was  well  s^eni.— Bristol  Phcenix. 

It  is  one  of  the  best  treatises  on  the  Domestic  Fowl  ever  published. — J^eic-Haven 
Palladium. 

The  details  into  which  this  book  enters,  on  all  the  subjects  connected  with  the  pro- 
fitable raising  of  fowls,  are  precisely  of  that  minute  and  practical  character  which  is 
needed.— JSa  Y.  Evangelist. 

We  ai-e  glad  to  see  that  the  evident  demand  for  information  on  the  subject  of 
reai-ing  Domestic  Fowls  has  called  out  so  valuable  a  work  as  the  one  before  us. — JV.  Y. 
Daily  Tribune. 

It  contains  matter  to  interest  and  instruct  upon  almost  everything  that  concerns  the 
poultry  yai-d,  and  bears  the  impress  in  its  pages  that  its  editor  was  well  qualified  to 
fulfill  the  task  he  undertook.— .iz/tcrzcaji  Farmer. 

It  is  the  most  complete  book  of  its  class  ever  published,  and  quite  indispensable  to 
all  who  are  interested  in  raising  poultry.— C/taWeston,  S.  C,  Weekly  Gazette. 

No  fanner  among  us  would  remain  a  day  longer  without  the  work,  did  he  but  know 
its  value. — Rahicay  Register. 

It  is  unquestionably  the  cheapest  and  best  work  of  the  kind  extant,  and  should  have 
ft  place  iji  every  farmer's  VthvuTH.—OermanLown,  Oldo,  Gazette. 

The  volume  is  enriched  by  an  Appendix  from  the  the  pen  of  Mr.  Samuel  Allen,  an 
experienced  breeder  of  fowls,  who  has  taken  much  pains  to  improve  the  stock  in  this 
country.— JV.  }'.  Weekly  Tribune. 


QUNN'S  DOMESTIC  MEDICINE, 

OB  POOR  MAN'S  FRIEND ;   IN  THE  HOURS  OF  AFFLICTION,  PAIN 

AND  SICKNESS,  A  SAFE  AND  RELIABLE  GUIDE. 

Raymond's  copy,  price  three  dollars. 

This  Book  points  out  in  plain  language,  free  from  doctors'  terms  the  Diseases 
of  Men,  Women,  and  Children,  and  the  latest  and  most  improved  means  used  in 
their  cure ;  and  is  intended  expressly  for  the  benefit  of  families.  It  also  contains 
descriptions  of  the  Medical  Roots  and  Herbs  of  the  United  States,  and  how 
they  are  to  be  used  in  the  cure  of  diseases.  It  is  arranged  on  a  new  and  simple 
plan,  by  which  the  practice  of  Medicine  is  reduced  to  principles  of  common 
sense. 

This  invaluable  book  has  passed  through  many  editions ;  it  has  now  been  re- 
vised and  improved  in  every  respect,  and  enlarged  to  nearly  double  its  former 
size  ;  and  contains  nine  hundred  octavo  pages. 

It  does  not  propose  to  dispense  with  physicians  in  severe  cases.  But  it  does 
propose  to  save  thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  annually,  by  putting  the  means 
of  cure  into  every  man's  hands,  and  of  saving  many  valuable  lives  (which  is  of 
far  more  importance)  by  instructing  individuals  how  to  check  disease  in  its  begin- 
nings, before  it  has  acquired  too  much  strength  to  resist  and  overcome. 

Opinions  of  the  Press. 

•'We  seldom  take  up  a  book  of  this  class  with  any  favorable  impressions;  1<  r 
we  fear  quackery  and  pretension  have  been  at  work  for  the  '  poor  man ;'  but  in 
ihis  work  all  our  prejudices  were  conquered.  I'rofessionai  men  as  well  as  others, 
we  see  cheerfully  recommend  this  hook ;  which  has,  in  us  ample  pages,  much  ol 
the  necessary  instruction  to  ward  off  or  to  cure  disease." — New  York  Express. 

"  It  is  written  in  an  easy,  plain,  and  familiar  style,  and  points  out  the  diseases 
of  men,  women,  and  children,  and  the  latest  and  most  approved  means  used  in 
their  cure.  The  language  and  arrangement  are  so  simplified  as  to  bring  it  within 
the  capacity  of  those  who  possess  a  very  limited  education.  The  object  and  de- 
sign of  the  author  seems  to  be  to  remove  all  that  technical  phraseology  which  is 
used  in  medical  works  generally,  and  thus  simplify  the  practice  of  that  science 
which  the  head  of  every  family  should  be  acquainted  with.  It  is  generally  recom- 
mended to  our  professional  readers  as  a  guide  in  cases  where  it  is  not  deemed 
necessary  te  have  the  services  of  regularly  educated  practitioners.  This  book 
should  find  a  place  in  every  family." — Boston  Mail. 

"  This  is  a  work  of  Family  Medicine  on  the  plan  of  Dr.  Ewell.  It  is  the  most 
olain- written,  untechnical  book  of  the  kind  we  have  met  with  ;  a  decided  improve 
ment  on  both  Buchan  and  Ewell.  It  is  printed  in  a  very  superior  style,  revised 
from  the  first  edition,  and  containing  a  variety  of  useful  information  not  hitlierta 
laid  before  the  vulgar  eye.  It  treats  of  the  passions.  It  has  also  a  catalogue  ol 
medicines,  with  their  properties  and  doses,  and  the  diseases  and  manner  in  whicli 
they  are  treated  ;  comprising  a  synoptical  Materia  Medica,  exceedingly  useful  in 
families,  and  m  no  particularly  to  captains  of  vessels  and  planters,  who  cannot 
conveniently  procure  medical  advice.  It  is  an  excellent  book."— iV^eio  Orleans 
True  American. 

"  If  we  judge  of  the  merits  of  the  book  by  the  immense  number  of  copies  already 
sold,  and  the  very  flattering  testimony  of  medical  men  of  the  first  standing,  (and 
among  the  number,  several  of  the  most  distinguished  members  of  the  faculty  in 
our  city,)  it  is  a  va^uable  compendium  of  the  modern  practice  of  physic,  and  must 
prove  a  valuable  assistant  to  families,  particularly  in  sudden  emergencies,  and  in 
nil  situations  where  regular  professional  attendance  czuinot  be  commanded."— 
Louisville  Journal. 

'*  The  great  advantage  it  possesses  over  all  other  books  of  the  kind  is,  that  the 
author  has  avoided  all  Latin  terms;  this  is  what  has  brought  Dr.  Gunn's  work 
mto  such  extensive  family  use." — New  Orleans  Picayune. 

'«  As  a  medical  Vade  Mecum,  it  has  for  years  stood  high  ;  and  now,  since  its  re- 
vision, (Raymond's  copy,)  will  take  the  lead  of  all  similar  works."— Mobile  Daily 
Advertiser. 

"  Its  extensive  sale  has  established  .ts  worth,  and  stamped  it  as  a  standard  and 
useful  book." — Kentucky  Gazette. 

Oy  On  the  receipt  of  Three  Dollars,  Dr.  Gunn's  book  will  be  sent,  free  oj 
postage,  to  any  part  of  the  United  States.  „  „ 

All  letters  must  be  addressed,  (post-paid,)  to  C.  M.  SAXT0N,121  Fulton  St 
N«w  York.  ,.  .  ^  .  ,    ,       .u    u    , 

"  Raymmcfi  Copy  "  is  the  only  complete  edition,  and  is  so  marked  on  the  back 


THE    AMERICAN    FARM    BOOK: 


Compend  of  American  Agriculture, 

Containing  a  concise  and  plainly  written  Exposition  of  Duties  pertainiog  to  the 

Cultivation  of  the  Earth,  the  Management  of  the  Farm,  &c.,  &c.,  on  prac* 

tical  scientific  principles. 

BY  R.  L.  ALLEN. 

The  cheapest  and  most  valuable  book  for  a  farmer  ever  printed  :  being  a  com 
plete  Guide,  both  practical  and  scientific,  for  the 

MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  FARM. 

Besides  the  varied  practical  knowledge  which  this  book  imparts,  and  which  is 
indispensable  to  the  proper  management  of  every  department  of  agriculture,  it 
gives  the  elements  of  other  information  highly  necessary  to  a  successful  farmer^ 
as  History,  Geology.  Chemistry,  Botany,  Anatomy,  Physiology,  and  Mechanics 
These  branches  of  knowledge  are  given  as  applicable  to  agricultural  pursuits, 
and  when  properly  understood  will  essentially  aid  and  assist  the  farmer.  In  fact, 
a  knowledge  of  these  sciences  is  a  sure  key  to  wealth  for  any  agriculturist.  It 
gives  the  mode  of  preparation,  and  the  effects  of  all  kinds  of  mamires  ;  the 
origin,  texture,  divisions,  and  description  of  every  variety  of  soils  ;  the  economy 
of  sowing,  reaping,  and  mowing,  irrigation  and  draining  ;  cultivation  of  the 
grasses,  clovers,  grains,  and  roots  ;  Southern  and  miscellaneous  products,  as  cot- 
ton, hemp,  flax,  the  sugar  cane,  rice,  tobacco,  hops,  madder,  woad,  &.c.  ;  the 
rearing  of  fruit— apples,  peaches,  pears,  plums,  grapes,  &.c.  ;  farm  buildings 
hedges,  &c.  ;  with  the  best  methods  of  planting,  cultivating,  and  preparation 
for  market.     Illustrated  by  100  engravings. 

The  reader  can  form  some  idea  of  the  above  work,  from  the  fact  that  it  treats 
of  800  different   subjects  important  to    a  farmer.     It  contains   354  pages,  and  is 
beautifully  bound  in  cloth,  gilt,  suitable  for  a  library.     Price  only  One  Dollar. 
Notices  of  the  Press. 

The  author  has  been  one  of  the  most  able  contributors  to  the  agricultural  pre?,' 
for  the  last  ten  years  ;  aside  from  this  he  is  a  practical  farmer  and  stock-breeder, 
and  consequently  knows  from  his  own  experience  what  he  is  writing  about. 
Commercial  Advertiser. 

This  book  is  by  a  gentleman  of  known  experience ;  the  work  is  exceedingly 
cheap,  and  the  farmer  will  find  it  a  valuable  book  of  reference.— lY.  Y.  Express. 

It  is  in  fact  a  brief  encyclopedia  on  the  subjects  treated,  and  the  farmer  will 
Jiu4  appropriate  information  on  almost  any  subject  coming  withm  his  reach.— 
i\'ew  York  Observer. 

Here  is  a  book  for  the  million,  precisely  what  its  title  indicates.  Compasse'l 
vvilhm  its  pages,  the  reader  will  find  the  subject  of  soils,  manures,  crops,  and 
animals,  treated  in  a  style  easily  comprehended. — Spirit  of  the  Times. 

This  work  is  what  might  be  expected  from  one  so  well  qualified  for  the  undei- 
taking. — Boston  Cultivator, 

We  are  glad  to  meet  a  publication  which  can  interest,  as  well  as  improve  the 
condition  of  the  human  race.  We  commend  the  work  to  every  American  farmer. 
— Christian  Intelligencer. 

AVhy  shall  not  every  good  farmer  economize  his  muscles  by  storing  his  mind  ? 
We  hope  tins  book  will  find  its  way  into  many  family  and  school-libraries.— iVew 
York  Tribune. 

It  ought  to  be  found  in  every  farmer's  library. — Jerseyvian. 

It  is  really  a  great  satisfaction  to  get  hold  of  an  American  treatise  on  Agricul- 
tU'-c,  that  has  a  plain,  practical,  common  sense  character  of  its  own.  The  author 
of  this  work  is  already  known  to  the  agricultural  public  as  a  thorough  practical 
farmer  and  stock-breeder.  That  he  well  knows  what  he  is  about  on  a  farm,  these 
pages  abundanty  show.  Is'o  mere  book-maker  could  have  wnllen  such  a  book  . 
and  we  may  add,  also,  that  no  mere  practical  fanner  could  have  written  it.  A 
"good  practical  work"  can  only  be  written  L»y  a  man  who  has  both  thought  and 
acted  well.  What  distingnishes  this  volume,  is  its  conciseness,  its  clearness,  and 
its  {lerspicuous  treatment  of  the  subject  in  hand.  We  think,  therefore,  that  Mr 
Allen's  volume,  the  basis  of  which  is  good  practical  farming,  as  practised  by  th 
best  cultivators  in  the  United  States,  with  an  intelligent  reference  to  those  princi- 
ples of  science  which  lie  at  the  root  of  all  successful  practice,  is  likely  to  be  of  as 
much  or  more  real  service  to  us,  than  any  work  on  agriculture  vet  issued  frttm 
the  press,  and  we  gladly  comineiid  it  to  the  perusal  of  every  on*,  oi  our  re»d«r« 
eogaged  in  the  cultiva  ion  of  land  —.4.  J   Downing's  llorlicuUwiist 


